Full text of "A voyage of discovery : made under the orders of the Admiralty, in His Majesty's ships Isabella and Alexander, for the purpose of exploring Baffin's Bay, and inquiring into the probability of a North-West Passage."

See other formats

// ('< hiSHK. if. i'll. IMT
Shewing t/t

\xh c(\ mft U t srotif vie*

1 1. M. sums- Is.injilj.i x :iu;x:i\i>t:/{

i/i uti aSetttpt A Duccver <i Pa/iaqt

/'///<■ ///i

Cnliiui/ii/n/ /n

Cut.' RossJtN.
Shown under Ait vupaettm

/;,■

.1. BuAhnan Mi.irKW
JHJtt.

lie in :i r U

tauf* '/!'■ S/VmMM „r r/i.- /,„„! „.-,;>r.l,,y In tfu t.it.-.tt /.iiMimtfU*
rn.ut ,if/iittOv t.-rri
fiK.ntmn "/' f/tr l,v

.Mi/* tmrl fh*m neon to noon '/'-■ vnrion* nw/vw w/,./ a>(.

limner-oil-* to ifi.'rrt n/tit ,>.ti.r,;/o,/tt/v f/tr Shift « ,/.. frf</iifn//v

ti nearw t/if imnoi than npreerntui fy t/ir //-

'&xm&92*m^<^%&$s&<&%^^

ISABELLA AND ALEXANDER,

EXPLORING BAFFIN'S BAY

AND INQUIRING INTO THE PROBABILITY OF A

NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

By JOHN ROSS', K. S. Captain Royal Navy

LONDON :

JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE-STREET.

HF*BJL^K P^^JLLBMJ^.LJLLILJIM.

PRINTED BY W. CLOWES, NORTHtJMBERLAND-CODRT, STRAND, LONDON.

!^3^^HE^^^^^^i

sHaayBssfaaafl

g^^v^*r^ft^^r^KUgg^^

THE following Narrative of the Voyage of Discovery made
under my command, and pursuant to the orders of the Ad-
miralty, can require little in the nature of an introduction.
The causes in which it originated are as well known to the
Public as they are to myself; and the discussions of different
kinds to which it has given rise, are, probably, much more
familiar to every one who may do me the honour to read this
journal, than they are to the writer of it.

Few voyages of this nature have excited more general
interest at their outset than the present. It would not be easy
for me to add any thing to the innumerable articles on this
subject that have appeared in the several public journals,
which are in the hands of all classes of readers. My habits
in literary composition are such, that I could not hope to put
all these circumstances in a clearer point of view; and, as far

iw.pi - *. mjm^BBmmwrKsesssm.

INTRODUCTION.

as they partake of a controversial nature, it is not my business
to enter into the discussion.

My nautical education has taught me to act and not to
question ; to obey orders as far as possible, not to discuss
probabilities, or examine philosophical or un philosophical
speculations.

If it were possible to condense, within such a space as these
pages would admit, the various information formerly collected
respecting the Polar Seas, and the objects of this voyage, I
know not that my time, or my limited experience in writing,
would permit it. That attempt is, at any rate, rendered un-
necessary, by the works on tins subject which have long been in
the hands of every one, and are, doubtless, well known to all my
readers. I allude to the writings of Daines Barrington, Colonel
Beaufoy, and the more recent sketch of the Northern Voyages,
published by my friend, Mr. Barrow.

I have here attempted nothing beyond the journal of a
seaman. If I had done more, I might have done worse ; as I
could not have hoped to add much elegance to the composition,
nor much entertainment to the matter of a narrative, which
was not productive of much adventure. From the nature of
the service, we were almost always at sea, and were thus cut off
from the sources of variety that are only to be found by
frequent communication with unknown or interesting shores.

^n^y

«am«ft£9i. ?*Jf*%m&&%+L

INTRODUCTION.

If I have thus missed to give entertainment, I, however, trust,
that I have diminished nothing from the utility of the state-
ments to seamen, nor their authority to geographers. I also
trust, as I believe myself, that the objects of the voyage have
been, in every important point, accomplished ; that I have proved
the existence of a bay, from Disco to Cumberland Strait, and
and set at rest for ever the question of a north-west passage in
this direction.

In re-discovering Baffin's Bay, I have derived great addi-
tional pleasure from the reflection that I have placed in a fair
light before the Public, the merits of a worthy and able
Navigator ; whose fate, like that of many others, it has not
only been, to have lost, by a combination of untoward circum-
stances, the opportunity of acquiring during his life-time
the fame he deserved ; but, could he have lived to this period,
to have seen his discoveries expunged from the records of
geography, and the bay, with which his name is so fairly
associated, treated as a phantom of the imagination.

The circumstances which immediately preceded this voyage,
may be stated in a few words, and I have subjoined to them all
those matters relating to the preparations and equipment,
which are either useful or interesting ; together with a copy
(examined by the Secretary of the Admiralty) of the orders
under which I was to act.

1 2

■J ' LUL

INTRODUCTION.

On the 11th of December, 1817, I received a letter, dated
the 4th, from Sir George Hope, one of the Lords of the
Admiralty, acquainting me, that two ships were to be sent
out, to ascertain the existence or non-existence of a north-
west passage ; and desiring me to let him know, by return of
post, whether my health was equal to the arduous service which
must be expected on a voyage of this nature, and whether I
should wish to undertake it ; at the same time informing me,
that I should be accompanied by a man of science, besides
Greenland pilots, accustomed to navigate those seas. To this
I returned for answer, that my health was perfectly re-esta-
blished, and that I had no hesitation in undertaking the
service, particularly with the promised assistance.

On the 16th I received orders from Sir George, to make the
best of my way from Loch Ryan to Greenock, in the Driver
(which ship I commanded), and, when superseded, to proceed
to London ; and that, in the mean time, they would be getting
on with the ships which had been already selected.

I arrived in London on the 30th of December, and, having
received directions, I visited the ships, and chose the Isabella
for my own, as being the most proper ship for the senior
officer; I was afterwards employed in planning the accom-
modations, and directing the various alterations which were
necessary for the safety of the ships and comfort of the crews,

as well as in obtaining information from the different masters
of the Greenland ships, and other persons who had been
accustomed to navigate the icy seas.

On the loth of January, 1818, the four ships were com-
missioned, viz., the Isabella, 385 tons, and Alexander, 252|
tons, for the north-west ; and the Dorothea, 382 tons, and the
Trent, 249* tons, for the polar expeditions ; and the following
officers subsequently received their appointments :

ISABELLA

No. 1. John Ross, Captain, Senior Officer, and Commander of
the Expedition.

2. William Robertson, (6) Lieutenant.

3. William Thom, Purser.

4. John Edwards, Surgeon.

5. C. J. Beverley, Assistant Surgeon.

6. A. M. Skene, Admiralty Midshipman.

7. J. C. Ross, ditto, ditto.

8. John Bushnan, Midshipman and Clerk.

9. Benjamin Lewis, Master and Greenland Pilot.
10. Thomas Wilcox, Mate, and ditto.

INTRODUCTION.

ALEXANDER.

No. 1. W. E. Parry, Lieutenant and Commander.

2. H. H. Hoppner, Lieutenant.

3. Ph. Bisson, Admiralty Midshipman.

4. John Nius, ditto, ditto.

5. Alex. Fisher, Assistant Surgeon.

6. W. H. Hooper, Purser.
7- John Allison, Master and Greenland Pilot.

8. Joseph Philips, Mate, and ditto.

9. James Halse, Clerk.

During the time the ships were in dock, they were frequently
visited by the Comptroller and Commissioners of the Navy ;
every suggestion which was offered for the improvement of the
plans were attended to, and no pains were spared by the
officers of the yards, and men employed in their different
departments. Mr. Lang, Assistant Surveyor, under whose
particular direction the Isabella, Dorothea, and Trent, were
repaired and fortified in the merchants' yards, and who made
some important improvements, has furnished me with the
following plan of the Isabella's construction, with the altera-
tions and additions, to strengthen the ship against the pressure
of the ice.

A Description of the Manner in which His Mujesty's Ship Isabella
was fitted, for a Voyage of Discovery to the Arctic Seas.

One strake of plank was taken out from the bottom, all fore
and aft, at the heads and heels of the timbers composing her
frame, to ascertain the condition of the ship ; in lieu of which
a strake of oak, seven inches thick, was introduced, with a
rabbet on each edge, to make good the substance, and
receive the doubling of the bottom, which was of oak, three
inches thick ; the original bottom was then well examined,
caulked, and payed with the common mixture of pitch and
tar ; after which a coat of felt (a composition of animal hair
and tar, in its properties both elastic and adhesive) was laid
all over the whole surface, on which the doubling oak
plank was brought, and secured through the original plank
timbers, and inside lining of the ship, with bolts well clenched;
this doubling extended up the counter abaft, as well as to
the after part of the stern post, in which a fresh rabbet was
formed, abaft the original one, within about four inches of
the back, to receive the ends, or butts, of the said doubling.

JUHJLLm'JJJ

INTRODUCTION.

The bows were still more strongly and substantially fortified
prior to the doubling being brought on ; pieces of timber were
worked vertically next the stern, in the angle formed by that
and the bow, to sharpen the form of the vessel ; underneath
these pieces a coat of felt was first laid, the pieces well
caulked, and another coat of felt then laid thereon, to
receive the doubling, which was worked from twelve to
thirteen inches thick, at the fore ends, to fashion out and
make a fair line with the front or fore part of the stem, the
after ends were diminished to the thickness of the doubling of
the bottom. On the fore ends of these thick strakes, after they
had been caulked, iron plates, of about three quarters of an
inch thick, were secured round their ends over the stem, to
protect them from being injured by the ice ; these plates were
continued in close connexion all the way down the bow as
low as the fore foot, or gripe, and the whole doubling well
caulked and payed, similar to the mode practised with the
original bottom.

The keel of the vessel was secured in the following manner :
the original garboard strakes were taken off the bottom, and a
thick strake of elm placed on each side of the keel in lie,
with a coat of felt underneath, and bolted athwartships through
the said keel, and likewise up and down through the floor
timbers, and the bolts well clenched Avithin board ; in the outer

m&&X&£+n&Wt3S* " -*X& *»S-«tf!M?

INTRODUCTION.

edges of the said strakes rabbets were formed to receive the
doubling of the bottom, from which place the doubling extended
up to within about three feet of the gunwale, terminating there
in a thick strake of oak, rabbetted in like manner, and let
home to the timbers of the topside, bolted through, and well
clenched ; the whole of the chains were secured, and guarded
by thick pieces of timber, payed and bolted under the channel,
covering the links, and thus protecting them from injury, or
being carried away by the ice.

INTERNALLY.

Large shelf pieces were introduced all fore and aft under the
beam-ends at the side, and dowelled or coaked up to the under
side of the beams, and bolted in and out through the ship's
side, as well as in an up-and-down direction through the said
beams, and well clenched ; pieces of a similar kind were intro-
duced at various other parts of the ship on the ceiling, and
dowelled thereto opposite the other thick strakes on the outside
of the bottom, as before mentioned, which made good the
thickness of the doubling on the bottom ; and these strakes
were well bolted through the ship's side to each other, and
clenched within-board, thereby connecting the fabric, and

i'W*

■■PPPPPWW^

Uv^LP-'l,

fc]

X INTRODUCTION.

supporting the ship against the strain likely to occur by
her being struck at the extremities by the ice ; these pieces
were continued from the bow to the stern, and united by
breast hooks and crutches to strengthen those parts of the
ship also ; a tier of large beams were introduced about five
feet below the lower deck to support the ship's sides against
pressure, provided the ship should be squeezed, in the event
of her being caught between two fields or floes of ice. The
ceiling was taken off the bow, as far as aft the fore-step
below, and several feet further aft at the lower-deck beam, in a
diagonal direction ; the openings between the timbers in wake
thereof were then filled in solid, caulked and payed, on which
surface were laid sixteen large breast-hooks (in lieu of the
plank taken off), their sides well fayed close to each other, from
the deck down to the fore-step, all across the bows, well
bolted through the outside stuff, and clenched within-board ;
the ends of these hooks were likewise confined by the fore-
part of the lower deck shelf-piece, which finished with a large
hook over the others, and the same confining the fore ends of
all the fore and aft thick strakes that were dowelled to the
ceiling, as before mentioned; against this large breast-hook,
shores were placed, and, bolted under the beams, with carlings
between the said beams; their under sides dowelled to the upper
sides of the shores and bolted through, and clenched securely

«WWB®fc5iWWNW*- " ?iW JMSWR J«

INTRODUCTION.

to each other. The shores were placed in a direction as square
as possible from the curve of the bow, as may be perceived
by the sketch of the half-breadth plan of the lower-deck; shores
were placed under the fore platform beams in like manner,
and the whole most substantially secured. Hooks and ekings
were placed in the bows above the lower deck hook, as shewn
in the profile sketch. Various other works were performed,
too many to enumerate, or fully explain ; the fitting the bed-
places of the officers and crew, in such a manner that they
might be taken on shore with ease, and formed into a dwelling
in case of shipwreck ; the galley, and other fire-places, stoves,
#c, for airing the ship, with every convenience requisite for
the voyage ; mode of stowing the boats, davits, skids, and a
roof, or covering of tilt over the ship's deck, in case of her
being frozen fast in the ice, and obliged to remain a winter in
that situation ; spare rudder complete, stowed on board by
the main-mast, and apparatus complete for Captain Pakenham's
rudder, in the event of both rudders being lost ; spare capstan,
fitted abreast the starboard side of fore hatchway, to heave the
ship a-head when in contact with the ice, §c. $c.

■ ip i.ij..*.np. ^jj'jji^py^aej.^'^,

INTRODUCTION.

PROFILE OF THE BOW.

MIDSHIP SECTION.

i 7T '?'! • rY

^^^7?*^^'

The Alexander, Dorothea, and Trent, were similarly fitted.

On the 22d of February the ships came out of dock, were
moored alongside the receiving ships at Deptford, where they
embarked the necessaries, provisions, and stores, which had
been in preparation for the voyage ; a list of which, for the
whole four ships, will be subjoined ; and it will be seen that
nothing was neglected which could be conducive to the health
and comfort of those who volunteered to serve on this
enterprise.

XIV

INTRODUCTION

The following Establishment of officers and men for the four
vessels, while employed on a voyage of discovery in the Arctic
Regions, with the pay, per month, allowed to the officers and
men, was finally settled.

iti

ISABELLA.

1 Captain £46 0 0

1 Lieutenant 18 8 °

1 Purser 7 13 4

1 Surgeon 39 4 0

1 Assistant Surgeon 18 4 0

2 Midshipmen (each) 6 2 8

1 Clerk 6 18 0

1 Master (merchant) > 5 0 0

1 Mate (merchant) 4 0 0

1 Carpenter 6 0 0

1 Sailmaker 4 0 0

1 Cook 4 0 0

4 Leading Men (each) 3 15 0

3 1 Able Seamen (each) 3 0 0

1 Serjeant of Marines (colour) ..542

1 Private ditto, 2d Class 1 18 4

4 Privates ditto, 3d Class 1 14 10

54 whole complement, per Admiralty order, 3d April,
1818; carried forward.

^Kwsar^^k^Tr^fr-^v'^j*^

1 Lieutenant and Commander <£23 0 0

1 Lieutenant 18 8 0

1 Purser 7 13 4

1 Assistant Surgeon 18 4 0

2 Midshipmen (each) 6 2 8

1 Clerk 6 18 0

1 Master (merchant) 5 0 0

1 Mate (merchant) 4 0 0

1 Carpenter • 6 0 0

] Cook - 4 0 0

1 Sailmaker 4 0 0

3 Leading Men (each) 3 15 0

17 Able Seamen (each) • • 3 0 0

1 Corporal Marines 2 10 10

4 Privates 1 14 10

37 whole complement, per Admiralty order, dated
3d April, 1818.

XVI

INTRODUCTION.

The officers were paid six and the seamen three months'
pay, (besides river pay) in advance.

The following Books were supplied for the use of the
officers, and quarter-deck petty officers, of His Majesty's ship
Isabella :

1 Mackenzie's Travels in America, 4to.

2 Hearne's ditto, ditto, 4to.

3 Phipp's Voyage to the North Pole, 4to.

4 Ellis's ditto to Hudson's Bay, 8vo.

5 Vancouver's Voyage, 3 vols. 4to., and Atlas, folio.

6 Wallis, Carteret, and Cook's Voyages, 8 vols. 4to., with

Atlas, folio.

7 Dampier's Voyages, 4 vols. 8vo.

8 Portlock's ditto, 4to.

9 Dixon's ditto, 4to.

10 Meare's ditto, 4to.

11 Coxe's Russian Discoveries, 8vo.

12 Barrington's Miscellanies, 4to.

13 Forster's Northern Discoveries, 2 vols. 4to.

14 Astronomical Observations of Wales and Bayly, 1772 to

1775, 4to.

15 Ditto of Cook, King, and Bayly, 1776 to 1780, 4to.

16 Ditto Byron, Wallis, Carteret, and Cook, from 1764 to

1771, 4to.

^^r^tr^r^^t^^^****** ™*^rw**arrs^^^

17 Broynart's Mineralogy, 2 vols. 8vo.

18 Bakewell's Geology, 8vo

19 Turton's Linnaeus, 7 vols. 8vo.

20 Mackenzie's Iceland, 4to.

21 Falconer's Patagonia, 4to.

22 Cartwright's Labrador, 3 vols. 4to.

23 TurnbulFs Voyage, 4to.

24 Crantz's History of Greenland, 2 vols. 8vo.

25 Burney's Collection of Voyages, 5 vols. 4to.

Thirty Bibles and sixty Testaments were also supplied by the
Naval and Military Bible Society, for the four ships, and
distributed accordingly.

A LIST OF INSTRUMENTS

For the Northern Expeditions.
Isabella.

Seven chronometers, three the property of Government, and
four of individuals*. A clock, the pendulum of which, cast in
one solid mass, vibrates on a blunt knife-edge, resting in
longitudinal sections of hollow cylinders of agate.

A transit, by Jones.

A variation transit, by Dollond.

*The Alexander had also three Government Chronometers.

XV111

INTRODUCTION

A dipping needle, the property of Henry Browne, Esq.,
made by Nairn.

A Dipping-needle, by Jones.

Ditto, by Troughton.

Ditto, by Lock wood.

A repeating circle, by Jones.

Altitude instrument, invented by Captain H. Kater, by
Jones.

Hygrometer, ditto, ditto.

Hydrometer, by Jones.

Cyanameter, by ditto.

Ten thermometers, ditto 1-

Fahrenheit.
One self-registering ditto, ditto J

One barometer, with attached thermometer, by ditto.

One dip micrometer, invented by Dr. Wollaston, by ditto.

One dip sector, ditto, ditto, by ditto.

One macrometer, ditto, ditto, ditto.

Electrical apparatus, invented by Sir. H. Davy.

Apparatus for taking up sea-water from given depths.

One common mountain barometer and companion.

Ditto, invented by Sir H. Englefield.

One sextant, by Dollond.

One theodolite, by Jones.

Two anglometers, by ditto.

One beam compass, by ditto.

One brass scale, by ditto.

One Gunter ditto, by ditto.

Tfr-gffl: ff^r^^r^^mywMB^t^^yj^y ^K^4^>^ ^^T«^^,,

^yssfaga

Two Kater's azimuth compass.

One Walker ditto, ditto.

One Jenning's insulated steering compass.

Four Alexander of Leith's steering compass.

One Crow's ditto.

One ditto boat ditto.

Two Burt's patent binnacle and ditto.

OTHER INSTRUMENTS.

Bain's patent log.

Massey's ditto.

Jenning's ditto and glass.

Burt's buoy and knipper.

Tren grouse's apparatus for saving lives.

Nets for small fish and invertebrate animals.

INTRODUCTION.

An Account shewing the several Articles of Warm Cloth-
ing supplied to each of the following vessels, in addition to
the established quantities of Slop Clothing.

SHIPS'

NAMES.

u
a
>->
bo

0
0

a
*-s
>>

■q

u
0)

0 .

."- CO

ST* .=

;fS

a
E

Pairs 0

"O co

B Q.
CS C3

a.
1

CD
O

s
0
0

a,
0

Gfi

-a 0

18 SB

0
0
M

100

Dorothea ....

100

Alexander . .

170

340

170

340

170

340

170

One complete suit of the above warm clothing to be
furnished to the seamen and marines, gratis ; and the residue
(if issued) to be charged, subject to the consideration of the
Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty.

N. B. One complete suit was issued to each man on the 22d
of September.

**«« ^^^r^^rTO^roa-^^ ^eimigyg-- ^->^»ir^^^ifr^Kt^wrrv>^*^^ '

INTRODUCTION. XXI

Isabella, Dorothea, Trent, Alexander.
Wolf-skin blanketing • • • • 60 60 40 40

Russian mats 1000 1000 800 800

Rifles complete 6 6 4 4

Seven barreled guns 6 6 4 4

Wall-pieces 6 6 4 4

Ball-cartridges for the above 3600 3600 2400 2400

Coverings of Maberly's painted canvass to each ship, suffi-
cient to cover the decks fore and aft.

Whale lines 81 No.

Whale boats 5

Ice boat 1

Ice Anchors 24

Ice Saws 18

Ice Axes • • 12

Ice Spurs 10 Pairs

Ice pole hooks 4

Suits of sails, extra 2

Canvass sufficient for one new suit of sails for Isabella, with
twine and needles in proportion.

No. 1 956 yards

2 ••••; 175

4 669

5 178

6 330

7 1,222

8 522

Total canvass in yards • • • • 4,052

-UJli.liJJj.UJi

mil

11 i

XXI 1

INTRODUCTION.

Ice poles • • • 10 No.

Whale lances 24

Knives, chopping 5

Knives, blubber 5

Harpoons, plain • 6

Harpoon's gun 1

Deep-sea leads, 150 pounds weight • • 1

Ditto, 100 ditto •• 1

Ditto, 50 ditto •• 1

The following stores were intended for building and repairing
whale boats, in addition to the quantity supplied for twenty-six
lunar months.

Board fir, one inch 612 Feet.

half inch 528

„ three-quarters ditto. .1,568

Deal-wood flitches 10 No.

Stems 5

Stern ports 5

Keels, running 100 Feet.

Gun wales, ditto 310

Cants 10 No.

Bollards 5

Aprons 10

Futtocks 6*4

±±*w. ^^ffr^»^iWCTwa«w ^^^^^»«^>^ xiw^ ^ >~^<*r^K^Ar~±rsz*n>^^,* «

Ring bolts
Stem bands
Nails, boat,

22 oz 4,000

GUNNER S STORES.

The ships were provided with ordnance, as follows : —

Isabella, carronades, No. 6 18 pounders.

Dorothea, ditto, 6 18 ditto.

Alexander, ditto, 4 . ... 12 ditto.
Trent, , ditto, 4 12 ditto.

..LU^lUJ^UJg

Xxiv INTRODUCTION.

With powder and shot for three years, besides an extra allow-
ance of fine powder, of six cases to each of the larger ships,
and to all a proportion of small shot of various sizes.

Gunner's stores for three years, of every description; an
armourer's forge in each of the large ships, and tool chest
complete for armourer and carpenter.

The following were intended for presents to the natives on
the West coast of Greenland and coast of America, §c.

Brass kettles 24 No.

Knives, forks, and cases .... 300

Axes, felling, wedge 20

Butchers' knives 150

Flannel, red 150 Yards.

yellow 100

blue 100

Felling axes 10 No.

Looking-glasses 200

Needles, Whitechapel 2,000

Vermilion 15 Pounds.

Cutlasses 36 No.

Gun-flints 1,500

Scarlet-milled caps 100

Swords 14

W«iiy^ri^»rry»a^s^^

INTRODUCTION.

Thread, Red 20 Pounds

Pistols 16 No.

Scissors 30 Pairs.

Razors 40 No.

Coarse handkerchiefs 50

Awls, shoemakers' ■ 100

Rifles 35

Balls for ditto 2500

Snuff • • • • 102 Pounds.

Earthen-ware 4 Cases

Soap • • > 150 Pounds

Pikes 250 No.

Iron hoops 2 Cwt.

Gin (English) 129 Gallons.

Brandy 1291

Various beads & Cowrie shells 13 Cases.
Umbrellas 40 No.

XXVI

INTRODUCTION.

AN ACCOUNT shewing the Distribution of Sixty-nine Iron
Provision-Tanks, furnished (for the better convenience of
Stowage, to the several Vessels) employed on a Voyage of
Discovery in the Arctic Regions.

Iron Tanks. Ft. In.

Isabella, 9 of 3 8 each tank contained 1008lbs. of biscuit.
„ 9 of 3 0 each contained from 13 to 16 cwt. of

flour.
„ 4 of 3 0 each contained 23 bushels of pease.

These tanks were directed to be filled
with whatever denomination of provi-
sions the respective commanders and
pursers might think most advan-
k tageous for stowage.

Dorothea, 8 of 3 8

14 of 3 0

Treat 13 of 3 0

Alexander, 12 of 3 0

Isabella &] One oven, of 2 feet, furnished by Storey for baking
Dorothea J bread with little fuel.

^Mrere ..^it^snTW^aiFrvm^ :>*K»crer^«««g«rr^^

■mxsgss&L-

r - ^J^Jf 5-WM&M?

(U OJJ

[

to co co

to to

(ft

to to

IS N S N

t>» t-* r-.

r»*

r^.

Tn.

r>.

»■»

r>.

i>. tN.

tN.

pjBog no on (u-iuj.

U0 LO W

in in

m m

m lo in in

IO lO lO

m in

spnnoj 'sajpuB3

H OS CO

t-- to

Tjl

•* -*

in t>- co o

o o o

00 Ol

In.

"sjaqstifj

01 Ol 01

oi to

O 01

to in in t*

rH *^ O

Tf Tf

rH l-t

01 -* «

■

suojp|Bq3

00
CO

asaaqo

.-(

s
o

r-4

■'3}}»a

Tf
m

sasE3 'sdojj

1 S5

ptre ;ibj^_jo aouassa

1 ">

SJOJ

■*

"«*

'aorudg jo aanass-q

Ti1

dnog pa}BJjuao

o
o

-uog 'sjuij .laj.iBnf)

dnog
ajqijjaSa \ jo siJBUfj

o
o

«*

Tf
Tf

CO
lO

sjBa^

o
o

In.

»>.

fN.

In.

BlW

01
00

paAaasa.id;

Cl
LO

" "

in.

ODoeqoj,

in.

•-

Ol •

CO
Ol

T3
C

MIS m|S

H«

MIS

Mid

MIS

M|S

m;m Ha

MIS

aainf uoma'j

CD
0)

Tf CI Ol

T|i

Tf
01

Tf Tf

Ol 01

IN.

Ml* «|*

MS Hfcl

M-1

BO303

CO
0)

lO W 00

tN. IN.

F- tO

tN. to X CO

CO X o

(n. CO

M|S M|S

Cl Ol Ol

IT) 01

H|S

rn 01

Tf 01 01 T»

CO O l^

„

C) 0!

to
m

JB^ng

CO CO CO

CO CO

Tf Tj-

if tf Tf T?

■n* m co

lo in

,—

pjatuiBQ

o
co

-si

MIS

■asEaj

m
to

. mIS MS

M|S

hn Ma

H|»

Hd wla

wl^ NCI H^

MIS

M|«

M|S

m;s

MIS mIS

suistey

O CO

CO CI

N CJ t *

m - .

CO 01

01 01

01 CS 01 Ol

Co-

lang

o
in

m rH i-r

to o

Cl Ol Cl

ts
s
s

„,

.niou

CO Ol CO

m to

CO o.

co m oi oi

Ol 01 Ol

Tf CO

30 0* CO

in Ol

tN. (N.

O CD Ol 01

01 01 Ol

01 o

i-l

01 rH 01 01

0* CM 01

o»

jaag qsa.tj

01 lO CO

CO ■- ^

01 01 f

si.

sqi s '^joj

CO CO

ce in

co to O CO

Tf Tf CO

Ol LI

Ol
■ U3

Tf Tf

T* Tf

<j m m in

!<*■»*.■»*

Til

110

LO LO

■*

1— 1

sqit'.paa

Tf Tf

W lfl tC

O -1

Tt Tf

01 r. Tf tO

CM Ol CO

to to

CO CO

m 04 CO

Cl Ol

CO CO

01 01 CO 01

CI 01 CO

p-t

CO 01

•-*

r-< i-(

iuSam\

a«!M

rH Ol

rH 01 CO 01

01 CO co

o co

• 01

IN.

C7i

sji.udg

Tii co

CO 01

Ol r. co in

01 Ol 01

co to

r-i — Ct

01 rH

01 01

01 01 01 01

Ol 01 01

O O CO

In. 1^.

oi m

in c-N c co

O 01 o

Til

c co

spnnoj ui 'pea.ijj

LO
O)

oi ci -n
« ci n

01 01
CO CO

CO
CO

ct in

01 Ol

rn oi in co

Ol CO CI CO

01 -«* ■ «*
O) 01 CO

01
01

CO
CO

Ol
01

01
01

Tf C
Tf CO

LO
In.

CO CO o

CO o

r>.

TT -H

co m rn oo

m oi Ci

•-H

(^ Tf

„

'ZT'.^'

p-« 01 CO

i-l ex

r-l CM

i-i 01 01

S 2

<£

3
i-o

Oi
C/J

01 CJ
r= O
0-1 rH

a
'5

a o

r ~ £

£ £

£ £ £ "

£ £ ^

£ £

.a co

ABEL

1813.

1-5

>-3

ft
t»

s "3

4> 5 ^
B1 s-io:

Ol to co

to CO

tN.- Tjl

rH X> LO l_1

CC ifl oi

O tN.

~*Z

FH 0*

— i rt Ct

i-t oi

-Ml Ol X

1 «

*m^m*mmr

.4J.*^.H P. IU

-a
a

a,
IS

ffl

—

<M
O

a
'etf

S
oj

-e

£> 5

re"
s

g
o

CO J«

•*" to

§ S

-3

B -Q

■5 Q

0) a)

o
o
o

piBOg UO '0[>J p3}

•X |

1-^

■S[3qsng 'sjeo^

<?J

c»

•^

■*

-T

0)
0*

o»

coo

spuno^ 'sajpuBQ

t»

t^.

•^

•*

1^ c

— 01

cr
03

sasSBjojg jo spuaoj

SJOd

'aoniiT^ ,?o son ^ss-^

'j'

sdofj pire 5[Ki\r

r^.

JO 83U3SSJT JO S3SB;~|

sjufcl § 'sdiios

p3}BJJU30nO3

1 •

•

S}.lfcilfJ

_IK

HC* i-IM

Mil*

rtn

-i-

Mlfl

MlCl

Cf)

'duos; siqEjoSa^

s4E3j\i paAJssajj

CO
- CO

•

, — ;

;

CO
CO

ooDBqox

CO
CO

OJ
CO

■*

110

33mf U0W3-J

CO
10

;

o
a.

w-t

B0003

Oi
CO

l>.

„w

-w

j jeSng

0»

T»

h»- C

c»

■<t

•fl

•^

■^

•»

-V

■«

■*

e»

T»

suojpsg '[BauUBO

Hlfl

cc?

SU0[|B9

c»

•

■^,

•

spqsng

•

snisiEy

0»

•*

t4-

J311S

110

l~»

■a

o»

Irt

jnou

CO
CO

•^

-f

■«

r«

■^

J3c>a MS3.I.I

c-.

!->.

IH|«

sq| 5 '^joj

■^

h»

• r«

r>.

o»

•*

o»

sqj fr 'jssg

-T

r>.

«*

jbSju;^

■«

■*

-<t

■s

■*

•fl*

■^

■<r

o
"S3

3U!AV

■*

sjiudg

•^

MlM MIT

C7l

(V)

r^.

t^ «:

spnnOjj ui 'pcsjg

1 :

! :

„

1 a

t£

■*

o»

1 «■

) 'O

. "»

,«

1 w

_>.

]

a>
-O

i —

(

>-»

2 2

*fl CO

•^

•*

* "*

N "

X ~
3

'cti

■»

a
<

l>.

» f

< a

S ph

i e

1 UO

<y>

t>.

■<*

»s ^

•*

V ^

^ "*

ecj

^^« ,i>-^^^-^'v^r^ y^f- • -WJWMwar^Hwgww y-^^y >=-.

^F^^;*^'

■3SWWK::

^J^S€K2«JbS-

■
: 1 _ :■

INTRODUCTION.

xxix

"53

-a
o

-3

Sri

CD
JO

CD
m.

"53

.5
u

Oh
CO
CD

S-H

CD
g

"*co

a-
"_a

(73

a
'3
so

S-i

CI
CD

<+H

•s[E03 jo sao.ipiei|3

tJJIAV

pOlSBJlBq 3.I3M

scliq-s aqj.

•japAvoj dapss

a S

O
CN

0
0*

•suoi(B3 'aarejpdBQ

CM
CM

"*
t^

•3

•sasse[ojfl

CO
wo

CO
CM
CO

' -93JpilB3

■* 1

•aoinf uoiu

«1S

-IS

o
Oh

CD
5-
CD

- rr-j

c
o

s
s

»0

r*lS

•aoinf uoinaq

■ODOEqox

O
O

0
0

CO
CN

-f
00

C*H

■ o

-a
o

"3
O

•je§8u;a

CM
CO

H
O

r— 1

O
»— i

■■d
c

h— 1

<*-

*-4-j
CI
OS

Of
a

CD
J3

'co

CD
%

CD
O

o
<

CD
CD

■4-J

&J0

_-g
"53

-a

.2
*j— »

a
s

"53

CO
CD

•sjuidg

wo
CI

WO
CN

wis

«1S

VIO

•aat^v.

O
O
1^

0
0

O
O-)

0
00
CO

o
"3

■jeaimBO

O
CO

IN
O

•asEaj

ml*
CO

o
c

3
o

■jbShs

0
0

0
0
0%

O
CO

CO
<N
CO

•E0003

0
en

CO
co h

coi

O
CO

CO
CO

•soisiejj

0
0

0
■ 0

O
O

0
0

0
0
0

CM
O
CN

■;an&'

0
0
0

O
1^

0
0

1 0

1 CM

•jnou

;s3oaid
•sqj xis '5)aoj

0
0

CO
CM

0
0

co
co

•sdjaid

•sen vffi? "J33a

0
0

o
P*

pE3.!a JO

nai[ 11; ano]j[

0
0

CM
CO

0
0
c»

0
0.

■peaia

O
O
CM
00

0
0

CO
CO

Ships' Names

and
Complement.

J2
'"3
a

S3
Cv

O
O

CJ
Ml

«0
CO

-a
B

T-H

LUl.LBLLtW.mL

XXX

INTRODUCTION.

' i

The following STATEMENT comprehends the PROVISIONS and VICTUALLING STORES furnished

°co
<LI
-Q

cd
«?

-a

CD
+->
O

a
_o

"■3
'3

-a

>
O

>•>

G
O

"3,
E

CD
co

CO
CO

CD
>

CD
-G

-*— i

<+»

o
o

CD
O

cd
6lC

CD
+->

S-,

u
a

CJ
CO

a
_o

"3
O

cd~

CD
r-j
j-i
O

-a
c

jd
"S

\—t

-t-J

•saSeqqug

o o o O
cn c* ex ex

sjiiuib^

o o o o

<X CX Of CX

•spunoj 'jhoj3 inos

** «* ■* <*
<x ex oj ex
ex ex ex ex

CO
O0

<4-i
o

3
pa

•snoiuQ

ex ex o o

•sdans.re^

'f ^ CO CO

■*

■SJ0.1.IB3

O o «o «o
ex ex r- t-i

•sdiujnx

O o oc oo

•SUOX 'S304B}OcJ

>-l^ Wirt

'O eo ■* -^

-a
a

3
O
ft

•pasg £»PO

c
o

3 O *0 «0

( ex i- — i

Bw£.\\jjaoui3'j

! CO "* ■*

■£lOAEg

co co ex ex

•UIBJOfjBJ\I

<0 CO ■* tJI

•aon/Cqj,

<0 <0 ■* T?

•aSBg

eo ex ex

•iu|Ba

O "0 «0

i co ex ex

'WW

c
<5

o o

CO CO

'aon.idg jo aoaassg

-f

c
c

CO
«0

•dung pajBjjuaa

c
c

o o

i— 1 r-*

o ■

•dnos

c
cr

o o

o
<*

p8A.iasaj,j jo spunoj

c
c
c

c
c

O
c-

> c

CO
CO

eo
1^

•sdoH PUB J]EJ\[

jo aauassjj jo saseg

CO CO

SHIPS' NAMES.

fc-

•iV*^!

^.^-i^^v^i^w^^^w^.^^^ >^^ ^i^r^^Ar^m*^^^*^

WRSGSg'

^J5^3Mf*^5S

INTRODUCTION.

XXXI

During our stay at Deptford, we were joined by John
Sacheuse, an Eskimaux, native of South-east Bay, Greenland,
in latitude 69° N., and longitude 50° W. It would appear that he
had concealed himself on board the Thomas and Ann, ofLeith,
in the month of May, 1816: on being discovered, Captain
Newton, who commanded that vessel, wished to land him again,
but he earnestly entreated to be permitted to remain, and he
was accordingly brought to Leith. He returned to Greenland
with the same ship in 1817, and, on his arrival at home, found his
only near relation had died in his absence. It was not ascer-
tained, at his first outset, what were his motives for quitting his
native country • but it seemed now that the death of his relation
was his reason for continuing in the ship, which he did, re-
turning to Leith with her the same season. I had several con-
versations with him on the subject ; he related many adventures
and narrow escapes he had experienced in his canoe, in one of
which he stated himself to have been carried to sea in a storm
with five others, all of whom perished, and that he was miracu-
lously saved by an English ship. He also informed me that he
had, through the missionaries, been converted to Christianity,
and the strong desire he had to see the country these good men
came from, had induced him to desert his own ; but that it was
always his intention to return, when he had learnt the Scriptures
and the art of drawing ; he related several traditions current in

W , Ul_.l JP, UJ1.LBLLIJ.1JJ!

XXXI 1

INTRODUCTION.

his country respecting a race of people who were supposed to
inhabit the north ; adding, that it was for the purpose of com-
municating with them, and converting them to Christianity, that
he had volunteered for our expedition.

During his residence at Leith, in the winter of 1817, he had
been taken notice of by Mr. Nasmyth, the artist, who intro-
duced him to Sir James Hall. His wishes to accompany us
were made known to the Admiralty through Captain Basil Hall,
and he was consequently engaged as our interpreter. His utility
to us in communicating with the natives will be apparent in the
course of this Narrative. He returned, like the rest of the crew,
in perfect health, during the passage home ; often repeating
that, when he had got more instructions on religion, he would
return to the wild people, and endeavour to convert them to
Christianity.

His meritorious conduct was represented by me to the Admi-
ralty in the strongest terms ; their Lordships treated him with the
utmost liberality, and, aware of the importance of his services
on a future expedition, had taken steps to have him properly in-
structed, and for which purpose he was sent to Edinburgh ;
here he was unfortunately attacked by a typhus fever, which
carried him off on the 14th of February, after a few days'

illness.

Our equipment being completed, the expedition was inspected

^■^ i> wr^->>'>^r;->^«^K** *BMIW,X*M,W

K^-^tf-t' >■

fi£££2

by his Royal Highness the Duke of Clarence, and subsequently
by the First Lord of the Admiralty, and Comptroller of the
Navy, who were pleased to express their approbation of the
manner in which the Ships were strengthened and fitted ; and, the
provisions being stowed, we dropped down to Galleons on the
4th of April, and received our powder and ordnance stores.
On the 16th we arrived at the Nore, where the chronometers,
and other instruments, were embarked, and where I received
my final Instructions, a copy of which precedes the Narrative.

i ■ i

^ss^so^iip^^c^^mr^\s^c?^r>^si^9^s :

i°?i*¥^i^iFy**^nr\«*&* " '

Iceberg, an insulated mountain of ice.

A Field, a piece of ice so large that its extent cannot be
seen.

A Floe, a piece of ice of a considerable size, but the extent
of which can be distinguished.

A Patch, a number of pieces of ice overlapping and joining
each other.

A Stream, a number of pieces of ice joining each other in a
ridge on any particular direction.

Loose Ice, a number of pieces near each other, but through
which the ship can make way.

'Sailing Ice, a number of pieces at a distance, sufficient for a
ship to be able to beat to windward among it.

Brash Ice, ice in a broken state, and in such small pieces,
that the ship can easily force through.

Cake Ice, ice formed in the early part of the same season.
Bay Ice, newly-formed ice, having the colour of the water.
Hummocks of Ice, lumps of ice thrown up by some pressure,
or force, on a field or floe.

XXXVI

EXPLANATIONS.

Heavy Ice, that which has a great depth in proportion, and
is not in a state of decay.

A Lane, or Vein, a narrow channel between two floes or
fields.

Beset, surrounded with ice, so as to be obliged to remain
immoveable.

Nipt, caught and jammed between two pieces of ice.

A Tongue, a piece projecting from the part of an iceberg
which is under water.

A Calf, a piece of ice which breaks from the lower part of
a field or berg, and rises with violence to the surface of the
water.

A Barrier, ice stretching from the land ice to the sea ice,
or across a channel, so as to be impassable.

Land Tee, ice attached to the shore within which there is no
channel.

Sea Ice, ice within which there is a separation from the
land.

ham^K.^^^r^^^rr^^^

Sailing of the Expedition from the River— Arrival at, and Departure from, Shet-
land, p. 17.

CHAPTER II.

Continuation of the Voyage— Olof Kramer's Shoal— Existence of the sunken
land of Buss doubted— Sight of the first Iceberg— Arrival at Davis' Strait-
Observations on Chronometers, p. 23.

CHAPTER III.

Progress of the Voyage up the Straits— Sundry Observations— Intercourse with
the Natives— Difficulties in the Ice— Large Icebergs— Arrival and Detention at
Waygatt, p. 34. ■

CHAPTER IV.

Departure from Waygatt— Perilous progress through the Ice to Unknown Island-
Pass the second and third Barriers of Ice— A Bear on the Ice— Accident to the
Master of a Whaler from the attack of one of these Animals— Melville's Monu-
ment, and Melville Bay discovered— Harpooning a Whale, p. 49-

CHAPTER V.

Continued progress through the Ice— Imminent Peril of the Ships— Discovery of
an unknown tribe of Eskimaux— Intercourse with the Natives, p. 73.

LU^LIMJ, LLJL

xxxvin CONTENTS.

CHAPTER VI.

The Ships obliged to leave their Moorings — Further Communication with the
Natives— Discovery of Prince Regent's Bay— and Departure from it, p. 97.

CHAPTER VII.

The Arctic Highlands— Nature of the Country— its Produce— Inhabitants-
Language— Mode of Living— Manners and Customs— Religion, p. 1 15.

CHAPTER VIII.

Passage through the last Barrier— Discovery of Cape York— Crimson Cliffs and
Coloured Snow— Cape Dudley Digges— Formation of an Iceberg— Petowack—
Wolstenholme Sound — Observations on the Atmosphere, p. 136.

CHAPTER IX.

Progress towards the North— Whale Sound, Carey's Islands, and Head of Baffin's
Bay, discovered— Smith's Sound— Cape Clarence— Jones's Sound— Entangled
with Ice— Thick Fogs— Cape Leopold— Princess Charlotte's Monument— Get
clear of the Ice, and proceed to the Southward, p. 146,

CHAPTER X.

Further progress to the Southward— Find Open Sea— Discover, and give Names
to, various Headlands and Bay— Arrive at Lancaster Sound, and explore it-
Take possession of the Country— Extraordinary Variation of the Compass— Con-
tinue exploring the Coast to the Southward, p. 162.

CHAPTER XI.

Continue our Progress to the Southward, exploring the West Coast of Baffin's
Bay— Cape Graham Moore— Pond's Bay— Courts' Inlet— Discovered Land
Trends to the Eastward— North Galloway and North Ayr discovered, and Names
given to various Places— Land on an Island near Cape Eglinton, which is named
Agnes' Monument— Coast Trends to the Southward— Continue exploring it, and
reach Cape Walsingham, p. 190.

^^ ^-i^^AT^.^^^^T^^^^^-^w^^^^^^^^^v ^r^^^r^^^^jf^sm^^

Proceedings off Cape Walsingham and Mount Raleigh — Experiments on the
Temperature of the Water — The Breadth of Davis' Strait, and Non-existence of
James's Island determined — Progress to the Southward — Sanderson's Tower —
Several Islands discovered — Arrive off Cumberland Strait — Departure taken from
Resolution Island — Attempt to make Cape Farewell — A dreadful Storm — Arrive
at Shetland, p. 212.

Proceedings of the Ships at Shetland — Sail from thence, and arrive at Hull —
General Orders to the Officers, and various Regulations — Arrival in the Thames —
and Conclusion of the Voyage, p. 227.

MMMMMm

DIRECTIONS FOR PLACING THE PLATES.

PAGE

III

: ;!

Ml;, i

Chart, as Frontispiece.

1. Gai-die-house, Seat of W. Mouat, Esq To face 18

2. Passage through the Ice 46

3. A remarkable Iceberg, latitude 70° 45' N 47

4. Island of Disco and Icebergs 50

5. Kalie, native of Opernovick 55

6. Remarkable Iceberg, latitude 74° 58

7. Isabella and Alexander sawing the Ice 62

8. Cape Melville and Melville's Monument 74

9- Perilous Situation of the Isabella and Alexander 77

10. First Communication with the Natives, by Sacheuse 88

11. Ervick, native of Prince Regent's Bay 95

12. Arctic Highlanders 95

13. Sledge, #c 102

14. Chart of the Part of Baffin's Bay found Inhabited 116

15. Crimson Cliffs 13g

16. Petowack, formation of an Iceberg ]4J

17. Wolstenholme Sound 142

18. Cape Leopold, Coburg Bay ifji

19. Cape Byam Martin 170

20. View of Lancaster Sound -> r

21. Chart of Lancaster Sound j To face each other { Y7 4

22. Cape Graham Moore, fyc 122

23. Dog and Bear's Heads 199

24. Bear plunging into the Sea 208

APPENDIX.

1. Xeme

2. -.

I Meteorological Journals. N. B. The small one, with Direc-

Hions, to face May and October ; next, June and July ; then
J August and September

lvii

£>

iews of Headlands

To follow
Appendix.

^^ao^Ti^^^f

. .-■■,.; >S^lS. *£

«jujy

OFFICIAL INSTRUCTIONS.

By the Commissioners for executing the Office of
Lord High Admiral of the United Kingdom
of Great Britain and Ireland, fyc.

rllS Royal Highness The Prince Regent having signified his
pleasure to Viscount Melville, that an attempt should be made
to discover a Northern Passage, by sea, from the Atlantic to the
Pacific Ocean ; We have, in consequence thereof, caused four
ships or vessels to be fitted out and appropriated for that pur-
pose, two of which, the Isabella and the Alexander, are intended
to proceed together by the north-westward through Davis'
Strait ; and two, the Dorothea and Trent, in a direction as due
north as may be found practicable through the Spitzbergen seas.

" And whereas we have thought fit to intrust you with the
command and direction of the former expedition, and have
directed Lieutenant Parry, who has been appointed to command
the Alexander, to follow your orders for his further proceedings;
you are hereby required and directed to proceed to sea, with all
convenient despatch,, in the Isabella, and, taking under your
orders the Alexander above mentioned, make the best of your

; r- ^^*inw-mi*x^ ygK^aar ^i~<=

ill

A OFFICIAL INSTRUCTIONS.

way into Davis' Strait, through which you will endeavour to
pass to the northward, without stopping on either of its coasts,
unless you shall find it absolutely necessary. In this passage
you may expect to meet with frequent obstructions from fields
and islands of ice; to get clear of which, and to ensure the
safety of the ships and people committed to your charge, will
require from you, and all who are under your orders, the greatest
precaution and vigilance. And, as the navigation among ice
may be considered as an art to be acquired only by practice,
we have directed that there be appointed to each of the ships
under your orders, a master and a mate of whale-fishing vessels,
well experienced in those seas, from whose knowledge and skill
you may derive material assistance.

" It is not improbable that in the early part of the season,
when you may be expected to arrive in Davis' Strait, the ice
may be found to stretch across from land to land ; but as ice is
known to vary in its position from year to year, and several
times in the course of a year, and, in those places where not fast
by the ground, is almost constantly in motion by winds, tides,
and currents ; if, on your arrival, it should appear to present a
compact barrier, you will, of course, be prepared to avail
yourself of the first opening which may be discovered, to pass
to the northward. As, however, in the present state of uncer-
tainty with regard to the movements of the ice, and with the
very imperfect knowledge we have of this strait, and still more
so of the sea beyond it, no specific instructions can be given
for your guidance, the time and manner of proceeding to fulfil

gfrt^garn^Ti^^^

.-.i.^AHt^t

w^a,.*. .■■»

OFFICIAL INSTRUCTIONS.

the ulterior object of your destination, in places where impe-
diments may occur, must be left entirely to your discretion ; in
the exercise of which, we rely on your zeal and skill in your
profession for the accomplishment, as far as it can be accom-
plished, of the service on which you are employed ; not doubting
that every exertion will be made on your part, and on that of
your officers, while, at the same time, no precaution will be
omitted, that prudence may dictate, to avoid accidents on an
enterprise of so arduous a nature as that of conducting ships in
safety through fields of ice in unknown seas. It may not,
however, be amiss to suggest, as a general observation, that a
passage through fields of ice is most likely to be found where
the sea is deepest and least connected with land ; as there is
reason to suppose that ice is found to be more abundant near
the shores of the continent and islands, in narrow straits, and
deep bays. And it may also be expected, that the sea will be
most clear of ice where the currents are strongest, as the stream
of a river will continue open long after the sides are frozen up.

" From the best information we have been able to obtain, it
would appear that a current of some force runs from the
northward towards the upper part of Davis' Strait, during the
summer season, and, perhaps, for some part of the winter also,
bringing with it fields of ice in the spring, and ice bergs in the
summer.

" This current, if it be considerable, can scarcely be altogether

supplied by streams from the land, or the melting of ice; there

would, therefore, seem reason to suppose, that it may be

b 2

OrriCIAL INSTRUCTIONS.

|| it i

derived from an open sea ; in which case, Baffin's Bay cannot
be bounded by land, as our charts generally represent it, but
must communicate with the Arctic Ocean.

" In passing up the Strait, if such a current should be disco-
vered, it will be of the greatest importance to you, in pointing out
that part of the Strait which is likely to be the least encumbered
with ice, as well as leading you direct to the opening by which
it may be supposed to pass from the Arctic Sea into Davis'
Strait.

" In tracing this current, you will soon discover whether it
takes its origin in the north-east or north-west quarter : if in
the former, you will, of course, abandon all pursuit of it
further ; but if it should come from the north-west or west, it
will prove the best guide you can follow, to lead you to the
discovery of which you are in search.

" The strength and direction of the current should be tried
once in twenty-four hours ; or oftener, if any material change
is observed to take place; and it will be most advisable to
take its temperature at the surface frequently, as you proceed,
to compare it with the temperature of the surface, where there
is no current.

If the reports of several intelligent masters of whaling
vessels may be relied on, that part of the sea to the northward
of Davis' Strait, which is marked on the charts as ' Baffin's
Bay,' (that is to say, from the 72d degree of northern latitude,
to the 77th, where Baffin is supposed to have seen the land,)
is generally free from field' ice, which, from its extent of

ftS

I.1 . ■. J I I-. ■ J ■

OFFICIAL INSTRUCTIONS. 5

surface, offers the greatest impediment to navigation. Should
you find this actually to be the case, it may be advisable to
stand well to the northward, before you edge away to the
westward, in order to get a good offing, in rounding the north-
east point of the continent of America ; whose latitude has
not been ascertained, but which, if a conjecture may be
hazarded, from what is known of the northern coast of that
continent, may perhaps be found in or about the 72d degree
of latitude.

" In the event of your being able to succeed in rounding
this point, and finding the sea open, you are carefully to avoid
coming near the coast, where you would be most likely to be
impeded by fixed or floating ice; but, keeping well to the
northward, and in deep water, make the best of your way to
Behring's Strait, through which you are to endeavour to pass
into the Pacific Ocean ; and, in the event of your succeeding
to pass this Strait, you are then to make the best of your
way to Kamtschatka, if you think you can do so without risk
of being shut up by the ice on that coast, for the purpose of
delivering to the Russian Governor, duplicates of all the journals
and other documents which the passage may have supplied,
with a request, that they may be forwarded overland to
St. Petersburgh, to be conveyed from thence to London ; and
from this, you will proceed to the Sandwich Islands, or New
Albion, or such other place in the Pacific Ocean as you may
think proper, to refit and refresh your crews ; and if, during
your stay at such place, a safe opportunity should occur of

mr->^ ^v^>^ ^<t y:

OFFICIAL INSTRUCTIONS.

sending these papers to England, you should send duplicates
by that conveyance.

" If the circumstances of your passage should be such as to
encourage your attempting to return by the same course, you
may winter at the Sandwich Islands, New Albion, or any
other proper place ; and, early in next spring, may proceed
direct for Behring's Strait, and use your endeavours to repass
the same ; and, should you succeed in this attempt, you are to
proceed, if possible, to the eastward, keeping in sight and
approaching the coast of America, whenever the position of
the ice will permit you so to do, in order that you may be
enabled to ascertain the latitudes and longitudes of some of the
most remarkable headlands or inlets that may occur ; taking
every possible precaution, however, against being beset by the
ice, and thus compelled to winter on that coast.

" Before, however, you determine on returning by the same
way, you will maturely consider and weigh the prudence of
making such an attempt. If your original passage should be
made with facility, and you see reason to believe that your
success was not owing to circumstances merely accidental or
temporary, and that there is a probability that you may be able
also to accomplish the passage back, it would be undoubtedly
of great importance that you should endeavour to make it : but
if, on the other hand, it shall have been attended with circum-
stances of danger or difficulty, so great as to persuade you that
the attempt to return would risk the safety of the ships, and the
lives of the crews, you, in this case, are to abandon all thoughts

«3S>SHi ~-

^-^^

..-■••ii > ..^-' ■,-■

-J J JM

IWfRffW

OFFICIAL INSTRUCTIONS.

of returning by^ the northern passage, and are to make the best
of your way home-ward, by Cape Horn.

" Previous to your leaving England, or at any rate before
your departure from Shetland, you are to fix with Captain Bu-
chan, to whom the other expedition is intrusted, upon a ren-
dezvous in the Pacific ; and if you should be joined by the
Dorothea and Trent, or either of them, you are to take them
under your command ; and, having detached one ship, with a
copy of all your papers, and a complete set of despatches re-
porting your proceedings, to England, by the route of Cape
Horn, you are to proceed with the other ships to repass Behring's
Strait, as above directed, if you should have determined on that
course ; but, if you should have resolved to return by the South,
you are to take care to interchange with Captain Buchan
copies of your respective journals and despatches ; or, if you do
not meet Captain Buchan, or his ships, you are to deposit
copies of your own papers, on board the Alexander, in order to
ensure, as far as possible, the arrival of these important docu-
ments in England, by thus multiplying the modes of conveyance.

' If, however, it should so happen, that from obstruction of
ice, or any other circumstance, your progress to the westward
should prove too slow to admit of your approach to Behring s
Strait, before the present season shall be too far advanced, to
make it safe to attempt that passage ; and, at the same time,
your progress should be too considerable to the westward, to
ensure your return the same season by the way of Davis' Strait ;
you are, in that case, to edge down to the northern coast of

?.*r^H^4r-*r^t<rr^

«nm

OrriCIAL INSTRUCTIONS.

I| III !

ill ■
■

America, and endeavour to find out some secure bay, in which
the ships may be laid up for the winter ; taking such measures
for the health and comfort of the people committed to your
charge, as the materials with which you are supplied for housing-
in the ships, or hutting the men on shore, may enable you to
do : and, if you shall find it expedient to resort to this measure,
and you should meet with any inhabitants, either Eskimaux or
Indians, near the place where you winter, you are to endeavour
by every means in your power to cultivate a friendship with
them, by making them presents of such articles as you may be
supplied with, and which may be useful or agreeable to them :
you will, however, take care not to suffer yourself to be sur-
prised by them, but use every precaution, and be constantly
on your guard against any hostility.

" You will endeavour to prevail on them, by such reward, and
to be paid in such manner, as you may think best to answer the
purpose, to carry to any of the settlements of the Hudson's
Bay Company, or of the Northwest Company, an account of
your situation and proceedings, with an urgent request that it
may be forwarded to England with the utmost possible des-
patch.

" If, however, all your endeavours should fail in getting so
far to the westward as to enable you to double the north-
eastern extremity of America, (round which these Instructions
have hitherto supposed a passage to exist), you are, in that
case, to use all the means in your power, by keeping to the
northward and eastward, to ascertain to what extent you can

^re'v^r-HSW^BBOW^^ -<■

»• • ;>"V^A ,...■}■:

'.W>^Qx~

PJ M»-l

I.' . .» I1"

OFFICIAL INSTRUCTIONS.

proceed along the western coast of Old Greenland ; and whether
there is any reason to suppose that it forms a part of the conti-
nent of America ; and you are also to endeavour to improve
the very imperfect geography of the eastern coast of America,
and of the island or islands which are supposed to intervene
between it and Disco Island in Davis' Strait; bat you are, on no
account, in this latter case, to remain on this service so long,
unless accidentally caught in the ice, as to be obliged to winter
on any part of the eastern coast of America, or the western coast
of Old Greenland, or the intermediate islands ; but to leave the
ice about the middle or 20th of September, or the 1st of Octo-
ber at the latest, and make the best of your way to the River
Thames.

" Although the first, and most important, object of this voyage,
is the discovery of a passage from Davis' Strait, along the nor-
thern coast of America, and through Behring's Strait, into the
Pacific ; it is hoped, at the same time, that it may likewise
be the means of improving the geography and hydrography
of the Arctic Regions, of which so little is hitherto known,
and contribute to the advancement of science and natural
knowledge.

" With this view, we have caused a great variety of valuable
instruments to be put on board the ships under your orders, of
which you will be furnished with a list, and for the return of
which you will be held responsible ; and have also, at the re-
commendation of the President and Council of the Royal So-
ciety, ordered to be received on board the Isabella, Captain

■^AT-^IKw^—

■!.!

1 !

I'!

II II

'I' li
ii il, i

OFFICIAL INSTRUCTIONS.

Sabine, of the Royal Artillery, who is represented to us as a gen-
tleman well skilled in astronomy, natural history, and various
branches of knowledge, to assist you in making such observations
as may tend to the improvement of geography and navigation,
and the advancement of science in general. Amongst other
subjects of scientific inquiry, you will particularly direct your
attention to the variation and inclination of the magnetic needle,
and the intensity of the magnetic force ; you will endeavour to
ascertain how far the needle may be affected by the atmospherical
electricity, and what effect may be produced on the electrometer
and magnetic needle on the appearance of the Aurora Borealis.
You will keep a correct register of the temperature of the air
and of the surface of the sea ; and you will frequently try the
temperature of the sea, in various situations, and at different
depths. You will cause the dip of the horizon to be frequently
observed by the dip sector invented by Doctor Wollaston ; and
ascertain what effect may be produced by measuring that dip
across fields of ice, as compared with its measurement across the
surface of the open sea. You will also cause frequent observa-
tions to be made for ascertaining the refraction, and what effect
may be produced by observing an object, either celestial or
terrestrial, over a field of ice, as compared with objects
observed over a surface of water ; together with such other me-
teorological remarks as you may have opportunities of making.
You are to attend particularly to the height, direction, and
strength, of the tides, and to the set and velocity of the currents ;
the depth and soundings of the sea, and the nature of the

tt***mtsarw*3mTxma^^

U. J LJi^U '

OFFICIAL INSTRUCTIONS.

bottom ; for which purpose you are supplied with an instrument
better calculated to bring up substances than the lead usually
employed for this purpose.

" For the purpose, not only of ascertaining the set of the
currents in the Arctic Seas, but also of affording more frequent
chances of hearing of your progress, We desire that you do,
frequently after you shall have passed the latitude of 65° North,
and once every day when you shall be in an ascertained current,
throw overboard a bottle, closely sealed, and containing a paper
stating the date and position at which it is launched ; and you
will give similar orders to the Commander of the Alexander, to
be executed in case of separation. And for this purpose, we
have caused each ship to be supplied with papers, on which is
printed, in several languages, a request that whoever may find
it should take measures for transmitting it to this office.

" And, although you are not to be drawn aside from the
main object of the service on which you are employed, as
long as you may be enabled to make any progress, yet,
whenever you may be impeded by ice, or find it necessary to
approach the coasts of the continent or islands, you are to
cause views of bays, harbours, headlands, fyc, to be carefully
taken, to illustrate and explain the track of the vessels, or such
charts as you may be able to make : on which duty, you will
be assisted by Lieutenant Hoppner, whose skill in drawing is
represented to be so considerable, as to supersede the necessity
of appointing a professional draughtsman.

" You are to make use of every means in your power, to collect

a ^N--r-i«o^Tvr^

OFFICIAL INSTRUCTIONS.

I!'!

Itlil

and preserve such specimens of the animal, mineral, and
vegetable kingdoms, as you can conveniently stow on board
the ships : and, of the larger animals, you are to cause accurate
drawings to be made, to accompany and elucidate the descrip-
tions of them. In this, as well as in every other part of your
scientific duty, we trust that you will receive material assistance
from Captain Sabine.

You are to use your best endeavours, and give instructions
to the same effect to Lieutenant Parry, to keep the two vessels
constantly together, and prevent their separation : if, however,
they should separate, you are to appoint Lerwick, in the
Shetland Islands, as the first rendezvous, and, after that,
Love Bay, Disco Island, in Davis' Strait ; beyond which, as
nothing is known, no other rendezvous can be appointed.
And in the event of any irreparable accident happening to
either of the ships, you are to cause the officers and crew of
the disabled ship to be removed into the other, and, with her
singly, to proceed in prosecution of the voyage, or return to
England, according as circumstances shall appear to require :
should, unfortunately, your own ship be the one disabled, you
are, in that case, to take the command of the Alexander : and,
in the event of your own inability, by sickness or otherwise, to
carry these instructions into execution, you are to transfer them
to the Lieutenant next in command, who is hereby required to
execute them in the best manner he can, for the attainment of
the several objects in view.

As, in all undertakings of this nature, several emergencies

?jr^i<»±<Hr^9^*..>*j*^*r^**^i, yy-fy ^T*^lw'fiWIM,fff'^^

!8>7r<EIBHi

OFFICIAL INSTRUCTIONS.

may arise, against which no foresight can provide, and no
specific instructions can be given ; you are, in all such cases,
to proceed in such a manner as you may judge to be most
advantageous to the service on which you are employed ; most
likely to advance the accomplishment of the various objects of
the expedition ; and most conducive to the security of the
ships, and the health, comfort, and safety, of your officers and
men.

" On your arrival in England, you are immediately to repair
to this office, in order to lay before Us a full account of your
proceedings in the whole course of your voyage : taking care,
before you leave the ship, to demand from the officers and
petty officers, the logs and journals they may have kept ; and
also from Captain Sabine, such journals or memoranda as he
may have kept ; which are all to be sealed up : and you will
issue similar directions to Lieutenant Parry and his officers ;
the said logs, journals, or other documents, to be thereafter dis-
posed of, as We may think proper to determine.

" His Majesty's Principal Secretary of State for Foreign
Affairs has been requested to apply to the courts of Russia,
Denmark, and Sweden, to issue orders to their respective sub-
jects, to afford any hospitality or assistance which these expe-
ditions may be in a situation to require and receive : the Court
of Russia has been particularly requested to give directions to the
authorities at Kamtschatka, for the safe conveyance of any
despatches you may intrust to them ; and the Courts of Den-
mark and Sweden have been requested to order any of their

^^^^v-^ ^?<r ^

Mil '

I! 1

OFFICIAL INSTRUCTIONS.

ships, whether national or private, which you may fall in with,
to treat you with amity, and to note carefully in their logs the
situations in which they may see any of His Majesty's ships.
You will, on your part, behave with cordiality and friendship
to any foreign vessels you may fall in with, or the authorities of
any port or place at which you may touch : and on all such
occasions, you will not fail to address to Our Secretary, for Our
information, a general account of your proceedings up to the
date at which the opportunity of conveying your despatch may

occur.

" Given under Our hands the 31st of March, 1818.

" MELVILLE.
" J. S. YORKE.
" GEO. HOPE.
" G. MOORE."

To
John Ross, Esq., Commander

of His Majesty's Sloop Isabella.

By Command of their Lordships,

J. W. CROKER.

^r^[v^?-<r>y»^»tt' ryvi

3"T-

-i.1 j, vm

VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY,

£$c. fyc.

^JN^Ar-VIK^^Mr,

!i! ii <

i Ml

ar^Lw^rr^^^^

nasRv

rrr

VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

CHAPTER I.

SAILING OF THE EXPEDITION FROM THE RIVEK ARRIVAL AT, AND

DEPARTURE FROM SHETLAND.

HAVING in the Introductory Observations detailed all that
appears necessary respecting the origin of our voyage to the
Arctic Regions, and paid a just tribute to the active zeal
and liberality shown by the several departments concerned
in the equipment of the ships destined for the expedition, I
proceed to lay before the Public an account of our progress
towards the main object of our enterprise — namely, the solution
of the long-agitated question, respecting the existence of a pas-
sage from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean, by way of Davis'
Strait and Baffin's Bay.

On the 18th of April, His Majesty's Discovery Ships Isabella
and Alexander, selected for this service, the former commanded
by myself, the latter by Lieutenant W. E. Parry, under my

.Ill I

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

m ,i

Wii.i.1

,u.ii

orders, dropped down to Galleons ; but, from the prevalence of
contrary winds while in the river, and our subsequent detention
at Sheerness, for the purpose of paying the crews an advance
of three months' wages, it was not until the 25th that our pilot
left us off Cromer.

The next day being Sunday, divine service was performed,
in which all joined ; and, I believe there was not a man who
did not indulge, after the fashion of a sailor, in the feeling that,
at this very outset of our voyage, its issue was placed in His
hands whose power is most visible in the Great Deep— a feeling
which many an occurrence, during our hazardous progress, most
fully justified.

On the 30th we reached Lerwick in Shetland, where our
operations may be said to have commenced. We found here
His Majesty's ship Ister, Captain Forrest, by whom we were
most kindly replenished in water and provisions. Here too we
were fortunate in acquiring the addition to our establishment of
an excellent violin player, who was discharged, at his own
request, by Captain Oliver, from the Prince of Wales revenue
cruizer, in order to join our expedition. I can truly say, that
the poor fellow's tuneful art tended to charm away the weari-
ness of many an hour, among those cheerless scenes which so
often presented little variety or amusement.

William Mouat, Esq., of Gardie, in Brassa Island, an old and
intimate friend, had been anxiously expecting us ; and, on our
arrival, hastened on board to offer the accommodations, which
his spacious mansion afforded, for our astronomers and their

ryjr^^rJ^^*r^r&i^^imy^iig^^^^^^^^-^

arrygK^a^»awatf7>gi

'ill |!|!

II il Hi''

N !

*»

?ATC

yv^g-v ^^^xw^^i^g^.. >^^>4- ^'^yrr^^^p^Mairr^ts^/tr

TO THE AECTIC REGIONS.

instruments. This offer, together with a hearty invitation to the
agreeable hospitality of his house, was most thankfully ac-
cepted ; and we accordingly landed, taking with us the clock,
dipping-needle and chronometers, and immediately began our
observations.

On the following morning, our first care was to erect the
portable observatory, fix the transit instrument, and measure
its elevation. Altitudes for time were obtained, and I was
gratified to find, by means of the chronometer, that the longitude
of Gardie agreed with the observations I had made on the same
spot in 1815.

This day the Dorothea and Trent, Discovery Ships, which
were to proceed by the east of Greenland for the Polar Passage,
arrived ; the latter in so leaky a condition as to render it neces-
sary to haul her on shore for repair.

Captain Forrest, of the Ister, performed the same good offices
for these ships as he had done for. those under my command; and'
afforded every other assistance in his power, till he was obliged
to leave us in obedience to his orders from the Admiralty.

In getting under weigh, the Ister dropped so near to the
shore that it became necessary to anchor again, and when
brought up she had only eighteen feet water under her stern.
Her signal for assistance was promptly answered by our boats,
and I had much satisfaction in witnessing the cool and zealous
conduct of the officers and men employed on the occasion ;
from whence I could fairly anticipate what their energies might
effect in situations of greater hazard, to which we ourselves

d 2

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

might be exposed, without the reach of neighbourly assistance.
Anchors were laid out, and the frigate was warped into a place
of safety ; but she was unable to proceed to sea until the day
after.

At noon the weather was so cloudy that we were disappointed
in our hopes of observing a transit ; and, during the rest of the
day, Lieutenant Parry and Captain Sabine were busily engaged
in making observations on the dip of the needle, and on the in-
tensity of the magnetic force; while others employed themselves
in searching for specimens of the animal, vegetable, and mineral
kingdoms on the island.

In the course of this day the Prince of Wales sailed, and by
her I sent letters, with an account of our proceedings thus far,
to the Secretary of the Admiralty.

On the following morning the packet arrived from Leith,
having on board, as a passenger, Doctor Hibbert ; from him we
received a visit, as also from Doctor Edmonstone, and several
friends, inhabitants of the island.

Observations on the dipping-needle and the clock were pur-
sued, but the weather again disappointed us of a transit; and,
the wind coming round to the South, I determined to sail on
the ensuing morning. Part of our apparatus was accordingly
embarked that evening, and a bullock (from its unusual bulk
known by the name of Matchless,) which the liberality of Mr.
Mouat had spared us, was taken on board our ship.

But I must not quit this scene of our early operations with-
out offering my testimony to the zeal displayed by Lieutenant

agrvL^^agi-ws^tfMroef mmw^m ^^^'^-g^rr^w^ ~ -■

c^?

jij ..up m

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

Parry, and Captain Sabine, who were engaged night and day in
pursuing every requisite inquiry :— nor were any idle. Messrs.
Skene, Ross, and Bushnan, were indefatigable in their exertions ;
— the two latter filled a portion of their leisure time in traversing
the island of Brassa, in search of curiosities and specimens of
natural history. A large piece of the back-bone of a whale,
which was brought with great pains to Gardie, under the idea
that it might possibly be part of the skeleton of a Mammoth
was a source of some mirth, but not such as to discourage future
activity in those pursuits.

Captain Sabine having brought off the rest of our instruments,
at day-light on the 3d of May, we prepared for sea ; and the
signal was made for sailing. At eight o'clock, A.M., we took
leave of the Dorothea and Trent ; and our two ships, with a
moderate breeze of fair wind, stood out of the North Channel.

After we were under sail, Mr. Mouat came on board, anxious
to assure us of his warmest Avishes for our success, and to brino-
us the latest farewell from his amiable lady on our departure.
It is impossible to express, in adequate terms, the high obliga-
tions we are under to these worthy friends ; a grateful recol-
lection must ever remain with us of their hospitality, of their
unremitted kindness, and the warm interest they took in the
success of our enterprise. It will be readily believed that we
did not part without regret, particularly as we were now on
the point of bidding adieu to the last vestige of our native
land, with a voyage of uncertain length before us ; and it was
not with hearts unmoved that we left these shores.

*k£

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

At noon we passed within Whalsey Island, and from thence
through the Sound of Yell, the wind favouring us in every wind-
ing of the channel ; and at three o'clock the Pilot, and bearer
of our farewell to families and friends in England, left us on the
wide waste of waters, fairly in the Atlantic Ocean.

'II !.|1

'I [

?X V.^ ^H^K.-.VV^SK,^^** >.S^tf ~<**i*=YlF*WfWT^^

■5?*^^^»

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS

CHAPTER II.

CONTINUATION OF THE VOYAGE— OLOF KRAMER'S SHOAL— EXISTENCE
OF THE SUNKEN LAND OF BUSS DOUBTED SIGHT OF THE FIRST ICE-
BERG ARRIVAL AT DAVIS' STRAIT OBSERVATIONS ON CHRONO-
METERS.

1 HE remainder of the 3d of May, and the several following
days, were not marked by any occurrences of moment as far as
regarded our ultimate operations, and will therefore be slightly
passed over.

We steered W.N.W. by the compass, from the rock of Stour
Holme, in order to make allowance for southerly winds, which
were to be expected in our course to Cape Farewell. General
orders (of which a copy is in the Appendix), relating to dis-
cipline, and the accomplishment of scientific objects, were issued
to both ships.

On the 4th we saw a strange sail, probably an American,
which passed to windward without noticing us.

The Isabella having run considerably a-head of her consort,
during a breeze that sprung up, almost approaching to a gale,
we hove to, when the weather moderated, and had leisure for

Mrt -y-",

IUlMl.1

ii liiji;
III

III !<|

II MM

. 'Ill

|| I'r

May 8.
Lat. 59° 28' N.
Long. 17° 22' W.

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

sounding, but found no bottom in one hundred and fifty
fathoms.

Some observations on the temperature of the air, and on the
specific gravity and temperature of sea-water, together with the
result of experiments made by the self-registering thermometer,
and on water drawn up by Sir Humphrey Davy's bottle, were
registered in the meteorological journal.

In the evening: of the 5th we communicated with the
Alexander, in order to share with the crew our friend Mr.
Mouat's bullock, and found she had shipped much water,
though, fortunately, without receiving any material damage.

Continuing our course, we came, on the 8th of May, to the
spot where a bank is laid down in Steel's chart, as discovered
by Olof Kramer, but we could find no soundings in one
hundred and thirty fathoms, any where on or near the place.

At this time, among other provisions of shelter against the
inclemency of higher latitudes, our carpenter was busied in
making what the sailors call a crow's nest. This is a kind of
hurricane-house, fixed at the mast-head, to screen the look-out
men from the weather; its form is cylindrical, and the entrance
through a trap-door at the bottom, on which the man within
stands.

From the 9th to the 16th our progress was much impeded by
contrary winds, generally from the west ; but being somewhat
variable, we took advantage of every occasion to make tacks.
There were few occurrences of consequence. We had, however,
during these days, many favourable opportunities of making

s^gtfe.iy.^wi^rgy.->?!»^g?'<r "

qnamp

«..L-^' # s«

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

observations on the variation of the compass and on the chro- May 16.

Long. 25° 55' W.

nometers, in which the two ships generally agreed pretty well. T* ne0

Tables of these observations, with others, arranged according
to dates, will be found in the Appendix.

Lieutenant Parry's hydrometer not being constructed so as
to give the specific gravity of water, he supplied the deficiency
by a very ingenious and accurate calculation of his own : but,
believing it might be done more easily by comparison, I sent
Captain Sabine on board the Alexander with my hydrometer,
and also with the azimuth and Jennings's compasses. I had
reason to believe that a difference which appeared on this
comparison, of at least three quarters of a point in the course
of the ships, must rest with the compasses, and therefore made
trial of several. I found that Jennings's insulated compass was
the medium between all.

At one o'clock P. M., on the 16th, a light breeze sprung up
from the eastward, and gradually increased. The barometer
rose. We steered at first N.W. by N. ; but finding our latitude
only 57° we altered our course to N.N.W.

The morning of Sunday, the 17th, broke delightfully, with
pleasant, clear, invigorating breezes. • Divine service was per-
formed, and a sermon read to the ship's company ; and the
division of the crew into three watches affording much leisure
time for reading, I distributed some religious tracts among the
men.

At noon we found ourselves exactly in the latitude of the
sunken land of Buss, as it is laid down in some charts, 57° 28' N.;

■

-- "i'k 'r-^rTiiirrrirT-^g^^^j^^^*^-^^ ;^»

II III. 1 1. I

1 1 :!'

A VOYAGE 01' DISCOVERY

May 17-
Lat. 57° 28' N.
Lone. 28° 20' W.

1 1,, \\>

and being desirous of determining whether such a bank really
existed in long. 29° 45', we altered our course, being then in
28° 20', to N.W., for the purpose of ascertaining the fact. We
made all sail a-head, kept a good look-out, with the lead
constantly going ; and, at sun-set, being near the spot, short-
ened sail, and hove to, in order to sound; but found no bot-
tom in one hundred and eighty fathoms. This was repeated
every four miles, with no better success ; and when the
Alexander came up with us, being then thirty miles past the
spot marked out for this sunken bank, we made sail, but kept
the lead constantly going.

The existence of this bank has long been doubted by the mas-
ters of Greenlandmen, and certainly it is not to be found where
laid down in the charts. Various stories respecting it were
related by people on board ; but it appeared, on comparing
their testimonies, that no soundings had ever been actually
found. I am more inclined to imagine, that when ships have
been struck in this quarter by heavy seas, the shocks have
erroneously been attributed to the sunken land of Buss.

Early next morning the weather Avas fair ; but about seven
o'clock the wind veered to the westward, and it grew hazy. We
continued our soundings, but without finding ground ; and held
on constantly in the same parallel of latitude. An uprooted
tree without branches, measuring three feet and seven inches in
length, was picked up. It appeared to have been long at sea,
and pieces of it were preserved.

May 19. This day the wind was fair, but the weather thick

?«.k^4rvr^^r»M&*«i^^ ^^^^^rKL^iif^m^n^

fr^sT/ f>£~^

■■9*

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

and unpleasant. Fearing that the ships might part in the fogs May 17.
that appeared then to set in, I made signal of my intention to Ta ' Q ~ „/

rr ' ° J Long. 34 00 W.

steer N.W. by N.

In the course of the day I received Lieutenant Parry's Weekly
Report, and found that his chronometers differed from ours,
giving twelve miles further East. His observations also of the
sun and moon, which had before agreed exactly, were twenty
miles west of our chronometers and lunar observations. From
the latter agreeing so much better with each other than his, I
was confirmed in my opinion of our accuracy.

The progress made in Captain Kater's altitude instrument
reflected great credit on the skill and perseverance of Lieutenant
Parry and Mr. Bisson ; but we never could succeed in observing
altitudes by the whirling horizon of Troughton.

A piece of blubber wTas picked up by the Alexander, belong-
ing probably, as its colour denoted, to a whale that had been
killed ; and Lieutenant Parry supposed, as it was too early in
the season to have come from a homeward-bound ship, that it
had drifted down Davis' strait, or between Iceland and Green-
land. It was, however, my opinion that it had remained on
some piece of ice, near Iceland perhaps, throughout the winter,
and was thus preserved in a frozen state, till a thaw took place,
probably not long before we saw it.

A difference in the variation on board the two ships was ob-
served this day; but it perhaps might be attributed to the influ-
ence of a spare anchor, stowed within a few feet of the compasses
in the Alexander.

e 2

ill M

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

I was anxious, in case of the two ships parting company, that
the track I intended to pursue should be known ; and I sent

notice to Lieutenant Parry as follows :

To pass the latitude of 58°. north in longitude 46°. west.
Ditto 59°. 52°.

Ditto 60°. 54of

Ditto 61°. 56°.

Ditto 62°. 57°.

in that longitude to make a north course until we reached
latitude 67° ; and then steer direct for Love Bay in Disco Island.
Each ship shewed a light this evening, and, with a little
management, continued to keep company very well.

During the four following days we experienced almost every
variety of weather. On the 20th we saw a cormorant, and a
bird much like a duck. Our sails received some damage in a
gale of wind on the 21st, which moderated the day after, and we
had clear weather.

Lat. ^T0^ n. °" the 2Sd We continued our course to the northward ; and
Long. 43° 21' w. though the atmosphere was again clouded we were able to pur-
sue our observations as usual. This evening I remarked the
appearance of a current, and the next day ascertained by hoist-
ing out our boat, that it set W.N.W. (true) running at the rate
of a quarter of a mile an hour.

ut. M5a7y443' n. We Pr0Ceeded on the ^ with a favourable breeze, which had
Long. 44° 32' w. been increasing since the night before, and fixed at seven in the

morning at S.E. All sail was set, and we went before the wind.

TheN.W. current was still manifest; but, beino- unwillihe to

!T~^T«

.-^>^^^s^5a,

TO THE ARCTIC RFGIONS.

delay our course, I did not try its strength, and contented
myself with committing to the waves, enclosed in a small copper
cylinder, one of the papers furnished by the Admiralty, contain-
ing a request in six European languages, that wherever found, the
time and place might be noted, and the contents of the vessel
sent to the Secretary of the Admiralty. The latitude and longi-
tude, and variation being inserted, it was carefully soldered in,
and thrown over-board, in latitude 58° 13' 38" North, longitude
46° 15' 45" West, with every chance of a long voyage.

Observations for the chronometers on the Atlantic Ocean and
the latitude were taken ; but it was too cloudy for lunar distances.
The ship being steady, we made observations by Lockwood's
dipping-needle. At seven o'clock having run forty-two miles since
noon, the Isabella had an offing of above one hundred miles from
the nearest part of Greenland. Altered the course to N.N.W.

At eight in the evening, the weather growing thick, with every
presage of a gale, we double reefed top-sails, and shortened
sail for the Alexander. I gave strict orders for the men to be
placed on the look-out, and hail every ten ninutes, as we were
passing up the straits where icebergs might be expected.

May 26. During the night our light had not been seen from the May 26.
Alexander, and she was far astern. We shortened sail till noon, ^at" 38o 36 N'

Long. 51 00' W.

when she came up with us. The course was altered to north, by
the wind, and we had opportunities of making observations for
the chronometers. The latitude agreed ; but we had been sent
by the current a few miles to the westward.

At two o'clock on this day, we had our first sight of an

^r-^^^^^

III I'1

1*1! tl

il »H"

1
II II !|.|!l

:H MM i

'li III ! lill'Jll

I! |

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

May 26".
Lat. 58° 36' N.
Long. 51° 00' W.

iceberg, covered with snow, bearing N.N.E., at a distance of
eight or nine miles. From a calculation made by means of
comparison between two objects, it appeared to be about forty
feet in height, and a thousand feet long.

Imagination presented it in many grotesque figures: atone
time it looked something like a white lion and horse rampant,
which the quick fancy of sailors, in their harmless fondness for
omens, naturally enough shaped into the lion and unicorn of the
King's arms, and they were delighted accordingly with the good
luck it seemed to augur. And truly our first introduction to
one of these huge masses, with which we were afterwards likely
to grow so familiar, was a sort of epoch in our voyage, that
might well excuse a sailor's divination, particularly Avhen the
aspect with which it was invested tended to inspire confidence,
and keep up the energies of the men ; a feeling so requisite for an
enterprise like ours, where even their curiosity might be chilled
for want of excitement.

It is hardly possible to imagine any thing more exquisite than
the variety of tints which these icebergs display; by night as well
as by day they glitter with a vividness of colour beyond the power
of art to represent. While the white portions have the
brilliancy of silver, their colours are as various and splendid as
those of the rainbow, their ever changing disposition producing
effects as singular as they were novel and interesting.

In the evening the weather was clear, and there was no ice
in sight from the mast-head. The thermometer fell at night
to 36°.

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

On the 27th, in the morning, I was enabled to take excel- May 27.
lent lunar observations, which agreed with our chronometers, T a n , *

' fe Long. 51° 18 W.

and also with observations which were taken by Lieutenant
Parry. On comparing my observations with his report, the
variation appeared to be 48° with the ships' heads north.

The Alexander's chronometers not agreeing by about thirty
miles with ours, Lieutenant Parry was dissatisfied with them,
and determined to give them new rates from the 1st of June.

May 28. The weather thick and cloudy, Kut not enough to
conceal several icebergs which appeared in sight. We had a
fine steady breeze, and smooth water, till eight in the evening,
when the wind changed to the southward, and continued in that
quarter all the night.

We kept the Alexander near us, and carried sail most proper
for manoeuvring to avoid ice, should we fall in with any in
the haze, or during the night.

Another copper cylinder, with a detail of our situation, was
despatched in latitude 6l° N., and longitude 53° 25'. It was
thrown overboard near a very large iceberg, which we passed
at nine P.M. It apparently drifted to the westward, though we
could perceive no current.

There was so little darkness during any part of this night?
that features of people on the forecastle were distinctly visible
from the quarter-deck. At three in the morning (29th) it began
to snow, and continued falling through the day- We saw little
ice : indeed, the thickness of the weather limited our view to
about two miles round us, and prevented our taking an observa-

arivt^«rr»!*wgtf ■ >^

Mi1'

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

May 31. tion. About one P.M. the Alexander made a signal for an ice-

Lat. 63° 53' N. . „ , . , _ . . _

Long. 550 03' w. berS ^^ but we could not dlscern ll through the falling snow.
Sunday, May 31. Several floes of ice were seen, chiefly in a
state of decajr : the large iceberg, however, which we had passed
was entire. It consisted, apparently, of three strata, the upper-
most of indurated snow, the rest was opaque, except a bluish
transparent vein, which intersected it horizontally: it presented
on one side a precipice about eighty-five feet high from the
water, gradually declining to about fifteen feet : the circumfe-
rence was about twelve hundred feet, and, except at the snowy
top, it had much the appearance of limestone, with the peculiar
brightness before described. This day the church service was
performed, and a sermon read, as usual. Something like land
was seen in the evening, but without distinctness. Temperature
of the air 28°, of the water at the surface 32°.

Being the last day of the month, I made preparations for
summing up all the comparisons of the different chronometers,
in order to determine their rates for the ensuing month. The
results were as follows :— Earnshaw's, No. 1,024, which had
been daily compared with six others, was found to continue
gaining, at its original rate, one second each day on mean time
for the month of May. This had been proved by observations
at Shetland, and from several sets of lunar observations, taken
by different persons on board the Isabella and Alexander; and
it agreed also with the mean of the seven chronometers. Its
original rate, therefore, of one second per day, was considered
to be established, and carried to the month of June. In like

■ ■ ii i > i i .

BiHfe

sar^CT

.±.*--l!V\ «.J-J"J«

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

manner, Earnshaw, No. 815, was found to increase its rate from
54" to one second each day. Arnold's chronometer, No. 369,
was found to be fast of mean time at Greenwich, 12' 18", and
to be gaining 5" 5"' per day. Parkinson's and Frodsham's,
No. 228, was found to have kept, during May, a steady rate
of 12" 5'" a day, and to be fast of Greenwich 9' 24". Arnold's
No. 25, when compared with Earnshaw's two chronometers, and
the means of the rest, and also with the result of lunar observations,
was found to have preserved a steady rate of 4" per day, and
to be 1' 10" fast of mean time at Greenwich. All these, resting
on equal proofs, were respectively allowed for in the following
month. Arnold's pocket chronometer, probably from its glass
being broken, had not settled to any rate ; but having been
repaired, I began to wear it in my pocket at this time. Thus
ended the month of May.

SPSS

-£JKO>S35c7»5;

^^^^^5S^^J255?SF

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

CHAPTER III.

PROGRESS OF THE VOYAGE UP THE STRAITS SUNDRY OBSERVATIONS

INTERCOURSE WITH THE NATIVES DIFFICULTIES IN THE ICE

LARGE ICEBERGS ARRIVAL AND DETENTION AT WAYGATT.

June i. June 1 . DURING this day we had, for the most part, moderate
Tat i!lw weather and cloudy: but towards evening it fell quite calm,

Long. 55° 42 VV. J "

and became beautifully serene. The variation, with the ship's
head N.E. by E., was found to be about 58° West.

I brought my calculations on the rates of the chronometers to
account. Next day we had light variable breezes, with some
falls of snow and rain. Every advantage was taken of the wind
when fair, and early in the day we fell in with a stream of loose
ice. Towards noon we discovered much field ice to the North,
and altered our course to avoid it. We were obliged to tack
twice to get clear of the outermost floe, and at nine in the even-
ing had passed through a stream of it, at which time the wind fell.
The Alexander was far astern, and with difficulty cleared the ice.

Some birds of the peterel kind, and a few little auks were
shot. We also saw several seals, and a bottle-nosed whale.

In the former part of the day, about noon, being then in
latitude 65° and longitude 56° 30, a paper in the several lan-

IWta

■*-

ihaaj.u iMom9j.u j i imjg*3r*

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

guages before mentioned, and describing our situation, was June i.
enclosed in a bottle, and dropped into the sea ; for the pur- tfQg. % % w'.
pose, as was explained on it, "of determining the current
" from Davis' Stait : var. 57° West, the water smooth, and no per-
'- ceptible current; several icebergs and pieces of loose ice
seen near the place; and no soundings in four hundred and
" fifty fathoms : Alexander in company, steering N.E. by E.
" by compass/'

It was erroneously imagined that we had been set West by a
strong current since the morning, and the boat was hoisted out to
ascertain the fact, but no effect of a current was apparent ; and
we afterwards discovered that the idea originated in the ob-
servers having read off a wrong degree from the sextant, in the
afternoon's altitudes for the chronometers.

The day following we had a fresh breeze against us. Snow
still fell, and it was extremely cold. Barometer 29° 47'. Ther-
mometer in the air 29° ; in the water 31°.

At one P.M. we saw land south of Coquin s Sound, where
Baffin was said to have landed on his return from his last voyage.
It bore from E. by N. to South, being about fifty miles distant,
according to the judgment of the master, who had frequently seen
it ; though I thought it not more than thirty-eight miles. We
tacked and sounded in forty-five fathoms, about forty miles
from the shore. Several large icebergs were passed this day ;
and at two P.M. we threw over-board a paper similar to the last.
The variation, per Azimuth, was 67° West.
June 4. The wind, from being moderate, became squally at
noon. We tacked to avoid the field-ice, and standing E.S.E.

f 2

■

>^»r>»5S^Vfc3K

5^^s^^>7^^^5^^55?5^S^^^V!

J'liU

ss^s^Rs^snss

in*"

36'

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

June 4.
Lat. 65° 42' N.
Long. 54° 54' W.

had no soundings, but discovered land from East to S.E. about
fifty-five miles distant. We then sounded and found bottom in
seventy fathoms. We saw a large iceberg to the W.S.W.
a-ground. At two P.M., when we thought ourselves about forty-
five miles from land, we sounded in fifty fathoms; and the mud
machine brought up a piece of coral. Another copper cylinder,
with despatches, was thrown over-board this day. There could
be no current, for the ship, notwithstanding she made a point and
half lee-way, gained a few miles to windward. As the difference,
however, between the larboard and starboard tacks, during four
hours, was only nine points and a half, I had reason to believe
that the deviation from the real variation of the compass on each
tack was considerable; and therefore I made a signal at five P.M.
to the Alexander, to observe Azimuths with the ship's head in dif-
ferent directions. The result (see Appendix) proved my supposi-
tion to be correct ; namely, that when the variation is great, the
deviation which is more or less in every ship, will increase in no
settled proportion, but will be governed by so many causes, that
no surer method of ascertaining the course really steered can be
adopted, than that of observing the actual variation at the time,
according to the course in which the ship is steered. I there-
fore allowed six points for standing to the North and West ;
and four points and a half for standing East and South.

His Majesty's birth-day was celebrated with the usual cere-
mony of hoisting colours and flags, but it blew too fresh for
saluting.

During the night the wind freshened very considerably, and
continued to blow through the early part of the next day. Se-

UMi

1*H

aj^u j i kJBnn

i, ,

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

veral enormous icebergs were seen to leeward and a few to June 4.
windward. We had to tack again this day, to escape falling in Lat' 65° 42 N'

° r ° Long. 54° 54' W.

with the field-ice. At noon, in longitude 55°, 10', by chrono-
meter, land was seen at the distance of about sixty miles. The
Isabella had a narrow escape in attempting to weather a piece
of ice, which we just bore up for in time, and, as good fortune
would have it, we received no other injury than a slight graze on
our weather bow.

Having this day gained three miles in latitude, it seemed evi-
dent that there could be no current ; which appeared surprising,
as the wind had blown for three successive days directly down
the Straits,

At one P.M., land was descried, about forty-five miles South of
Queen Anne's Cape ; consisting of mountains like those on the
coast of Norway, which might be seen at a distance of sixty or
seventy miles. The weather being clear, we had good observa-
tions for our chronometers this day : as also for the dip of the
horizon by the dip-sector; which we found to be less by
4' 14 than in Rio's Tables.

I gave orders that in future, when an iceberg or any remark-
able object was seen, it should be exactly set by the compass
immediately before and after tacking.

The following day my orders were carried into effect, with re-
spect to a large iceberg, which was seen as we were standing in
towards a stream of ice, the main ice being visible at a distance.
Before we tacked, at 2 P.M., the berg bore N. by E., but
immediately after N. by W., thus shewing the amount of the

■

it..\i-^u^.}!i<j±mi^u&

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

June 5.
Lat. 65° 46' N.
Long. 55° 10' W.

deviation of the compass to be equal to two points. We had to
encounter with ice several times in the course of the day. In
the evening, ice was seen extending from S.E. round to S.W.,
and as far as N.W. We tacked close in with it, and observed,
that when our ship's head was North by the compass, a hum-
mock of ice rising in the field bore North ; but when her head
was about E.S.E., the same hummock bore N.W.|W., making
a difference of three points and a half, Avhich could only have
been occasioned by the local attraction of the iron in the ship.
Soft green mud was brought up on sounding in three hundred
fathoms, during a calm, at seven o'clock. A boat was anchored
to try for a current, but none was perceptible.

From Lieutenant Parry's report, the Alexander's chronometers
appeared to have gone at a more steady rate than heretofore. A
deviation of two points in the Alexander's compasses was sup-
posed to have been occasioned by the side lamps having iron in
their construction.

A bottle was this day thrown overboard, containing a paper
with the usual remarks. The variation by azimuth, with the
ship's head East, was 59° 30' West.

At midnight the wind came round from the North to S.W.,
and we steered N.E. by E., allowing five points variation, to
make our course true North.

At eight in the morning, Sunday the 7th, several pieces of
ice were in sight.

The day was marked with the customary observance of
divine worship.

"fl frf — :irLk_CiirZ*Ji'"

HBRW

... - -' J HP!

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

During the forenoon we fell in with a stream of ice, which June 7.
obliged us to steer E. by N. At half past four we had much Lat 66° 22' N'

0 r Long. 56° 37' W.

difficulty in weathering a point of fixed ice ; we succeeded,
however, by means of pushing through several streams and packs
of heavy ice, in the midst of a considerable swell that added
to the danger of our situation. A gale then came on, and we
close-reefed topsails. The land was seen about eleven, bearing
S.E. by E., at a distance of forty miles ; and at midnight we
sounded in fifteen fathoms, when I judged we were about seven
leagues from the Savage Islands. There was the appearance of a
tide, but as it blew hard we had no opportunity of trying its strength.

On the 8th we had strong gales, and cloudy weather, steering
various courses along the land, to avoid ice and bergs. We con-
tinued to proceed northward, and, at four, made out the Romel
Port and Savage Islands. Though we were in fifteen fathoms
for four hours, the master thought the land was distant twenty-
five miles. At nine, seeing fixed ice from the mast-head extend-
ing from the land, we hauled to the northward by compass, that is,
making a West course, and steered between the grounded ice-
bergs, among packs and streams of ice. One of the icebergs was
three hundred and twenty-five feet high, and twelve hundred
feet in length ; a torrent of water was running down its side.

Towards noon thick weather came on, and at two we
stood to the Southward, in order to avoid the fast ice, which
we found extending from S.E., by N.E. to N.W. Before this
we had seen Wild Islands, with other land, which we took for
Kirby's Island.

<^at y^/y 5>^>^k<. j- a

&^zsr^!&^2F*Z5^gr^KmBB9mtm

^C^^B^^S3^

,Sr5SZZFH!ZmgT

in i '
ii.,,|

.func 8.
Lat. 68°10'N.
Long. 57° 26' W.

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

During the whole of this day we were plying among drift
ice. In the evening we had moderate weather.

I pursued my observation of objects before and after tacking,
and found a deviation in the compass of three points in the
morning, and two and a half in the evening. At eleven at night,
after a fall of snow, the weather cleared up ; and the master
being of opinion that there was no passage, except close to the
Greenland coast, we made sail and pushed through drift ice
making an E. by N. course, as near to the land as the ice
would allow.

June 9- The weather continuing moderate, we ran by the
edge of the fixed ice, sailing along it till we approached the land,
where we found it closely joined ; and no water being to be seen
over it from the mast-head, we made fast to an iceberg of con-
venient height. This iceberg was aground near two small
islands, which we supposed to lie off North Bay. The weather
proving fine and clear, and deeming it expedient to go on shore,
I directed Lieutenant Parry, and the Alexander's officers, to
bring their instruments on the iceberg; where we all took
excellent observations.

Some native Eskimaux came off to us, and we learnt from
them that this berg had remained aground in the same place
since the last year. They also informed us, that the ice was
close all the way from thence to Disco, and that no ship had
yet got up thither. We made our informers several presents ;
hoping, in return, that they would bring off some supplies of
water-fowl, #c, for the ships' crews.

.» .■ ■ -r^ ^ ^ f ..

lA-.-t1* V -^'J is

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

The two ships were swung in opposite directions, to ascertain June 9.

Lat 68°22'15'N

the difference between the compasses on board at each point, Loncr 33<>4g 45»w
with those on the iceberg.

Various stones, and a stratum of gravel, were found on the
iceberg, specimens of which were collected.

Several rare birds also were killed on it, and the skins pre-
served.

An account of the observations we made in this place will be
found, among the rest, at the end of the volume.

During the night we ascertained the rise and fall of water to
be four feet in neap tides ; and the currents about half a mile
an hour on flood and ebb : the ebb setting to the south two
hours before high water. The iceberg was neaped four feet
but there were marks of the water having reached four feet
higher.

At midnight I had the latitude by the altitude of the sun,
68° 23' ; that is, only one mile north of the truth, though the
altitude was but 1° 32'.

Early in the morning I took the necessary measures for
surveying the place more exactly. The officers, who had been
sent to sound and take angles for this purpose, found a harbour,
and an excellent road, within the nearest island ; but, the
ice happening to move from the N.E., the boats were recalled
and we cast off from the berg to avoid being beset. A main
body of ice appeared to stretch off from the land westward.

Disco was seen for a time from the summit of the iceberg,
but was soon obscured in a fog.

^^5?^^B?55?y^r?5^5ff^^5!ff3S^^^"l"^HP>^S

VWV

*^^^^^T^^^jy^5

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

June 10.
Lat. 68° 22' N.
Long. 53° 46' W.

¥\-

As we stood off to the westward, I sent Captain Sabine,
Lieutenant Parry, and Mr. Ross, to get the meridian altitude,
by an artificial horizon, from an iceberg, which bore nearly-
due west from the other. This was obtained, and agreed with
our midnight latitude, as well as those taken on board.

The weather thickened, and after running three miles south,
we discovered a channel of clear water stretching to the west.
We forced the ship through the intervening ice, and got into
it ; and continued all day and night beating to windward,
through numerous pieces of ice, which were all drifting to the
north and south by the tide. The weather was moderate, but
foggy, and in the evening cloudy.

Next day the weather continued moderate, and, seeing no
clear water to the northward, we bore up under all sail to the
westward. A seal, weighing eight hundred and fifty pounds,
which yielded thirty gallons of oil, was shot. A description of
this animal, among other subjects appertaining to natural
history, will be found in another place.

At noon we fell in with several ships employed in the whale
fishery ; one belonging to Dundee, the rest to Hull. They had
all been successful. From the master of one of these ships, the
Brunswick of Hull, we gained intelligence that he had been in
the bay to the westward of Disco ; where, according to the chart,
there is " good anchorage/' He had also seen Hare Island, and
conjectured there was a good deal of clear sea about it. He had
got into and out of South-East Bay, between two floes of ice.
The whole bay between Dog and Whale Islands was covered

«k

-«r 1 €\ ■

uUUsuJ^i %m

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

with ice. The governor of the Whale Islands had informed him, June 12.
that the ice had broken up, and froze again, no less than three T ,.„.,, «_,*.»„,

r' o ' Long. 54 1.5 45 W

times this season. He had not seen James's Island. He
thought that the sea north of Disco might, before the time of
our conference, have been clear, and that a passage to the North
along the eastern shore was feasible. This ship had only that
morning got clear of the ice, in which she and several others
had been pent up for fourteen days, and they left four still beset.

This fleet of whalers was running through the channel from
whence we had come, in hopes of finding a passage.

Our ships stood on a little, more to the west, and then to
the south ; but, finding the ice firm, we tacked, and returned
towards our old position, which alone appeared to be clear of
ice.

At midnight, the weather being very thick, the Isabella was
made fast to an iceberg, and the Alexander hauled alongside.

The next morning we had some good azimuths, and had
the sun's altitude by reflection on the iceberg ; but, as it
acquired motion when the wind freshened, it became of no use
to us. From the mate of one of the whalers, called the
Venerable, who came on board with a chronometer for the
Greenwich time, I learnt that his vessel had also been in Disco
Bay, with others, some of which were still beset in the ice.
He did not think any vessel had succeeded in getting to the
north of Disco.

At 3, P. M., it became somewhat clearer; and a breeze
springing up from north-east, we cast off from the iceberg, and

g 2

|M|»

• ""

■

r^r y?K^y -V><ir<;->^

fcg»e»csrf- frzyg>H>aSaC . >^J>iNisa

gwsg^aBgij iijljwp

"SSSS^TfTS^^ReT

nil »wM

June 13.
Lat. 68° 28' N
Long. 54° 13' W

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

sailed to windward among pieces of heavy ice. At four o'clock,
we saw the five whalers which had gone to the eastward, ten
miles North of the place where we had been: finding no
passage, they were returning to the pool in which we then
were.

At seven, it grew quite clear; and the island of Disco was
plainly seen bearing E. by N., and we saw seven ships beset
by ice, in South-East Bay. The ice appeared open to the
north-east; and then seemed to turn towards tlie part of South
Bay wThere these ships were lying.

I buried a bottle, inclosing remarks, in an iceberg, ascer-
tained to be in latitude 68° 15" north, longitude 54° 10" west.

The following day we were continually working through
quantities of pack ice : some of the pieces being full half an
acre in dimensions, and drawing from five to ten fathoms water.
Other smaller pieces were so pushed together, as to leave large
holes and interstices among them ; and through these we were
constantly obliged to tack, warp, and tow the ships along,
while the six strangers were employed in the same way.

About eleven we got into clear water, having passed the bar
of broken ice which extended westward from the land be-
tween Savage and North-bay Islands, to the field, or fast ice.
At noon, the centre of Disco Island bearing N.E., we had clear
weather and clear water as far as could be discerned from the
mast-head. Afterwards we had fresh breezes of adverse
wind, and in the evening the weather was foggy. Signal guns
were fired for the Alexander, which was not in sight.

^^ -i — an in-

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

A weak tide appeared to be setting out of and in Disco Bay. June i4.
June 14. The morning was foggy; but at five o'clock it

cleared away.

In the afternoon we hoisted our colours and pendant, in com-
pliment to the Danish flag on Whale Islands. It fell calm as we
passed close to them. A gun was fired from the Isabella, when
the Governor, Inspector Flushe, a respectable looking young
man, a native of Norway, came on board ; from him we learnt
that the late winter had been unusually severe, the sea being
frozen near his station early in December, when it was generally
frozen about the middle of February. Lovebay, called by the
Danes God Hauben, and also Waygatt Strait, were still frozen : he
had been resident in Greenland eleven years, and had remarked
that the severity of the cold increased ; he said that he had
heard from the Esquimaux, that, on a clear day, land could be
seen from the tops of the hills on the opposite side of the straits,
near Woman's Islands. They had this year been reduced to
great distress for provisions, and had been obliged to kill dogs
for food ; this was owing to the impossibility of procuring seals
during the winter for the Esquimaux to live on. I thanked him
for his information, told him of the object of our voyage, and,
having made him presents of vegetables and liquor, he took his
leave of us, and we stood to the westward.

Whale Island, called by the Danes Kron Prins Island, is in
lat. 63° 54' and long. 53° 30', and has a good harbour with three
channels into it. The inhabitants are the governor, his wife
and children, six Danes, and a hundred Esquimaux, who are

Long. 53 4.9' 45" W

- >v».~r,4r »it^c . j>^^

*^^<*s;-*"T5»5^^2p>J^^^^^>55^5y^!?^^^PJE5

^^^^^^^^SS^^?^S|5^^^5

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

June 14. employed during the season to catch seals and whales, but they

Lat. 68° 42' 45" N. , , , „ , . , .

t .-...rf.^m had not taken any or the latter this season.

Long. 53 49 45 W J

We kept under these islands till the. tide, which ran about
a knot and a half an hour, changed in our favour. At eight
in the evening, a fresh breeze rose, and we stood to the
west ; there was a considerable swell from the N.E. ; we
sounded in one hundred fathoms, half a mile south of Whale
Islands.

The day after we worked with all sail northward ; Disco
was in sight ; and no ice except the bergs were to be
seen.

A current was found here, running south (true), a quarter
of a mile an hour. In the afternoon we boarded several
Greenlandmen, and learnt that none of their ships had been
able to penetrate further north than 70° 30, and that we
should fall in with ice in two hours, through which we might
sail as far as Hare Island, where it became a solid body.

At six we fell in with loose ice, and continued sailing
through it. Firm ice was seen westward.

We proceeded next day, steering along the edge of the
main ice ; a firm field stretching from north to south ; we
sailed on between large floes and among loose ice, which, as we
advanced, became more numerous, and more closely packed,
till at length we had only a narrow and crooked channel
for our passage.

At eight we saw a ridge of icebergs, of every variety and
shape that can be imagined ; I took sketches of some, and

■rtr.-E ri— jfi-h tn «— r ■■«■"•

— PT!ET-m. J Vl^f

•

i .,

*^i r-^^v , r.*^ar -y^-^yy >^^<.' >s

^3*F£!E*r>J.JL \s3~**Ul \sEr-&*r^m*^ms&E&**'*J&Qr

*^2^^^T55|SC^!5

- >"

;;i:

I."

i£

e£

is;

■^

?J* ift!9,<J!Jl IMW41W \J. J , !UE^r

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

they also appear in the plate which is given of our passage June 17.
among them. Lat- 70° 43' N<

& Long. 57° 3' W.

Waygatt, or Hare Island, was now bearing east of us;
or, by compass S.E. by S.

No water could be seen at the mast-head either west
or north ; we therefore hauled our wind, and, in company
with our stranger whalers, stood for Waygatt Straits. At
eight in the evening our two ships were made fast to an
iceberg, about one mile from the true N.E. side of the
island. I went ashore, and, ascending the mountain, had a
complete view of our situation.

We found here forty-five ships employed in the whale
fishery, all detained by the ice ; and as there appeared to be
little chance of our getting further for some days, I deter-
mined to turn our detention to the best account, and pre-
pared for making observations on shore, for which purpose
I ordered our observatory and instruments to be landed,
and erected tents for Lieutenant Parry, Captain Sabine, and
Mr. Ross.

On the 18th, our arrangements being completed, I went
on shore at noon to take the sun's transit ; but, as the result
of all the observations will appear at length in the Appendix,
it is only necessary to say here, that the latitude was de-
termined to be 70° 26' 17", the longitude 54° 51' 49", and the
variation 72° 9' 28" west at the observatory, making a differ-
ence of five degrees in longitude, and thirty miles in latitude,
from the situation as laid down in the Admiralty charts.

a ytswag.i-viwu«Kr>a^gff ■ >'^<3

S^5£^^>!

'AS^>£SdC

"\>i^i* ,\££*isr*immmmm

wm*

j3iK>^^-<-s.:,

^^^^^^TTR'^^TS^T^

■* 44411

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

HHIHfll

June is. Here then we rested, having within our view from the

at. 702 7 'mountain, land stretching to the N.E. A N. by compass;

Long. 54 51 49 W ° J *

Jacob's Bight, bearing E. by N. ; the Waygatt, Four Island
Point, and Disco S.W. by S.j and the North Point of Hare
Island N. by E., forming a semi-circle from the land north
of Waygatt to the wall of ice westward ; with at least
seven hundred icebergs in sight. Pools of excellent water
were found on the iceberg to which we "rere attached, from
which the ships were supplied. While on shore, parties were
occupied in collecting specimens of natural history, and in
making geological researches.

I received much useful information from Mr. Muirhead,
Master of the Larkins, who, in his last voyage, had been in
75° 15' N., and two hundred miles only from the land. He
thought that our only chance of proceeding northward, depended
on keeping close in with the land ; and that if we kept to the
westward it would be almost impossible to effect our object.

During our stay here, the iceberg to which our ships were
fastened, suddenly got afloat, and was carried with great
rapidity toward the west ; it soon, however, grounded again, and
the Alexander remained attached to it, not having followed our
example in laying hold of another more secure, which we were
drifting past.

The weather here was hot and sultry.

\\\ r ■■

■JUUUL A I JUHHnHPH«9

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

CHAPTER IV.

DEPARTURE FROM WAYGATT — PERILOUS PROGRESS THROUGH THE ICE

TO UNKNOWN ISLAND PASS THE SECOND AND THIRD BARRIERS OF

ICE A BEAR ON THE ICE ACCIDENT TO THE MASTER OF A WHALER

FROM THE ATTACK OF ONE OF THESE ANIMALS MELVILLE'S MONU-
MENT, AND MELVILLE BAY DISCOVERED — HARPOONING A WHALE.

WE continued in our several occupations at Waygatt till L ^og'^'N
the 20th of June; and in the evening of that day, the iceL°ng-54«5i' w.
having loosened considerably, we determined to cast off from
the iceberg, and use every effort to get forward, which we
effected by dint of labour, all hands with the boats being
employed in towing and warping the ships among packs of
ice, through which it was frequently necessary to cut a passage.
Many of the whalers followed our example.

At two the following morning we were again completely
beset, and carried South-East by the tide ; but, after several
hours, we managed to proceed slowly by warping, until
eight o'clock, when we were again beset, and carried North-
West; the boats were then hoisted up, and Sunday service
performed. In the afternoon we made fruitless efforts to

i> 1
i I

55^^^^>>5^T3^T5^^!^^^5W!!ff^H^S^^^^!9^

ZS»Efe!"*.<-C,-

^^^^nr^^SnSS

l<'l' Uilil

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

:il !

June 22.
Lat. 70° 35' N.
Long. 54° 25' W.

pursue our course, being carried to and fro by the tide,
surrounded with heavy ice, in which the Isabella underwent ex-
treme pressure ; and the Alexander, which had escaped to the
shore north of Waygatt, was there hemmed in.

The next morning, at four, a light breeze sprung up from
the South-East, and the ice separating a little, we made all
sail in order to force through the masses; all the while
warping, tracking, and cutting ; and at length we succeeded
in getting into a channel which led to the North. The
Alexander was in company, and at four o'clock we arrived
at Four Island Point, where we found the whalers, which
had headed us, now stopped by the ice. Here we took
advantage of an iceberg, and made fast to it.

I landed, and ascended a hill, but nothing except solid ice
was to be seen.

There is here a sort of Danish factory, and some wretched
Eskimaux huts, all apparently deserted. We also visited a
burying-place, in which we met with the surgeon of a Green-
land ship procuring human skulls.

During the night it grew foggy, and at high water the ice-
berg, to which we were moored, got afloat, and drifted to
the West ; it was carried among the floes with great violence
by the tide, which was running two miles an hour.

At eleven, we found the easterly wind had somewhat
cleared away the ice, and when the tide suited, we were
towed in a calm about four miles, and there moored to an-
other berg.

*****

■ • ■ i, I ' E : , k I

-JUL S>5-^£ a,^JL V**m^ZSS^*mGPS&^^tt^^M<L^&^

111 III

in::

MMUMIki

.,-,

l*»J!/jl»«!^4lJP_i^M:A JfA^-^l J^J-^P

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

Some traces of reindeer were discovered on the shore.

June

June 24. As soon as the tide became in our favour this morning, Lat' 70°

&' Long. 54

and the ice appeared open for a few miles, we cast from
the iceberg, and re-commenced our labour of towing; all
boats were out, and we proceeded along shore, the Master
at the mast-head keeping a sharp look out for rocks. The
ice obliged us to pass on within a musket-shot of the shore,
and close upon some sunken rocks.

At one o'clock, when both ships were in a very dangerous
passage, a light wind from the North-West put the ice sud-
denly in motion ; in spite of every exertion, the Isabella was
driven into sixteen feet water, and the Alexander was, for
a few minutes, actually aground.

The whalers, which were astern, sent their boats and aided,
by every means in their power, the exertions of our own men
to free the ships from this perilous situation, which was
accomplished by running hawsers out to the nearest berg,
and heaving the ships through the besetting ice. The conduct
of the Masters of the Egginton, Brothers, Ingria, and Thornton,
all of Hull, was highly meritorious, and they received, as they
deserved, our acknowledgments for their ready services. The
first-named of these ships having headed us, was persevering
in her course, when she was of a sudden beset by a large
floe of ice, and carried on shore ; we had then an opportunity
of making a return for the kindness we had experienced, and
assisted in liberating her.

For the remainder of the day we continued fixed to an ice-

ii 2

»N*ug. .V5mV4 *,^»a. .pgw^p^g^^ij \\ju§.i\

HHbSSC^BS^SSP^^^JKC^S

I [I I!

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

!«l

June 25.
Lat. 70° 44' N.
Long. 54° 20' W.

berg, together with about thirty other ships, all anchored in
safety within pistol-shot of the shore. I sent a boat to the land
with persons to collect specimens of natural history ; our
situation was then eight miles North of Four Island Point.

Next day the ice appeared around us in a compact body,
and no clear water was to be seen from the top of the
mountain under which we were moored. The people had some
rest, which was much wanted after the incessant fatigues of the
several preceding days.

We found that a serious accident had happened on board
the Ariel whaler, a boat belonging to her having been crushed
by the ice against the ship's side, by which one of her crew
was killed, and another much hurt.

On the following morning the ice was in motion. About nine
o'clock we were towed to an iceberg two miles east of our former
position, and there made fast, letting the ice drive by us.
Though it was dead calm where we were, there was evidently
a strong breeze in a bay within three miles of us; and at one
o'clock, it appearing possible to warp through the ice, we cast
off from the berg, and at half-past four, by dint of labour,
succeeded in getting into the steady breeze ; it was so strong
that we could only carry single-reefed topsails ; we tacked
occasionally, and continued working to N.N.E. (S.E. by
compass) till midnight, when we found ourselves close to
land-ice near Unknown Island, so called by the Danes.

At half-past one, the Isabella was the farthest North of the
forty-one sail, but she was soon impeded by falling in with

tigkJLJUl&*SaF-,.%g~Ml& J,J^U !r»«^^H«PP^«

KJ JP

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

a compact body of ice reaching from North to West. We June 29.

Long. 54° 10' W

moored, together with twenty other ships, to a field of ice which

joined with part of Unknown Island.

This morning we had good lunar observations : three sets
of mine agreed within a mile of each other, and within 1' 15" of
the chronometers ; we had also eight sets of azimuths, by
Kater's compasses on the ice, distant from the ships, and
eight sets on board. The ship's head was turned four points
at each set till she had been round the compass. The result
is shewn, with other observations, in the Appendix.

It was the opinion of the Masters of the neighbouring
whalers, that the first breeze of Easterly wind would destroy
the ice, and enable us to proceed to the North. Mr. Lawson,
of the Majestic, who possesses great local knowledge of the
coast, recommended., as our only chance of getting North-
ward, that we should keep between the ice and Greenland ;
he promised to follow us as far as he could to bring home our
despatches.

The following day, Sunday, the crews attended service,
and the whole twenty-four hours were spent in sailing about
a basin of ten miles in circumference.

On Monday, the weather being moderate, I ordered theEski-
maux, John Sackheuse, who had accompanied the expedition
from England, as interpreter, to go on shore and communicate
with the natives.

Lieutenants Parry and Robertson, with other officers, re-
paired, by my directions, on board the ship Eagle, of Hull,

, ;

3S3353rMT5T

a. j^*,.a \*

WF*

•ii-£>^Vs-"C. X>L^C>*

Ll:,V^-f^LV3

i""MI

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

. 1 1 .in'

June 29. to inquire into the circumstances of an outrage charged

Lat. 70° 54' N

Long. 54° 10' W.

upon her crew, of burning a Danish factory at Four Island
Point.

It appeared from their report, that two seamen of the Eagle,
in a fit of intoxication, had set fire to one house, and were pre-
vented by the boat's crew of another vessel from committing a
like outrage upon a second. Some stores were found on board the
Eagle, which the Commander protested he had taken on board
for the purpose of giving them up to one of the settlements
lower down the Straits. The whole affair, however, had a
very equivocal appearance, and it came out that more than
one ship had participated in the plunder.

Under these circumstances, I felt it my duty to represent,
what I could only consider a wanton outrage, to the Lords
of the Admiralty, and to the Danish Governor of Green-
land.

The prospect from the mast-head was interminable ice,
but that near us was evidently growing weaker, and it con-
tinued dissolving the next day.

Our Eskimaux returned with seven natives in their canoes,
or kajacks, bringing a small supply of birds.

Their village, lying on the South-side of the bay, appeared
to consist of a few huts made of seal skins, sufficient for the
residence of about fifty persons. Being desirous of procuring
a sledge and dogs, I offered them a rifle musket for one com-
pletely fitted, which they promised to fetch; with much
honesty of principle, however, refusing to accept the rifle

^*^4n*MU*.

*l1 f .-.-I

S^BST5^jv^.-«^l^WJ-^«JL 3^^VS^WSBSFSSSB^SBSSS^^J^U^dMMhJi^

'hur,,

<yia/t^ a //tfj?um> ^^^^Mi/awA?

an 1///111////11/// 0/' +V. £. Bay.

Sonden. /W/W/.rJi, ./ . ..■ 6 ■ 1 ':..// /,.',"..."/. Street.

^Jr^iJL JUL-^JL mill , * & J J

■■■ 4

Ufl

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

till they had brought the sledge. They soon returned, bringing June 30.
the sledge and dogs in a boat managed by five women,^" 7t°° 5& f'

° J ' Long. 54 8 W.

dressed in deer skins. The boat was called an umiack, and
is rowed by the women standing. I found that two of these
women, taller than the rest, were daughters of a Danish
resident by an Eskimaux woman. One of the men also was the
son of a Dane, and they were all of the colour of Mulattoes.
The man had been in charge of the Danish factory which
was burnt by the crew of the Eagle, and I therefore gave
him a letter to the Governor of Greenland, acquainting
him with the circumstance, and describing what I had
done.

We soon became intimate with our visitors and invited
them into the cabin, where they were treated with coffee
and biscuit, and their portraits taken. After leaving the
cabin, they danced Scotch reels on the deck with our
sailors, to the animating strains of our musician.

Sackheuse's mirth and joy exceeded all bounds ; and, with
a good-humoured officiousness, justified by the important
distinction which his superior knowledge now gave him, he per-
formed the office of master of the ceremonies. An Esquimaux
master of ceremonies to a ball on the deck of one of His
Majesty's ships in the icy seas of Greenland, was an office
somewhat new, but Nash himself could not have performed
his functions in a manner more appropriate. It did not
belong even to Nash to combine in his own person, like
Jack, the discordant qualifications of seaman, interpreter.

-Lii

■-*—=-■"-"

hLJ*&y&&.u*±!*j. viw^sses^Gms&m^^u^^jMiLkmid^

LonS. 54° 8' W.

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

June so. draughtsman, and master of ceremonies to a ball, with those
Lat. 7o° 56' i . of an actiye fisher of seals> and a hunter of white bears.

A daughter of the Danish resident, about eighteen years of
age, and by far the best looking of the group, was the object of
Jack's particular attentions; which, being observed by one of our
officers, he gave him a lady's shawl, ornamented with spangles,
as an offering for her acceptance. He presented it in a
most respectful, and not ungraceful manner, to the damsel,
who bashfully took a pewter ring from her finger and pre-
sented it to him in return ; rewarding him, at the same time, with
an eloquent smile, which could leave no possible doubt on our
Esquimaux's mind that he had made an impression on her heart.

After the ball, coffee was again served, and at eight o'clock
the party left us, well pleased with their entertainment, and
promising to come back with a skin boat, an article which,
I conceived, might be useful on the ice. I permitted Sack-
heuse to escort them, chiefly that he might hasten their move-
ments, and search for specimens of natural history.

There was now a considerable change in the appearance of the
mountains from the melting of the snow ; and in the morn-
ing a light breeze arose. I was surprised that our Eskimaux
and his countrymen did not appear, and stood towards
the village at the foot of the mountain, firing guns, but to
no purpose. At six o'clock, the breeze having freshened con-
siderably, I sent a boat ashore to bring him off; when the poor
fellow was found with his collar-bone .token, having, with
the idea, as expressed by himself, of " Tlentij powder, plenty

Ji^^>JL..I,2-4!

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

*' kill," overloaded his gun, and the violent recoil had caused
this accident, which prevented his managing his canoe: heTa

r & ° ' Long. 53 53' \V

was brought on board, and the surgeon reported that it would Var. 79° w
be some time before he could be cured.

We had soon the pleasure of seeing the ice begin to move
and break up; a channel was found leading towards the
Black Hook by the Majestic, of London, and every ship
crowded all sail after her.

At eight, we passed Unknown Island, and had a view of
the North side of Jacob's, or N.E, Bay, which, like the
rest, has many inlets, surrounded with lofty mountains.

A vast number of icebergs occupied the bottom of this
bay, having probably been generated there. At midnight we
passed the Black Hook, after threading several narrow and July 3.
intricate channels, and, early in the morning, we found our-Ta* ]Crt , '

3 J fo' Long. 56° 2 W.

selves safely through the second barrier : by mid-day we had
made a degree of latitude through a channel apparently
void of any current, where only a few icebergs and loose floes
were to be seen ; and we were then joined through another
channel by the ships which we had left behind, as at Waygatt.
In this place the neighbouring land was not so mountainous,
and the faces of the hills, especially next the sea, were less
covered with snow than those to the southward. At four, we were
abreast of Saunderson's Hope, and in sight of Woman's Islands,
which, by our observations, are more North, and further
West than they appear in the Admiralty charts. Firm ice
seen to the Westward, induced us to keep near the shore

n — rtfi'

55SK2^S^5£Mv^ jrzr ^^T^CT^^g^jM^^gp

,0*^^.n<^

=ji^^y.^iy*!!Lja

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

July 4.

and we passed an immense chain of icebergs, on one of
Lat. 72° 30' N. ydj a bottle was left, containing a note of our visit.

Long. 56° 37' W. ° i-i

A remarkable appearance of unequal refraction was observed
here in the ships near us, and at a distance. Those within
two or three miles seemed to be extended to a monstrous
height; while those at double the distance appeared to be
drawn out in a horizontal direction, even to flatness, upon

the water.

The next day we passed the third great barrier, consisting
of large icebergs in vast numbers, which were aground in
depths varying from sixty-three to one hundred fathoms. This
day we proceeded foity miles.

On the following day we took good observations. The varia-
tion on an iceberg was 80° 1' West ; and on board, the ship's
head being W. by N. § N., it was 98° West, making the
deviation 18° on that point of the compass.

On the 7th, after the clearing away of a thick fog, land
was seen true East, and we stood in for it, finding it im-
possible to penetrate further North while keeping far off the land.
At eight, we passed in shore near the Three Islands described
by Baffin, about nine miles from the land, which formed a
bay, within which several smaller islands were seen. We
found the water deeper as we neared the shore ; first it was
sixty-five, then one hundred and fifty, and inside the three
islands, one hundred and sixty fathoms. The sun was not
visible; but, as we were stopped from proceeding here,
Captain Sabine went on shore to observe the dip or inclination

S^!S3S?M!5r^^HKmw^!^^^^Sp^^555V

HrZ*^* £<^;2K.

S^5SRT^^!^HS5

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

of the needle; it was, 84° 9' 15". Numerous birds of various

kinds were found on these islands, and preserved as specimens. L

A whale was seen about this time, being the first since we Var. so" r w.

entered the Arctic circle.

The greatest part of the two following days was spent in
moving backward and forward among the ice, striving in vain to
find a way onwards ; and in the end, we returned to the Three
Islands, where it seemed most probable the ice would open
first, as the water deepened.

On the Southernmost island I erected a flag-staff, and had
the bearings taken with great exactness, by Kater's compass,
when a series of observations -were made on the deviation of
the magnetic needle. I also went on board the ship Harmony,
of Hull, Mr. M'Bride, Master, and made various observa-
tions, to determine how far the extraordinary deviation of the
needle prevailed on board ships in the whale trade ; and I
found it still greater than in the Isabella, being full four points.

The next day I stood into Kingston's Bay to determine
its position, and in the evening returned to the Three
Islands.

On the 13th, after making observations on shore with Captain
Sabine, for the chronometers and the variation, we returned on
board just as a thick fog was coming on ; and the wind having
shifted to the N.E., we took advantage of the ice beginning
to move, to make sail, continuing to work through, though
with great difficulty, from our being enveloped in a fog.

In standing to the West, we fell in with floes of immense

i 2

^ssb^n^l^v^-^ -v^N^^^^^^^^a^^^pssE^ss^ss^j^^ji^yjs^iMs

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

magnitude driving South, and were compelled to return toward
land. Now and then we got into a bight, and, after beating
up several miles, were disappointed by finding no exit, and
thus obliged to retrace our way. In this and the following
day, notwithstanding impediments, we managed to get for-
ward about fifteen miles : at length, however, we were under
the necessity of laying to; and I employed some of my un-
occupied time in constructing an instrument for bringing up
substances from the bottom of the sea, to supply the place of our
machine which, from its defective workmanship, had been found
ineffective, particularly in deep water. Our smith's forge was set
up, and an instrument made, after my model, on an entirely
new principle, which answered extremely well*.

On the loth, we spoke the ship Zephyr, and learnt that the
Three Brothers, of Hull, had been crushed to pieces by the
ice, in Jacob's Bay, at the time when we were beset, and in
danger there. Fortunately, the crew escaped to the ice, and had
been saved by the Ingria.

In the forenoon, observing the water more clear towards
the East, we stood round a floe, and beat to the North-East.
In the evening the ice appeared to be opening, and we passed
a few miles West of the Three Islands. The weather was clear
in the night, and the wind light and variable till about four
o'clock, when it shifted to the S.W., and we made all sail

* For description, see Appendix and Plate.

•\s^.;*-£-^JL V£-^m£E£

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

for a narrow opening which we saw in the ice, leading, but in July 16.
a very crooked direction, about N.N.W. (true). Forty sail Lat 74°30'N-

J Long. 58" 40' W.

of whalers were in company, and several large whales were
seen in this channel, bending their course North. Some were
killed by the harpooners.

I obtained a latitude by the altitude of the sun at mid-
night.

We continued our course with a fair wind up this channel,
which grew every hour more and more narrow and intricate ;
at length two ice-floes closed in upon us, and we were thus
completely jammed in, with the tantalizing sight of open
water not a hundred yards a-head. The Isabella underwent
a very severe pressure, but fortunately without damage, though
she was lifted several feet out of the water ; the concussion lasted
fifteen minutes ; the floes then receded a little, and favoured
the exertions used to heave her through, which was effected
after two hours' labour, by purchases brought from each
quarter and bow to the windlass and capstern.

The Alexander, and some of our whaling companions,
suffered in the same way, two miles from us to the West.

After being freed from our peril, we ran three miles North,
and found a convenient place where we might lay to for our
consort ; in the meantime a thick fog came on, and we con-
tinued firing signal guns, to denote our position. At eight in
the evening the Alexander came up, and we again proceeded
under all sail. At midnight we reached the end of the

<*n

&UIA4ULJG^.H^L.^SkHJL JJWILAJJKHHWGKHW"

July 17.
Lat. 74° 44'
Long. 59° 6'

N.
W,

SE^^S-CS^^si

55=

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

channel where we made fast to a floe, together with three
whalers which we had overtaken.

Next morning at six, the ice opening to the North, we
endeavoured, by every exertion, to work towards the entrance
of the channel, but had no sooner attained our object, than
the ice again closed in upon us, and nothing was to be done
unless by setting the crews to saw through the floes ; but one
of them continuing in motion, every effort was, for a long
while, rendered fruitless, as it closed again as fast as it was
sawed. In the evening a narrow passage was effected, and
both the ships were warped through with great difficulty.
In passing along another narrow lane, as it were, further on,
the Alexander was suddenly closed in ; three boats were sent
to her assistance; and after two hours' hard work, she was

extricated.

We still passed on, but a thick fog overtaking us, we were

obliged again to be made fast to a floe, till clear weather

should enable us to proceed.

For several days past we could get no distinct sight of land,

and had passed almost unnoticed the remarkable headland,

called the Devil's Thumb.

July 18. This morning the weather was more clear for some

time, and we could see the land, but no passage through the

ice could be descried.

In the early part of the day a large bear was seen making

towards the ships ; one of the Alexander's men, who was

v.r' — J' -r- 1^ JrJ— Jjn5555H^?^^"^5?y

IMIH

I II

i!|!.t!lrt!

•IJLJk^.^L ^ *JL JJM...4" \i>,

SHP^SBK^ES^35^^fc!»5^5|5S^^

: ' lllll

*'« -:^<^J*An^\JLJ^SfgSnt

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

straying at some distance on the ice, first discovered the July is.
animal, and went to meet it ; but soon perceiving he was no Lat" 74>l 50

1 to Long. 59° 10' \\

match for its ferocity, he prudently halted, till Messrs. Beverley,
Skene, and Ross, with some seamen, joined in the attack ;
the bear made off on their approach, and they had a tedious
hunt after it in vain.

About noon, the weather having cleared considerably, the
land, known by the name of the Horse's Head, was visible, and
several remarkably shaped rocks were seen among the masses
of ice which covered the land as far as the sight could
reach.

The next day we continued in the midst of the ice, which
was carrying us fast to the Northward.

After Sunday prayers, I went on board the Alexander ; in
the evening, the ice appeared plainly to be decaying, and
changed its course to the Westward. It opened next morning,
so as to allow us to warp and tow the ships ; towards noon we
had a light breeze, and the weather clearing a little, we were
able to see the direction of the channel ; but, about one o'clock,
finding ourselves unable to proceed further, we were again
made fast.

On the 21st the fog still continued and intercepted our sight;
but the motion of the ice told us that there must be a passage
open towards the North ; and the wind having got round to
the N.W., we made sail, keeping company with the Alex-
ander by the help of signal guns, till four o'clock, when we
were again made fast to a floe.

r^^^V^sl^LJ^,^^ jr^^JL 3l~K>A bV^vJIJ IJU*J

»^»K>e^O*fefeilK

£*M^MWLkMt

. mm^mmi

i fiii' i1' ''

Mir

July 21.
Lat. 74° 50' N.
Long. 59° 40' W.

A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY

My newly-invented instrument for bringing up ^substances
from the bottom of the sea, being now finished by the
armourer, who was an excellent mechanic, I ordered it to be
tried ; we were in smooth water, moored to the ice. The in-
strument was lowered into the sea by a whale line of two
and a half inches, and in about six minutes it reached
the bottom ; and, on being hauled up, contained between
three and four pounds of mud and stones. The name I gave to
this instrument, which is described in an accompanying plate,
was the Deep-Sea Clamm.

When the weather cleared, about five o'clock, we had the
pleasure of seeing land, and an open passage through the ice
leading North ; the ship was immediately under sail, and
passing several miles in that direction, we fell in with seven
whalers which had gone a-head of us while we were beset.
We received a message from one of them, the Everthorpe,
requesting surgical assistance for the master, whose thigh had
been very severely lacerated by a wounded bear, which had
attacked and dragged him out of the boat. The animal was
pierced by three lances before it would relinquish its gripe,
when, disengaging itself from the weapons, it swam to the
ice, and made off. The poor man, though sadly torn, was
happily not considered to be in a dangerous state.

A calm now followed, and we continued all the night
towing, sweeping, and warping the ships along. The land which
we saw, was determined to be the Horse's Head, and
Red Head, in 75° 12', the highest latitude to which ships

■.-^J^^IJLM-^JL WU11 *.?.

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

employed in the whale trade were known positively to have July 23.
penetrated. Lat 75° 10' N-

Long. 60° 00' 15"

The latitude in both ships agreed this day, and the varia- w.
tion taken on the ice, was 87' West. Lunar Ob.j6o°3o'

Long, j W.

The succeeding twenty-four hours were wholly employed in
tracking through the ice, a proceeding which becomes neces-
sary when the channel is too narrow to allow a vessel to beat
or be towed against the wind. In executing this service, the
whole ship's company was sent on the ice, and a rope was
thrown to them, one end of which was fastened to the head of
the fore-mast, for the purpose of keeping the bight clear of
the uneven parts of ice, usually found at the edge of the field.
The men having hold of the other end, then pulled the ship
a-head, marching to music, the musician always leading the
way. As it sometimes happened that a hole, covered with
snow, or a weak part was found, the men occasionally
tumbled in, but as they never let go the rope, they were im-
mediately pulled out. When this accident happened to the
fiddler, it afforded the sailors great amusement, and they never
failed to exercise their wit on the occasion.

Our labours of warping, towing, and tracking, continued
the next day, during which we had to force through several
large pieces of ice that blocked up the passage. The deep-sea
clamm brought up a considerable quantity of mud from a
depth of three hundred and fifty-six fathoms. About noon, in
attempting to force between two large floes, we were jammed in,
and perceived the Alexander, with two other vessels, a little way

\^lJAb^\sLJr^y&£ ^--.NuL MP'^^WW^^HWSU^U^WW^U JMmii^^

,i/i:(

i hii' i"

l!'1

. : i

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

July 24.
Lat. 75°25'N.
Long. 60° 36' W,

off', in the same circumstances. All hands were vigorously set
to work, and the Isabella was freed in about three hours ;
every assistance was then afforded to relieve the Alexander,
with like success ; after which we both continued our voyage.
About thirty sail of whalers were at this time to be seen from
the mast-head, far to the southward, beset in the ice, and still
unable to follow us.

We were now twelve miles from the land, which was every
where covered with ice, except a few places near the shore,
where the sharp top of a rock appeared occasionally piercing
through it; the interior being an entire, smooth, but high
mass of ice.

In the evening of the 25th, a breeze sprung up, and carried
us on about fifteen miles ; but finding no passage out of the
channel in which we were, we returned towards the south,
with the hope of meeting with better success in a channel nearer
the land ; before, however, we had succeeded in retracing our
way, the ice had closed in upon and beset us.

Having now passed all the whalers, except the Dexterity
of Leith, I thought it best to provide against the chance of
our parting company ; and having therefore made up my
despatches to this day, I sent them on board that vessel.

We were now arrived at a point, between which and Cape
Dudley Digges land had not been seen by former navigators.

The shore, between latitude 75° 12' and 76°, formed a
spacious bay ; in the midst of which rose a remarkable spiral
rock. This I named Melville's Monument, in grateful remem-

ttt<tt±R

Niv*

>>?^ffr^7?^^^^^rfl^B

L ■

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

brance of the late Viscount, from whom I received mj first July 25.
commission in His Majesty's navy. To the bay itself I gave the Lat" 75° 25 N'

Long. 60° 36' W.

name of Melville's Bay, from respect to the present First Lord
of the Admiralty. It is situated between lat. 75° 12' and
76° 0', and abounds with whales, many of which were taken
by the ships which were persevering enough to follow us.

Some small islands were discovered this morning in shore ; and
Captain Sabine, having offered his services to examine them,
set out with Mr. Ross, Mr. Beverley, and several of the men,
traversing the ice by a very circuitous route ; after exploring
them the party returned safely, with several specimens of their
natural productions, which are described in the Appendix :
I named them after Captain Sabine. A little to the south of
these, and nearer the land, four other islands were discovered,
to which I gave the name of Browne's Islands, from Henry
Browne, Esq., who had interested himself much in the expe-
dition, and to whose advice on various subjects we were much
indebted.

On Sunday the 26th, we were immoveably beset by ice; My 26.
the Dexterity now alone continuing in sight. Divine service ^at" 7fn35 'N*

J & & Long. 6o°30'W.

was performed, and a sermon, as usual, read to the ship's
company.

On Monday the sun was completely obscured, notwith-
standing which, the thermometer stood at 55°. As the
Alexander was lying in a small pool, I thought it a good
opportunity to make some experiments on the deviation of her
compasses ; for which purpose, taking those of the Isabella, I

k 2

! 9

G^^^yfxB^Ak^ -^&^^^5^*&M0*5B5!£g^^3^B^UJsWl&})$3

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

went on board with Captain Sabine, and had a most satisfactory
' ' ~ _, ■" set of observations, which will be found recorded in the

Long. 60° 36 W. '

Var. 88° 25' w. Appendix.

The ice still continued to beset us, and as it was found to be
pressing harder, it was deemed advisable to cut docks in it
for safety.

On the following day the weather remained the same, the ice
becoming still closer. The dock in which the Alexander had
taken shelter, not having been cut sufficiently deep entirely to
screen her hull, she received several smart shocks, but for-
tunately experienced no damage. We had soundings in three
hundred and fourteen fathoms, bringing up mud and stones.
The temperature of the mud was 32°, and of the water at the
surface 34°.

Early the next morning the wind increased from the
northward, and the ice beginning to move, I finished my
letters, and sent them to the Dexterity, that we might take
advantage of a channel of clear water that was seen leading to
the north-west from our position.

Melville's Monument now appeared the centre of the bay,
and an island was discovered a little further north, which,
being first seen by Mr. Thorn, purser of the Isabella, I named
after him. Very high mountains of land and ice were seen to
the north side of Melville's Bay, forming an impassable
barrier ; the precipices next the sea being from one thousand
to two thousand feet high, often clear of snow, and exhibiting
heaps of ruins accumulated in vast fragments at their bases.

^BOBt

^^yg?~

IJilHii.

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

Captain Sabine and Mr. Ross were sent to make observations, July 30

and they determined the latitude to be 75° 28' 20", and the
longitude 60° 36", by the chronometers. A thick fog then
coming on, we were obliged to fire for the purpose of keeping
company ; the Alexander and we continued beating between
the laud and sea ice, which had separated, and presented a
clear channel to the northward.

In the morning of the 30th the fog cleared away, and a
calm ensuing, all hands were busied in towing the ships
along; every advantage, in the mean time, being taken of
the light breezes that occasionally sprung up, and the water
appearing to be most open near the shore, we bore up a
little and stood towards it. Five whalers were in sight to the
southward, and we met with many whales.

Land was in sight from N.W. by W. to S.E.

Thick weather came on at midnight and continued till six in
the morning, when the fogs cleared away, and enabled us to
discover a narrow channel between the land and the sea-ice.
We tracked the ships to its edge, and then warped along
with the sails clewed up. At noon we had a light air of
wind, and set all sail, steering along the land as near as the
ice would permit ; we then sounded in four hundred fathoms,
Thorn's Island bearing east, three miles.

The deep-sea clamm brought up some soft mud, with a stone
in it.

It being calm, I sent a boat after a whale, which appeared
to be particularly marked, being black and white : he was

Var.

53' W.

,'H"'1

SB - i

AfcJ-^.J*> ^ J.lil^a.,WJ":

^*"*f?5^W^$^^!?3"T^?15T^T?5

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

soon harpooned by the Isabella's boat ; the first harpoon
striking him on the back a little behind the left fin, and at first
appearing to be effectual. The boat was then carried to the
edge of the ice, and several lines veered away ; but, after
holding a long time, it was perceived that he had escaped, but
he soon after appeared, about a mile and a half distant, with
the harpoon in his back, being then a " loose fish/' As he
remained near the surface, and appeared to suffer from the
wound, the young officers of both ships, who each commanded
boats, pulled with emulation to the spot where each expected
him to rise, waiting for the moment of his appearance with
anxiety. Fortune favoured Mr. James Ross, the animal rising
nearest to his boat, in which the harpooner infixed his weapon
with a deadly aim, following it by a third and fourth, which
made the capture certain. He was now much exhausted, and
obliged to remain near the surface, thereby exposing himself to
the lancers ; the blood, at intervals, flowing from his wounds,
and being thrown up in a volume as he rose to breathe. At
length, becoming exhausted, he had only strength to make
a last but terrible struggle.

The people in the boats aware of their danger, retreated,
leaving him to spend his fury on the water, where he was seen
rolling and writhing in dreadful agony, lashing the sea from
side to side with his tail and fins, till he expired ; he then
sunk, remaining suspended by the lines of the harpooners who
weighed him to the surface, and towed him on board in
triumph. We at first took him in tow and attempted to pro-

r-_ >'«' 'V^.-A^Vi^^CSSnE

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

ceed, but the weather being foggy and calm, little progress ju-iysi.
was made. Lat- 75° 33' n.

Long. 6l° 22' W

The fish, which was a male, measured forty-six feet in length,
his bone eight feet six inches, and was considered by the
Greenlandmen a payable fish ; we now made fast to a floe,
and commenced the process of flinching, the term applied to
stripping the whale of his blubber. The tail being cut off and
hoisted up to the stern, the fish was fastened alongside by the
rump and head : two parallel incisions were then made two feet
asunder across the fish from the back to the belly, and at the
latter (which was next the ship,) a longitudinal cut was made
joining the two ends of the first incisions. Thus this part was
formed into a flap, through which a hole was made large
enough to admit the strap of the main tackle, and into which it
was fixed, and hauled tight, the use of this being to turn the
body of the fish as the flinching advances. The blubber is
first removed from the surface, being cut into quadrilateral
pieces, to which tackles are applied, and it is thus easily torn
off and hoisted in. The body is then turned by the main
tackle attached to the flap or canting piece, until another
surface is exposed ; the whole being taken on board, together
with the whalebone and the jaw-bones, the remains are turned
adrift to be devoured by the birds, being termed Krang by
the sailors, and smelling intolerably, owing to the effluvia from
the intestines, being pierced by the lances. We took on board
nine tons of blubber, and sent four to the Alexander, intending
to use it for light and fuel, if obliged to winter in the ice. The

rii—iiir fri~Trtfc'

iSS^^^^^^^sry^^^asr^fs^isf^s^

^^m^ms^^^^^\jt-4jcL^w^m

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

July 31. Bon Accord, of Aberdeen, which was nine or ten miles to the
Lat. 75° 33' n. south, sent her boats to this pool which was full of whales, and

Long. 61° 22' W. . rii v i- i

killed five in the course of the day. A light breeze springing
up in the evening, I gave up my intention of examining the
body of the whale ; we therefore loosed from the ice, made sail,
sent our letters by the Bon Accord's boat, and parted with
three cheers.

KJr^^JLLhVh^^JrA^A .MULL *

> i.

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

CHAPTER V.

CONTINUED PROGRESS THROUGH THE ICE IMMINENT PERIL OF THE

SHIPS — DISCOVERY OF AN UNKNOWN TRIBE OF ESKIMAUX

INTERCOURSE WITH THE NATIVES.

ON the morning of the first of August we had light airs and Aug. i.
calms, and were employed working to the north in a narrow ^at' l5l 44 N"

. ° Long. 6l° 20 W.

channel. Considerable progress was made, and, after divine
service, good observations were obtained on the ice, where
we were stopped.

The next morning being calm, we discovered a small opening-
covered with new formed ice, called by the seamen bay -ice. The
land opposite to us bore east, and presented a long continued
glacier near the sea. At the distance of six leagues the shore
jutted out into black and sharp promontories, the main body of
ice appealing to be continued from the interior into the sea,
and terminating in steep perpendicular cliffs, from which many
icebergs appeared at no distant period to have been separated.
The ice around us was full of bays and inlets, in which were
myriads of that species of sea-fowl known by the name of the
little awk, swimming on the water, together with a vast number
of whales and sea unicorns.

jfc3kHABL.:.w!k*jL J^^^m^s^^mm^&^^^^3^\jM^Mm^^

r !

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

„,„ ,»m

I!* ,

J l|!l

Aug. 4.
Lat. 75° 58' 56"

Var.
W.

In the morning the seamen were sent to track the ship, first
along a floe, then on the land ice ; the bay ice was so strong,
Long. 64° 37' 2i" that it became necessary to break it, by suspending a boat

_ , from the iib-boom ; this being constantly rolled by two

91 18' 00" J & J J

seamen, raised a wave a-head of the ship, that effected this
purpose; thus, gradually making way for her advance. About
noon the breeze freshened considerably ; we made all sail, and,
in one tack, fetched into a channel leading along the land,
which now took a W.N.W. direction ; in the evening it con-
tinued to freshen, carrying us on at the rate of five or six miles
an hour, a velocity which we had not experienced for several
months.

A very high snowy mountain seemed to form the summit of
this immense barrier of ice, which led to a lofty promontory; a
little north of which, but projecting considerably, was a cape,
which I named Cape Melville, terminating the bay I had
named after the First Lord of the Admiralty. Mr. Skene,
officer of the watch, discovered three small islands, which I
therefore named after him ; they were at some distance from
the Cape, and were clear of snow. At ten, having rounded
the Cape, we were stopped by ice, and made fast to a floe,
having Cape Melville to the S.E., and land, apparently
forming a cape, to the N.W. This was taken by some of the
officers for Cape Dudley Digges ; we found the depth of water
two hundred and fifty fathoms ; the ice appeared to drift to the
westward. Here we completed our water from a pool in the
ice. At noon we got under sail, and proceeded further

i» i

*-J"r-r*&^iJ*£n<fJL71rS^!SnJ5S!

b^UL.jK&mJL .hU-K*A Ail,

•>- >*r>*»»rw .X*C^^* ,c<- - >x

^^^^PaHc

Rl JCt

F-^/5P-^i«jj»«n,5»i«^J^55SHBBHJ"!

^Z> -I. -r ;»-J

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

westward, that we might avoid the floes which were drifting August 5.
upon us ; and, having continued sailing all the day, at mid- L^' 1 0 *° w
night we moored to the ice, to which we remained attached Var. 90°i8'w.
until four in the morning, when we were compelled to cast
off, in order to escape from an iceberg which we saw bearing
directly down upon us. The little awks were exceedingly
abundant at this time also, and many were shot for food ; as
was also a large gull, two feet five inches in length, which,
when killed, disgorged one of these birds entire.

The land which had been taken for Cape Dudley Digges
now appeared to be an island, and Lieutenant Parry con-
jectured it was the Wolstenholme Island of Baffin ; but, the
latitude not agreeing, Captain Sabine and myself thought
otherwise. Not less than two hundred little awks were shot
this day, and served out to the ships' companies, among whose
victuals they proved an agreeable variety, not having the
fishy flavour that might be expected from their food, Avhich
consists commonly of small shrimps, found very plentifully
in this quarter.

The day after, while standing off and on, we had good
observations. At half-past two, a small opening was seen, which,
together with the motion of the ice, giving us hopes of forcing a
passage, I determined to attempt it ; and the weather proving
fine, the ships were tracked with great labour through
about a mile of bay-ice, to the narrowest part of a floe which
obstructed our passage into a pool a-head ; the usual resort
was had to sawing, but our labours were soon suspended

l 2

I :

— -

\jl^aa^^4lljk^.^^^^.hJl j^jmms^mmm!BmsL&iAmkJNa&

i -v

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

! i 11

; /'I

August 6. by the discovery of a passage a little to the eastward.
Lat. 70 50 so N. rpQ ^.j- t}ierefore we warped the ships through the loose and

Long.64°47'00"W ' L .

Vai. 9i° 32' oo vv bay-ice, and thus managed to proceed about a mile further.

Here we obtained good observations and the bearings of
the land.

As it appeared likely that our people would be at work
throughout the night, an extra allowance of provisions
was served out ; their labours were incessant till half-past
one, when, being almost worn out with exertion, I allowed
them to rest till five. At half-past six the ice began to move, and
the wind increasing to a gale, the only chance left for us was
to endeavour to force the ship through it to the north, where
it partially opened ; but the channel was so much obstructed
by heavy pieces, that our utmost efforts were ineffectual ; the
floes closed in upon us, and, at noon, we felt their pressure
most severely. A floe on one side of the Isabella appeared to
be fixed, while another, with a circular motion, was passing
rapidly along. The pressure continuing to increase, it became
a trial of strength between the ship and the ice ; every
support threatened to give way ; the beams in the hold began
to bend ; and the iron tanks settled together. At this critical
moment, when it seemed impossible for the ship to sustain
the accumulating pressure much longer, she rose several feet ;
while the ice, which was more than six feet thick, broke against
her sides, curling back on itself. The great stress now fell
upon her bow, and, after being again lifted up, she was
carried with great violence towards the Alexander, which ship

EERJSnyJS^^TSTIF^S^^^

Jin

•-'* ^^™ ^^^^^g-e^.

*JUL3h£-.«&£ ^**t.h*L J^J^S^i«a!?fl«PSS!fflR^4^^W^^^4j.

^ ^J^h^^JLJfl^A UB^l'JL U-JJ

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

had hitherto been, in a great measure, defended by the July 7.
Isabella. Every effort to avoid their getting foul of each other ^at' !^052,!!'
failed ; the ice-anchors and cables broke one after pnother, and
the sterns of the two ships came so violently into contact, as to
crush to pieces a boat that could not be removed in time.
The collision was tremendous, the anchors and chain-plates being
broken, and nothing less expected than the loss of the masts ;
but, at this eventful instant, by the interposition of Provi-
dence, the force of the ice seemed exhausted ; the two fields
suddenly receded, and we passed the Alexander with compa-
ratively little damage. The last things that hooked each other
were the two bower anchors, which, being torn from the bows,
remained suspended in a line between the two ships, until that
of the Alexander gave way *.

A clear channel soon after opened, and we ran into a pool,
thus escaping the immediate danger; but the fall of snow being
very heavy, its extent could not be seen.

Neither the masters, the mates, nor those men who had been
all their lives in the Greenland service, had ever experienced
such imminent peril; and they declared, that a common
whaler must have been crushed to atoms. Our safety must,
indeed, be attributed to the perfect and admirable manner in
which the vessels had been strengthened when fitting for service.

But our troubles were not yet at an end; for, as the
gale increased, the ice began to move with greater velocity,

* See the Plate.

ML ., A^^.»» ^--I^-^L. -g""8^'-

r3^55533^^5E?^!5^ _J^L*^v^£T^5WWSfflH^5??B,^5?5R!!^S18?5f5?!?S

ft :I1< ■';

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

August 7-
Lat. 75° 52' N.
Lone. 64.° 42' W.

while the continued thick fall of snow kept from our sight
the further danger that awaited us, till it became imminent ;
a large field of ice was soon discovered at a small distance,
bearing fast down upon us from the west, and it thus became
necessary to saw docks for refuge, in which service all hands
were immediately employed ; it was, however, found too thick
for our nine-feet saws, and no progress could be made.
This circumstance proved fortunate, for it was soon after
perceived, that, the field, to which we were moored for this
purpose, was drifting rapidly on a reef of icebergs which lay
aground : the topsails were therefore close-reefed, in order that
we might run, as a last resource, between two bergs, or into any
creek that might be found among them ; when suddenly the field
acquired a circular motion, so that every exertion was now neces-
sary for the purpose of warping along the edge, that being the
sole chance we had of escaping the danger of being crushed on
an iceberg. In a few minutes we observed that part of the
field, into which we had attempted to cut our docks, come in
contact with the berg, with such rapidity and violence, as to rise
more than fifty feet up its precipitous side, where it suddenly
broke, the elevated part falling back on the rest with a terrible
crash, and overwhelming with its ruins the very spot we had
previously chosen for our safety. Soon afterwards the ice ap-
peared sufficiently open for us to pass the reef of bergs, and we
once more found ourselves in a place of security.

During the whole of this eventful day, every officer and man
on board both ships was alike employed ; their zeal and activity

J^^L^M-^sLV^l VKJJ K.

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

under the severest fatigues, could only be equalled by their August s.
patience and fortitude, and they fully justified the opinion I Lat' 75 34 N;
had previously formed what their conduct would be in the hour Var. 920 44' w.
of danger.

Soon after it cleared away, and we saw the land ; and, in a
short time made fast to the land-ice, which, uniting with the
icebergs, formed a spacious and secure bay. Extra allow-
ances of preserved meat and grog having been served out
to the sailors, all the spare hands were employed repairing
our damages, which were not very considerable, but the re-
placing the Alexander's chain-plates was a tedious work.

During this interval, Captain Sabine, with Messrs. Bushnan,
Skene, and Beverly, were sent to examine the nearest shore,
which appeared six miles distant ; it was ascertained to be an
island by Mr. Bushnan, and I accordingly gave it his name.
They found it utterly desolate, but some piles of stone, re-
sembling in their appearance and arrangement, the usual graves
of the Eskimaux, shewed that it had been inhabited; a small
piece of the stem of a heath bush was also found, and being
burned at one end, was recognised, by Sackheuse, to be the
instrument by which they trim their lamps. Very little
vegetation was found, but a few specimens of the papaver
nudicalis, a ranunculus, and two or three specimens of a short
grass were brought on board.

As soon as our party returned, we prepared for sailing ; and
at midnight a light breeze coming from N.N.E., we loosed, and
made sail.

..'•:

"*•'■'""' ■»«w»^.J-«n^»s;^B^!»<L..-^agail

^^ j,&-*&L j*j*k**i . JWJH^i«aw,.iy*4tifeL»»^4j!i^

■n :

!' II 111

:ii,i

August 9-
Lat. 75° 55' N.
Long. 65° 32' W.

A VOYAGE Or DISCOVERY

The ships had made very little progress, when we were sur-
prised by the appearance of several men on the ice, who were
hallooing, as we imagined, to the ships ; the first impression
was, that they were shipwrecked sailors, probably belonging
to some vessel that had followed us, and had been crushed
in the late gale ; we therefore tacked, hoisted our colours, and
stood in for the shore. On approaching the ice, we dis-
covered them to be natives, drawn on rudely-fashioned sledges,
by dogs, which they continued to drive backwards and for-
wards with wonderful rapidity. When we arrived within hail,
Sackheuse called out to diem, in his own language ; some words
were heard in return, to which a reply was again made in the
Eskimaux, but neither party appeared to be in the least degree
intelligible to the other. For some time they continued to
regard us in silence, but, on the ships' tacking, they set up
a simultaneous shout, accompanied with many strange gesticu-
lations, and went off in their sledges with amazing velocity
towards the land. After they had attained the distance of a
mile, or more, they halted for about two hours : as soon as
this was observed, the ship was tacked, and a boat sent to
place an observation-stool, of four feet in height, on the ice,
on which various presents, consisting of knives and articles of
clothing were left. Either, however, they did not see it, or it
did not attract their attention, and a second boat was therefore
sent, with directions to leave one of the Eskimaux dogs with
some strings of blue beads around his neck, near the same place.
It being necessary to examine if there was a passage in this

^.^"ilJLirg-^g

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

place, we took the opportunity of their absence to stand August 9.
towards the head of the pool, which was about four miles Lat 75° 55' N'

. re . . • 1 . , Long. 65° 32' W

ott, trusting that, in the mean time, they would return to the
same spot, to which it was also our intention to come back,
after examining into the chances of a passage northwards.
No opening was, however, found ; and we therefore returned,
after an absence of ten hours. The dog was found sleeping
on the spot where we left him, the presents remaining un-
touched. A single sledge was shortly after observed at a great
distance, but it immediately drove off with great rapidity.

Being extremely anxious to communicate with the natives,
I caused a pole to be prepared, on which a flag was fixed with
a representation of the sun and moon painted over a hand
holding a sprig of heath (the only shrub seen on the shore).
This pole being carried to an iceberg, mid-way between the ships
and the shore, was there erected, and a bag containing presents,
with a device of a hand pointing to a ship, painted on it, was
fastened to the pole within reach, and left there ; the ships, in
the meantime, being moored in a convenient situation for ob~
serving what might take place.

The gale had now entirely subsided, the weather became
beautiful, and the water calm ; circumstances that necessarily
detained us in our present situation, which, notwithstanding
the imperious nature of our orders to proceed with all possible
despatch, we should have been unwilling to leave, while any
chance of a communication with a people, hitherto unknown,
remained.

n^lklll^^ULJi^.^L „W ^JL ALM..A. JUJ^JU KJ^SJ ..l&g^UW^

■i I

It -1

.wo 1**1'! I

1 '

* Mi

' l!;:!

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

August io. Myriads of the little awks surrounded us, and afforded some

Lat. 75° 55' n. ^ tb proved n0 less a treat to the people.

Long. 65° 32' W. * ' J £ . ; . . , •

August 10. About ten o'clock this day, we were rejoiced to
see eight sledges, driven by the natives, advancing by a cir-
cuitous route towards the place where we lay ; they halted
about a mile from us, and the people alighting, ascended a small
iceberg, as if to reconnoitre. After remaining apparently in
consultation for nearly half an hour, four of them descended,
and came towards the flag-staff, which, however, they did not
venture to approach. In the meantime a white flag was
hoisted at the main in each ship, and John Sacheuse
despatched, bearing a small white flag, with some presents, that
he might endeavour, if possible, to bring them to a parley.
This was a service which, he had most cheerfully volunteered,
requesting leave to go unattended and unarmed, a request to
which no objection could be made, as the place chosen
for the meeting was within half a mile of the Isabella.
It was equally advantageous to the natives, a canal, or small
chasm in the ice, not passable without a plank, separating the
parties from each other, and preventing any possibility of an
attack from thes? people, unless by darts.

In executing this service, Sacheuse displayed no less
address than courage. Having placed his flag at some dis-
tance from the canal, he advanced to the edge, and, taking
off his hat, made friendly signs for those opposite to approach,
as he did ; this they partly complied with, halting at a distance
of three hundred yards, where they got out of their sledges,

,: - -^-^JL^Jg-NiJLJa^Ji 1

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

and set up a loud simultaneous halloo, which Sacheuse August 10.
answered by imitating it. They ventured to approach a little*!' l5055,,N'

° *^ rr Long. 65° 32 W.

nearer, having nothing in their hands but the whips with
which they guide their dogs ; and, after satisfying themselves that
the canal was impassable, one of them in particular seemed to
acquire confidence. Shouts, words, and gestures, were exchanged
for some time to no purpose, though each party seemed,
in some degree, to recognise each other's language. Sacheuse,
after a time, thought he could discover that they spoke the
Humooke dialect, drawling out their words, however, to an
unusual length. He immediately adopted that dialect, and,
holding up the presents, called out to them, Kahkeite, " Come
" on \" to which they answered, Naakrie, naakrieai-plaite, " No,
" no — go away ;" and other words which he made out to
mean, that they hoped we were not come to destroy them.
The boldest then approached to the edge of the canal, and
drawing from his boot a knife (see the engraving),
repeated, *' Go away ;" " I can kill you." Sacheuse, not
intimidated, told them he was also a man and a friend,
and, at the same time, threw across the canal some strings of
beads and a chequed shirt ; but these they beheld with great
distrust and apprehension, still calling " Go away, don't kill us/'
Sacheuse now threw them an English knife, saying, " Take
' that/' On this they approached with caution, picked up
the knife, then shouted and pulled their noses ; these actions
were imitated by Sacheuse, who, in return, called out, " Heigh,
"yaw!" pulling his nose with the same gesture. They now

m 2

i!i ;■

■I

^"^ .■"^■n«--=.»

■•.J

S!333r2£^5^£?Siv<. jks^^

w*- ir?£*^f

m*K&S*F^*5*P

55PS*

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

'; ^ :»'

August 10. pointed to the shirt, demanding what it was, and when
Lat. 75° 55' n. ^.^ it wa§ an artic]e Q£ ciothing, asked of what skin it was

Long. o5 32' W.

made. Sacheuse replied, it was made of the hair of an animal,
which they had never seen ; on which they picked it up with
expressions of surprise. They now began to ask many ques-
tions ; for, by this time, they found the language spoken by
themselves and Sacheuse, had sufficient resemblance to enable
them to hold some communication.

They first pointed to the ships, eagerly asking, " What great
" creatures those were V " Do they come from the sun or the
" moon V " Do they give us light by night or by day V
Sacheuse told them that he was a man, that he had a father and
mother like themselves; and, pointing to the south, said that
he came from a distant country in that direction. To this
they answered, " That cannot be, there is nothing but ice
there." They again asked, "What creatures these were?"
pointing to the ships ; to which Sacheuse replied, that " they
" were houses made of wood/' This they seemed still to dis-
credit, answering, " No, they are alive, we have seen them
" move their wings." Sacheuse now inquired of them, what
they themselves were ; to which they replied, they were men,
and lived in that direction, pointing to the north; that
there was much water there; and that they had come
here to fish for sea unicorns. It was then agreed, that
Sacheuse should pass the chasm to them, and he accordingly
returned to the ship to make his report, and to ask for a
plank.

^■^iJLirl-^ U!UiI

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

During the whole of this conversation I had been employed, August 10.
. with a good telescope, in observing their motions ; and beheld *'a g 0 „ , w
the first man approach with every mark of fear and distrust,
looking frequently behind to the other two, and beckoning
them to come on, as if for support. They occasionally retreated,
then advanced again, with cautious steps, in the attitude of
listening, generally keeping one hand down by their knees,
in readiness to pull out a knife which they had in their
boots; in the other hand they held their whips with the lash
coiled up ; their sledges remained at a little distance, the fourth
man being apparently stationed to keep them in readiness for
escape. Sometimes they drew back the covering they had on
their heads, as if wishing to catch the most distant sounds ;
at which time I could discern their features, displaying extreme
terror and amazement, while every limb appeared to tremble
as they moved. Sacheuse was directed to entice them to
the ship, and two men were now sent with a plank, which
was accordingly placed across the chasm. They appeared
still much alarmed, and requested that Sacheuse only should
come over ; he accordingly passed to the opposite side, on
which they earnestly besought him not to touch them, as
if he did, they should certainly die. After he had used many
arguments to persuade them that he was flesh and blood, the
native who had shewn most courage, ventured to touch his hand ;
then pulling himself by the nose, set up a shout, in which
he was joined by Sacheuse and the other three. The presents
were then distributed, consisting of two or three articles of

—^

**=• ' ^-'-^-SlW" ■

fS5S5^5SI^52?^!Sr^lS^^T^5H?SFFW^Hf?l^5^H^9H5H^^!

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

clothing, and a few strings of beads ; after which Sacheuse
exchanged a knife for one of theirs.

The hope of getting some important information, as well as
the interest naturally felt for these poor creatures, made
me impatient to communicate with them myself; and I
therefore desired Lieutenant Parry to accompany me to the
place where the party were assembled, it appearing to me that
Sacheuse had failed in persuading them to come nearer the
ships. We accordingly provided ourselves with additional
presents, consisting of looking-glasses and knives, together with
some caps and shirts, and proceeded towards the spot, where
the conference was held with increased energy. By the time
we reached it the whole were assembled ; those, who had
originally been left at a distance with their sledges, having driven
up to join their comrades. The party now, therefore, consisted
of eight natives, with all their sledges, and about fifty dogs, two
sailors, Sacheuse, Lieutenant Parry, and myself; forming a
groupe of no small singularity ; not a little also increased by
the peculiarity of the situation, on a field of ice, far from the
land. The noise and clamour may easily be conceived, the
whole talking and shouting together, and the dogs howling,
while the natives were flogging them with their long whips, to
preserve order.

Our arrival produced a visible alarm, causing them to retreat
a few steps towards their sledges ; on this Sacheuse called to us
to pull our noses, as he had discovered this to be the mode of
friendly salutation with them. This ceremony was accordingly

...

f-rr-,

A^w_JW?-.N]\

T35S3W

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS*

performed by each of us, the natives, during their retreat, August 10.
making use of the same gesture, the nature of which we had Tat' !5„ 55 '

° to Long. 65° 32' W.

not before understood. In the same way we imitated their
shouts as well as we could, using the same interjection, heigh,
yaw! which we afterwards found to be an expression of
surprise and pleasure. We then advanced towards them while
they halted, and presented the foremost with a looking-glass
and a knife, repeating the same presents to the whole, as they
came up in succession. On seeing their faces in the glasses,
their astonishment appeared extreme, and they looked round in
silence, for a moment, at each other and at us ; immediately
afterwards they set up a general shout, succeeded by a loud
laugh, expressive of extreme delight, as well as surprise, in
which we joined, partly from inability to avoid it, and willing
also to shew that we were pleased with our new acquaintances.

The impression made by this ludicrous scene on Sacheuse
was so strong, that some time after he made a drawing of it,
being the first specimen we had witnessed of his talents for
historical composition ; his practice in the art of design, which
he had cultivated, in addition to all the other branches of know-
ledge engrafted on his Eskimaux education, being hitherto
limited to copying such prints of single figures, or ships, as he
could procure. As he never received any hint, or assistance,
in this performance, a correct copy has been subjoined,
without the slightest variation from the original, the scale only
being reduced to accommodate the size of the work. It cannot,
certainly, be regarded as a specimen of art, but it has the

Ut J-±V*~**~n «^-« -r ^M*— - -■»«

K*>~^K

SSHS^5S^2?!^5S*^72^SI^W5BfSWH^9f^^PBH^,lfS^55S55

>^.rf^jN';

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

August 10.
Lat. 75° 55' N.
Long. 65° 32' W.

ill :'!:i!

i \k,

merit of being, at least, a good representation of the objects
introduced ; the defects of composition must be, in a great
measure, attributed to the circumstances under which it was
drawn ; and had he undertaken it on the spot, I have no doubt
that he would have paid a greater regard to the properties and
disposition of the parts.

Having now at length acquired confidence they advanced,
offering, in return for our knives, glasses, and beads, their
knives, sea unicorns' horns, and sea-horse teeth, which were
accepted. They were then instructed by Sacheuse to un-
cover their heads, as a mark of good will and respect to us ;
and with this ceremonial, which they performed immediately,
and of which they appeared to comprehend the meaning, our
friendship became established.

One of them having inquired what was the use of a red cap,
which I had given him, Sacheuse placed it on his head, to
the great amusement of the rest, each of whom put it on in
his turn. The colour of our skins became next a subject of
much mirth, as also the ornaments on the frames of the looking-
glasses. The eldest of them, who was also the one that acted
as leader, addressing himself to me, now made a long speech,
which being ended, he appeared to wait for a reply. I made
signs that I did not understand him, and called for Sacheuse
to interpret. He thus perceived that we used different languages,
at which his astonishment appeared extreme, and he expressed
it by a loud Heigh, yaw! As Sacheuse's attempt to procure the
meaning of this oration seemed likely to fail, and as we were

CATION " BAY, as 1 "mwn by I

Strut,

I ,

5^K3?n5^55?^5Sp,^2^!!3T^W!^Pb%5

7**^^*^ .-T ■V^^*KT--_r^7!*^>^C.^L-i-JT>i*^S»ki

^^St

j ii

unfili*

n:r;

' 111

I ill

!li

7rrZT~7Tr^

'..A Jl

ILill I

>*C--* -r

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

anxious to get them to the ship as soon as possible, I desired August 10.
him to persuade them to accompany us; they accordingly L*'w 6^Q '
consented, on which their dogs were unharnessed and fastened
to the ice, and two of the sledges were drawn along the plank to
the other side of the chasm ; three of the natives being left in
charge of the dogs, and the remaining sledges ; the other five
followed us, laughing heartily at seeing Lieutenant Parry and
myself drawn towards the ship, on the sledges, by our seamen.
One of them, by keeping close to me, got before his compa-
nions, and thus we proceeded together till we arrived within a
hundred yards of the ship, where he stopped. I attempted
to urge him on, but in vain ; his evident terror preventing him
from advancing another step till his companions came up. It
was apparent that he still believed the vessel to be a living
creature, as he stopped to contemplate her, looking up at the
masts, and examining every part with marks of the greatest
fear and astonishment; he then addressed her, crying out in words
perfectly intelligible to Sacheuse, and in a loud tone — " Who
" are you ? what are you ? where do you come from ? is it from
: the sun or the moon V pausing between every question, and
pulling his nose with the utmost solemnity. The rest now came
up in succession, each shewing similar surprise, and making
use of the same expressions, accompanied by the same
extraordinary ceremony. Sacheuse now laboured to assure
them, that the ship was only a wooden house, and pointed out
the boat, which had been hauled on the ice to repair ; ex-
plaining to them that it was a smaller one of the same kind.

Hi 1

■

;«*wi re—.'.s ,cv— «,n mr-MiHi ^^aaai^.

■■^rel^>N&L Jl^~-L UlJgy^BSJP1

*KM>v&'*b££il!

1 H' >4 »

•i'i

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

■' sn

August io. This immediately arrested their attention, they advanced to
at. 7 ■ t|ie Doa{ examined her, as well as the carpenters' tools and

Long. 65° 32 W. r

the oars, very minutely ; each object, in its turn, exciting the
most ludicrous ejaculations of surprise ; we then ordered the
boat to be launched into the sea, with a man in it, and hauled up
again, at the sight of which they set no bounds to their clamour.
The ice anchor, a heavy piece of iron, shaped like the letter
S, and the cable, excited much interest ; the former they tried
in vain to remove, and they eagerly inquired of what skins the
latter was made.

By this time the officers of both ships had surrounded them,
while the bow of the Isabella, which was close to the ice, was
crowded with the crew ; and, certainly, a more ludicrous, yet
interesting, scene was never beheld, than that which took
place whilst they were viewing the ship ; nor is it possible to
convey to the imagination any thing like a just representation
of the wild amazement, joy, and fear, which successively
pervaded the countenances, and governed the gestures, of these
creatures, who gave full vent to their feelings ; and, I am sure,
it was a gratifying scene, which never can be forgotten by those
who witnessed and enjoyed it.

Their shouts, halloos, and laughter, were heartily joined in,
and imitated by all hands, as well as the ceremony of nose
pulling, which could not fail to increase our mirth on the
occasion. That which most of all excited their admiration,
was the circumstance of a sailor going aloft, and they kept
their eyes on him till he reached the summit of the mast ; the

^i&^^^L<^A^^<L:Jf^^±^JLJ^l. \&- J.

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS

sails, which hung loose, they naturally supposed were skins. August 10.

Lat. 75° 55' N

Their attention being again called to the boat, where the car- ' 650 ^ w
penter's hammer and nails still remained, they were shown the
use of these articles ; and no sooner were they aware of their
purposes, than they shewed a desire to possess them, and were
accordingly presented with some nails. They now accom-
panied us to that part of the bow from which a rope-ladder was
suspended, and the mode of mounting it was shewn them, but
it was a considerable time ere we could prevail on them to
ascend it. At length the senior, who always led the way,
went up, and was followed by the rest. The new wonders
that now surrounded them on every side caused fresh astonish-
ment, which, after a moment's suspense, always terminated in
loud and hearty laughter.

The most frequent ejaculation of surprise was Heigh ! yaw !
and, when particularly excited by any more remarkable
object than the rest, they pronounced the first syllable of the
interjection many times, with peculiar rapidity and emphasis,
extending wide their arms, and looking at each other at the
end of the exclamation, with open mouths, as if in breathless
consternation.

Their knowledge of wood seemed to be limited to some
heath of a dwarfish growth, with stems no thicker than the
finger, and accordingly they knew not what to think of the
timber they saw on board. Not being aware of its weight,
two or three of them, successively, seized on the spare top-mast,
evidently with the view of carrying it off ; and as soon as they

N 2

'Hi 1

F''--!

^«.-r-^aw.^-.. -^.^.Kw-.^ ^^r^^.^yfia

.V^wl^WnL JUi^a.W^JJ KJASJ WL^*U .U.U^k

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

became familiar with the people around them, they shewed that
desire of possessing what they admired, which is so universal
among savages. The only thing they looked on with con-
tempt was a little terrier dog, judging, no doubt, that it was
too small for drawing a sledge ; but they shrunk back,
as if in terror, from a pig, whose pricked ears, and ferocious
aspect, being of the Shetland breed, presented a somewhat
formidable appearance. This animal happening to grunt, one
of them was so terrified, that he became from that moment
uneasy, and appeared impatient to get out of the ship. In
carrying his purpose into effect, however, he did not lose his
propensity to thieving, as he seized and endeavoured to carry
off the smith's anvil; finding that he could not remove it, he
laid hold of the large hammer, threw it on the ice, and, follow-
ing it himself, deliberately set it on his sledge, and made off.
As this was an article I could not spare, I sent a person to
recover it, who followed him, hallooing, and soon got pretty
near him. Seeing that he must be overtaken, he artfully sunk
it in the snow, and went on with the sledge, by which we were
convinced that he knew he was doing wrong. The seaman, on
finding the hammer, left off the pursuit, and returned, while he
went off, and was seen no more that day. Shortly after,
another of them, who had received a present, consisting of a
small hammer and some nails, left the ship also, and putting
his acquisition upon the remaining sledge, dragged it away
with him, and disappeared.

Among other amusements afforded to the officers and men

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

on board, by their trials on the inexperience of the natives, August 10.
was the effect produced on them, by seeing; their faces in aTat ,. „

r J ° Long. 65° 32 W.

magnifying mirror. Their grimaces were highly entertaining,
while, like monkeys, they looked first into it, and then behind,
in hopes of finding the monster which was exaggerating
their hideous gestures. A watch was also held to the ear of
one, who, supposing it alive, asked if it was good to eat.
On being shewn the glass of the skylight and binnacle, they
touched it, and desired to know what kind of ice it was.
During this scene, one of them wandered to the main hatch-
way, and, stooping down, saw the serjeant of marines, whose
red coat produced a loud exclamation of wonder ; while his
own attitude and figure did not less excite the surprise, of our
tars, who, for the first time, discovered some unexpected
peculiarities in the dress of the natives.

The three men remaining were now handed down to my
cabin, and shewn the use of the chairs, which they did not
comprehend, appearing to have no notion of any other seat
than the ground. Being seated, we attempted to take their
portraits, in which Lieutenant Hopner, Mr. Skene, Mr. Bush-
nan, and myself, were, at the same time, employed. During
this attempt, fearful it might alarm them, we amused them
with questions, collecting from them, at the same time, the
information we thought it desirable to obtain ; and directing
Sacheuse to ask those questions which the hurried nature
of this visit permitted us to recollect as most essential, and
of which the result will appear hereafter. Our drawings being

II..:

•ztnfrr-rxj*.-^**; asMT^,-..*

f%^!!£5Z?*3ZSZyZF*i!^^!*&*S*

S^^SBCTSESS^SSR^^JCTTS

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

n-it-i -f

August 10.
Lat. 75° 55' N.
Long. 65° 32' W.

completed, and interrogatories ended, they began to be very
inquisitive, asking the use of every thing in the cabin; we
shewed them paper, books, drawings, and various mathematical
instruments, which produced only the usual effect of astonish-
ing them ; but, on being shewn the prints in Cook's Voyage,
of the natives of Otaheite, they attempted to grasp them,
evidently comprehending that they were the representations of
human beings. The sight of a writing-desk, a bureau, and
of other wooden furniture, also excited their astonishment, but
apparently from the nature of the material only, as they
seemed to form no idea of their uses.

They were now conducted to the gun-room, and afterwards
round the ship, but without appearing to distinguish any thing
particularly, except the wood in her construction, stamping on
the deck, as if in evident surprise at the quantity of this
valuable material. In hopes of amusing them, the violin was
sent for, and some tunes were played ; they, however, paid no
attention to this, seeming quite unconcerned, either about the
sounds or the performer ; a sufficient proof that the love of
music is an acquired taste, and that it requires experience to
distinguish between that and other similar noises. A flute was
afterwards sounded for them, which seemed to excite somewhat
more attention ; probably from resembling more nearly in
shape the objects to which they were accustomed ; one of thern
put it to his mouth and blew on it, but immediately threw it
away. On returning to the cabin some biscuit was produced,
and a piece eaten by Sacheuse before presenting it to them.

■>>i~>firwU>*-rWUA«41JUlJ!r Ji U-i-

4A*.

r&~ SiS^VP ^i^<^v>'^?55!^^^?^H^S^5T,^^R^^B^T^ y.^^it i Mr^l&L . #3-

,-••

«0

■

^^a^-^^UlULL^di - k± is

^taarf-B---lin>l^^t>i^lliaM

SiUSS^.Sl^^JV^- "Hv^-J^d^-^lc^

J^'A U^JJ UU*J .UJU-U..^^

il I

ARCTIC IIGMANBE1,

s>?/4

W I

-&pe."JJfy. *&*&

■ .-re//. .

?df/

Z„nden, -Puii-r/Mi J,w:'j&y-tyIMiirmy.Jliaii<irU .Jiraf

WgaRgg^ggggfc^P'frg.o; r~^J^£»5«M* ^ .*»i''

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

One of them then took a piece also into his mouth, but almost August 10.
immediately spat it out with apparent disgust. Some salt- Bt 7A55,N'

1 rr & Long. 65° 32 W.

meat, that was afterwards offered, produced the same effect.
We now also ascertained their names, that of the eldest being
Ervick, and that of the two others, who were his brother's sons,
Marshuick and Otooniah. Some jugglers' tricks were afterwards
exhibited by Mr. Beverly, which seemed to disconcert them, as
they became uneasy, and expressed a wish to go on deck. We
accordingly accompanied them, and, by pointing to the pieces
of ice that were alongside, attempted to discover to what extent
they could count, for the purpose of ascertaining the numbers of
their nation. We found, however, they could only reckon to
ten; and, on inquiring, therefore, if their country possessed as
many inhabitants as there were pieces of ice, they replied,

Many more:" a thousand fragments were, perhaps, then
floating round the ship.

The knives had by this time been examined by the armourer,
who thought they were made from pieces of iron hoop, or from
flattened nails; we, therefore, asked, if any plank or wreck had
formerly been driven on their shore ; to which they replied, that
a piece of wood with some nails had come on shore, and been
picked up. We, therefore, concluded, that the knives which
they had left with us had been formed from this iron, and con-
sequently made no further inquiries.

They were now loaded with various presents, consisting of
some articles of clothing, biscuit, and pieces of wood, in
addition to which the plank that had been used in crossing the

J.1I1..A W^U U«J

\^^^

^1?^^

^S^Clifc^^^^A^-^v*^ jW*W

S^TR>*^,n-^ -_»^^NT»C: U?!5^5?

■

it UMI

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

August 10.
Lat. 75° 55' N.
Long. 65° 32' W,

chasm was given to them. They then departed, promising to
return as soon as they had eaten and slept, as we had no means
of explaining to them what to-morrow meant. The parting
was attended with the ceremony of pulling noses on both sides.
After they had reached and crossed the chasm, they were
observed by some men, who had been sent to accompany them,
throwing away the biscuit, and splitting the plank, which was of
teak, into small pieces, for the purpose of dividing it among the
party. Soon after this they mounted their sledges, and drove
off in a body hallooing, apparently in great glee.

. ^ESESMN^TMBiSW1? ^ ?&&&$&&&$,

*m%

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

CHAPTER VI.

THE SHIPS OBLIGED TO LEAVE THEIR MOORINGS— FURTHER COM-
MUNICATION WITH THE NATIVES DISCOVERY OF PRINCE REGENT'S

BAY AND DEPARTURE FROM IT.

: I

Aug. 11. 1 HE drifting of the ice this morning apprized us August n.
of an approaching southerly breeze, and made our situation Lat- 75° 55' n.
no longer tenable ; we were, therefore, obliged to cast loose, °nS"
and, after passing through several narrow channels and much
loose ice, we advanced seven miles further to the westward, and
fortunately found a place of safety under the lee of a very
large iceberg which lay aground in one hundred and fifty
fathoms. No sooner were both ships fast, than a tremendous
floe of ice, with two small bergs in it, came in contact with
the large berg, the corner of which was raised several feet ;
a huge piece of the precipice was broken off by the con-
cussion, and fell with a dreadful crash, breaking the ice
below it, and raising a wave that rent the floe in pieces for
several hundred yards, and made the ships roll considerably.

The ice then took a circular motion, and completely closed
the spot which we had left but a few minutes before. During
the whole day the ice continued to drift, and a heavy fall

^^^T^^P^^f^C^

*»T2«

f!^n?2J

s^-n;^^ jv:

^mV* vj

fpw^wffw

:rSK-^-*.c

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVER!

August 11. of snow coming on, the land could not be seen : it began, however,

:.
Long.

fi 0 " to clear at midnight, and a bottle, containing an account of our

proceedings, was here left on the floating ice.

During this day we made some attempts to discover from
Sacheuse what further particulars he had learned respecting
the natives ; the hurry of the preceding day having prevented
us from conversing so fully with him as we could have wished.
Among other less important particulars, we found that they had
sent their women and children to the mountains, and that
their original intention of coming to the ships was, to request
us to go away, and not to destroy them : they also informed
him, that they had watched for some time, to see whether
the ships would fly to the sun or the moon, from one of which
they concluded we must have come. One of their companions
had been so much alarmed, that he ran off to the mountains,
and had not returned.

We also found, what he had forgotten to tell us before,
that the iron was procured from a mountain near the shore.
They had informed him that there was a rock of it, or more,
(for it could not at this time be ascertained which), and
that they cut off it, with a sharp stone, the pieces from which
the blades of their knives were made. We now, therefore,
had much reason to regret that Captain Sabine, and the
party who had, on the morning of the 9th, landed on that
which Mr. Bushnan had determined to be an island, had
not proceeded further, and that they did not examine the
mountains, where it now appeared that this iron was found.

£%>«Bg^ffSgifcg|fr3> . :r"^W?JWft5-WS5i«"

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

On minute inquiry it had, indeed, been discovered, that the August n.

Lat 75° 55' N.

island in question was close to the land, and attached to it by Lon„ 65 32> w
ice ; and that the mountain containing the iron rose immediately
from it, so as to have rendered this examination sufficiently prac-
ticable. We had now, however, passed it a considerable distance,
and the weather and the ice both were in a state too unsettled to
permit my sending parties to any distance from the ship.

August 12. The first part of this day was sufficiently clear to
allow of our getting good observations, for time, variations, and
latitude ; and having taken accurate bearings of the land, which
I found to form a spacious bay, I named it after the Prince
Regent, in commemoration of His Royal Highnesses birth-day.
It was observed by the usual celebration of hoisting flags and
colours, and I also ordered a salute of musquetry to be fired ;
for, besides the irreparable injury that might be done to the
chronometers, by the concussion of great guns, I was desirous
that the natives, whose habitations were only six or seven miles
distant, should not be alarmed. We continued blockaded by
ice, and unable to make any progress the whole day, during
the remainder of which we had both rain and snow, with
appearance of unsettled weather. Two or three natives were
seen at a great distance, but none ventured near the ship. We
sounded here in one hundred and fifty fathoms water, and tried
the temperature of the water here at various depths, the account
of which will be found in the Appendix.

August 13. On the following morning, light airs to the east-
ward, and a rapid disappearance of the ice, raised our hopes

^^^^C^^T^C- Jt'/JiP'

55^2^5

2*-Si«^ JVJ'-.SivCL Jt4*r'*VMXL

JULA iU — i^

SWksO^lWStfwl^- i*5«

,,.J

. ■

August 13.
Lat. 75° 54' N.
Long. 65° 32' W.

100

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

of proceeding. Early in the forenoon a passage opened along
the land ice, and the wind backing to the south, we trusted to
find a better place of shelter further on. The berg by which we
had been protected having separated in several pieces, we cast
off and made sail, and having proceeded ten miles to the
westward, we were stopped by a barrier of large floes and
bergs, which seemed to extend from the land to the main ice ;
the icebergs appearing to be aground, and very near to each
other. To the northward of them some clear water was to be
seen from the mast-head, and, it appeared to me, that the land
was trending to the north. Our First Lieutenant and Master
saw land from the mast-head, bearing true W.S.W. The
atmosphere was extremely clear, and all distant objects seemed
wonderfully raised by refraction. The sun passing in azimuth,
served to delineate them on the horizon in a distinct and
beautiful manner ; the reflections of light on the icebergs were
peculiarly splendid, the emerald, sapphire, and orange, being the
prevailing colours. It was afterwards ascertained, that the land
seen by these officers, as well as by several seamen, from the mast-
head, must have been at the immense distance of one hundred
and forty miles. The ice was now closing in upon us, the
weather had every appearance of a gale, and we lost no time
in seeking a place of shelter, which we were fortunate enough
to find close to an iceberg, that was firmly secured to the land
ice. In this there was a small bay, in which we were made
fast, and were very soon beset, as we expected.

During the three last days we had seen a vast number of

*£*

^lZ8ZSS&&?SnS&XGP^.Vtt*.&iE&? S»B»S5«

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

101

whales, which sometimes came up alongside of the ship to August 13.
respire, and did not seem at all alarmed ; we saw also some sea ^at' l50 34, „r'

Long. 65 .53 W.

unicorns ; and in the mornings and evenings the pools of water
were literally swarming with little awks, hundreds of which were
daily shot.

We had not remained long at our new moorings, before we
were gratified by the appearance of three of the natives at a
distance. Preparations were accordingly made for continuing
our intercourse, if they should prove to be the same that had
been with us, or for obtaining a parley if they should turn out
to be strangers.

The flag-staff, as on a former occasion, was, therefore, pitched
at some distance from the ships, and the natives were shortly
seen to approach it, without much hesitation or alarm. They
were observed to take down the bag, which was attached to it ;
but after examining the contents, they restored them to their
place, and returned to their sledges. Sacheuse was then
furnished with presents, and sent to speak with them. He
found immediately that they were not our old friends, but other
natives, who had received from them a good report of us,
together with the history of our being people that lived beyond
the ice, and that this had prevented any alarm at our ap-
pearance.

On receiving this account, I went with Lieutenant Parry to
the place of communication, and performed the ceremonies
already described, assuring them of our friendship, and inviting
them on board.

/ m r_ .

.U-1..A IH^J. U.

rd^^R^J'SCSSrSfisiSSRSra&IHBSbj

■^k.

JK^HiaCL jT-iS^fK*:

102

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

August 13.
Lat. 75° 54' N.
Long. 65° 53' W.

It being proposed that they should drive close to the ship
on their sledges, for this purpose the eldest got into his sledge,
and we had thus an opportunity of witnessing the mode in which
he managed his dogs. These were six in number, each having
a collar of seal skin, two inches wide, to which the one end
of a thong, made of strong hide, about three yards long, was
tied; the other end being fastened to the fore part of the
sledge : thus they all stood nearly abreast, each drawing by a
single trace, without reins. No sooner did they hear the crack
of the whip, than they set off at full speed, while he seemed
to manage them with the greatest ease, guiding them partly by
his voice, and partly by the sound of the whip. On ap-
proaching our sailors, however, they became so terrified, that
it was with some difficulty they could be stopped. They were
at length fastened to the ice, and one of the younger men, who
had come up behind, was left in charge of the whole.

They were much delighted with the presents that were now
given to them ; but as it appeared that they had seen those we
had given to the first party, their surprise was not to be compared
to that which we had already witnessed. In return I received
a spear, made of the sea unicorn's horn, with a sledge,
made chiefly of the bones of the seal, tied together with
thongs of seal skin, the runners, or lower pieces, being formed
of sea unicorns' horn. In the subjoined plate the form and
dimensions of both these articles will be found. I also pur-
chased from them a dog, but with some difficulty, as they
seemed very averse to part with it. I chose the one which

5*5^l^2PT?^^?^T5^T5^??^^^!5^!ff^B^5^^^^5ffI^—^P!^^^>5^!^^T^^^^^755

>«

hi -

' ». . -•

ik-£Ji.

JES®«WWKW»M

'*^J^SMSKS5:fi

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

103

appeared to Mr. Parry and me the handsomest. In examining August is.
them we found that three of them had lost each an eye; these, as Lat 75° 54' N
the natives informed us, having been accidents from the lash of ^
the whip. The dog was bound, and led on by one of the sailors,
and an excellent portrait was made of him by Mr. Skene
which will be found among the engravings. The animal was
some time afterwards, unfortunately, washed overboard in a
gale *.

The other two natives now accompanied us to the ship, and
were much astonished at every thing they saw; but it was
evident that they had been prepared to see wonders by our
former visitors, as they were by no means so clamorous.

The party consisted of the father, a man about forty years
of age, whose name was Meigack, and his two sons: the one
who accompanied him, a lad of seventeen, was called Kawei-
gack, the name of the younger, who remained with the sledge,
was not discovered. Meigack was now taken down into the
cabin, and informed us he had a wife, three sons, and a
daughter; that, in the summer season, they came from
Petowack to this place, which was called Ackullowissick, to
catch seals and sea unicorns, and to procure iron ; and that
they returned when the sun left them. He promised to
bring his wife to see the ship, but Sacheuse was of opinion
that he did not mean to keep his promise, which turned out

* The peculiarities of this variety, and the few circumstances in which it differs
from the common Esquimaux dog, will be found in the Appendix.

i'ffl

>£^^T^^T5^1?^^2P

SCEK^^^^a^hjvcl jt>i*^"swcc:

3.-U..A U^. I

**r*&^j . !*i

Mil ,,/

104

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

August is. eventually to be the case. He was now interrogated respecting
Lat. 75° 54 N. ^ ^ron ^^ which his knife was edged, and informed us that it

Long. 65° 53' W.

was found in the mountain before mentioned ; that it was in
several large masses, of which one in particular, which was
harder than the rest, was a part of the mountain ; that the
others were in large pieces above ground, and not of so
hard a nature ; that they cut it off with a hard stone, and then
beat it flat into pieces of the size of a sixpence, but of an
oval shape. As the place where this metal was found, which
is called Sowallick, was at least twenty-five miles distant, and
the weather very unsettled, I could not venture to send
another party to examine it, being uncertain how soon we
might be forced from our present situation. I, therefore,
offered high rewards, and pressed Meigack to bring us some
specimens of it, which he readily promised. His portrait was
then taken by Mr. Skene and Mr. Hoppner ; and we obtained,
by means of Sacheuse, much information, the substance of
which will be found in its proper place.

They shewed the same dislike to bread as the others had
done ; and on some spirits and wine being offered to them,
they expressed still greater aversion, putting away the glass
as soon as it had reached their lips. A wine-glass excited
Meigack's curiosity very much, on which he was immediately
presented with one, and when we inquired to what purpose
he meant to apply it, he said it was intended for his wife ;
when he went on deck, he tied it, together with some pieces
of iron which had been given him, to the back of his sledge,

Z^&V&BSS&&S$&>Z&tt . ~-^J^JM5WMW£

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

105

appearing to have forgotten that he had sold it to me. August 13.
Before quitting the ship, we explained to his satisfaction, that Lat' 7'5 54 N'

n & r r ' Long. 65° 53 W.

he had sold his sledge, and, taking the wine-glass from it,
explained that it was easily broken.

When on deck, as he was about to leave us, he pointed to
his house, which was opposite to the ship, about three miles
distant, and could be discerned with the telescope ; he in-
formed us that the headland we saw furthest to the north,
which was six miles off, was called Inmallick, and agreed that
on the other side of it there was clear water. Having made
both of them presents, consisting of a small harpoon, with
some pieces of Avood and of iron, I repeated my entreaties
that they would bring specimens of the iron, having reason
to believe from their account, that the rocks from which they
had procured it were masses of meteoric iron. They promised
to return when they had eaten and slept, together with more
of their countrymen, and the iron I wanted.

It was about three o'clock when they departed, highly
pleased, like the former party, with their reception. The
ice being covered with small protuberant bergs we soon lost
sight of them as they drove away towards the shore, to gain
which, we saw that they were obliged to follow a very
circuitous route; we easily perceived that this arose from a
number of pools and chasms in the ice, as it was evident that
we were only three or four miles from the land in a direct
line.

During the whole of this day the weather had a very

1 1 " ' n

August 14.
Lat. 75° 54' N.
Long. 65° 53' W.

106

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

unsettled appearance, and towards the evening the wind in-
creased to a strong gale, attended with a heavy fall of snow,
which, during the night, obscured the land ; but, at three,
after a shower of rain, it cleared away, and a hard frost
succeeded, and the land was again discovered. We were
completely beset with heavy ice, but the iceberg under which
we had taken shelter defended us from its pressure. In
order to determine whether or not any current existed here,
and what the depth of water was, and its temperature at
different depths, the necessary experiments were made, and
soundings were obtained in four hundred and fifty-five fathoms,
by the deep-sea clamms, which brought up a quantity of mud;
it is worthy of remark, that here, as on the whole of this coast
northward of 70°, we found the water deepest when nearest
the land, and that no current was found.

August 14. The weather continuing clear, we had good azi-
muths ; I made also several observations on the deviation of
the magnetic needle, wrhich will be found in the Appendix.
In the mean time boats were sent to procure water-fowl, and,
in a short time they returned with three hundred of the little
awks, which were, as usual, served to the ship's company.

At two in the afternoon a party of ten natives were seen
approaching the ship on their sledges ; Mr. Parry, Sacheuse,
and I went out to meet them, and among them we were glad
to recognise three of those with whom we had first commu-
nicated ; the one who had purloined the hammer, Marshuick,
and Otooniah, together with Meigack, his two sons, and three

r^^^^:«g^*:'"yTK-^ :>^-^r ->'%^£^ ^-^p"

5SES£»

33E33S&5F

'*~A-<

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS,

107

others whose faces were new to us. They now came forward, August u.
not only without alarm, but without ceremony, both the pullino- LaL 73° 54' N-

i i ii- i ii- t , ., & Long. 65° 53' W.

noses and the shaking hands being dispensed with; and, having
with them a seal-skin made into a bag and filled with air
they began to kick it at each other and at us ; in this play
we heartily joined, to the great amusement' of both parties.
This inflated seal-skin was what they had been usino- as a
buoy to their harpoon, and we found they had killed
a sea-unicorn during the night, about three miles to the
south-eastward of the ships ; we immediately asked for its
horn, to which they replied, it was a female, and that it had
none. We now invited them to the ship, and they accom-
panied us without hesitation. No sooner were they on board
than they proceeded both to beg and steal, laying hands
on every small piece of wood they met with, and pocketting
every nail they could find about the ship. I procured from
them a sledge of the same description as the former, and
a couple of knives. They also gave me a piece of sea-unicorn's
flesh, dried, and which appeared to have been parched, or
half roasted, as it bore marks of the fire. I attempted, in vain,
to procure another dog from them, but they could not be
persuaded to part with him. We had already seen them
eat the dried flesh of the sea-unicorn, and had now an op-
portunity of discovering that they had no scruple of eating
raw flesh in any state. One of them who had a bag full
of little awks, took out one in our presence, and devoured it
raw ; but on being asked if this was a common practice, they

p 2

"T. -r — r r-^s^ir -jbe^ ^-^^^^T-^a^-are-^

H ,41

108

A VOYAGE 01' DISCOVEKY

August 14. informed us they only eat them in this state when they had

Lat. 75° 54' N. r ,

t a ■ o* „, .,r no convenience tor cookery.

Long. 6a° 53 W. ^

The whole party had now assembled at the edge of the
ice nearest the ship, but as she was moored about twenty yards
off, it became necessary to embark in a boat in order to get on
board ; this was accordingly proposed, and after I had gone in
and out of it several times, to shew them that there was no
danger, they acceded, and stepped in, but with much
reluctance and apprehension, and when the sailors made the
boat roll from side to side their fears were extreme. After they
had got safely on board, and had spent some time, helping
themselves (as was before mentioned) to whatever appeared
portable, Meigack, his two sons, and the three strangers, were
shewn into the cabin, and many questions were put to them,
the substance of which will appear hereafter, together with the
rest of the information that was collected at different times.
We then tried to discover if they had among them any
amusements, such as music or dancing ; and, after some
difficulty, succeeded in persuading two of the strangers, who, we
were made to understand, were nephews of Ervik, to give us a
specimen of their dancing. One of them accordingly began
immediately to distort his face, and turn up his eyes in a
manner so exactly resembling the appearance of a person in
a fit of epilepsy, that we were convinced this accident had
happened, and I was about to call for assistance from the
surgeon. I was, however, soon undeceived, as he immediately
proceeded to execute, in succession, a variety of extraordinary

^^^^-^^-**s^^^;^

frtawFr^j^ffry,

tfiS&S!^

LtXr&S+x?- +in$J9H7

mam

J±* 3

WTT

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

109

gestures and attitudes, accompanied by the most hideous August u.
distortions of countenance. Like the similar amusements of'rat' 15n 4 *

Long. 65 53 W.

very different climates, these contained the indecent allusions
which are well known to form an essential feature in the dances
of many nations, in other respects far advanced in civilization.
The body was generally in a stooping posture, and the hands
resting on the knees. After a few minutes the performer began
to sing " Amnah ajah*, and in a very short time the second per-
former, who had been looking at the other in silence, began,
as if inspired, to distort his face, and imitate the indelicate
attitudes of the first, and soon after to sing as chorus, " Hejaw,
hejaw. After this had continued with increasing energy for
ten minutes, the tune was suddenly changed to a shrill note, in
which the words " Weehee, wehee," were uttered with great
rapidity. They then approached each other, by slipping their
feet forward, grinning, and in great agitation, until their noses
touched, when a savage laugh ended this extraordinary per-
formance. Encore ! was of course the cry from all beholders,
and when it was explained that we wished them to perform a
second time, they readily assented, and with much good
humour repeated it. Meigack, in the mean time, seeing the
attention of every one engaged, took occasion to steal into my
state room, and purloined ray best telescope, a case of razors,
and a pair of scissors, which he artfully concealed in his tunick,
rejoining the party and the amusements as if nothing had

51 This song, which has no interpretation, is described in Krantz's E^ede.

;

^nex^^t^^^***^

KM)

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

August 14.
Lat. 75° 54' N.
Long. 65° 53' W.

itjijl

happened. He, however, did not escape the vigilance of my
steward, who followed him on deck, charged him with stealing
the articles, and made him return them, which he did without
hesitation. After Meigack went on deck, I had some conver-
sation with one of the dancers, who, we found, was an
" angekok," or conjuror, the substance of which will be here-
after mentioned. Having found fault with Meigack for not
bringing his wife to see us, he eagerly inquired if our nation
consisted wholly of men, or if we had women with us. Upon
this I shewed him a miniature I had of Mrs. Ross, at which they
were much surprised, and for some time seemed to think that
the image which presented itself was alive. A thought seemed
then suddenly to strike them, that the ladies might be in the
other ship, upon which they all set off for the Alexander,
which lay alongside of the ice, about two hundred yards from
the Isabella ; but finding their mistake, they soon returned to
us, evidently disappointed. A parcel was, in the mean time,
made up, consisting of some articles of clothing, looking-glasses,
knives, coins, and a snuff-box, on which was a portrait of His
Royal Highness the Prince Regent, as a present to their king,
Tulloowah ; these were put into a canvass bag ; but Sacheuse
having inquired of some of the party, respecting the probability
of its being delivered, it was found that their propensity to
pilfering rendered this project hopeless. I, therefore, altered
my intentions, looking forward to the period, when we might
ourselves pay him a visit. I now explained to Meigack and
his sons, as well as to his companions, how much I was disap-

~ ■ » ' i TT TillP yr I iTTlO lTTn iTW

>*r^n>Ufc«r-s

&&^Z^^S^^4n^Jrl^AJ,ll^J J

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

Ill

pointed by his failing to perform the promise he had made August 14.

. , . C ' . . . Lat. 75° 54' N.

me, respecting the iron, and repeating my entreaties to them Lonff 65o 5V w

for some specimens ; I shewed them a large harpoon and a

lance, also a large piece of a broken spar, all of which I

promised to give them in return for it ; and, at the same time,

assured them, that none of them should be permitted to come

on board, nor should any thing be given them until they

brought it. This they promised to do, and to return with it,

and with some of their wearing apparel, as soon as they

could ; but we were at the same time informed, that as the

mountain was at a considerable distance, they would have to

sleep twice before they could return with it. They now

mounted their sledges, and drove oft' in different directions, by

circuitous routes, towards the land.

In the evening the weather had a very stormy appearance,
the wind continued to blow from the east, and the drifting of
the floes had considerably accumulated the ice which formed
the barrier to the north, and, at the same time, rendered it
doubtful if we could maintain our situation much longer ; as it
was, therefore, necessary to keep all hands on board, for the
safety of the ship, it became impossible for me to detach a party
to the shore.

We had snow during the night, and the ice continued to
beset us throughout a great part of the following day, till
it was at length somewhat thawed by a heavy fall of rain.
In the afternoon we were visited by the natives who had been
on board the preceding day, with the exception of Meigack

Ik 1 1

112

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

i"-

1 '

August 15. and his family, and also by other two whom we had not
Lat. 75° 54 N. seen before. As they brought neither the iron nor the articles

Long. 65°54'W.

of dress they had promised, I gave orders thai they should
not be permitted to come on board, or to receive any presents.
They said they had been at Inmallick (the headland to the
northward), to procure stones for the purpose of cutting oft*
the iron from the rock ; and they gave us one of these stones,
which appeared to be a basalt, and also a little of the dried
moss, in a state ready for trimming their lamps. We learnt
also, that there was water clear of ice on the northern side of
the Cape, which intelligence could not fail to raise our
spirits with the hopes of making some progress as soon as we
found ourselves able to move from our present position.
Finding they were not permitted to come on board, they
became noisy and impertinent : but Sacheuse having told them
that our cmgekok would cause the ice to separate, and prevent
their return if they did not go, they departed, promising to
bring the iron without delay.

In the evening the weather moderated, and, at length, it
became quite calm ; the ice then separated, and so much of
it dissolved, that the pool of water in which the ship was
lying, increased to an extent of three miles each way. As
soon as it was thus cleared, the awks were seen flying in
clouds towards it, and soon covered the whole surface of
the water. We found that they came to feed on the same
insects as the whale, and observed them devouring the beroes
and cancers with which the water was crowded. Numerous

r»^r-rt

rea^L^^rre

■■: '

^or^^^^.'>^^^.>^-^^a^ifjij-.i.-

> 1 1! ifmi

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

113

whales were also observed engaged in the same pursuit, August 16.

Lat. 75° 57' i
Long. 66° 22' W.

and here the fishery might be pursued with success. Two at

boats were despatched from each ship, to procure as many
as possible of these birds, for the purpose of preserving
them in ice: at midnight our boats returned with about
fifteen hundred, having, on an average, killed fifteen at
each shot. The boats of the Alexander were nearly as
successful ; three birds were afterwards daily served to each
man, and they were found, among other ways of dressing
them, to make excellent soup, not unlike, or at all inferior,
to that made of a hare.

Aug. 16. This morning the large iceberg, which had so
long defended us from the drift-ice and from the gale,
separated from the land-ice, and took a direction to the
southward. The wind at the same time sprung up from
the N.E., and we made fast to a floe, in order to observe
the motion of the ice. After divine service, we had a good
meridian altitude of the sun, and some observations on the
dip of the needle ; we also tried Mr. Troughton's instrument
for ascertaining the magnetic dip, but obtained no satisfactory
result. At four o'clock the ice had sufficiently opened to
warrant us in attempting a passage to the northward. Being
very anxious, however, not to quit this place, if possible,
without some further communication with the natives, I sent a
man to the mast-head to look out, that I might know if there
was any prospect of their speedy arrival. Unfortunately none

)' ;

■hll

.ill '

114

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

ft l«

August 16. were to be seen ; and feeling it, therefore, my duty to quit
Lat. 75° 57' N. ^-g position and to pursue, without loss of time, the main

Long. 66° 24' W. r

object of the expedition, I gave to this country the name of
the Arctic Highlands ; and, casting loose from the ice, made sail
from Prince Regent's Bay.

I :

ro^SS^^^^^^^^r^^RKB^ygp

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

115

CHAPTER VII.

THE ARCTIC HIGHLANDS NATURE OF THE COUNTRY ITS PRODUCE

INHABITANTS LANGUAGE MODE OF LIVING MANNERS AND

CUSTOMS — RELIGION.

1 HE country, to which I have given the name of Arctic Situation of the
Highlands, is situated in the north-east corner of Baffin's Bay,
between the latitudes of 76° and 77° 40' N., and the longitudes
of 60° and 72° west, thus extending on the sea-shore for one
hundred and twenty miles in aN.W. direction ; the breadth,
where widest, does not exceed twenty miles, and towards the
extremities is reduced to nothing. It is bounded on the
south by an immense barrier of mountains covered with ice,
which takes its rise in latitude 74° 30', and extends to 76a
north. As far as could be judged from the ships, this barrier
is impassable, and in many places the solid ice extends for
several miles into the sea from the precipices with which it is
connected. The interior country presents an irregular group
of mountainous land, declining gradually from the high ridge
before mentioned towards the sea, which it reaches in an
irregular manner, and still at a considerable elevation ; the
sea-cliffs ranging from five hundred to one thousand feel

Q 2

116

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

Nature of the
Country.

in height. This tract is almost entirely covered with ice,
and appeared to be impassable.

On the surface of the land, above the cliffs, a scanty appear-
ance of vegetation, of a yellowish green colour, and sometimes
of a heath brown, was to be seen ; and, at the foot of the cliffs,
similar traces of a Avretched verdure were also apparent.
Among the cliffs are seen deep ravines filled with snow, through
which the marks of torrents were perceptible ; these cliffs run
out in many places into capes, and are skirted by islands which
are clear of sea ice, and therefore washed by the waves.
Hence, it probably happens, that the snow does not lie there, and
thus they assume the appearance of the verdure just described.
This coast is, therefore, the resort of wild fowl in the breeding
season ; and, from its exposure to the sea winds, must be
sooner and longer open than the more southern parts which
are narrower ; and where the water is shallower, for the same
reasons, it must be both sooner and later the resort of seals and
sea-unicorns.

The boundary of this region must be placed to the northward
of Whale Sound at Cape Robertson ; from that cape towards
the north the mountains rise immediately from the sea, with
a rapid ascent, and form a ridge similar to that which takes
its rise at Cape Melville. Thus it is enclosed on all sides, and
precluded from all possibility of communication by land with
any other inhabitants of this country, should there be any to
the eastward of them.

With respect to the geology of this country, it is impossible

■ir-^^^ft^J.tTSWBWi'-V

I'utoi.tftffj u.r i/if ./«/ t/J/'eotJ- %f. ff&? l8ty tyJt'/w Jfumiy JiAwnUtri* SOm&Lcrufyft

u rma**rJc*#ii

:-y v.^..; >^->^- -«^&e^T^:^

■■ i^&sKF

.^KKmFSgZF?r1&Xgm£%g5^Z&S£-SZ*!g%£ZIEZ3P3^

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

117

to do more than to offer some conjectures, our Naturalist being Nature of the
unfortunately unacquainted with this subject. As far as could Country-
be judged, the cliffs appeared, wherever they were exposed,
to present an appearance of stratification, the lines of separation
of the strata seeming to occupy high angles. The general
outline and character of the country also appeared to bespeak
the general existence of primary rocks, from the summits of
the most distant ridge to the lowest skirts of the strata. This
conjecture is strengthened by the nature of the few specimens
collected, which, as may be seen in the list, seem almost
entirely limited to gniess, a circumstance to be expected from
the stratified appearance already described. The granite, it
will be seen, is supposed, in the remarks which accompany
that list, to be the produce of veins ; besides these two sub-
stances, there is a specimen of porphyry from Cape Melville,
which is, in all probability, a fragment from a vein. At
Cape York, it is probable, that some members of the trap
family exist, although it is impossible to determine under
what form, as a solitary specimen only was found, and that
was a rounded pebble; it is a very compact and fine-
grained greenstone, of a somewhat porphyritic character, and
is the rock used by the natives (already mentioned), for
the purpose of cutting the fragments of iron from the masses
of that substance.

The most important mineral production of this country, is
the iron already described, which is found only at Sowallick,
or the Iron Mountains. The circumstances attending this have

"■'!.::: >

,!•*•

., :

--->— -*

118

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

yi H I |

Produce of the already been described ; and it is now only necessary to add,
Country. ^^ ^ ^ keen exammeci by Dr. Wollaston, and found to

contain nickel; and that it is probably of meteoric origin, since
all the masses hitherto found in different places, which
are equally attributed to this, are distinguished by that
peculiarity.

The vegetable productions of this country may be said to
consist of heath, moss, and coarse grass, a particular account
of which is given in the Appendix. There is nothing like
cultivation, nor did it appear that the natives make use of
vegetable food ; scanty and limited as it is, however, it is not
Avithout its use ; the moss, which is found in greatest plenty,
is six or eight inches in length, and when dried and immersed
in the oil or blubber of the seal or sea-unicorn, serves for a
wick, and produces a comfortable fire for cooking and warmth,
as well as for light. The heath and grass serve for food and
shelter for the hares and game which, the natives informed us,
were in abundance; and the stems of heath tied together
make a good handle for the whip, with which they chiefly
manage their dogs.

The whale fisheries of this country might, undoubtedly, be
pursued with great success, in Prince Regent's Bay, and in
Melville Bay. The fish are here not only large and numerous,
but, probably from their having never been disturbed, tame,
and easy to be approached. There cannot be a doubt but that
the whole of this bay might be visited every season, and the
circumstance of the ships employed in the fishery returning

^^' ^-**--<*^a^^*^^

■■*L-^crt&.J*--*AJ&tlL3-

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

119

clean *, can only be attributed to their leaving the bay before Produce of the

they ought. This they are often obliged to do for want of

provision, and the practice of sending so small a supply, which

is too often the case, either from the illiberality or parsimony

of the owners, cannot be too severely reprehended ; as it is, it

not only prevents the masters and crews from standing a fair

chance with those better provided, to the ruin of their character

and employment, but to the imminent risk of their lives. By

remaining twelve or fourteen days longer than the usual time,

ships might, with safety and ease, reach these hordes, load,

and return when the ice had dissolved.

Besides this, it is more than probable, that a valuable fur
trade might be established ; numbers of black foxes were
actually seen by the officers and men, who were on shore
at Crimson Cliffs, and also the traps used by the natives
in catching them; and we were informed that the country
abounded in them. There can be no doubt that people who are
of so harmless a disposition as the Arctic Highlanders, might
be easily instructed to collect these skins, which they do not
seem to value, or make so much use of as those of the seal
and the bear. The ivory of the sea-unicorn, the sea-horse's
teeth, and the bear's teeth, may also be considered as articles
of trade. All these could be procured for European commo-
dities, such as knives, nails, small harpoon-heads, pieces of

,,, ...

* A term used when they have taken no fish.

r.-- ■:

ESM

120

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

iron, wood of any description, crockery ware, and various
cheap and useful utensils and tools ; both to the great benefit
of the merchant, and to that of this secluded race of human
beings.

I .1

■. «

Language of the lT has been already stated, that when the natives of this
rS country were first discovered, their language was unintelligible
to Sacheuse; and, at the second interview, he found much
difficulty in holding a communication ; but, at length, dis-
covered that they spoke the Humooke dialect. Upon inquiry,
I found that Sacheuse had been nursed by an old woman, who
was a native of Oppernowick, in lat. 73° N., who taught him
this dialect. It not only differs materially in the pronunciation
of the words, but also in the names of many articles, from the
Eskimaux language, as spoken in the southern part of Danish
Greenland, and is peculiar to the inhabitants of the northern
parts of that country. It was believed, however, that the
northern was the most ancient, or most original, language.
There is a still greater difference between the dialect of the
Arctic Highlanders and the Humooke, the former being spoken
very slow, and the names of things, the most common in all
countries, being totally different. To illustrate this, I subjoin a
list collected from Sacheuse ; nevertheless, it will be found, by
reference to the said list, that the two languages are radically
the same.

They each seem to have the same practice of uniting a
number of words, a character equally common among the

^A&^awSR.* ;i-v.v.;.

^>*S4^^^^>£-^ffl8HESPP3?

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

121

languages of the North American Continent ; the same method of Language of the

declining by definite terminations; and they also use the negative, A*ctIC H,shlanders

njilak, as a termination to verbs. Their numbers go as far as

five, exactly like the southern Eskimaux; but they have no

method of marking the day, which, in the south, is done by

the tide. They had no names for any kind of fish (except the

whale), which they seemed unacquainted with the use of as

food. Iron, which is certainly found in the north, and not in

the south, is called by both sowick ; this is also the name of a

knife in the south, but in the north it is called bellaouduk. The

moon in the south is called pinga, in the north kaimut ; but it

is known to both nations by the name of anningack, which shews

they are equally acquainted with the same mythological fable

of the origin of the moon.

When Sacheuse was desired to ask if they had a king, he
pronounced the words nullikab, signifying a person in authority;
then nakouack, i. e., a strong man, who can kill more seals, and
is respected, or dreaded ; but they did not understand him.
He at last recollected that pisarsuak had been used as the name
of a chief; they immediately answered in the affirmative, and
said his name was Tulloowak.

.., 'I

•Mfi-Wi

=<US

— —

■i 'hf

,.J

" .„•'

• i :

122

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

A COMPARATIVE LIST

Language of the
Arctic Highlanders OF THE NORTHERN AND SOUTHERN ESKIMAUX LANGUAGE.

English.

Southern.

Northern.

Woman

Arnett

Arnewerset.

Young Man

Innusholok

Innuquowak.

Harpoon

Tookuk

Olootuk.

Harpoon Shaft

Ermeinuk

Ippou.

Loon (a Bird)

Akput

Pycalhussweet.

Duckskin Shirt

Pinuset

Ater.

Hood of the Dress

Ilpaousuk

Okoukak.

Black Stone of the Lamps

Okekesuk

Ouyorak (any stone)

Hook by which the Lamp hangs

Kelipsuet

Ousuit.

Awks (Birds)

Akpalliarsuk

Akpalliwrshus-weet.

Boiled Meat

Olelie

Osotoclu.

Sledge

Kamoutik

Kamoutipalauit.

Traces for the Dogs

Peluilit

LTsintet.

WORDS THE SAME IN BOTH DIALECTS.

English.

Northern Esquimaux

Man

Innuck.

Men

Innuit.

Son

Eura.

Daughter

Pani.

Eyes

Pisiok,

w-aiu^area^.- -v^g--^. .. >-;.-^lu>.v-^^y '

rte£^&r^£&^sLX£*SlJ3

Y&ttT-

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

123

English.

Nose

Mouth

Skin

Sun

Fire

Seal

Dog

Ice

Sea Water

Fresh Water

Go away

Sea-horse

WThale

One

Two

Three

Four

Five

Northern Esquimaux.
Kinjack.

Kanneck.

Haminuk.

Succanuk.

Innick.

Pussi.

Kimuck.

Licou.

Heniok.

Hemuck.

Naakrie.

Naakrie-ai-plaite»

Havick.

Haphuck.

Allausit.

Ailek.

Pinguijuk.

Sissimat,

Telleinat.

Language of the
Arctic Highlanders

"*■•

The origin of the Arctic Highlanders, or inhabitants of Origin of the
Prince Regent's Bay, is a question as yet involved in peculiar Arctlc l§hlandm
obscurity. They exist in a corner of the world by far the most
secluded which has yet been discovered, and have no know-
ledge of any thing but what originates, or is found, in their own
country ; nor have they any tradition how they came to this spot, or
from whence they came ; having, until the moment of our arrival,
believed themselves to be the only inhabitants of the universe,

r 2

"Wlrl

; "- ~-.-—~~--^-M±^-**a*^

124

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

Origin of the and that all the rest of the world was a mass of ice. It is

Arctic Highlanders hit i i ,

generally believed by the natives of South Greenland, that they
are themselves descended from a nation in the north; and
the moment they were discovered, Sacheuse exclaimed, " these
" are right Eskimaux, these are our fathers !" This supposition
is confirmed by a tradition in Egede's Greenland, where a story
is related, as believed by every Eskimaux, that a party of
savages having come from the north to the establishments at
Woman's Islands, murdered the Eskimaux stationed there;
the accounts of which having reached their friends in the
south, a party went against them, and destroyed them in
return. The similarity of the language proves they are the
same people ; and it appears most probable, that South
Greenland has been peopled from the north, and that
the northern parts of Baffin's Bay have been, in the same
manner, originally peopled from America. It has been Ion a
ascertained, that the land discovered by Davis, on the west side
of Davis' Strait was inhabited ; and where we landed, on the
west side in latitude 70°, there were evident marks of its recent
occupation. The only parts which appeared to be uninhabitable,
were between Whale Sound and Lancaster Sound, a place, no
doubt, of very considerable extent ; but which, with a sledge
on the ice, would be only three days' journey. Their having
no knowledge of canoes is easily accounted for, by their
total want of wood, and the very short time that canoes could
be used in their seas.

*«*&!£:

j-t-Mf-^^'V^i'^^-rvJXir----*

HKT«<k»:2f39S ■' &&£%?

&*^&M^^^±^.M^^13^,JS

**-&<.

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

125

The Dress of the Arctic Highlanders consists of three pieces, Dress of the
which are all comprised in the name of " tun-nick." The upper ArcticHi8hlandeis
one is made of seal-skin, with the hair outside, and is similar to
the woman's jacket of the South Greenlander, being open only
near the top, so as to equal the size of the wearer's face.
At the bottom it is formed like a shirt, but terminating in a
tongue before and behind, the hood part being neatly trimmed
with fox's-skin, and made to fall back on the shoulders, or
cover the head, as required. This is lined, in general, with
eider-duck, or awk skins ; and this lining being close at the
bottom, and open near the breast, serves as a pocket. The
next piece of dress, which scarcely reached the knee, is also
uncomfortably small in the upper part, so that, in stooping,
the skin is exposed. This is made of bear or dog's skin, and
fastened up with a string. The boots are made of seal-skin,
with the hair inwards, the soles being covered with sea-horse
hide ; they reach over the knees, and meet the middle part of
the dress. The whole of these are made by the women ; the
needles used being of ivory, and the thread is of the sinews
of the seal, split : the seams are so neat that they can
scarcely be distinguished. They informed us, that in the
winter, or as the weather got colder, they had a garment of
bear-skins, which they put on as a cloak ; but this we did
not see, nor were we able to persuade them to spare any part
of their dress.

The Arctic Highlanders are of a dirty copper colour,
their stature is about five feet, their bodies corpulent, and

=•*&:

aKtoi^Aifii

!v <-

■ i ;

126

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

Description of the their features much resembling the Eskimaux of South

Arctic Highlanders

Greenland. The following description of Ervick, of whom
so much has already been said, and whose portrait is given
at full length, and of his nephews, Marshuick and Otooniah,
will give a just idea of the whole tribe of these people.
This man, who appeared to be about forty years of age,
measured five feet one inch in height, his skin being of a
dirty copper colour, rather darker than the generality ; his
face was broad, his forehead narrow and low, with some
wrinkles, and the nose small and strait ; the cheeks full,
round, and ruddy, even through the oil and dirt which covered
them ; his mouth was large, generally half open, and shewing
that he had lost his fore-teeth, the remainder of which were,
however, white and regular ; his lips were thick, particularly
towards the middle ; his eyes small, black, oval, and very
approximate ; the hair was black, coarse, long, and lank,
and had certainly never been cut or combed ; his beard
and mustachios, which were suffered to grow, were scanty,
and confined to the upper lip and chin ; his body was
fleshy, inclining to corpulence ; the hands thick and small,
fingers short, and the feet very short and thick. Though
good humour was fully expressed in his countenance, it also
bore that indescribable mixed appearance of ignorance and
wildness, that characterizes all uncivilized people. In walking,
he seemed inactive, and it was with much difficulty he got
up the ship's side.

Marshuick appeared to be twenty-three years of age ; he

Ri •

^^^■^^■^g>.^-k^;v'

^^^^S^SB^S^m^^'^^SiSSgr

£rd^4r^>^Vfr*A^^

V'Z-£>:

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

127

was not so dark as his uncle; his features were so pleasing, Description of the
that he got the name of the « handsome native f he was AlcticHish]anders
not so corpulent as the rest, but, in every other respect, his
appearance was the same.

Otooniah was about twenty-one years of age; his features were
much freckled, and we recognised a likeness between hirn
and a Greenlander we had seen in N.E. Bay : both these,
who were brothers, had white regular teeth, and were five
feet high. The man, who stole the hammer, was by much
the tallest, being five feet six inches and a half; his skin was
not so dark as Ervick's, the nose was large and aquiline,
the forehead very narrow, and lower part of his face broad ;
the body muscular; the features savage and dishonest; he
had less beard than the rest, but was in other respects the same.

The greatest number of natives seen was about eighteen ;
many attempts were made to discover the numbers of the
tribe, but without success, as they could reckon no further
than five, and could therefore only say, " plenty people/"
pointing to the north; and, it must be recollected, that this was
only a party detached from the main body.

•t •

Ervick, being the senior of the first party that came on On the subject of
board, was judged to be the most proper person to question on the e 1§j°n ™ *
subject of religion. I directed Sacheuse to ask him, if he had any
knowledge of a Supreme Being ; but after trying every word
used in his own language to express it, he could not make him
understand what he meant. It was distinctly ascertained that

$■■ i|

128

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

•a.

On the subject of he did not worship the sun, moon, stars, or any image, or

Religion in the .

Arctic Highlands, hving creature. When asked, what the sun or moon was
for, he said, to give light. He had no knowledge, or idea, how
he came into being, or of a future state ; but said, that when
he died he would be put into the ground. Having fully ascer-
tained that he had no idea of a beneficent Supreme Being, I
proceeded, through Sacheuse, to inquire if he believed in an
evil spirit ; but he could not be made to understand what it
meant. The word " angekok" which means a conjuror, or
sorcerer, was then pronounced to him, in the South Greenland
Eskimaux language. He said, they had many of them, that it
was in their power to raise a storm, or make a calm, and to drive
off seals, or bring them ; that they learned this art from old
Angekoks, when young ; that they were afraid of them ; but
they had generally one in every family. Mejgack gave pre-
cisely the same answers, and had the same notions, but he was
not so intelligent as Ervick. Finding that Otooniah^ the nephew
of Ervick, a lad of eighteen years of age, was a young
angekok, I got him in the cabin by himself, and, through
Sacheuse, asked him how he learned this art. He replied, from
an old angekok ; that he could raise the wind, and drive off
seals and birds. He said that this was done by gestures and
words ; but the words had no meaning, nor were they said or
addressed to any thing but the wind or the sea. He was positive
that in this incantation he did not receive assistance from
any thing, nor could he be made to understand what a good
or an evil spirit meant. When Ervick was told that there was

*^r^Trt^^^7^r

^fKL*fcfo<*

^^ifcaw^

v>yfr^fl^^£jg-,ji!

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

an omnipotent, omnipresent, and invisible Being, who had 0n the subject of

created the sea and land, and all therein, he shewed much

surprise, and eagerly asked where he lived. When told that

he was every where, he was much alarmed, and became very

impatient to be on deck. When told that there was a future

state, and another world, he said that a wise man, who had

lived long before his time, had said, that they were to go to

the moon, but that it was not now believed, and that none of

the others knew any thing of this history ; they believed,

however, that birds, and other living creatures, came from it.

Although there is certainly no proof whatever that this people

have any idea of a Supreme Being, or of a spirit, good or

bad, the circumstances of their having conjurers, and of their

going to the moon after death, are of a nature to prevent

any conclusion from being drawn to that effect ; especially

as it must be evident, that our knowledge of their language

was too imperfect to obtain the whole of their ideas on the

subject.

We had not an opportunity of visiting the habitations of Mode of Li
the Arctic Highlanders, nor did we see them but at too great andCustomsofthe

° Arctic Highlanders

a distance to form a judgment either of their construction or
comforts ; but, from the description given by the natives,
they appeared to be situated always near the sea-side, on a
spot the least liable to be overwhelmed by snow. These houses
are built entirely of stones, the walls being sunk three feet
into the earth, and raised to three feet above it ; the roof is in

•Ml

130

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

Mode of Living the form of an arch, and such holes as would admit air are

md Customs of the
Arctic Highlanders

and Customs of the r>ii i 'ii_jjii i mi

, tilled up with mud ; they have no windows. The entrance

era * "*

is by a long, narrow, and nearly under-ground passage. The
floor is covered with skins, on which they sit or sleep ; several
families living in one house, and each family has a lamp
made of hollowed stone, which is suspended from the roof,
and in which they burn the oil, or rather the blubber of the seal
and sea-unicorn, using dried moss for a wick ; fire is produced
from iron and stone. This lamp, which is never extinguished,
serves for light and warmth, and, at the same time, for cooking ;
and we ascertained that they had a method both of boiling
and roasting, or scorching their meat, which occupation falls
entirely on the women. They eat all kinds of animal food,
but the seal and sea-unicorn * are preferred, as being more

* The sea-unicorn, monoceros, narwhal, or unicorn-fish, has been found twenty-two
feet long, and twelve round, head nearly one-fourth the length of the body, round,
small, and terminates in an obtuse rounded snout. Mouth small, no teeth, but a
large wreathed tusk, or horn ; sometimes two, and often ten feet long, proceeds
from his upper jaw, diverging to one side, and tapering towards the point. Eyes and
ears very small ; one respiratory orifice in the back of the head ; back broad, convex,
tapering towards the tail, which is horizontally placed, and is divided into two obtuse
oval lobes. Body of an ovoidal shape, no dorsal fins, but a high ridge, or projection,
extends from the blow hole towards the tail, and gradually diminishes in height as it
approaches the tail : two pectoral fins; colour generally cinereous, dappled with
numerous multiform black spots ; belly a shining white, and soft as velvet to the
touch.

Molusca and actinea were their general food ; the unicorn fish swims with great
swiftness, but, like other cetaceu, cannot remain long under water without
respiring ; though seemingly harmless, he is a dangerous enemy to the whale, and
has been known to dart his horn into the side of a ship. {First Voyage, p. 335.)
The oil is of a superior quality, and the horn was long the subject of a kind of

-*»sr«?

a^^^^o.^«^v^.-;v'.--».^^^:5

*+Zt«P98SS&

s^rj^spgsssssss

renege

»*-;&

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

131

I If

oily and agreeable to their palates. Dogs are also esteemed Mode of Living

11 /> i i ' i i i- i 11 l and Customs of the

excellent rood, and are bred as live stock, as well as to draw . . Tt. ,. ,

' 7 Arctic Highlanders

the sledge ; but they are only eaten in winter, in times when no
other food can be obtained. The men catch the seals, either
when they are asleep, or by lying down near the holes in the ice,
and making a great noise, which brings them to the surface.
When the animal appears they imitate his cry, or grunt,
and by this means induce him to come on the ice and approach
them ; when within reach, they strike him on the nose with a
spear made of sea-unicorns' horn, and soon despatch him.
The sea-unicorn is taken by a harpoon, the barbed part of
which is about three inches long, having a line attached to it
of about five fathoms in length, the other end of which is
fastened to a buoy of a seal's skin made into a bag and
inflated. The blade is fixed on the end of the shaft in such a
manner that it may be disengaged from the handle after it is
fixed in the animal, and the shaft is then pulled back by a
line which is tied to it for the purpose.

The animal immediately plunges, and carries down with him
the seal-skin buoy, which fatigues him. As he must come
up in some pool to respire, like the black whale, he is followed

superstitious respect. It was said to be efficacious in the cure of several distempers,
and was prized as being of the very highest value. The Margraves of Bareuth possessed
one which cost them six hundred thousand rix-dollars ; and the Kings of Denmark
have a throne formed of it, which is esteemed more valuable than if composed of gold.
The horn is of a finer texture, and takes a better polish, than the elephant's.— Laing's
Voyage to Spitzbergeu.

L ■■-. .

-*Sm

i I

132

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

■II

Mode of Living and despatched with the spears ; as this animal frequents the

and Customs of the , 1 i • .1 • 1 s» n ,1

„ . TT. . , , chasms and pools in the ice, he tails an easy prey to the

Arctic Highlanders l j r j

natives.

We could not learn the precise manner in which they kill
the bears, but they informed us that they attacked them in the
water. The foxes and hares are taken in traps, made of
stones, resembling a small grotto, and having a narrow entrance
which is closed by a stone that falls down when the animals
enter to take the bait left within it. The natives described
to us an animal which they called humminick, but said it was
too large for them to kill ; it has, by their account, a horn on
its back, and is very swift, I therefore suppose it must be
a reindeer. They have also an animal known to both
countries by the name of ancarok, but which I cannot find to be
mentioned by writers on Greenland. Sacheuse says, it is not
uncommon about North-east Bay and Disco Bay, where its cry
is continually heard at night. It is very wild, and can seldom be
approached, being very active and fierce ; the Eskimaux are
afraid of it. He says it resembles a cat, but is three times larger,
that it moves by jumping more than by running, and lives inholes
and caverns in the rocks ; that it eats hares and partridges, which
it lies in wait for, and catches by springing on them. The hares,
seen by our people, were white, and are described in the Ap-
pendix. The foxes were generally black, but they were also seen
both of a white and of the common colour which they have in
southern countries ; unfortunately none of them were taken, and
therefore they cannot be particularly described. The dogs which

*«G&&

*1Vi&SK>

^^5^3^53RS3HSS!S?^C?,,?

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

133

are the only animals that have been domesticated by the Arctic Mode of Living

Dms of th<
ghlanders

Highlanders, are of various colours, but chiefly resembling andCustomsoflhe

J & Arctic His

that given in the plate ; they are of the size of a shepherd's
dog, they have a head like a wolf, and a tail like a fox ;
their bark resembles the latter, but they have also a howl
like the former.

An Arctic Highlander never hunts, or travels to any distance,
but on his sledge, and he always carries with him his spear
and knife ; from the rapidity with which they seem to drive,
it may be fairly conjectured, they could travel fifty or sixty
miles a day, which, indeed, is known to have been done by
the natives of South Greenland. The habits of this people
appear to be filthy in the extreme ; their faces, hands, and
bodies, are covered with oil and dirt, and they look as if they
never had Avashed themselves since they were born. Their
hair was matted with filth, yet they seemed very tenacious of
it ; for, when a small piece was cut off from the head of one
of Meigack's sons, both he and his father were much
displeased, and shewed great uneasiness until it was returned,
when it was carefully wrapped in a piece of seal-skin, and put by
the former into his pocket. "We learned that each man took one
wife, when he was able to maintain a family ; if she had
children, he took no other, nor was she permitted to have
another husband ; but, if otherwise, the man may take another
Avife, and so on a third, until they have children, and the
women have the same privilege. Ervick spoke very affec-
tionately of his wife, who he said was a good one, because

smsb

*-■-'- -"■-

ki-

134

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

Habits and she had six sons ; when they took, or begged any fanciful
Customs of the tll- as a looking-glass or picture, they all said it was for their

Arctic Highlanders °' ° °

wives. They also shew much respect to their mothers; for,
one of them said, he would let me have his sledge, and another
would have parted with his jacket, but his mother would be
displeased. The dress of the women is, from what we could collect,
the same as that of the men. We could not make out whether
they lived to a great age or not, for the old people had been
sent to the mountains, or concealed on our approach, and we
never saw them, nor did we see any of the children. I asked
both Ervick and Meigack if they would spare one of their sons j
to which they answered, they would not ; nor could either of
them be tempted by any presents to consent to part with a
child. Indeed, none of them were willing to leave their country ;
they seemed most happy and contented, their clothing was in
good condition, and very suitable to the climate, and by
their account, they had plenty of provisions. They all
acknowledged Tuloowah as their king, represented him as a
strong man, as very good, and very much beloved ; the name
of his residence was Petowack, which they described to be
near a large island, which could be no other than Wolsten-
holme island. He had a large house built of stone, which they
described to be nearly as large as the ship : that there were
many houses near it, and that the mass .of the natives lived
there ; that they paid him a portion of all they caught or found,
and returned to this place whenever the sun went away, with
the fruits of their labours. They could not be made to under-

^.<rv

^r.

-^-i

M v -.,

^•±ii^&^M-^£J>'±tlLJSJZ- J./ '<

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

135

stand what was meant by war, nor had they any warlike Habits and
weapons ; and I gave strict and positive orders that no fire- Customs of the

Arctic Highland

arms, or other warlike weapons, should be shewn them, or
given to them on any account, and when they were with us
all shooting-parties were called in. They seemed to have
no diseases among them, nor could we learn that they died
of any complaints peculiar to this or any other country. We
saw no deformed persons among them, nor could we find out
that there were any ; we did not see any of the women or young
children, but had we been able to remain I have no doubt
but they would have visited us.

Such is the substance of what we collected in our short
intercourse with this interesting people, which may appear
in some points to be defective ; but it must be recollected that
the ships were always in motion, principally from the state
of the weather, which rendered it impossible for us to. send
parties on shore after the first day. We still had daily hopes
of obtaining a more complete access to them, even to the last
moment when we were obliged to leave this part of the coast ;
and in proceeding northward from our last station, had still
the prospect of visiting their king, and filling up the measure
of information respecting them. These hopes were ultimately
disappointed, as will appear by the events that will be related
in the ensuing Chapter.

-*~--^—-^— -~ —

;

136

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

CHAPTER VIII.

PASSAGE THROUGH THE LAST BARRIER DISCOVERY OF CAPE YORK

CRIMSON CLIFFS AND COLOURED SNOW CAPE DUDLEY DIGGES

FORMATION OF AN ICEBERG PETOWACK WOLSTENHOLME SOUND

OBSERVATIONS ON THE ATMOSPHERE.

l P

August 16.
Lat. 75° 57' N.
Long. 66° 24' W.

1 HE ships, being again under sail, with more cheering
prospects before them, proceeded along the margin of the ice,
where it appeared attached to the land, with a fine breeze from
the north. In about two hours we arrived at the barrier of
icebergs, which has been before described as stretching from
the northernmost land in sight towards the west. We soon
discovered that these masses were aground on each side of a
shoal, in which are found, in some places, about forty fathoms
water. We passed through many intricate and narrow
channels ; and, at four o'clock, we rounded this cape, which
I named after the Duke of York, in commemoration of the
birth-day of His Royal Highness. Views of it, from east and
west, were taken by Mr. Bushnan, and will be found among
the engravings. The land, from this cape, took a W. by N.
direction ; we continued to steer along it, at the distance of
four miles, and, for the first time, saw the sea wash the rocks.

*&e&BS&E&ES>i

^KSSSSBsSS

^*j

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

137

The wind being light, a boat was sent to the shore to look for August 16.
the habitations of the natives, to make observations on the rise, at' 75 57 N"

' Long. 66° 24' W,

fall, velocity, and direction of the tide, and to procure
specimens of natural history ; in the mean time soundings were
obtained, and shells, and other substances, brought from the
bottom of the sea, in fifty fathoms. At midnight the boat
returned, with various specimens of grass, moss, and stones.
The officers reported that the water was deep close to the shore,
which was very steep and rocky. The tide fell two feet during
the three hours they were on shore, its velocity was about one
mile per hour, the ebb running to the eastward. The party
did not fall in with any of the natives, nor did they succeed in
discovering their habitations, but they saw several of their
stone traps, a description of which has been given. Many
black foxes were seen by the officers, and some of the party
also saw white and red coloured ones ; they had several shots
at them, but were not fortunate enough to kill one. The
Alexander's boat, which went on shore, was equally unsuc-
cessful in obtaining a specimen of these animals.

August 17. We continued our course along the land, at the
distance of five or six miles, among numerous bergs and pieces
of loose ice. By the former, which were aground in fifty
fathoms, we found that the tide began, about ten o'clock, to
carry us to the eastward ; I therefore made fast to a berg,
and, by the log, found the current running one knot per
hour. It was now calm, but a breeze soon sprung up, and
we only remained fifteen minutes in that situation, after

IfH

., i

138

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

August 17-
Lat. 75° 54' N.
Lon«. 6'7° J 5' W.

which we made sail, and found we could do rather more than
stem the tide. This morning being clear, I sent to an iceberg
to obtain azimuths, but owing to the attraction of the boat,
which had ice anchors on board her, no satisfactory result was
obtained ; the latitude and longitude, however, of Cape York
was accurately determined. AVe now discovered that the snow,
on the face of the cliffs, presented an appearance both novel
and interesting, being apparently stained, or covered, by some
substance, which gave it a deep crimson colour. Many
conjectures were afloat concerning the cause of this appearance;
it was at once determined it could not be the dung of birds, for
thousands of these, of various descriptions, were seen repeat-
edly sitting on the ice, and on the snow, but without producing
any such effects.

At two P.M. it fell nearly calm, and I sent a boat with
Mr. Ross, midshipman, and Mr. Beverley, assistant surgeon,
and a party, to bring off some of the snow, and to make
what remarks they could on the circumstances attending it,
as also 16 procure specimens of the animal, vegetable, and
mineral kingdoms, and to ascertain if this part of the country
was inhabited. The boat arrived at the shore, nearly at low
water, and found the tide had fallen nine feet. The party
remained two hours on shore, and found the cliffs were not
inaccessible at the spot where they landed, but they did not
get to the top, being recalled in consequence of a breeze
springing up. They were equally unsuccessful, in meeting
with natives, or their habitations, as in procuring specimens of

>-.^^v^>^.

' / w pi //,, Ceivured Snrw in I.at ' I Leny

hgJLi0^isMr'^L^ri&. -Mf- -S-

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

the black fox, many of which they saw and fired at, but August 17.

, , 1 Lat. 75° 54' N

without effect. They found that the snow was penetrated even

down to the rock, in many places to a depth of ten or twelve

feet, by the colouring matter, and that it had the appearance

of having been a long time in that state. The boat returned

at seven with a quantity of the snow, together with specimens

of the vegetation, and of the rocks, the description of which

will be found in the Appendix ; the snow was immediately

examined by a microscope, magnifying 110 times, and the

substance appeared to consist of particles like a very minute

round seed, which, were exactly of the same size, and of a

deep red colour : on some of the particles a small dark speck

was also seen. It was the general opinion of the officers

who examined it by the microscope, that it must be vegetable,

and this opinion seemed to gain strength, by the nature of the

places where it was found ; these were the sides of the hills,

about six hundred feet high, on the tops of which was seen

vegetation of yellowish green and reddish brown colours.

The extent of these cliffs was about eight miles ; behind them

at a considerable distance high mountains were seen, but the

snow which covered these was not coloured ; during the calm

I took the view of this remarkable land, which is represented

by the engraving. Both ships were made fast to icebergs

which lay aground, and the velocity of the tide, which

was at the highest springs, was ascertained to be one mile

an hour, and its direction to be W.N.W. and E.S.E. In the

evening I caused some of the snow to be dissolved, and

t 2

Ill 'I'

•vH

140

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

IK 1

August 17.
Lat. 75° 54,' N.
Long. 69° 15' W

bottled, when the water had the appearance of muddy port*
wine; in a few hours it deposited a sediment, which was
examined by the microscope; some of it was bruised, and
found to be composed wholly of red matter; when applied to
paper, it produced a colour nearest to Indian red. It was
preserved in three states, viz., dissolved and bottled, the
sediment bottled, and the sediment dried : these have been
examined since our return to this country, and various opinions
given concerning it, but Dr. Wollaston seems to concur in
that which we originally had, of its being a vegetable sub-
stance, produced on the mountain immediately above it. It
cannot be a marine production, as in several parts we saw it
at least six miles from the sea, but always on the face or near
the foot of a mountain.

A strict look out was. kept all this day for natives, and their
habitations, as we passed along shore. The main body of
solid ice appeared a few miles to the south-westward of us,
and innumerable icebergs were seen in every direction. In the
evening we had an easterly breeze, and Cape Dudley Digges,
which Baffin describes as being easily known by a small island
off it. The island has a conical shape, and is very rugged.
It was perfectly clear of snow, and appeared to be about four
miles distant from the pitch of the Cape ; it was found to be
bold and deep on the outside, but on the inside there was a
rippling, which led us to judge the water there was shallow.

The situation of the ice obliged us to pass very close to this
island, the hand-lead was kept going, and a good look out

y.wc?v.>g«^-

. >■• ----- -».—^ »--^3.«r^

^^^^-Mr-^.JS?

■W^-.^SiWII^^^ >^^- >>„->4- .

^mJ^ni^Mr^LJ^:

NiA^je^^tfjG^^Ki^r^v

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

141

for rocks was kept from the jib-boom end and crow s-nest ; as August is.

. Lat. 76° 12i' N.

we approached this part of the coast, we perceived, for the Lon(Jt 69o 54^ w
first time, a considerable swell, which we could not but deem a
favourable omen. Soon after this we discovered water clear of
ice, to the north-westward, as far as could be distinguished from
the mast-head.

August 18. During the night the wind was light, but the
Alexander brought up a breeze. Cape Dudley Digges was
found to be a few miles to the southward of the situation in
which Baffin has laid it down. It appeared to form a
precipice of about eight hundred feet in height, was perfectly
clear of snow, and presented a yellowish vegetation at the top,
behind which, at the distance of eighteen miles, there appeared
to be high mountains covered with snow. There was too
much swell to land on it ; and, indeed, our main object was
now the prosecution of our voyage, as the lateness of the season
did not warrant any further delays. The land appeared now
to trend to the northward ; there were several inlets, which
would have been excellent harbours, but they were all filled
with glaciers, some of them extending a considerable distance
into the sea. The cliffs were, in most places, perpendicular,
but there were also chasms and ravines, in which were the
marks of torrents. About six miles north of Cape Dudley Digges,
a beautiful glacier was seen, filling up a space of four miles
square, and extending one mile into the sea ; its height being
at least one thousand feet : a plate of this remarkable object is
given. To the north of this several huts were plainly distin-

M '!

— ^- — ' --••"-^---' ^^J^ — ~

afl*ta*rfUifitffc

hi ' ''

142

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

tffl

■< ■

August is. guished, which led us to believe it to be Petowack. Wolslen-

w.69°5!!'w.holme Island was now in sight to the northward, and as we
were steering for it with a fine breeze, and the sea almost clear
of ice, we gave up all idea of communicating with the King
of the Arctic Highlanders ; the hopes of attaining the grand
object of the enterprise were now raised to such a height, as to
make that, which was considered so desirable but a few hours
before, an object of no moment whatever. As we approached
Wo sten holme Island, and opened the Sound of that name, I
sent a boat to try to reach the shore, but a thick fog coming
on, I was obliged to recall her. A remarkable rock was seen,
which I named Dalrymple Rock ; the Cape forming the south
entrance I named after his Grace the Duke of Athol, and that
to the northward after the Earl of Stair, in compliment to these
noblemen.

Before I close this part of the narrative, it may not be
improper to give some account of the atmospherical phenomena,
which were observed, during a tedious progress through six
hundred miles of ice, as well as the manner in which our crews
were governed and treated to preserve their health, an object of
such vital importance to our enterprise.

By reference to a table in the Appendix, in which the
height of the barometer, sympeisometer, and thermometer, were
registered every two hours, it will be seen how little variation
there was during the whole summer ; a circumstance not to be
wondered at, considering the sun was continually above the
horizon. We were occasionally visited by fogs, which were, in

i i i

RWC£

^-t-: ^-^ ^^^e^^^^^^^^^^^

^^^^^•feS^ft^

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS-

general, extremely thick, and of a very white appearance, August is

76° 12|
69° 54|' W

while in the zenith the blue sky was apparent. At this time, at'

the thermometer is generally at the freezing point ; the moment
this fog touches the ropes of the ship, it freezes, and these are,
in a very short time, covered with ice, to the thickness of a
man's arm, and at every evolution of the ship it covers the
deck with its fragments. In the absence of these fogs, we had
sometimes the atmosphere most beautifully clear ; the objects
on the horizon were often most wonderfully raised by the
powers of refraction, while others, at a short distance from
them, were as much sunk. The use of the dip-sector was
totally suspended, as no satisfactory result could be obtained
from it. These objects were continually varying in shape ; the
ice had sometimes the appearance of an immense wall on the
horizon, with here and there a space resembling a breach
in it ; icebergs, and even small pieces of ice, had often the
appearance of trees ; and while, on one side, we had the
resemblance of a forest near us, the pieces of ice, on the other
side, were so greatly lengthened, as to look like long low
islands.

We were often able to see land at an immense distance,
and Ave have certain proof that the power of vision was extended
beyond one hundred and fifty miles ; I made many observations
with my sextant on the phenomena just described, and often
found the same object increase in its altitude half a degree
in the course of a few minutes. The high rock off Cape Dudley
Digges, was observed to increase in altitude from 2° to 5°

■

III

••"I

144

A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY

August is, within an hour; in the course of next half hour it decreased
^at' I _ i2i,' to the appearance of a speck on the water, and soon after it

Long. 09 54 1 W,

became like a long low island, in which state it remained for
some hours, when it resumed its natural shape. While the
moon was in sight, she had the appearance of following the
sun round the horizon, and while these bodies were passing in
azimuth along the tops of the mountains, the snow which
covered them, and which had naturally a yellow tinge, had
then the lustre of gold, and the reflection of these upon the
sky, produced a rich green tint so delicately beautiful as
to surpass description. On the other hand, the rays of the
sun darting over the tops of the mountains, came in contact
with the icebergs, which appeared like as many edifices of
silver, adorned with precious stones of every variety.

The rules and regulations., necessary to be attended to by
the officers and crews of the expedition under my command,
will be found at the conclusion of this narrative. It is, there-
fore, unnecessary for me to dwell on the subject of discipline,
which is so essentially requisite, in order to preserve the health
of the men. In the course of our tedious, and often laborious,
progress through the ice, it became necessary to keep the
whole of the crew at the most fatiguing work, sometimes
for several days and nights without intermission. When this
was the case an extra meal was served to them at midnight,
generally of preserved meat ; and I found that this kind of
nourishment, when the mind and body are both occupied, and
aided, no doubt, by the continual presence of the sun, acted

i ,~*\ ^ibs^^^j^SS^iid^SSSkidmitL^m

im^^'^t

y^^T^fr&Jfrr ^^S^rS^l' >;3r

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

as a substitute for sleep, and they often passed three clays in August is.
this manner without any visible inconvenience ; after a meal of Lat' ?6° 12*' N

J Long. 69°54|'W,

this kind, they returned to their labour on the ice, tracking and
warping, or in the boats towing, quite refreshed, and continued
at it without a murmur. No doubt the exercise was a consider-
able preventive to scurvy, which was the complaint most to be
feared. As long as the vegetables lasted, no lime-juice was
served ; when the men got wet, which often happened, they
were made to shift their clothes and put on dry ones : caps of
canvass, lined with flannel, were made for them ; these were
conical in shape, and made large enough to come over the
shoulders, buttoning under the chin ; they had the effect of
keeping the neck and breast warm, and being painted on the
outside, also turned the water off effectually ; they were made
use of in rainy, snowy, or foggy weather. With these pre-
cautions, and the men being all of good constitution, we never
had a sick person, and when we arrived at this part of our
voyage, no crews were ever in higher health or spirits.

■ i»i !
ill

m ill

■146

A VOYAGE Ol' DISCOVERY

CHAPTER IX.

PROGRESS TOWARDS THE NORTH WHALE SOUND, CAREY S ISLANDS,

AND HEAD OF BAFFIN'S BAY, DISCOVERED SMITH'S SOUND CAPE

CLARENCE JONESS SOUND ENTANGLED WITH ICE — THICK FOGS

CAPE LEOPOLD PRINCESS CHARLOTTE'S MONUMENT GET CLEAR

OF THE ICE, AND PROCEED TO THE SOUTHWARD.

August is. 1 HE breeze which had brought us on continuing fair,

Lat. 76° 25' N.

we
, passed Wolstenholme Sound about two P.M., and found it

[4 P.M. L

Long. 7i° oo' w. completely blocked up with ice. It seemed to be eighteen or
' twenty leagues in depth, and the land on each side, which has
been already described, appeared to be habitable, but no
habitations were discovered. We found the entrances to this
inlet, and the general form and appearance of the land to agree
extremely well with the description of it given by Baffin, as
well as did its bearing and distance from Cape Dudley
Digges. When we had passed this Sound, the breeze, which
had now blown for some hours, gradually subsided into a calm,
and we were thus fortunately enabled to ascertain that there
was no current. The boat was also sent to examine some
icebergs, that were seen to be aground, and we thus discovered
that there was no tide of consequence. An opportunity was

i- s-x .-:

*K-r>*U}!4rr&£T&.

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

thus also afforded for sounding, and in trying the bottom we

found it rocky ; the depth being two hundred and fifty ^at 75° 25 N'

J r & J Long. 71° 00 W.

fathoms. At four P.M. Whale Sound was discovered, but we Var. 103° 10' w.

could not approach it in a direct line on account of ice. The

wind then shifted to the northward, and obliged us to stand

towards the west, in which direction the greatest extent of clear

water appeared to be. The land to the northward of Whale

Sound appeared to be very mountainous, and to take a

westerly direction. I named the capes on this side after

Lieutenants Parry and Robertson ; and to a Sound which lies

to the north of Cape Stair, I gave the name of Booth Sound.

These two inlets were not so large as the first, and were both

filled with ice. At nine P.M. the weather became very clear,

and Carey's Islands were discovered ; these also agreed with

the description of Baffin, and appeared to be twelve leagues

from the main, which bore from it about north. The sea was

now clearer of floes and loose ice than we had ever seen it ;

but we found a vast number of very large icebergs, most of

which were aground in two hundred and fifty fathoms, and

appeared to have been long washed by the waves. The wind,

which was from the north, freshened so much, as to prevent us

from fetching these islands ; and being anxious to get as near

them as possible, I made all sail, and left the Alexander at a

considerable distance.

We continued our course the whole night, until eight in the
morning, when we found ourselves abreast of the westernmost
of the islands above-mentioned, and stood for a large iceberg,

u 2

I . . • .

148

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

August 19. to which Captain Sabine and Mr. Bushnan were sent to take
Lat. 76° 28J' N. observations for time and variation, with directions to remain

Long. 73 ] 9f ' W.

Y'ar. 1020 oo' w. there for the meridian altitude. In the mean time we tacked,
and stood to the N.E., to get a better view of Whale Sound,
and the land near it, and were soon convinced there was no
navigable passage in that direction. At noon we returned to
the iceberg for our boat, by which time the Alexander had
reached it; we exchanged signals with each other, and, on
comparison, found that the observations for latitude, longitude,
and variation, agreed in both ships. After this we resumed
our course to the westward, and Hackluit's Island of Baffin
was seen appearing very near to the main land. At two we
discovered land to the S.W., apparently about twenty-five
leagues off; every object seemed much raised by refraction,
and several observations were made, which confirmed what
has been already said on the subject. To the westward of
Hackluit's Island we discovered a cape, which I named after
Sir James Saumarez, in compliment to that gallant admiral,
under whose command I had served for many years ; the land
from thence trended to the north. It fell calm about seven
P.M., when a party was sent to observe azimuths; in which
they were, however, disappointed, by a fog coming on soon
after they reached the nearest iceberg; but the dip of the
magnetic needle was observed. Soon after the return of the
boats, a fresh breeze sprung up, and I had hopes of being able to
examine the great bay, which appeared to the north, and
through which a passage might possibly be found. For this

-twspa

■■c yw^rnrw^.- y^gy^tw^.. »--*g>4T -<'»^>e^

' \>

■i <■ .V ;

P^^^4^4mtl^Jr^^

TO TOE ARCTIC REGIONS.

purpose we bore up under all sail, but had not proceeded August 19, at Mid
above ten miles, when a very thick fog came on, accompanied L 7go ' , N
with a considerable swell. We ran to the northward through Long. 7 4° 20' w.

. . . • -i 1 1 • i • ii Var.l03° 00' W.

much loose ice, about six miles, when the wind increased and
obliged us to close reef the topsails ; and it being imprudent
to run under such circumstances, I hauled to the westward.

At ten it cleared up and moderated a little, and I made the
signal for Lieutenant Parry, when, having delivered to him
some additional sealed instructions, to be opened in the case
of parting company, I bore up again to make out the situa-
tion of the land ; Carey's Islands were then in sight to the
S.E. of us. It continued clear until near one in the morning,
and the sun passing in azimuth below the pole, along the tops

of the mountains, gave us an excellent view of the bottom of
this bay. Smith's Sound, discovered by Baffin, was distinctly
seen, and the capes forming each side of it were named after
the two ships, Isabella and Alexander ; I considered the bottom
of this Sound to be about eighteen leagues distant, but its
entrance was completely blocked up by ice ; a thick fog soon
came on, and we again hauled to the westward.

During the time we were running before the wind for this
Sound, every precaution was taken to avoid accident ; look-
out men were placed at the mast-heads, yard-arms, and jib-
boom-end, while the lead was kept going. When we hauled
our wind, we were a considerable distance from the Alexander,
which gave us an opportunity of sounding with the deep-sea
clamms ; we found one hundred and ninety-two fathoms, and

150

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

R'U

i I

V H-

August 20. obtained a quantity of grey mud, with stones, and some
Lat. 76 461 N. chocolate-coloured clay in which some worms were found ; and

Long. 75° 21 1' W.

Var. 1020 oo' w. the large icebergs, which we passed in great numbers, were also
a proof that the water was not shallow.

August 20. We were now, by our reckoning, in latitude
76° 54' N., Cape Saumarez ten leagues distant, and Carey's
Islands bearing about S.E. Having determined that there was
no passage further to the northward, I stood under easy sail
to the S.W. for ten miles further, during which we had much
difficulty to avoid the loose ice with which the sea was covered,
and it becoming thicker the nearer we approached the shore, in
this position we hove to, for the fog to clear away. At seven
the gale considerably abated, we hauled to the N.N.E., taking
the precautions already described to avoid danger.

We ran from nine A.M. until four P.M., when it suddenly
cleared, and we saw the nearest land at a distance of six
leagues, bearing N.W.; to the north-eastward there appeared
a bay which we judged to extend to latitude 77° 45' N., but
the land was distinctly seen beyond it forming a chain of
mountains from Smith's Sound to the westward. It was my
intention to have examined this bay, which was evidently the
northernmost, in order to determine more accurately its
geographical situation ; but a firm field of ice occupied the
whole of its vast surface, at the outer edge of which lay a
ridge of large icebergs apparently aground, which, I con-
jectured, were formed on the coast to the westward, where
the sea was deep near the rocks, and that they must have been

■«^i-., > *>~^ ^

- . >- v.^.<r..-.: v.r-r.. -.v^*: bstum&a MBK

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

151

driven on shore there by strong southerly gales. There were August 20.

Lat. 76°46i'N.

two capes within this bay, one of which I named after Captain Long. 750 211'vv
Hurd, in compliment to my friend, the hydrographer of the Var- 102° 00 ' w-
Admiralty, and the other after our worthy friend Mr. Mouat.

Having approached these icebergs as near as possible, I
made the signal for Lieutenant Parry, and gave him directions
to proceed with a party to the most convenient iceberg, in
order to make observations on the dip of the needle and
intensity of magnetic force, as also upon the rise, fall, direction,
and velocity of the tides. The magnetic dip was found to have
increased from 85° 44' 38" to 86° 9' 33" since the preceding day,
and the force, as ascertained by the oscillations, was also
found to have increased about one forty-eighth part ; a more
detailed account of these observations will be found in the
Appendix. The rise and fall of the tide was only four feet,
its velocity half a mile, and the flood setting to the north.
In the mean time I was employed in observing the deviation
on each point of the compass, and found it to be the same in
amount which it had been since the 4th of August, when
the variation was 90°, and the dip of the needle 84° 52' 6".
This observation is peculiarly important in any theory that may
be adopted respecting the deviation of the needle, as it proves
that it is not necessarily dependent on the quantity of horizontal
force exerted by the needle; since when that force had
materially diminished, the quantity and force of the deviating
tendency remained unaltered.

Whilst we were thus employed, Lieutenant Robertson, and

1I1

152

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

August 21. other officers, were stationed at the mast-head to look out

Lat 76° 3°*' N.

Long. 76° zi' w". ^0r ^ie direction of the coast; and they made their reports,

Var. io5° oo' w. that they were satisfied they had seen the land completely

round this bay at different times; as did also the officers of the

Alexander, who were at the mast-head of that ship at the same

time.

Whatever my own notions respecting the real nature of
the space passed over in the foregoing run, from Cape Saumarez
to Cape Clarence, might have been, and whatever my own
expectations were, as to the probability of an opening in this
direction ; the ardour existing at home for the discovery of
a north-west passage, and the confidence with which the sup-
posed situation of such an opening has been transferred to one
spot as fast as it was found not to exist in another, render
it necessary to recapitulate the circumstances which disprove
its existence in this place, which forms the northernmost
extremity of Baffin's Bay.

On the 19th of August, at fifty minutes past midnight, the
ship being nearly on the seventy-seventh degree of north latitude,
ten leagues to the westward of Cape Saumarez, which forms
the east side and the bottom of this bay, the land was dis-
tinctly seen. On the 20th and 21st, when off Cape Clarence, at
the distance of six leagues, the land which forms the west side,
and the bottom of this bay, was also distinctly seen by the above-
mentioned officers and myself, and by these two observations
the coast is determined to be connected all round. At each
of these periods this immense bay was observed to be covered

~v:

*~-z-c y.^^-r .v.***** v's^^ji— ^wMryi

■«yi*(35

m&&a§&&s,

.r"~ Bft

TO THE AKCTIC REGIONS.

J 53

with field-ice; besides which, a vast chain of large icebergs August 21.
was seen to extend across it ; these were apparently aground, Lat' ?6° 32r N"

ir J 6 w ""'Long. 76° 54|'W.

and had probably been driven on shore there by southerly
gales. It was also observed, that the tide rose and fell only
four feet, and that the stream of it was scarcely perceptible.
From these several considerations it appears perfectly
certain that the land is here continuous, and that there is no
opening at the northernmost part of Baffin's Bay from
Hackluit's Island to Cape Clarence. Even if it be imagined,
by those who are unwilling to concede their opinions while
there is yet a single yarn of their hypothesis holding, that
some narrow Strait may exist through these mountains, it is
evident, that it must for ever be unnavigable, and that there
is not even a chance of ascertaining its existence, since all
approach to the bottoms of these bays is prevented by the
ice which fills them to so great a depth, and appears never to
have moved from its station.

Being thus satisfied that there could be no further induce-
ment to continue longer in this place, and it being necessary
to husband the little time yet remaining, for the work which
was still to be done, I ordered accurate bearings of the
different headlands to be taken, and, having named the
remarkable cape forming the west side of the bay, after the
Duke of Clarence, in commemoration of the birth-day of his
Royal Highness, I shaped my course on the morning of
the 21st towards the next opening which appeared in view to
the westward.

/.*" '

i><

HS^OBSSSSi

rr'ovi

154

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

August ci. The land forming Cape Clarence is exceedingly high, the

Long. 760 54r w. mountains peaked and generally covered with snow, the tops
Var. io8° oo' w. of them appearing above the clouds ; the precipices only being
black, as they were too perpendicular for the snow to rest
upon. A view of this part of the coast was taken by Mr.
Bushnan, and will be found in the plate. An easterly breeze
springing up, we proceeded to explore the opening which I
have mentioned was in sight, and which answered to the
description of Alderman Jones's Sound, given by Baffin, who
discovered it.

We ran nine miles among very heavy ice, until noon, when
a very thick fog coming on, we were obliged to take shelter
under a large iceberg.

Since our leaving Wolstenholme Island, the ice which we met
with had assumed a very different character from any we had
before met with ; it had generally a green tint, and appeared
to have been a long time at sea, without, however, being in a
state of decay : it was in huge pieces of irregular forms heaped
upon each other by some tremendous force, and then frozen
together. This being the nature of the ice between us and
the land, a communication with it was impossible ; a large piece
of gneiss was, however, obtained from a berg which had, most
probably, been separated from this part of the coast. The
land from this Cape towards the west presented some deep
ravines, which were filled with ice that extended far into the
sea, in the manner before described ; there was no appearance
of vegetation, nor did the land appear habitable ; very few

-*«?<«?

~v:r~f v it

.« v i ' ; ^

- •■■aEMBagasmas

^SSSH^HSSPS^^PT:

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

155

birds were seen, and no whales, or any other living creatures August 22.
than seals, which were, however, in abundance. Lat' 76° 32*' N'

Long. 77° 04' W.

Several copper cylinders, containing an account of our pro- Var. 1070 56' w.
ceedings, were left on the floating ice, within these forty-eight
hours ; we sounded here in one hundred and ten fathoms, and
completed our water. During the fogs we had been lately
visited with, the ropes were covered with ice, which rendered
every evolution difficult, and, at the same time, prevented
every kind of observation. Here I had an opportunity of
correcting some differences between the Alexander's reckoning
and the Isabella's; and I supposed that the deviation of the
former must have changed to produce this difference. I also
ordered, that the officers of the watch in the Alexander should
write the rough log as soon as their watches were ended; and,
mentioning every particular, sign their initials opposite the hour,
in the same manner that was practised in the Isabella, as those
differences might have arisen from mistakes in copying the log.

August 22. A very thick fog and a calm continued until a
few minutes before noon ; when the sun appeared, and we had
an excellent meridian altitude on the iceberg, by reflection,
which gave the latitude 76° 30' N. ; completely proving that the
reckoning of the Isabella was correct, and that the furthest
north the ship had been was 76° 55' N., at which time she was
in longitude 74° 56' 48" W. At half past three we had
good altitudes for time, and found our longitude to be
77° 4' 6" W.; and, soon after, we had azimuths, which gave
the variation 108° W. The Alexander's observations agreeing

x 2

.LiH'

August 23.
Lat. 76° 37' N.
Long. 77° 04' W.

156

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

with the Isabella, proved also that the former ship had been
much further north than her reckoning, from noon on the
19th until noon on the 20th, had given ; and by working her
courses back from this latitude and longitude, it appeared, that,
at fifty minutes past midnight, on the 19th, we had been beyond
the seventy-seventh degree. Observations were also made this
day on the magnetic dip, by Jones's instrument, and they
were found to agree with Mr. Browne's; it having been
discovered, that the correction for error, marked on the former
ought to have been 4' instead of 4°, which was the quantity
inadvertently given as required for adjustment, and they both
gave the dip of 86° 25'.

August 23. The weather this day was not foggy near the
ships, but it was so thick all round the horizon, that it
prevented our seeing the land, or the situation of the ice,
which surrounded us in every direction. The iceberg to which
we were moored had drifted, during the night, into ninety-
eight fathoms, with a stony bottom. The wind being too
light to make progress in beating to windward, I could not get
under weigh ; but, soon after divine service, a breeze sprung
up from the southward, when the ships were cast loose5 and the
sails set. The sun's meridian altitude was observed on the
iceberg, and the latitude found to be 76° 37' N., the iceberg
having drifted three miles to the northward.

We now stood for the Sound which we had seen on the 21st,
tacking and bearing up occasionally to avoid the ice, which
was generally from six to twelve feet thick, very uneven, and

^»V • >-.-«BC

>H '.( -• 'M

48&aRS§&BEB&

^E^55r3!5!!^K3P"^P?

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

in pieces of various shapes ; so that it was impossible to keep August 23.
clear of it, and the ship unavoidably received some severed _„0 ? ,.-,'

' r J Long. 770 04 W

shocks, but fortunately no damage. Towards evening we Var. 107° 56' w

successively made out the north and south points of the land

across the bottom of this bay, or inlet, which answered Baffin's

description of Jones's Sound. At midnight, a ridge of very

high mountains was seen to extend nearly across the bottom

of it, and joining another from the south, which was not quite

so high. The bay was completely blocked with ice, in which

were some very large icebergs ; and from the points of land

glaciers of solid ice were seen extending for many miles into

the sea. It was evident that there could be no passage in that

direction, and we, therefore, began to beat to the southward

having named the above-mentioned Capes Hardwicke and

Caledon, after those distinguished noblemen. At eleven P.M.,

a piece of fir wood was picked up : it had nails in it, and

the marks of the plane and adze were also evident. This seems

to prove that it must have drifted up the bay, probably by

the strong southerly winds. Many seals were seen, and the

tracks of bears were visible on the ice in many places.

August 24. The weather continued clear until four P.M.,
and we had a still better view of the land about Jones's
Sound. We, therefore, stood towards the southern point,
where there appeared some chance of nearing the land ; but,
after beating for some time, it fell calm, and soon afterwards a
thick fog obliged us to make fast, being unable to see the
passages through the ice, which were continually changing;

' *"■ r

158

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVE11Y

August 24. and, after some time, the Alexander joined us. This position

Lat. 76°15'N. ' •.',,;„

Long. 78° is' .w. was remarkable for variety in the depth of water, and quality
of the substances at the bottom. When we made fast we had
seventy-eight fathoms, soon afterwards we had one hundred
and sixty, then eighty-five, then two hundred, one hundred
and fifty, and one hundred and eighty-five, within a short time
of each other ; in the shallowest water we had muddy sand and
shells ; at one time a small piece of coral ; at eighty-five
fathoms we had rocky bottom ; at one hundred and sixty,
stones ; at two hundred, mud ; and at one hundred and fifty,
mixed blue and grey clay, with worms in it. A great number
of seals were seen, and the traces of a bear, of an extraordinary
size, the marks of his fore paw measuring fifteen by thirteen
inches, and his hind paw twenty by twelve. We had no
observations this day, on account of the thick fog, and the ice
was too unsteady for the dipping needle ; but the night was
remarkable for its having been the first on which the sun had
been observed to set since the 7th of June; thus terminating a
day, which consisted of one thousand eight hundred and
seventy-two hours, and giving us a warning of the approach of
a long and dreary winter.

August 25. About midnight it cleared up, and we again
saw the land, and had, for the third time, a view of Jones's
Sound, and of a bay to the southward of it, which I named
Lady Anne's Bay. The cape to the north was also named
Cape Lindsay ; and the mountains at the bottom, which were
the highest we had yet seen, were named Barnard's Mountains.

-■■*"?"■ *

n-?ir.

' -M,

<4*oM3

£i3S5ES5«££

^E^SrSES^JT^p?:

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

159

i'W.

As it became quite calm, all boats were employed in towing ; August 25.
and, passing through much heavy ice, we came to some very Lat' ?6° 10 N*

, . , J Long. 78° 30' W,

large icebergs, which lay aground on the edge of a bank, on Var. 1090 58§'
which we found fifty-seven fathoms water. We were now about
seven or eight miles from the land ; I made fast to an iceberg, in
order to try the magnetic dip and force.

The fog was extremely thick on the surface of the sea, but
at the mast-head, and at the top of the iceberg, it was per-
fectly clear, and from thence we had good observations. This
berg was one hundred and four feet high, six hundred feet
long, and four hundred feet broad ; the dip here was found to
have decreased to 86°.

About eight, a light breeze sprung up, but it was directly
against us, and nothing could be gained by casting off among
so much ice; we, therefore, remained at our moorings. We
sounded in sixty fathoms, and at several casts obtained stones
and shells, at others, sand, mud, and worms \ the ice, which
drew much water, passed the berg to the southward, but the
small pieces drifted to the northward. It is worthy of remark,
that the icebergs here were only three-fourths under water!
while those to the south were five-sixths. As we had reason
to think we were in the N.W. corner of the bay, I caused a
flag-staff to be erected, at the bottom of which a copper
cylinder containing the usual remarks, was buried, and
another was thrown overboard. The rise and fall of
the tide was observed this day (the 25th of the moon) to
be ten inches ; but the direction or velocity of the stream

: f

160

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

August 26. was not perceptible. Seals were the only living creatures seen

Lat. 76° 44' N. ,, . ,
Long. 78° 28' W. thlS <%'

Var. iio° oo' w. August 26. At half-past six the sun having considerable
power over the fog, we could see about a cable's length from
the ships ; and I thought it advisable to attempt getting a
little further to the southward, as we had seen the land as far
asS. by E. ; we therefore made sail, keeping company with the
Alexander by musquetry. At intervals we had a clear suffi-
cient to let us see we were within six miles of the land,
which had now decidedly taken a southerly direction. We
kept the lead going, and had various soundings ; when the
water was under sixty fathoms we had rocky bottom, between
sixty and seventy fathoms we had coral, and above that mud ;
the shoalest water we had was forty-five, and the deepest
eighty-five fathoms. We discovered this to be a bank extending
along the land, in a north and south direction, at the distance
of five or six leagues : on it a vast quantity of icebergs
were aground, and round them a vast number of smaller pieces
of ice were floating. On one of these a very large piece of
granite was seen, and I sent a boat to tow it alongside, intend-
ing to hoist it in, but unfortunately it slipped out of the
slings and sunk. Some specimens of this and other stones were,
however, preserved by both ships.

A party was this day sent to an iceberg, and the variation
was obtained by azimuth. It was also determined that the
point of change in deviation, as well as its amount, continued
the same as it was found to be on the 19th. By a meridian

"X&Sf'S

4V£(3

£?«&SS£SE

5^3S35SEIS^I!?S?C

•i

• •

M v

•Mtek^Ma

■* air.

=~^^^=-e--~-^~«---.- -^^^laLi^aaa^fc

)]

■ fft H

^^^^^^.^^-y^^^y-v

m^35*^?£l$gg}&gr^JJ^yf&J^ S»5»5r2l

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

161

altitude of the sun, we found we had made four miles southing August 26.
in the twenty-four hours. It was evident, that the nearer we Lat' 76° 04 N'

Long. 78° 28' W.

approached the land the ice was the more compact; and, being var. 1100 00' w.
of the nature before described, it was impossible to com-
municate with the shore ; I therefore thought it unadvisable
to attempt to penetrate nearer, when it was certain nothing
could be gained by it. On this ice the tracks of bears were
every where visible, but none of these animals were discovered.
Several birds of the peterel kind were shot and preserved.
Towards evening the land to the southward was seen as far
as the S.S.W. point of the compass. On this coast numerous
and immense glaciers of ice were seen, extending into the sea
for several miles. Off the southernmost point, a very remark-
able conical rock, with a small one near it, of similar form,
was seen; and, when abreast of it, a large bay, which was
filled by a glacier, extending quite across it* was seen ; this I
named Cobourg Bay; and the headland before mentioned,
Cape Leopold, in compliment to his Royal Highness the
Prince Leopold. The remarkable rock near it was-^ named
Princess Charlotte's Monument, after our lamented Princess ;
and a view of these, taken by myself, will be found in the
engravings.

162

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

CHAPTER X.

FURTHER PROGRESS TO THE SOUTHWARD FIND OPEN SEA DISCOVER,

AND GIVE NAMES TO, VARIOUS HEADLANDS AND BAY ARRIVE

AT LANCASTER SOUND, AND EXPLORE IT TAKE POSSESSION OF THE

COUNTRY EXTRAORDINARY VARIATION OF THE COMPASS CON-
TINUE EXPLORING THE COAST TO THE SOUTHWARD.

August 27. Q^j- th 27th f August, we continued our course to the

Lat. 75° 40' N. & '

Long. 77° 08' w. southward, and, by the continuation of the easterly winds,
were enabled to make a good stretch along the land, which
I distinctly saw as far as S.W. In passing Cobourg Bay, we
discovered that it was completely occupied by an impenetrable
glacier of ice, and the chain of mountains which has been
already described, was seen to extend to the southward
without interruption. The Cape which formed the southern
boundary of Cobourg Bay was named after Captain Horsburg,
in compliment to the hydrographer to the Honourable East
India Company. From thence the land took a direction
due south, when a very bold and high promontory was seen
about six miles to the southward, which was named Cape
Cockburn, in compliment to Sir George, one of the Lords
of the Admiralty. This Cape is situated in latitude

;i^^v^^s.^O-?BftO>>^.; V

.- _£H^S3$S^SE«£^3?^^

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

163

74° 49' and longitude 78° 45' W. It resembles the coast August $7.
between it and Cape Clarence, being completely covered with ^ 7£Q ^ *•
snow, except where the precipices are too perpendicular for it
to lie upon. The valleys and ravines were rilled with ice,
and the coast rendered totally inaccessible by surrounding
masses, such as have been already described.

The wind having increased, we got considerably a head of
the Alexander, and explored a spacious bay to the south of
Cape Cockburn, which I named Banks Bay, after the Right
Honourable Baronet and President of the Royal Society.

This bay, like the last, was occupied by ice, and surrounded
by a continuation of the mountains which have been already
mentioned. Here I was obliged to shorten sail for the Alex-
ander, the weather becoming thick ; and we lost sight of the
land, having made twenty-five miles southing. When the Alex-
ander came up we again made sail, and having proceeded about
twelve miles further, which I calculated would bring me as
far south as I had distinctly seen the land and determined
its situation, I shortened sail ; and, under the topsails,
endeavoured to maintain our position, which I judged to be
the most favourable one for pushing on in any direction that
circumstances might point out. Our progress which, during
the last twenty-four hours, was thirty-six miles in distance, was
accomplished with considerable difficulty, from the innumerable
masses of ice with which we were surrounded. Sometimes we
were obliged to bear up, and, by giving the ship fresh way
through the water, endeavour to separate the masses of ice

I :

164

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

"'I

August 27. which lay in streams across our course. In this we occasionally
w. 77° os' w. succeeded> and the Isabella being larger and a better
sailer than the Alexander, consequently her momentum more
powerful, she had, as in the whole of our progress through
the ice, a decided advantage in a breeze. But this operation
often failed, and we were then obliged to have recourse to
warping hawsers, in order to heave the ship through, or
extricate her from the situation into which she had been
thrown ; at other times we were obliged to make several tacks
to weather certain large masses, or to enable us to fetch
the most likely place to be penetrated.

In all these manoeuvres, the greatest care is requisite to
avoid the tongues, or projections of the ice under water,
which are often at the depth of six or eight feet. For the
purpose of observing them, experienced seamen are placed
on each bow, who, on discovering the danger by the green
appearance of the water, call out, Starboard, or Port, as
the occasion may require, thereby directing the helmsman to
steer clear of it. Although the leading ship has in these cases
some disadvantages in forcing through the ice, being the
first to break it, and thereby make a passage for the next,
yet the ship which follows has difficulties, which more
than balance the advantage of sailing through a breach
already made ; for, if her leader passes between pieces of
ice with considerable velocity, through any narrow channel,
some of these pieces immediately receive a tendency towards
the space the ship had occupied, in order to fill up where the

WWi

»<Z^B»K."'£^*vAuvv

. r^^SK55«^'«^^^-^?^^^>^^^^^ !5»W*3&3£

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 16a

water had been displaced. They therefore rush towards August 27.
the ship's wake; their motion being; also often accelerated at' 75„ 40, '

1 & Long. 77° 08' W.

by the concussion of the ship against some particular
piece, which produces a re-action in the rest. Hence it
generally happens, that when the ship astern arrives at the
entrance of the channel, she has more difficulties to encounter
than her leader, from the accumulation of pieces in the passage.
It is also not uncommon for the obstruction to be so great
as to render forcing through totally impracticable ; this often
happened to the Alexander, but it only served to redouble
the zeal and perseverance of her commander, officers, and
crew, who were unremitting in their labours, to keep up
with the Isabella. The unavoidable detention arising from these
circumstances, and the inferiority of that ship in sailing, were
not more than sufficient to give me an opportunity of exploring
the coast as I passed it, by enabling me, without loss of time,
to stand in whenever it was clear, and make the necessary
observations.

The spot at which we had now arrived was more clear of
ice than any place we had seen since we left Cape Clarence,
and we observed in it a little swell from the south-eastward.
The fog being excessively thick, and the ropes covered with
ice, we had no chance of being able to penetrate any further
if we had desired it, but we continued standing off and on, one
hour on each tack, in hopes of the return of clear weather. This,
however, did not take place, and we were overtaken by
darkness, the length of the nights having very considerably

I H

Ml II

, I:

1; 1, >

a pa

< 1 iftr ''

S i'f

I r1

166

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

■

August 28. increased, both by our progress to the south, and the decrease
Lat. 75° 27 N. ^n ^e sun's declination. In this situation we kept company

Long. 77° 52' W. . .

with the Alexander by musketry, until about midnight, when
a large pack of ice drifted upon us, and, closing up our pool,
obliged us to stand to the eastward. This day, which was the
last of the sun and moon's being in distance, closed, and
completed our disappointment in not getting a lunar observa-
tion for the whole quarter, which would have been of much
importance to us ; we sounded, but had no ground in three
hundred fathoms, and there was too much drift to obtain
soundings in deeper water. Two bottles, containing an account
of our proceedings, were thrown over-board in latitude 75° 24',
and longitude 78° 21', about one P.M.

August 28. During the night we had snow and thick rain,
and were much annoyed with pack ice; and, at one time, were
in much danger of being beset, but we carried sail, and forced
ourselves to the eastward, in which direction clear water was
discerned at day-light. At three we succeeded in getting
completely clear of ice, and once more found ourselves in
the open sea ; and, at the same time, observed a considerable
swell from the S.S.E., in which direction we had the wind.
The thick rain continued until five A.M., then it gradually
ceased, and was succeeded by cloudy weather, and very little
wind. The body of the packed ice was seen to the true north,
extending from S.W. to E. At noon we had an indifferent
observation, and made several tacks to weather the ice, but
made very little way in consequence of the swell. At length

*^*^^.^«C^-y^>».sra

. ^fc^^ESs^'sssa^^^s^

iij

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 167

we succeeded, and a light breeze carried us on five leagues August ss.
towards the S.W. Between three and four the weather cleared Lat' 75!27, *

Long. 77 52 W.

up, and gave us a view of the land, which consisted of
mountains, being the highest we had jet seen, and the height
of which I estimated at four thousand feet. The nearest land
to us was that which formed the southern point of Banks Bay,
and to which I now gave the name of Cape Cunningham,
after my old friend and commander, the Commissioner of His
Majesty's Navy at Woolwich ; and the mountains were also
named Cuninghame Mountains, in compliment to some other
friends of that name. The southern extremity of the land, which
bore S.S.E., I named Cape Charlotte, and it is in latitude
74° 32' N., and longitude 7.9° 30' W. This extent of land could
not be approached nearer than five leagues, on account of the
packed ice, of that impenetrable description already men-
tioned ; but on the other hand, the sea to the westward, from
south to north, nothing but clear water was to be seen, the ice
seeming to be packed into the bottom of Baffin's Bay, by the
southerly gales. The ship continued to beat along the coast
in a direction nearly on the meridian, and we proceeded slowly
to the southward. The mountains from Cape Cunningham,
towards the south, now appeared to be only partially covered
with snow ; and, even at the very tops of them, which were
visible above the clouds, black rocks were plainly seen. Their
sides, as they appeared from the sea, were almost clear of
snow ; and, for this short distance, the country appeared as

I!'."

CT!

Hi!
■ !

168

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

■

'•, i

August 29. habitable as that part of the opposite coast, which we found to
Ta' wo0n,,'w be actually inhabited.

Long. 78 01 \ W. J

Var, 1130 00' w. We sounded occasionally, and had regularly two hundred
and forty fathoms ; and, by means of the deep-sea clamms,
obtained a quantity of mud and clay, in which worms were
, found. At one cast a piece of granite also was brought up,
which weighed more than a pound. Towards midnight a very
thick fog came on, but we continued our course to the south-
ward, in the direction of the furthest land we had seen.

August 29- The fog still continued, and we proceeded as
before, keeping a good look-out, and sounding whenever we
got far enough a-head of the Alexander not to detain her by
that operation, and finding from two hundred to two hundred
and forty fathoms. At noon the fog cleared away, and, at four,
we got to a considerable distance from the edge of the ice,
when the temperature of the water on the surface was found to
be 36°, being an increase of 4°, which I considered to be the
natural consequences of the absence of ice, together with our
advance to the south. The land to the southward was seen,
but not perfectly distinct until 5h 30m; when the fog, after
being very thick for a short interval, cleared entirely away, and
we saw it from south to north-west : the mountains near Cape
Charlotte bore west. We shortened sail for the Alexander,
after we had made out the land, and sounded in two hundred
and ten fathoms. Between Cape Charlotte and the land, which
bore south, a wide opening appeared ; but the wind shifting

* J2tiS3&^W$SE£&F**

■*ssi«eswwMS

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

169

to the west, I could not stand in to this opening to explore it, Lat Au^f ^ N-
and, therefore, stood to the southward ; but, at ten P.M., the Long. 78° 33' w.
wind changed to south, and I tacked, and stood in under all
sail. The swell continued from the S.S.E., and, at midnight,
the weather was very thick and foggy.

August 30. The weather being still thick and cloudy, we
continued to steer so as to gain the middle of the opening,
making about a south by west course ; but the wind was light
and variable, and not much progress was made. About four we
had a shower of rain, and soon afterwards the fog cleared away
a little, and we saw two icebergs at a considerable distance ;
we then altered our course, in the manner most likely to answer
for getting to the westward, and carried all sail. About ten we
saw the land, which forms the northern side of the opening,
extending from west to north, in a chain of high mountains,
covered with snow. Soon afterwards the south side of this
opening was discovered, extending from S.W. to S.E., forming
also a chain of very high mountains. In the space, between
west and south-west, there appeared a yellow sky, but no land
was seen, nor was there any ice on the water, except a few
icebergs ; the opening, therefore, took the appearance of a
channel, the entrance of which was judged to be forty-five
miles; the land on the north side lying in an E.N.E. and
W.S.W. direction, and the south side nearly east and west.

Having had good observations for time, and a meridian
altitude of the sun, the latitude and longitude were accurately
determined ; and, at the same time, the bearings of the land

,''

170

a «tii

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

August so. were taken and registered. Divine service was performed-

Lat. 74° I9|' Ni j • , r

Long. 78° 33' w. and' in the a"ernoon, the wind having obliged us to stand to
Var. iio° w. the south side, we had an excellent view of the most magni-
ficent chain of mountains, which I had ever beheld. These
mountains, and the cape which terminates them, and forms
the eastern extremity of the land on that side of the channel,
were named after Sir Byam Martin, in compliment to my
most esteemed friend, the Comptroller of His Majesty's Navy ;
and the various capes and bays, which were formed in this
track of land, were named after his amiable family and nearest
relatives, as a mark of my respect and regard for them. These
mountains, which take their rise at the sea, at Cape Byam
Martin in the east, and from a low plain, near Catherine's
Bay, in the west, terminate in sharp lofty peaks; and the
rocks which form them being, on one side or the other, and
often on every side, too perpendicular for the snow to rest
upon, are distinctly seen above it, displaying the most
remarkable, as well as wonderful, appearances. In one place,
nearly between Cape Fanshawe and Elizabeth's Bay, two
rocks, resembling human figures of a gigantic size, were seen
in a sitting posture, on the very highest peak ; and, as it was
considerably above the clouds, their appearance was both
extraordinary and interesting.

The snow appeared deep in the valleys of the interior, but
the ravines next the sea were only partly filled with it, and the
precipices near the foot of the mountains were perfectly bare.
The low and level tract of land which has already been

*«*S

Rv'i

.,>

\t i

\ i»

^^^^^^.--y^y-y^^^^

-■J&T2!&S§&%Z3nSi&E&^.^*!&Jtt 3«$2«3&^

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

171

described to form Catherine's Bay, was also perfectly clear August 30.
of snow, and was, to all appearance, the most habitable Lat' 7V9! N'

rr Long. 78° 33 W.

situation on the coast. The rest of the day was spent in Var. no°w.
beating to the westward, all sail was carried, and every
advantage taken of the changes in the direction and strength
of the wind. As the evening closed the wind died away, the
weather became mild and warm, the water much smoother,
and the atmosphere clear and serene. The mountains on
each side of the Strait, being clear of clouds, had beautiful
tints of various colours. For the first time we discovered that
the land extended from the south two-thirds across this apparent
Strait, but the fog which continually occupied that quarter,
obscured its real figure ; in this position we had good obser-
vations for time, and the dip sector and Kater's altitude
instrument were used, and the temperature of the water
at four o'clock was 36|, exactly in the centre of the mouth of
the Strait. The close of this evening was remarkable for the
appearance of Capella, the first star we had seen for twelve
weeks.

During this day much interest was excited on board by
the appearance of this Strait ; the general opinion, however, was
that it was only an inlet. Captain Sabine, who produced
Baffin's account, was of opinion, that we were off Lancaster
Sound, and that there were no hopes of a passage until we
should arrive at Cumberland Strait ; to use his own words,
there was " no indication of a passage," " no appearance of
" a current," " no driftwood," and " no swell from the north-

,.."■'

\VA

"-• - - — ■

■■

I '1

172

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

■ 1 1

VI!

Aug. 31. Noon. " west." On the contrary, the land was partially seen extend-
at 7V , ' ins across, the vellow sky Avas perceptible; and, as we advanced.

Long. 80° 37 W. ° ' J J r r

Var. in°oo' w. the temperature of the water began to decrease. The mast-
head and crow's-nest was crowded with those who were most
anxious, but nothing was finally decided at the setting of the
sun.

Soon after midnight the wind began to shift, and the ship
came gradually up, enabling us to stand directly up the bay :
I, therefore, made all sail, and left the Alexander considerably
astern. At a little before four o'clock, A.M., the land was seen
at the bottom of the inlet by the officers of the watch ; but
before I got upon deck, a space of about seven degrees of the
compass was obscured by the fog. The land which I then saw
was a high ridge of mountains, extending directly across the
bottom of the inlet. This chain appeared extremely high in
the centre, and those towards the north had, at times, the
appearance of islands, being insulated by the fog at their bases.
Although a passage in this direction appeared hopeless, I was
determined completely to explore it, as the wind was favour-
able ; and, therefore, continued all sail. At eight the wind fell a
little, and the Alexander being far astern I sounded, and found
six hundred and seventy-four fathoms, with a soft muddy
bottom. There was, however, no current, and the temperature
of the mud was 29|°. Soon after this the breeze freshened, and
we carried all sail, leaving the Alexander, and steering directly
up the bay. The weather was now variable, being cloudy and
clear at intervals. Mr. Beverley, who was the most sanguine,

I \ m i»

iwmt

^>^^^^>.^^-v^^:

. «a25BB$s^ffiM^»^^^^

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

173

went up to the crow's-nest; and, at twelve, reported to me, that Aug. 31. at 6 p.m.

, „ . ,.,,!, 111 ,i , Lat. 74° 03' N.

before it came thick, he had seen the land across the bay, Lonw gl0 2g, w

except for a very short space. The land to the S.E. was Var. 11 4° 00' w.

very distinct, and I had an excellent transit and bearing of

Cape Byam Martin and Cape Fanshawe, with the ship's head

on the point of the change, for the purpose of determining the

variation, should no azimuths be obtained, notice of which

will be taken hereafter. Although all hopes were given up,

even by the most sanguine, that a passage existed, and the

weather continued thick, I determined to stand higher up, and

put into any harbour I might discover, for the purpose of

making magnetical observations. Here I felt the want of a

consort, which I could employ to explore a coast, or discover

a harbour ; but the Alexander sailed so badly, and was so

leewardly, that she could not safely be employed on such a

service. During this day we shortened sail several times, to

prevent our losing sight of her altogether. As we stood up the

bay two capes on the south side were discovered, one of which

I named after the Earl of Liverpool ; and the land was named

Cape Hay, which formed the boundary on one side of

Catherine's Bay before mentioned. On the north side a

remarkable conical rock, the only island on this part of

the coast, was discovered, and named Sir George Hope's

Monument, after my lamented friend, one of the Lords of the

Admiralty, who had recommended me for the command of this

expedition, and whose signature of my orders on his death-bed,

was the last act of his valuable life.

: 1

■M

■
BID

^ 111 L.

174

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

■

1 i

Aug. 31. at 6 p.m. About one, the Alexander being nearly out of sight to the
T „,o na, «r eastward, we hove to for half an hour, to let her come up a

Long. 81 28 W. »

Var. ii4° w. little; and, at half past one, she being within six or seven
miles of us, we again made all sail. I intended to have
sounded during this interval, but I found the south-east swell
had so much increased, and the drift was so great, that it was
impracticable.

At half past two, (when I went off deck to dinner) there
were some hopes of its clearing, and I left orders to be called
on the appearance of land or ice a-head. At three, the officer
of the watch, who was relieved to his dinner by Mr. Lewis,
reported, on his coming into the cabin, that there was some
appearance of its clearing at the bottom of the bay ; I imme-
diately, therefore, went on deck, and soon after it completely
cleared for about ten minutes, and I distinctly saw the land, round
the bottom of the bay, forming a connected chain of mountains
with those which extended along the north and south sides.
This land appeared to be at the distance of eight leagues ; and
Mr. Lewis, the master, and James Haig, leading man, being
sent for, they took its bearings, which were inserted in the log;
the water on the surface was at temperature of 34°. At this
moment I also saw a continuity of ice, at the distance of seven
miles, extending from one side of the bay to the other, between
the nearest cape to the north, which I named after Sir George
Warrender, and that to the south, which was named after
Viscount Castlereagh. The mountains, which occupied the
centre, in a north and south direction, were named Croker's

*«Pfl

»; »!*

1 <

■w.rif-v'>-:('V-'--^«>oimi««>-'-^ .••^■t-v...^-v'ti^?

2fiiar

TRACK Or H. M. \f/IfS)

iSAliELLA&ALEXAXWER

. //v ■in

1818

mEZSSS&&WS£^tt^$tt*!&J^ 35«2«3&2£

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

175

Mountains, after the Secretary to the Admiralty. The south- Aug. 31. at 6 p.m.
west corner, which formed a spacious bay, completely occupied Lat' 74° 03' N*

u ! ^ , ^ > Long- 81° 28' W.

by ice, was named Barrows Bay, and is bounded on the Var. iu° 00' w.

south by Cape Castlereagh, and on the north by Cape Rosamond,

which is a head-land, that projects eastward from the high land

in the centre. The north corner, which was the last I had

made out, was a deep inlet ; and as it answered exactly to the

latitude given by Baffin of Lancaster Sound, I have no

doubt that it was the same, and consider it a most remarkable

instance of the accuracy of that able navigator*. At a

quarter past three, the weather again became thick and

unsettled ; and being now perfectly satisfied that there was no

passage in this direction, nor any harbour into which I could

enter, for the purpose of making magnetical observations, I

tacked to join the Alexander, which was at the distance of

eight miles ; and having joined her a little after four, we stood

to the south-eastward, but the swell was so great, and the wind

so baffling, that the ship's head could not be kept against the

sea ; this swell was probably increased from our proximity

to the margin of the ice, and it would have been imprudent

to have stood nearer to it under such circumstances. About

six it fell nearly calm for a short time, and we sounded with the

deep sea clamms, which brought up a quantity of mud, in

which were five worms of a species that had not been seen before.

* An accurate view of this bay, as seen at fifteen minutes past three, is given in
the plate, and also a special chart of the land.

JIV

1 ■ I

lii m

176

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

Ilk

,fr '

■

Aug. 31. at 6 p.m. There were only six hundred and fifty fathoms of line out,
Lat. 74° 03' N. consequently there could not be more than that depth of water ;

Long. 81° 28' W. I J

Var. ii4° oo' w. but there might have been much less, which was probably the

case, for the swell was so great, that it was uncertain, after two

hundred fathoms, when the machine reached the bottom. The

temperature of the mud was 29°, no current was found, and

neither the officers, nor myself, considered the great depth

of water any indication of a passage ; but, on the contrary,

we had always found that in bays near the land, on the

opposite coast *, the water was deepest ; and this can be

reckoned nothing uncommon, as it is the case over all the coast

of Lapland. At Kola there is no soundings for several leagues

up that river, which is only half a league wide, whereas, in the

entrance to the White Sea, there are only nine fathoms. The

same may be said of some parts of Norway and the Baltic.

We remained, however, in this position until near dark, and

the weather appearing more unsettled, it became advisable to

stand out of this dangerous inlet, in which we were embayed, being

within it above eighty miles. About eight a strong breeze came

on, and it was so dark and thick, that the Alexander could not

be seen. The motion of the ship being considerable, the whole

of the compasses ceased to act ; and there being no stars or

land in sight, the only method I could have of ascertaining

from what direction the breeze came, was by firing guns and

muskets to the Alexander, the bearings of which ship was

* Prince Regent's Bay, Three Islands, and North-East Bay, #c.

r I

*«P!

^^<rvr<^*r

^^^»^^^^^^^ij

• ^2&S8SG^?E!&&£i£&fr3£y. ^y^Jg«S»8»Mf

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

177

known, and being answered by guns, it was found by the Sept. 1.
report, that the breeze had sprung up from the southward, and a" - w
our course was shaped accordingly. Var. iio°oo'W.

At ten o'clock, however, the weather cleared, and we saw
Capella, by which we steered ; but, as the water became
smoother, in consequence of the south-west wind, the com_
passes began to traverse, and we continued our course towards
Cape Byam Martin. During the middle watch the Alexander
was hailed, and found to be steering the same course by
compass as the Isabella, namely, S.W., on which point the two
ships had, of course, the same deviation.

Sept. 1. At four, A.M., the above-mentioned Cape was in
sight, and we steered directly for it; but, in approaching it,
we took up the whole of the forenoon, which was, at intervals,
foggy. Towards noon, preparations were made for landing in
a small bay, to the northward of Cape Byam Martin, into
which the ship could just fetch ; and the signal to prepare two
boats for exploring was made to the Alexander, which had got
pretty near us. When within two leagues of this bay it fell
calm ; and, at one, the boats were despatched, under the
orders of Mr. Skene and Mr. Ross, to take possession of the
country. Captain Sabine, who thought the weather too foggy
for the dipping needle, went on shore with the Surgeon and
his Assistant, to collect specimens of natural history ; and I
directed Lieutenant Parry, as soon as he came on board, to
follow, and take command of the whole party; and to obtain,
if possible, some observations for ascertaining the variation of

2 A

i in

178

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

cpt. i. t^e compass They landed about two o'clock, and having
Long. 770 25' w. taken possession of the country, in the name and on behalf
' of His Britannic Majesty, with the usual forms, a flagstaff was
erected ; and, at its foot, a bottle, containing the proceedings
of our ships, was buried on the summit of a conical mount, near
the centre of the bay. In the mean time I was employed on
board, in sounding and in trying the current, and the tempera-
ture of the water. It being perfectly calm and smooth, I had an
excellent opportunity of determining these important objects.
Soundings were obtained correctly in one thousand fathoms, con-
sisting of soft mud, in which there were worms, and, entangled
on the sounding line, at the depth of eight hundred fathoms,
was found a beautiful caput medusa? : these were carefully pre-
served, and will be found described in the Appendix. To observe
the current the line was again dropped over, and the transit
bearings of two objects on the land set ; these, however, did
not vary in the least, nor did we find any current by the line.
The temperature of the water on the surface was at 34|°, and at
eighty fathoms 32° ; but as our self-registering thermometer
had been broken, and Captain Sabine's could not be got at,
as he was on shore, the temperature of the water, at a greater
depth, could not, therefore, be ascertained on board of the
Isabella, but it was tried at two hundred and fifty fathoms, in
the Alexander, and found to be 29§. These objects being
obtained, views were taken of the land ; and, at five, a light
breeze springing up from the eastward, I stood into the bay to
pick up the boats ; and, at the distance of two miles from the

rr^^%^rr*^*r.^**<*r^^x* >J

■

^Ts^ess^s&srs^ic^^^^^^^iJs^ £W5«£3L:

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

179

shore, we hove to, and sounded in four hundred and fifty Sept. 1.

fathoms, and the clamms brought up some stones and gravel, at' 73 37 '

' & r e> > Long- 7?o a5/ w_

and two small shrimps. Var. no°oo'W.

At six the boats returned with many specimens of the
animal, vegetable, and mineral kingdoms. A white bear had
been seen, and wounded, but escaped by swimming to an
iceberg. The skeleton of a whale was found about five
hundred yards above high-water mark, and two small pieces
of wood were found at a still greater distance from the sea.
No traces of any inhabitants were seen, and the circumstance
of the bones of the whale being entire, seems to strengthen the
supposition that this part of the country was not, nor had
been, inhabited for a great length of time. The deer, fox,
ermine, and white hare, were either seen, or proved to be in
abundance, and specimens of the two latter were brought on
board. Lieutenant Parry sent some valuable specimens, and
the officers of both ships were equally active and zealous. It
appeared from the reports of all the officers, that they landed
on a shingle beach, at the mouth of a small river, which was
described to be one hundred feet wide, and the water two feet
deep : the bed was twelve feet deep, and several pieces of birch
bark were found in it; and, at a little distance from these,
another smaller river was discovered. The valleys from which
these proceed, were found to be covered with verdure and wild
flowers, the mountains on each side were immensely high, and
covered with snow. On the S.E. side of the valley there was
a small plain, which was also covered with verdure, and the

2 a 2

It:

•

lit

180

A VOYAGE Or DISCOVERY

1 I

1 1 Ik

Sept. i. scenery, altogether, was much more pleasing than any that had
' ' been seen during; the voyage. The rise and fall of tide was

Long. 770 25 W. ° J °

Var. 1 io° 00' w. represented to be by some five, by others four, feet, but the
stream was not perceptible ; the water was deep close to the
shore, and there was no anchoring ground found. The variation

It * HI

A Copy of the original Meteorological Logs of His Majesty's Ships the Isabella

ISABELLA.

3
0

Tempera-
ture.

Soundings.

Height of the

£
s

Winds

Compass.

REMARKS.

Officer's
Signature.

Air.

c
1

Depth.

Nature.

Sympei
sorneter

4
6
8
10
12
2

6
8
10
12
2
4

8
10

2
4
6
8

10
12

35£

35£
35

34|

35
35
36

36|

35i

35
35

34|

35
35
35

29.72
29.86
29.79
29.78

29.63
26.29
29.58

29.72 54

8.10

8.30
8.10

7.51

7.30
8.25
8.11

North.

A. M. S.
J.C.R.
W. R.

A.M. S.

J. C R.

W. R.

A. M.S.

J.C. R.
W. R.
A.M. S.

J. C. R.

W. R.

A. M. S.
J. C. R.

29.78
29.90

29.88

29.86
29.88
29.66

70
64

58
56
62

120fms-n

0 ground

N.N.W.

West

S.W.
South

E. by S.
S.b.E.iE
W.S.W.

S Var. 115° 33' W.
\ Per Amp. Hd. No.

674

soft mud

Leeway 3 Pts

650

Mud and
worms

29.57

29.55

29-60
29.61
29.65

29.80

29.66

29.81
29.81
29.84

56
56
56

8.35

9.06

8.30
8.10
7.50

7
7

No gron
fath

nd at 70
oms.

North

Signal Preparative
3. 8. K. Calm.

lOOOfins.

Mud

The above tables have been examined,

j££

^T-irf'i

. \«::TS^S35£5£«£K£^^

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

181

was observed to be 110° west, and the transit bearings of Cape Sept. 1.
Fanshawe, and the Point near Cape Byam Martin, which Lat- 73° 37 N"

/ Long. 77° 25' W.

were taken yesterday, taken to-day from the opposite bearing ; Var 110o 0o' w.
by which it was determined, that the variation where the ship
was at noon, on the 31st, was about 114° west.

and Alexander, between Noon

, 29 August, and Noon, September l? 1818.

ALEXANDER.

B
o
S3

Tempera-
ture.

Soundings.

Height of the

B
p

Winds,

Compass.

REMARKS.

Officers'
Signature.

Air.

1
o

Sympei-

soineter.

Jja
<

4
6
8
10
12
2

2
4

35|

341

34§

371

351

361

351

36
36
36
36
36
351

351

35§

35*

34j

34*

4.87

North

f Temperature at 235 fathoms
1 29° *.

W. P.H.
P. B.
J.N.

W. P. H.
P.B.

J. N.

P.B.

J.N.
W. H. H.

P.B.

J. N.

W. P. H.

P. B.

29.76

N. by E.

N.
N.N.W.
W.N.W.

Moderate Breezes. . . .

29 80

Fine
fModerate and hazy, with

29.71

W. by S.

S.S.E.
S.E.

S.S.W.

South.

Cloudy

Hazy and small rain.

("1125 specific gravity, Hazy,

29.51

4.20

29.58

29.59

Cloudy

N.E.

Moderate and Cloudy

29.53

29.63 .

55£

5.20

("Temperature of the water
< at two hundred and fifty
*- fathoms 29-£°.

and found correct, by me,

T. HURD, Hydrographer.

182

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

■ lift

* ''•;

Sept. i. The boats being hoisted up, and the breeze freshening, we made

Ta' „ 0nh, ' sail, and stood to the N.E., having given the names of Posses-
Long. 77 25 W. ' ' & &

Var. no0 oo' w. sion Bay and Possession Mount to the above-mentioned places.
As I have given a particular chart of the bay or inlet which
was explored between the 29th of August and the 1st of Septem-
ber, by the Expedition under my command, and as there will be
found on the preceding pages copies of the meteorological logs
of the two ships, which were supplied and corrected by the Hy-
drographer of the Admiralty, from the official documents which
were lodged in his office, on the arrival of the ships, it must
be unnecessary for me to recapitulate the facts which I have
already stated, as by referring to these authenticated documents,
they will be seen by inspection. But it may not be amiss to
point out the parts in my official Instructions which are printed
in the beginning of this work, wherein I am directed to pay
particular attention to the currents, and to be guided by them ;
and also to the part which recommends me to look for the
north-east point of America ; or, in other words, the north-west
passage, about the seventy-second degree of latitude. As it was
fully proved that no current existed in this inlet which we had
just explored, or to the northward of it, it naturally followed
that I should have supposed myself still to the northward of
the current, which had been so confidently asserted to exist;
and that, therefore, this inlet was not the place to persevere in
forcing a passage, but that there was reason to expect it
would be found further south. My orders " to stand well to the
" north/' had already been fully obeyed, and no current had

f'^t-^^^rr^^.^.*^^'^**^

. m&Q$KG^^K^il<?^T;V^*&J&& sosssss

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

183

been found ; and if " a current of some force" did exist, as Sept. 1.

T at 73° 37' N

from the " best authorities" we had reason to believe was the ' _,00,,W"

Long. 77 25 W.

fact, it could be no where but to the southward of this latitude. Var. no'oo' w.

As, in my Instructions, I am also directed " to leave the ice

" about the loth or 20th of September, or at latest the 1st of

" October/' I had only one month left for my operations, in

which month the nights are long, and, according to a fair

calculation, not more than two days clear weather out of seven

could be expected. It may, therefore, with propriety be stated,

that I had only eight days remaining to explore the remainder

of Baffin's Bay, a distance of above four hundred miles. Of

this space, nearly two hundred miles had never been examined ;

a range, including the supposed place of the discontinuity of

the continent, and that to which my attention had been

particularly called, and where the imaginary current, which was

to be my guide, was to be expected. It is, perhaps, unnecessary

to add, that under these circumstances I was anxious to proceed

to the spot where it must be evident I had the best chance of

success. Yet my anxiety, on the other hand, to leave no part

of the coast unexplored, even after all hopes of a passage were

given up, determined me to persevere as I did, notwithstanding

there was no current, a material decrease in the temperature

of the sea, and no driftwood, or other indication of a passage,

until I actually saw the barrier of high mountains, and the

continuity of ice, which put the question at rest. That I did

so persevere, became afterwards a source of great satisfaction,

as I was fortunate enough to suceeed also in exploring every

g*~3-** — -— ^-

IM J»i

184

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

III

■ llfifr

Sept. i. part of the coast to the southward, to which my attention was

Lat. 73° 37 N. , j. , , , T , ,

Lon*. 77°25'\v. directed, and where I was led to expect that the current

Var. 100° oo w. was to be found. This was a much more essential part of my
duty than the making of magnetical observations, which was
the only inducement still remaining to linger in that dangerous
bay, where much time might have been wasted in attempting
to land, perhaps, without success, or, at any rate, without
obtaining any adequate results. My opinions were mentioned
to several of the officers, after I had determined to proceed to
the southward ; and also to Captain Sabine, who repeated, on
every occasion, that there was no indication of a passage.
Lieutenant Parry's ship, the Alexander, being nearly hull down
astern at the time I drew the land, and the ice at the bottom
of the bay, it was scarcely possible it could be seen from that
ship ; for, at that moment, she was very indistinctly seen from
the Isabella. I, therefore, did not think it worth while detaining
the ships for Lieutenant Parry's Report ; but it afterwards
appeared that the officer of the watch in the Alexander had
seen the land at the bottom of the bay. It was also reported
to me that the Alexander's deviation had changed in such a
manner as to make her bearings of the land of no value for the
remainder of the voyage, as will appear by the subjoined
official letter*.

SIR,

* His Majesty's Ship Alexander, at Sea,
September 1st, 1818.

I have the honour to state to you, that the officers who have
charge of the respective watches, on board the Alexander, having on the 27th and

>-<r^>'

SPsCWfeSU^OrW.

>^^r.t->:

■ i^lS!&SS&&S^S^^t^^^^^^JS^St^t!S^%^i

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

185

Having determined to quit this inlet, and proceed to the Sept. i.

, i i • x-Lat. 73° 37' N.

southward, it was my intention to have anchored in some ot LoQg ??a g5, w

the bays which appeared to open out to the south of CapeVar. no°oo'W.

Byam Martin, in order to determine the dip of the magnetic

needle, which I regretted had not been observed at Possession

Bay. Unfortunately the wind freshened, and a thick fog coming

on, we were obliged to stand out to gain the middle of the

inlet which we had just explored.

28th ult., reported to me that they had remarked a very perceptible inaccuracy in
the compasses, by the ship's lying repeatedly within eight and a half, eight, and
even seven points, on both tacks, I took particular notice, on several occasions, of
the direction of her head, by the compasses, before and after tacking, and found
their report to have been accurate. I select the following instances :

Aug. 27.-8 30 A. M On larboard tack, W. by S. *| lQ points>

starboard S.S.E. J

5 30 P. M On larboard tack, W.N.W. j ? points_

starboard S.W. byS. J

about 9 P- M On starboard tack, S.W. 1 g points_

larboard N.W. J

Aug. 28.-3 A. M On starboard tack, S.S. W. "I 8 points.

larboard W.N.W. J much swell.

6 30P.M On larboard tack, N.W.byW.iW.j 8| points_

starboard S.S.W. J

By referring to the diagram of the experiments made on board the Alexander,
under your direction, on the 27th July, it appears that the deviation then found, on
any of the above courses, is totally inadequate to account for such a difference, the
amount being now almost as many points in some instances as it then was degrees.

This deviation has become less perceptible since the 28th and 29th, though it is
still frequently found to be much greater than on the coast of Greenland.

I have the honour to be,
SIR,
Your most obedient humble Servant,
To Captain John Ross, fa. Ac. fa. W. PARRY, Lieut, and Commander.

H. M. Ship Isabella, at Sea.

2 B

■I

.;,,;'

186

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

Sept. 2.
■ Lat. 73° 32' N.
Long. 76° 00' W.

Early in the morning of the 2d of September, we stood in
shore, expecting it would clear, but it continued thick, and
came on to blow so fresh as to oblige us to take two reefs in
the topsails. The swell from the S.E. also increased consi-
derably, and we found the ships, with every sail that could be
carried, scarce held their own against the wind. They both
sailed so badly, that when there was the least pitching motion,
they did riot go above two knots an hour, nor could they be
depended on for staying even under all sail. A lee shore was
therefore to be avoided as much as possible, and it was thus
totally out of my power to obtain a perfect geographical
survey of the coast ; which was, however, of the less importance
from its not being the main object of the expedition. Nothing
of consequence happened during these twenty-four hours, nor
was there any observation made worthy of remark, except that
we found the deviation to be without any alteration since our
former trials. Two whales, with very high back fins, were
seen about this time, and Mr. Lewis the master said that this
species was seldom seen in Davis' Strait; seals were seen in
abundance, and some ducks, but none were taken.

September 3. The weather continued thick, but at five o'clock
in the morning there was a clear for a short time in the N.N.E.
direction, and the officer of the watch reported, that he saw
the land*, but before I got upon deck it was obscured. We
had here a good opportunity of observing the effect of humidity

* This land must have been by its bearings Cape Clarence, and was distant one
hundred and twenty miles.

f:!

^^^S35SK"«K®E^P^^

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

187

on the deviation, and it was found to correspond with the Sept. 3,

r ■ x Lai 73°45'N.

former observations. After standing for some time to the Long —0 1Q, w

E.N.E., we wore and stood to the southward, but the wind Var. 1050 51' w.

still increasing, the top-gallant yards and royal masts were

struck, the swell which came from the S.E. was the highest we

had yet seen, and as the ships were now unable to hold their

own, it was fortunate we had a good, offing. In the afternoon

the wind began to abate, and at four it cleared : the weather

became gradually moderate, and at seven it fell calm. We

had good azimuths at the prime vertical, and found that the

variation had decreased a little : there was too much swell to

obtain soundings in deeper Avater than one hundred and fifty

fathoms, and we found no bottom with that length of line.

At sun-set, 8 P. M., the land was seen from W. by S. to S.S.W. ;

and we found ourselves still off Lancaster Bay, both the

barometer and sympeisometer fell very low, which was the

first time they had deceived us, but the barometer fell most in

proportion. As soon as the ships would steer, they were kept

for the southernmost land in sight : numbers of birds of the

guillemot kind were seen flying to the southward.

Sept. 4. The weather continuing moderate, and the wind
still to the eastward, we made for the most southern point we
had seen yesterday, and in the morning we passed the two
inlets to the southward of Cape JByam Martin, which had the
appearance of harbours ; but, on a nearer approach, we dis-
covered them to be filled with large glaciers of ice, and quite
impenetrable. A cape, which appeared to the southward of

2 b 2

: < I I

■*■■

*~~*i *—*- ■!> *'

Irt ■

188

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

, ■

til*

Sept. 3. these inlets, was named Cape Bathurst, and the bay between it
Loner. 74° ij)' w anc* ^aPe %am Martin, was named Bathurst Bay. At ten
Var. io6° 5i' w. the sun appeared, and, in a short time, it became quite clear, so
that we distinctly saw the land extending to the southward as
far as S.S.E., the coast running north and south for about
fifteen leagues, and then trending to the south-eastward. It
appeared to be an uninterrupted continuation of the chain of
mountains which has been before described as surroundino-

the coast from Cape Clarence ; the farthest extremity, which
was very distinct, was about thirty leagues distant, bearing
about S.S.E. Being disappointed in finding a harbour, into
which we might enter, and determine the magnetic force and
dip, and being anxious to obtain it, I sent Captain Sabine
and Mr. Bushnan to a very large iceberg which was near us,
but they did not succeed in getting on it. A thick fog comino-
on, guns and muskets were fired to shew them our position ;
but, at six, they returned, and reported that this iceberg had
motion, and, consequently, the observations could not be
made ; and as the wind returned to the south-east, I was
obliged to stand off shore. By several bearings off Cape
Byam Martin and Cape Bathurst, the deviation was again
determined to be without alteration in the Isabella, and good
observations were obtained for both latitude, longitude, and
variation, which will be found on the margin. During this,
evening we kept company with the Alexander by musketry. At
ten P.M., a light breeze sprung up for the N.E., and I steered
S.E. under all sail, taking the usual precautions, and heaving

:fr-r-rv>-Trv>Y^"- r^-riv r ^w. « v

■■

fl2®SMK«Ks®£»»^M^?^^ S4K9&31

TO TOE AllCTTC REGIONS.

189

to for the purpose of sounding, when sufficiently a-head of Sept. 3.
the Alexander ; but the swell was so great that we could not Lat" 73 4o N'

& Long. 7^° 10' W.

sound in deeper water than five hundred and fifty fathoms, Var. io5D 51' w.

where no bottom was found. A new main-sail was bent, and

other preparations made against the gales which might be

expected this month. When the wind came fair this evening,

we had the utmost difficulty in shaping our course, as it was a

thick fog, and the ship having considerable motion, the

compasses all ceased to act. As there was no object in sight

by which the helms-man could be directed, we had recourse to

firing guns to the Alexander. By the sound of her guns, in

answer, it was found the wind was to the N.E., and it was

brought on the larboard-beam accordingly. Alexander of

Leith, and Crow of Gravesend's compasses were found to be

the first that began to act, when the motion and the humidity

became less. At midnight the weather cleared up, and we saw

the Alexander, and were enabled easily to continue our course,

which we did under all sail.

i, 1 1 1 1

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

CHAPTER XI.

continue our progress to the southward, exploring the west
coast of Baffin's bay — cape graham moore — pond's bay —

coutt's inlet discovered land trends to the eastward

north galloway and north ayr discovered, and names

given to various places land on an island near cape

eglinton, which is named agnes monument coast trends

to the southward continue exploring it, and reach cape

walsingham.

Sept. 5. VV E continued to make a south-east by south course,
Lat. 72° 371' N- in which direction I had seen the southern extremity of the
land before the fog came on, which, however, had now com-
pletely cleared away. At day-light we found ourselves about
six leagues from Cape Bathurst, and, at four, we hauled in to
take a better view of the coast, and came within a few miles of
a high cape, which was named after Sir Graham Moore. To
the southward of this we opened out a wide inlet, which had,
at first, the appearance of a strait, but it was soon discovered
to be occupied by a large glacier, which extended a consider-
able distance into the sea ; to this I gave the name of Pond's
Bay, in compliment to the Astronomer Royal. To the south-
ward of this we passed two capes, which were named Cape
Bowen and Cape M'Culloch ; we were abreast of the latter at

' -"-■ •--'■< ■— ^c-y

•

j^TS&BS&SEWSiS^&S^P^

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

191

noon, and found it to be, by its bearings, in latitude 72° 15' N., Sept. 5.

Lat 72° 37-' N.

and longitude 74° 17' W. ; a small bay between them was Lon 74oJ3I'W'

filled with ice. We continued to run down the coast until we were

abreast of a very remarkable inlet, when we were becalmed.

To this bay, which was also discovered to be surrounded by land,

and occupied by ice, I gave the name of Coutts' Inlet ; and to

the capes which formed its entrance, that of Coutts' to the

north, and Antrobus to the south : a view of this part of

the coast was taken by Mr. Bushnan, and is given in a plate.

The mountains in the interior were more completely covered

with snow than those about Cape Cobourg ; but the faces of

those near the coast were clear of snow, as were also some low

projecting points of land.

At sun-set, the land, forming a continuation of the same
chain of mountains which have been described in the last
Chapter, was seen distinctly as far as S.E., extending to the
distance of thirty leagues, the line of coast taking gradually
a more easterly direction. Several very large icebergs were
here seen, which had no doubt been generated under some of
the precipices on this part of the coast, and were floating about
in every direction. During this day we had run down above
seventy miles of the coast, and I was completely satisfied there
could be no passage any where between lat. 73° 33' and 72°.
As we had run a great distance from the Alexander, we hove
to, that she might have an opportunity of joining us, and in
the mean time we sounded in one hundred and twenty fathoms,
and found sandy mud. On the Alexander joining, we learnt

>u 1

■

mrrrrtt

uiP

192

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

Sept. 6. that the observations made on board the two ships agreed, and

72° 23 "
Long. 73° 07

l3'J*' that neither of us had observed that any part of this coast was

inhabited. Two whales were seen off the entrance of Coutts'
Inlet, but no birds, except our constant attendants the Fulmar
peterels. In the evening the wind fell, and we pursued our
course under an easy sail.

Sept. 6. Very soon after midnight it fell calm, and after
day-light there were some light and variable airs of wind. At
eight it again fell calm, and continued so the whole day. The
ship's head had, however, generally been kept near the course,
by the assistance of the swell, which was from the north ; and we
made fourteen miles of southing, and a degree of easting,
although the log only gave half as much. We had good obser-
vations in the forenoon for the longitude, and for the latitude
by the sun's meridian altitude, but the afternoon was cloudy.
At six, it being quite calm, and the water smooth, we sounded
with the deep sea clamms, and found one thousand and fifty
fathoms, which were the deepest soundings we ever reached in
Baffin's Bay. As we had only one hundred and twenty fathoms
fifteen miles further north, it is evident, the bottom of the sea,
like the land, must here be very mountainous. The mud at
the bottom was so extremely soft, that the instrument sunk
completely into it, and considerable force was required to draw it
out. The sea being a dead calm, the line became perfectly
perpendicular, and we had a good opportunity of obtaining
the exact depth before it started out of the ground. The
instrument came up completely full, containing about six

•/. WaUca' Sculp?

It'll

It:

Ills

w H |

iU I.

ikl

: tf»-f i ;

><*^r>rv<*~<ar ^w^- ■ >••***« >-**t^x ***** »•»

. *<®8*5HSSN25R<S.*- &&G4B2KttMM&'&B&&&

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

193

pounds of mud, mixed with a few stones and some sand. Sept. 6.
Although this mud was of a substance to appearance much Lat' 7~ 23 N'

■ ^^ Long. 73° 074' W.

coarser than that which we had before obtained, it was also of
a much looser nature, and had in it no insects or organic
remains ; but a small star-fish was found attached to the line
below the point marking eight hundred fathoms. The instru-
ment took twenty-seven minutes to descend the whole distance.
When at five hundred fathoms, it descended at the rate of one
fathom per second, and when near one thousand fathoms down,
it took one second and a half per fathom. Although the check
the instrument made to the motion of the line when it struck
the bottom was evident to all, I wished to put the fact beyond
doubt; and for this purpose, I set the instrument so nicely
that the least resistance at the bottom would make it act, and
having attached the self-registering thermometer to it, I let it
down first to five hundred fathoms, and in the same manner to
six hundred, seven hundred, eight hundred, and a thousand,
in succession. At each time it came up empty, and the
thermometer each time shewed a lower temperature, proving
clearly that the water was colder as it became deeper, and
also indicating that the instrument had not reached the bottom,
even as far as the depth of one thousand and five fathoms.
It occupied one hour for all hands to pull it up from th,at
depth, and an account of the temperature of the sea will be
found in the Appendix. This eveniug land was distinctly
seen bearing S.E., and a yellow sky appeared two points
further eastward. To the land abreast of us, which had never

2 c

1 n

■ ■' ■ i

II!

)}

III!

•';;

■

Is it- 'If

I II lit

RP'fe

194

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

^pt. 7. been seen by any former navigators, I gave the name of North

Lat. 72° l6i' N.

Long. 710 46|' w. Galloway, and to the bays and capes various names, which will
be found in the chart. This land was very high, and of the
same description and appearance as that which we passed
yesterday. Every creek was completely filled with ice, and
the land was certainly continuous. There were no appearances
of its being inhabited, no current was found, nor could any
tide be perceived.

Sept. 7. During the night the swell subsided, and the calm
continued until seven this morning, when a shower of snow
brought with it a breeze which lasted an hour and a half.
This wind was variable, but we were able to continue our course
along the land, which took a south-east direction. We sounded
with a heavy lead, of one hundred pounds weight, and found
one thousand and fifteen fathoms. It reached the bottom in
21' 2", and was hauled up in forty-eight minutes. The lead,
which was observed distinctly to strike the bottom, appeared,
when it came up, to have been, like the clamms, sunk more
than its own depth in the mud. After this experiment, the
clamms were sent down, with a self-registering thermometer
attached to it, to one thousand and five fathoms, and the
temperature of the sea at that depth was ascertained to be
twenty-eight and a half: the instrument, coming up without any
thing in it, proved that it had not been at the bottom. The
furthest land distinctly seen to be continuous with that abreast
of us, was named Cape Adair, which is in latitude 71° 24' N.,
and longitude 70° W. This part of the coast, which is also

k^fe-y ^^4rv-^gHT->^^-- ■*"**** v^' >-

7^.' • ,^2*BRJM^5KM^^P*£®^*

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

195

very high, forms a curve, and within it are two small islands. Sept. 7-

T at 7 "2.° l6-' N.

To one of these I gave the name of Bell Isle, and to the other

Marianne Isle. A great number of icebergs and glaciers were
here seen, and every inlet was filled with them. Immediately
after we had finished our experiments, a breeze sprung up from
the S.E., and we stood in shore under all sail, continuing to
beat along it at the distance of from four to six leagues. On
tacking, the deviation was observed to be four points, that is,
two points nearly on each side, which was the same as before
observed ; for the wind being S.S.W., the ship lay on one tack
W.N.W., and on the other E.S.E. ; on the former tack, the
wind appearing to be S.W., and upon the latter tack to be
south. At four P. M., the breeze freshened very considerably,
and the weather became thick, in consequence of which the
rigging was soon covered with ice. At six, the royal masts
were struck, and at eight the top-gallant \7ards were sent down,
and the topsails double reefed. It was evident the ships did
not hold their own, and it was necessary to get a better offing,
especially as the wind shifted more to the eastward. Towards
midnight, the swell from the S.E. had got up considerably, —
the ships made a great deal of drift, owing to the want of gripe
and forefoot. The wind was now south by compass, and, in
consequence of the deviation, the ships appeared on one tack to
lie east, and on the other west. Having got an offing of seven
leagues, we stood off and on, so as to keep about that distance,
until the weather moderated and cleared.

Sept. 8. The weather moderated this morning, and we

2 c 2

Long. 71°46l'W.

,;! v

■ ! i

.■'/•" ^-

196

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

1
■1

■ ::

:*;s •

Lat.

Long

Sept. 8.
72° 16" N.
71° 00' W.

began again to get to the S.E., but it was thick until noon,

when it cleared sufficiently to allow of a tolerable observation

being obtained. We then altered our course, so as to close

the land, and made all sail. At sun-set we saw the coast

between Cargenholm and Hamilton's Bay; and having then

out-run the Alexander seven miles, we shortened sail, and she

joined us about T 30m. I received Lieutenant Parry's reports,

and found that her deviation had been, in one instance, five

points ; for this he did not assign any cause, but as I learned

that some iron casks had been removed, which had previously

been secured on the quarter-deck, it is probable that this

was the cause of the difference. The rest of Lieutenant Parry's

reports were very satisfactory; his observation by chronometer

and latitudes, and meteorological journal, agreeing with ours.

Our stock of vegetables being expended, I gave orders for

serving a certain proportion of preserved meat and soup, in lieu

of a part of the salt provision, in order to prevent scurvy.

Sept. 9- During the night the wind had shifted to the north,
and the course was shaped for Cape Adair, which had been
seen last night; but the day continuing snowy and thick, it
was necessary to give that point a good birth. I, therefore, ran
on a parallel with it until I was sure I had passed it about
three leagues, and then hauled our wind direct for the shore,
taking the usual precautions of sounding and looking out,
which have been already described. We saw several streams
of ice, and, at four P.M., the land was discovered, appearing,
at first, like islands ; but they afterwards proved to be part of

:W»v4f-V-v^V--KI.

■ i i i

*,^2^BESFS^'5E*^J£«^

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

197

the main land, and to form the N.E. point of this coast. This s<?pt- 9-

Lat. 71° 22 3-' N.

land bore S.W., and Cape Adair was seen soon after bearinffN.W,

r 6 Long. 68° 26' W.

Theland between them soon appeared, and when discovered to be
continuous, we bore up for the Cape which was first seen, and
which I named Cape Eglinton, in compliment to the noble
Earl ; and the bay to the northward of it was called Scott's
Bay. Having arrived within six miles of Cape Eglinton, we
sounded in forty-nine fathoms, and discovered that the land
trended towards the south. As this country was also a new
discovery, I named it North Ayr ; a low point, which was seen,
and supposed to be an island, to the north of the Cape, was
called Horse Island, from its resemblance to the island of that
name off Ardrossan ; and a bay, which had the appearance
of a good anchorage, was called Ardrossan Bay, from its
resemblance to that harbour on the coast of Ayrshire. I
intended to put into this bay for the purpose of making
observations, and accordingly stood off and on, at the distance
of four miles, having from thirty-eight to one hundred fathoms,
until day -light ; but unfortunately the ships had drifted too
far to leeward, having been obliged several times to bear up
in order to avoid ice, and in the morning we could not fetch
within three miles of the point. This part of the coast assumed
a different character from that to the north; the mountains
being more detached, of a rounder shape at the tops, and less
covered with snow ; but in the interior they were equally high,
and had the same appearance,

Sept. 10. The weather appearing fine, we bore up along the

'!ff
i H

HIT.

Sept. 10.
Lat. 70° 40' N.
Long. 68° 00' W.

A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY

land, at the distance of three miles from it, and rounded a low
point, from which a reef appeared to extend about a league
into the sea. This point had no snow on it, and the mountains
behind it appeared to have been only recently covered. A
small island was discovered to the southward, and a boat was
sent with a party to take possession of it in the usual form.
They found some difficulty in landing, but at last effected it on
the south side ; and having examined it, they set up a flag-
staff, left a bottle with an account of their proceedings, and
returned. They found that this island had been recently
inhabited; the remains of a temporary habitation, a fire-place,
a broken stone vessel, a part of a human skull, some bones of
a seal, some wood partly burnt, and a part of a sledge, were
brought on board. The tracks of dogs were also seen, and
some stones were found set up in a particular manner.

This island, which was named Agnes Monument, is nearly
circular, is about forty feet above the level of the sea, and
is flat at the top, being rather highest towards the N.W. ;
it is bold all round, except at a short distance from the
N.W. and S.E. sides ; and the tide was observed, at ten
o'clock, when it was high water, to be setting to the south-
ward, at about one mile per hour. This island was in the
mouth of a deep inlet, into which I determined to proceed
for the purpose of anchoring and making observations;
but at four P.M. a dangerous reef was discovered stretching
across its entrance, and 1 was obliged to haul off. When
the boat was absent, two large bears swam off to the ships

> ».--■■■ .> .'-:;• ■■N^,-y

8w2SS3MN£®£«**sy^ smxrji. 53

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

199

which were at the distance of six miles from the land ; they Sept. 10.
fetched the Alexander, and were immediately attacked by Lat' 7°°40 N'

J J Long. 68° 00' W.

the boats of that ship, and killed ; one which was shot through
the head, unfortunately sunk ; the other, when he was wounded,
attacked the boats, and shewed considerable play, but was
at length secured, and towed to the Isabella by the boats
of both ships. In this affair, Mr. Bisson, Mr. Nius, midship-
men, and Mr. Fisher, assistant-surgeon of the Alexander,
shewed much dexterity and address. This animal, which is
fully described in the Appendix, weighed one thousand one
hundred and thirty-one pounds and a half, besides the blood
it had lost, which cannot be estimated at less than thirty
pounds ; his dimensions were carefully taken, and Mr. Beverly
undertook to preserve his skin, in which he perfectly suc-
ceeded, the bones of the head and feet not having been
removed but preserved in their places ; he was sent to the
British Museum in excellent order. In the evening we stood
to the eastward, to get out of the influence of the tide which
changed about six, and set to the northward, at the rate
of one mile an hour. This inlet is bounded by high moun-
tains, those in the interior only being covered with snow; it
appears to be the mouth of a small river, and was named
Clyde River, and the island to the north was named Haig's
Island, and that to the south was named Bute Island, in
compliment to the noble Marquis. The icebergs which
were seen this day had much the appearance of low islands,
and there was much loose ice about them, the whole appearing

■ 1. 1 1 1 -I

JTri-fcii^l

^ii^-aTY" fty- -f—rrma

200

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

Sept. 11. to have lately been separated from the land. Some large
Lat. 70 34| . «. wna|es were seen in the morning running* towards the

Long. 67° 46i' W. o S

Van 75° 00' W. SOUth.

Sept. 11. The wind was against us, but the weather
being moderate during the night we carried all sail, stood off
until two A.M., then in shore. At day-light we saw the land,
and the weather was very clear ; we plainly distinguished the
land to the north of Cape Adair, at the distance of twenty
leagues, and recognised it to be the same we had seen on the
5th instant. The land, bearing S. by E., was also seen at the
same distance ; and, about S. by W., a very remarkable
mountain, resembling a pyramid of great height, appeared,
detached from the rest, which formed a continuous ridge. The
whole of this part of the coast is lower near the sea than it
was to the northward, the chain of mountains being inland, at a
distance of fifteen or twenty miles. Between these moun-
tains deep valleys were seen, which were probably the channels
of small rivers that fall into the bays and inlets which are every
where to be found on this coast.

At eight o'clock this morning we were seven leagues to the
eastward of the rock, or island, we named Agnes Monument ;
and two miles to the eastward of us we discovered the largest
iceberg we had ever seen at such a distance from the land. As
it was nearly calm I thought it a good opportunity to obtain its

* x\ term used when whales are swimming with great velocity on a particular
direction.

,-,.-^^^.- ■*>**** >-*.^:.>j>.^.<: ...-:.4.-V"

9GSa&^W^&'&$^^s&s%&£ $m2r&%+£

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

201

size by actual measurement: and for this purpose I sent Sept. m.
Lieutenant Parry, Mr. Ross, and Mr. Bushnan, and, at the Lat 70°34"'N-

J ' ' _ ' ' Long. 67° 401' W-

same time, a party, with the necessary instruments, to obtain, Var. 750 00' w.
by landing on it, the magnetic dip and variation ; and, in the
mean time, we stood towards it with a very light air. The
party had some difficulty in finding a place to land. In rowing
round it they found it perpendicular in every place but one,
where there was a small creek, and in which a convenient
landing-place was discovered. When they had ascended to the
top, which was perfectly flat, they were received by a white
bear, who was in quiet possession of this mass. As some of
their fire-arms had got wet, it was some time before dispositions
could be made for an attack ; during which the animal seemed
to wait with patience for an assault, but as soon as they had
formed their line, and began to advance, he seemed to be
conscious of their superiority, and made for the other side of
the island. Our party had not calculated on any other wa}r to
escape but the landing-place before mentioned, which they left
well guarded ; but to their mortification, as well as astonish-
ment, when the animal came to the edge of the precipice,
fifty feet high, he plunged into the sea without hesitation, and,
there being no boat on that side of the island, he escaped.
The party remained until sun-set, had good observations ; and
Lieutenant Parry reported to me, that the iceberg was four
thousand one hundred and sixty-nine yards long, three thou-
sand eight hundred and sixty-nine yards broad, and fifty-one
feet high, aground in sixty-one fathoms ; and that it had nine

2 D

in ■:

',* *r

r-1

• 1

■ J

Sept. 12.
Lat. 70° 42' N.
Long. 64° 37' W.

202

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

uhequal sides. Its appearance was much like that of the back
of the Isle of Wight, and its cliffs exactly resembled the chalk
cliff's to the west of Dover. In the evening the breeze which
had sprung up from the southward freshened, and as soon as
the boats returned, we passed under the lee of the iceberg, and
stood off shore. We found our observations on board to agree
with those made on the berg, and we found the latitude pretty
exact, by Cole's method, and, soon after dark, by the pole
star. Lieutenant Parry reported another change on the
Alexander's deviation.

Sept. 12. The weather being clear, and the wind in such a
direction that no progress to the south could be made, I
resolved to stand across to the eastward, in order to determine if
there was any land or not, between the west and east sides of this
part of Davis' Strait. All sail was accordingly made, and we
stood to the eastward. At day-light it was blowing fresh, and we
were obliged to reef the topsails and strike royal-masts.
At ten it came thick, and the Alexander being eight or nine
miles astern, we shortened sail. We saw a great deal of loose
ice, and passed through a stream of it, and many large
icebergs were seen. At ten it became thick, and the ropes
were covered with ice : we had, during the whole day, a heavy
fall of snow. At four P.M., we were about mid-channel, when
a bottle and a copper cylinder, each containing an account of
our proceedings, were thrown overboard. While we hove to
for the Alexander, I sounded in two hundred and ninety
fathoms, and had hard bottom : no current was perceived, and if

>T«WnUS^3V<KS>MMP9H^wJ<

^■"vrv "i

■, V' ' Jv:*; ■.-V^"

*SM&«MK«5»3L

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

203

there was any, we must have seen it, for we passed several Sept. is.
icebergs which lay aground. As we knew we should not be able Lat' !°„ 41, N*

° J & Long. 62° 24' W,

to fetch that part of the west coast which we had left, we
continued our course to the eastward ; and, in the evening, the
wind moderated, but the weather was still very thick.

Sept. 13. We stood on until day-light, when the wind
shifting to the S. E. made it necessary to tack. We were at
that moment one hundred and twenty miles to the eastward
of the coast we had left ; the weather became clear, and we
could certainly see ten leagues in that direction. It was
therefore fully ascertained, that no land existed in the channel
of Davis' Strait, about the latitude of 70° 40' ; for our track
from the opposite nearly meets the one from this side, and
consequently there is no such land as James's Island, which is
laid down in most of the charts. We now stood back to the
westward; and, in passing some loose ice, we saw a bear on
one piece, which we ascertained to be one hundred miles from
the land. We had good observations for both latitude and
longitude.

Sept. 14. During this night, which was extremely dark and
thick, the utmost caution was necessary to keep clear of the
ice. We had close-reefed top-sails, and the main-sail furled,
the royal masts and yards struck, and a very heavy sea. The
Alexander got much astern, and to leeward, probably by
being obliged frequently to bear up for ice. She was not in sight
at day-light ; we therefore wore, and bore up to look for her,
and, at five, discovered her to leeward. As soon as we joined

2 p 2

■'.

-—^- J --■——

,„J|i,iW

■ ;!;:§

,c;'

•

' ' 'i

■ !

i'JIHW! '■""'

i; "

Iff1

VMpWr

204

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

v -

Sept. 14.
Lat. 70° ip|' N
Long. 65° 30' W.

her, all sail was made, but the wind fell considerably, and
soon after came to the N.E. At noon, we had a good meridian
altitude; we sounded, and found five hundred and seventy
fathoms in soft greenish mud ; we had no observations for
longitude, but by reckoning we were sixty miles to the eastward
of the land we had left. The wind then increased, and we ran
a-head of the Alexander ; and, towards evening, made the
land. The weather then coming thick, we hove to for her,
and, after she joined, ran till eight ; when, by reckoning, we
were in latitude 70°, and thirty-six miles eastward of the land
we had seen on the 11th. We then hauled our wind to the
eastward under the topsails, it being too thick to run. During
the whole of this day we had much swell from the S.W., which,
however, abated considerably towards the evening. We saw
many icebergs and some loose ice.

Sept. 15. We maintained our position during the night, and
in the morning, the weather, though still cloudy and hazy, was
more favourable for closing the land than it was yesterday ;
and the wind, being from the north, with a commanding
breeze, was very advantageous, as it admitted of our hauling
off on the appearance of danger. The swell continued, but its
direction was rather more from the eastward. At seven, A. M.,
we discovered a cluster of islands, which we afterwards found to
be five in number, and that they were two leagues distant from
the main land. We supposed them to be the Salmon Islands,
as they answered the situation, as to latitude, in which islands
of that name are placed in some charts. We passed these at

i^S3S^^^^S^^-^^^j?>^^^J^€? £WS^g&

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

205

the distance of three leagues, and run along the land, which Sept. 15.
was low near the sea: the names of several capes and bays Ta" _0 ' . '

r J Long. 64° 42 W.

which we explored sufficiently to determine the continuity of
the coast, will be found in the chart. The mountains were not
so high, or so much covered with snow, as those forty miles
to the northward, and they were also at the distance of several
leagues from the sea. A low point was seen about noon,
bearing S. by W. ; and, from the end of it, a reef of icebergs
which appeared to be aground, denoted shoal water. This
was found to be a bank, having no more than eighteen fathoms
on it, extending to the eastward as far as could be discerned
from the mast-head; and we found the tide running across it
to the southward, at the rate of two miles and a half an hour.
This shoal, which I named Isabella Bank, must prevent the
possibility of ships passing to the northward along this coast,
untillate in the season ; for the icebergs, which are aground on
it, must support the floes which drift down from the north, and
by preventing them from being carried to sea by the wind and
tide, keep this part of the strait a long time impassable. Near
the north edge of this bank we found the water deep, and we
came suddenly into a rippling of the tide, in which we had
first thirty-five and then twenty fathoms. The water now
became smooth, and I was obliged to carry more sail than T
could have wished, in order to ensure that the ship should not
be carried foul of the icebergs between which we were forced
to pass. The anchors were prepared, the lead kept going, and
the ship's company stationed to act as might be necessary.

1 '■■■■ H

,<•

Sept. 15.
Lat. 69° 25' N.
Long. 64° 42' W.

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVEKY

For three miles we had from twenty-four to nineteen fathoms;
and were, when on the centre of it, at the distance of eight
miles from the point before mentioned, and which I now
named Cape Kater. The quality of the soundings was very
various; we had, successively, fine, coarse, grey, and red
sand and mud ; on the shoalest part we had stones, and on
the edges coral and shells. The south edge appeared to be
equally steep with the north, as from twenty-four fathoms we
fell suddenly into fifty, after which no bottom was found in
one hundred fathoms, and in two hours afterwards we hove to,
and sounded in four hundred and seventy fathoms, finding soft
mud. To the south of this we discovered a spacious bay, in
which was an island, to which I gave the name of Wollaston
Island ; this was surrounded with ice. We ran along the coast
until near dark, when we hove to for the Alexander, which was
at a considerable distance astern. At eight, we hauled to the
east, and stood off and on, it being too dark to run or examine
the coast. We observed that the tide changed at four o'clock,
and then ran to the southward; and, by the icebergs, the water
seemed to have fallen eight feet, (the moon was one day past
full). At half-past ten, we felMn with a stream of ice, to avoid
which, we were obliged to wear ship ; this carried us nearer
the land, and more into the influence of the tide than I could
have wished ; but it could not be avoided. At midnight, we
had showers of snow, and cloudy weather.

Sept. 16. At day-light we found we had been carried
by the tide considerably to the southward, and the wind

^mi^-i^c^^^ ^

:^>;v-r...

hSi

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

207

being N. by E. we made sail for the land, which we Sept. 16.
discovered at four o'clock, at the distance of three leagues, a* ' , '

' 6 ' Long, 64o 48. w

forming a number of capes and inlets ; at the same time we
found ourselves embayed in a stream of heavy ice, which, how-
ever, appeared so much broken, that a passage through it
seemed practicable, notwithstanding there was a considerable
swell. We, therefore, bore up and forced through it; but
we had no sooner reached the south side, when we discovered
that, at a short distance further it was impenetrable, and
that the land, extending far to the eastward, made it necessary
to haul our wind immediately, in order to extricate ourselves.
Although the greatest care was taken in cunning the ship
through the innumerable masses of ice which surrounded us,
a press of sail being absolutely necessary, the ship unavoidably
received many severe shocks, but met with no material damage.
The tide, which had been setting us rapidly to the southward,
changed at half-past ten, and had the effect of opening the ice
considerably, as well as of setting us to windward, and we
appeared to gain ground by the icebergs which were near us,
which we found were all aground on the edge of a shoal ;
on this we sounded in thirty-five fathoms, had no doubt but
the water was much shallower further to the southward, as we
observed field-ice fixed on it, and extending to the southward
as far as could be distinguished from the mast-head ; at the
same time the eastern extremity of this field was discovered at
the distance of twelve miles from us, and round it we
had to beat. We named this shoal, Alexander's Bank, and

•

*j|ij;.j

".*>

208

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

Sept. 17. the headlands within it, already mentioned, were named after

Long. Z> 00' w.' the officers of that shiP-

At three o'clock, when it was near the top of high water,

we weathered the field-ice and bore up in order to force a

passage through a stream which appeared to run between it

and a large floe to the eastward. We soon after passed very

near to a large iceberg, on which were a large bird, of the

falcon kind, and a bear ; the former immediately flew away,

but the latter, after looking at us for some time, climbed to

the top, apparently with the intention of jumping into the

sea from it, but, on finding it was too high, he descended,

and when at a short distance from the lower edge, he plunged

into the sea (see the engraving) ; several shots were fired at

him, but the distance was too great for the balls to take

effect, and he escaped.

At five o'clock we chose the place most easy to be forced

in the stream of ice above mentioned, and which was effected

in about an hour, when we again found ourselves in the open

sea. We ran along the edge of the land ice until sun-set, when

we shortened sail for the night. During the whole of this

day the Alexander was managed with much skill and ability;

she carried sail and kept up with the Isabella to admiration,

and it must be attributed to the exertions of her commander

and officers, that she was not necessitated to pass the night

among the broken ice, which, with the heavy swell we found

there, could not fail to have been attended with serious

consequences. We had a good opportunity of making observa-

•IWtf

■

* ^

II :

• ^fc^^SBSS^'SglS^iE^^Q^*

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

209

tions on the tides, which confirmed those we had made Sept. 17.
yesterday. We had no meridian altitude of the sun, but by Lat 6s 07* N-

J J J Long. (53° 00' W.

Mr. Cole's method, we found ourselves at three o'clock to be
in latitude 65° N. ; we had clear weather at sea, but the land
was obscured by fog in the evening.

Sept. 17. The night was clear, and we had several observa-
tions for latitude by the polar and other stars, and I had also
good lunar distances between the moon and Aldebaran, by
which the longitude was determined. At day-break we steered
for the land, and saw what bore south yesterday bear now due
west, having closed it to a sufficient distance for determining
its continuity. We bore up, and, running along it, dis-
covered that it took an easterly direction ; several names were
given to the different head-lands and bays which we passed,
none of which were free of ice or had the least appearance of
a passage. Bearing S.E. of us we discovered a promontory
which I named Cape Broughton ; this seemed to terminate the
land, but in the evening the yellow sky was seen, and another
Cape which was named Cape Searle, was discovered ; the bay
between them is called Merchant's Bay, and was full of ice.
The chain of mountains which was still uninterrupted, seemed
now to rise from the sea, and its direction was north and
south, the last named Cape being, however, a few miles to the
eastward. At the distance of eight leagues from the land,
we found one hundred and eighty fathoms ; several icebergs
but no loose ice remained on this part of the coast. At sun-

2 E

i l;tljp'

i'ftf

I aw

U;i

<i**

j^^ ^ »i»i^«^ t,^ a^

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

set we reefed the topsails and hauled our wind for the night,
having, as usual, joined the Alexander.

Sept. 18. The night proving fine, and the sky clear, we had
excellent observations for latitude and longitude. I found the
lunar observations to agree exactly with the means of the five
box chronometers. At two A.M, we tacked and stood for
the land, which, at day-light, was seen extending from N.W. to
S.S.E., and quite clear of fog; the mountains were very high
and irregular. A very remarkable rock, resembling a castle,
or tower, forms the point of a large bay, or inlet; this, we had
no doubt, was Dyer's Cape, and the inlet to the south was
Exeter Bay, discovered by the celebrated navigator Davis.
We had this day good observations for latitude, and distances of
the sun and moon for longitude. We explored the coast as far
as latitude 66° 50', when a Cape, which we supposed to be the
Cape Walsingham of Davis, was seen to the southward. At sun-
set wTe hove to, as usual, to sound, and give the Alexander an
opportunity of joining; and we found bottom at the great
depth of one thousand and seventy fathoms, and obtained a
quantity of very soft mud of a rusty colour. When the
Alexander came up, I made the signal for Lieutenant Parry to
return sealed orders, and I delivered to him other orders
instead of them, to be opened in case of parting company :
his observations and reports were found to agree with ours,
excepting about the bearings of the land, which difference
was no doubt, occasioned by the uncertainty of the deviation

'{^&^¥^23585Qfi£!Sft£S£&£S^

! M

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

211

of the magnetic needle in that ship. The wind, during this Sept. is.
day, was light and variable ; towards night it settled to the Lat 67° 27 N"

° Long. 6 1° 17' W.

northward, the weather also became cloudy, and no observations Var. 690 00' w.
were obtained.

During the whole of our progress, related in this chapter, a
bottle, or a copper cylinder, containing an account of our pro-
ceedings, was thrown over-board every day, as soon as the
ship's position had been determined.

<J e 2

; 1

' "

•4 U ,•

212

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

CHAPTER XII.

!)>

PROCEEDINGS OFF CAPE WALSINGHAM AND MOUNT RALEIGH EXPE-
RIMENTS ON THE TEMPERATURE OF THE WATER THE BREADTH OF

DAVIS' STRAIT, AND NON-EXISTENCE OF JAMEs's ISLAND DETER-
MINED PROGRESS TO THE SOUTHWARD SANDERSON'S TOWER

SEVERAL ISLANDS DISCOVERED — ARRIVE OFF CUMBERLAND STRAIT

DEPARTURE TAKEN FROM RESOLUTION ISLAND — ATTEMPT TO

MAKE CAPE FAREWELL — A DREADFUL STORM ARRIVE AT SHET-
LAND.

Sept. 19. Sept. 19- OAPE Walsingtiam was this morning seen to the

Lat. 66°5(u'N. gw at the distance of ten leagues; we stood towards the

Long. 60° 30' W. °

land with a light breeze, and discovered a high mountain,
which we took to be Mount Raleigh of Davis, but the tops of
the mountains, this day, were generally obscured with fog, and
the sun was only seen when near the meridian. Some birds were
observed, which it was, at first, thought were of a new species,
and a boat was sent to procure specimens, but they turned out
to be the little awk changing its colour, the feathers on the
back being partly grey ; specimens of them were preserved.
In the afternoon it fell quite calm, when we sounded in six
hundred and sixty-eight fathoms ; I thought it a good opportu-
nity to try the temperature of different depths by means of the
self-registering thermometer, and it was found to be as follows :

*9S

m >>^ht\t- *■ * %

PgTJiW/'li Jtu

« ^^'^SRS?«5i^^gl§>^^^'^^^^ ^.-^* ^ ^2iJ^5^ S6K2rias^«^

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

213

at six hundred and sixty fathoms, 25|° ; at four hundred, 28°; Sept. 20.

J Lat. 66° 44' N.

at two hundred, 29°; at one hundred, 30°. The bottom was Long 5Mo 2oW
mud of a yellowish rusty colour, and very soft. The tide,
whether from our increased distance from the land, or the state
of the moon's age, was considerably diminished in strength ;
and, when tried, its velocity was found to be scarce half a
mile an hour. In the evening the wind sprung up from the
southward, and we stood off shore, being unable to make any
progress against it.

Sept. 20. The night continued moderate, but cloudy, some-
times the aurora-borealis could be faintly distinguished ; the
wind being against us we still stood off shore, but towards
morning it shifted a little in our favour, and we again stood for
the land, and thereby gained a few miles southing. At noon
the Cape was seen to the S.W., at ten leagues' distance. The
sea was much smoother than it had been for some days, and
the breeze being steady, I determined to stand off shore for the
night, because it was the best tack for gaining ground upon,
and because we had a chance of making the east side of Davis'
Strait without losing time. Nothing remarkable took place,
and our observations tended to confirm those of yesterday.
After dark the breeze freshened, and the swell increased
proportionably.

Sept. 21. Towards morning the weather became clear and
fine, the sea was smooth, and we had a series of good observa-
tions ; viz., for the latitude by the polar star and meridian

'■H;!'l

H '111 ,

,4111

3 if
1 11

^'fi

H -

214

A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY

Sept. 21.
Lat. 66° 56'
Long. 56° 28'
Var. 66° 00'

N altitude of the moon ; for the longitude, distances of the moon
w. from Pollux; and, for time, the altitude of Capella. The
different observers agreed within a few seconds of each other,
and the means of all observations agreed with the chronometers.
At eleven, we had the further satisfaction of making the
land we had seen on the 7th of June, near Queen Anne's
Cape, on the east coast of Davis' Strait, which completely
proved our longitude was correct. At noon we sounded in
forty fathoms; a few miles further off shore than where we
had, on the 7th of June, sounded in thirty-five fathoms ; we
then tacked and stood to the westward. By this, and our
stretch across from Cape Eglinton, it was fully determined
that James's Island did not exist; and that the land, which
has been mistaken for it, is Cumberland of Davis, on which
we found Cape Walsingham and Mount Raleigh, exactly in
the latitude in which that navigator placed them, and differing
only in longitude, like all other places in this part of the
world. In the evening the breeze, which had gradually
increased, reduced us to close-reefed topsails. The royal masts
and top-gallant yards were struck, and the crow's-nest was
taken from the mast-head. We stood to the westward, but the
gale was driving us up the Strait ; and the Alexander, which
could not carry sail, got far to leeward, so that we were obliged
to bear up, and join her occasionally. Many large icebergs
were in sight, and it is worthy of remark, that the highest end
of these masses was generally to windward ; and we have

W-?

«■*■*■? i

.- « • -v

^VG^riZWr?^ v

,. - •■.

^^;^^^£35«5^

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

215

1 I I I

before observed, that they turned in this direction almost Sept. 22.
immediately as the wind happened to change. No observations a '^ 0 _'
were made this evening. Var. 67° 00' w.

Sept. 22, The gale continued the whole day, but neither
barometer nor sympeisometer foretold it, nor did either of
them fall after it came on. We supposed ourselves about noon
to be three-fourths across the Strait towards the west, when
we wore, and took up a situation for awaiting a change ; we
drove directly up the Strait, and besides had to bear up occa-
sionally for the Alexander, which was very leewardly.

Sept. 23. The weather continued very unfavourable the
whole of this morning, but the wind and sea were considerably
diminished after a very heavy fall of snow, which lasted until
three P.M., when it was succeeded by a very thick fog1 and
in half an hour afterwards it became suddenly clear. The
land, the sun, and the moon, were seen at the same moment,
and good observations were made. In the evening the latitude
was found by altitude of the polar star; and it is, perhaps,
worthy of remark, that we observed the meridian altitude of
the moon below the pole, exactly on the arctic circle, which
we crossed at forty-four minutes past seven P.M. ; the wind
having shifted to the north, we had a few hours good weather,
and at 4h 15m we had the best observations. Mount
Raleigh, of Davis, bore west, distant eighteen leagues ; this
mountain, which is the easternmost .on this side of Davis' Strait,
is of a pyraniidical form, and exceedingly high ; our observation
makes it in latitude 66° 37' north, and longitude 6l° 14' west.

' . I

; i

rlid!

Fl"

1 m

+ Ti <i>m^^^^**^^^«m

216

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

ill

Sept. 24. Cape Walsingham being in latitude 66° N. and longitude

Lat 66° 181' N.

Lori 58° 3o'\v ^° ^ ^*' *s tne easternmost land, and consequently the
Var. 67° oo' w. breadth of Davis' Strait, at its narrowest part, is about one
hundred and sixty miles. Towards evening we sounded and
found two hundred and ninety fathoms with soft mud, and a
substance like hair in it; we had a light air from the south-
ward, and stood off and on.

Sept. 24. The sky became obscured and the wind to increase
about one o'clock, until it brought us under single-reefed top-
sails ; we stood to the eastward or westward, tacking occa-
sionally to take advantage of the wind, which varied sometimes
one or two points. The weather was cloudy until near noon
when il cleared, and we had a good meridian altitude, and
also observations for the chronometers, about two P.M., after
which it again became cloudy. We then stood to the west-
ward in hopes of making the land ; but in this we were dis-
appointed, and when it became foggy we stood to the
southward.
Sept. 25. Sept. 25. The wind had gradually moderated during the

Lat. 66° 04 N. njgnt? an(j we made some progress ; at eight in the morning

Long. 59° 24' W.

q _ c 5y° 30' w. we saw an iceberg seven miles to leeward of us, near which we
had passed at eight the preceding evening ; we had again
good lunar distances, which proved that the means of the
five box chronometers gave the true longitude, and I deter-
mined to correct the rates of each at the end of the month
accordingly. Towards noon we fell in with a small iceberg,
and as it fell calm soon after, we had an opportunity of pro-

V "

*- 'A.^<r y f>^v~-Hi^<v :

nr^r;.^

y&jz. ■

; VVV

b&^^&^T*^'83S8Rft^ £W5^S &

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

217

curing as much ice as filled two tanks ; the Alexander also Sept. 26.
received the like quantity. A very thick fog coming on Lat* 65° 54 N-

,,.,.,.. & Long. 59° 35' W.

obliged us to give up this pursuit. Var& ?0o 00> w.

The winter being now at hand, and the seamen in want
of warm clothing, the slops which were supplied by Govern-
ment for the purpose were served to the ships' companies,
orders being sent to Lieutenant Parry to that effect. The
whole of this day the weather was so foggy that the land was
completely obscured.

Sept. 26. The fog cleared away about noon on this day,
and we saw the berg from which we had procured ice, six
miles to the northward of us. At one a breeze sprung up,
and we hauled in for the land, which we discovered at four
o'clock, bearing from N.W. to S.W., the nearest land being at
nine leagues' distance ; the coast here seemed to take a south-
westwardly direction, the top of Mount Raleigh was distinctly
seen like an island at the northern extremity, and was about
eighteen leagues distant, and from Cape Walsingham to the
south there were a number of small bays and capes, the names
of which are given in the Chart, but the continuity of land
was perfectly ascertained as far as latitude 6*5° 30' N. We
sounded in three hundred and seventy fathoms, off the pitch
of Cape Walsingham, of which a sketch was taken by Mr.
Bushnan; the weather was very clear, and the aurora borealis*
was seen until near midnight, when it again became foggy.

:. «il

* The reports on the aurora borealis will be seen in the Appendix.

2 F

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

Sept. 27. This morning we had some difficulty in getting
sight of the Alexander, which was necessary before altering
the course ; we steered S.W. which was nearly in the direction
of the southernmost point we saw, and fired guns occasionally
to denote our position to her. At one P.M. we saw the land
bearing from North to W.S.W. ; the intermediate land formed a
semicircular bay, and, as far as latitude 65°, was found to be
continuous from the northernmost land, which was part of that
which we had seen last night ; for the wind being light we
had made but little progress. In the afternoon we had a light
air from the N.E., and we again stood to the S.W., but
it fell calm in two hours after ; we had observations for latitude
during the night by the polar and other stars ; after divine
service the ship's company were mustered and their clothes
inspected.

Sept. 28. At midnight we hove to, having run as far south
as the coast had been explored ; at day-light it was still hazy,
but we made sail for the land, which was discovered at seven
o'clock. We ran along this coast and explored it as far
as latitude 64° 50', and at noon sounded in one hundred and
fifty-six fathoms ; at four o'clock it fell quite calm, and remained
so the remainder of these twenty -four hours.

Sept. 29. A light air having sprung up from the westward
we stood towards the southward, but the wind soon afterwards
backed to the south, and we immediately tacked and stood to
the westward ; we had numerous good observations both before
and after noon. At four P.M we were within four leagues

>"«*^ :*-.s^>.:,^.^ .-^^^-^..-^la^^— rr«— >

- #^2GRS&&E&B!£9B&&!g£B£i!tt

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

219

of the land, in latitude 65° N,; to the north we saw the land Sept. 29.

which had been discovered yesterday, and had a more perfect ££; f°o fpwN"

view of it. The Cape which we were off last night, which was

named Cape Mickleham, seemed joined to the main by a narrow

neck of land ; to the N.E. of it appeared a bay with three small

islands : one was round and flat, and two were conical in

shape : within them there appeared to be the entrance of a

small river. To the southward of the above-mentioned Cape

the land was no less remarkable ; near the southern extremity

a high conical mountain was seen bearing W.S.W., and a

mountain which resembled a martello tower, bore west; this,

we had no doubt, was Sanderson's tower of Davis; views were

taken by Mr. Bushnan of this part of the coast, which will

be found among the engravings. In the evening the wind

increased, and had the appearance of a gale : we stood to the

southward, along the land, under close-reefed topsails.

Sept. 30. After midnight it came to blow so hard as to
oblige us to furl the main-sail, and take in the fore and
mizen topsails ; but, towards day-light, it moderated, and at
three the gale had subsided, and the land was discovered.
The wind being to the westward, all sail was made in order to
close this land, but we found that the tide was setting us to
the N.E. About noon we passed a number of very large
icebergs, which we found were aground on a bank, and on
which we sounded in eighty fathoms ; on each side of this we
had one hundred and ten, and at a short distance no
bottom in one hundred and fifty. The direction of this bank was

2 f2

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

Sept. 30. N.E. by N. and S.E. by S. ; it seemed to be about six miles in
Lat. 4 10 N. ]en„tj] k^ [i was on]y one quarter of a mile broad. The tide

Long. 63° 05' W. & * J

set over it at noon on this day, N.E. bjr E., at the rate of one
mile and a half per hour. We tried for fish on this bank, but
found none. At four P.M. the land was very distinctly seen,
bearing from N.N.E. to W. by S. The high mountain which
was seen yesterday, bearing W.S.W. bore now W.N.W.;
a head land, having the appearance of a cape, bore, at
sun-set, W. by S. The latitude by the pole-star was deter-
mined to be 63° 40' N. When this cape bore west, and by
altitude of Arcturus, its longitude by chronometers was found
to be 65° west : it was named Cape Enderby ; and some small
islands, which were seen to the southward, were named Swedish
Islands; and the southermost of these, Charles's Island.

The land here trended to the westward, appearing to form
an inlet, and land, on the opposite side of it was seen, bearing
south ; after dark the course was altered to south ; it was
blowing fresh, and, having run ten leagues, which brought us
off the last land we had distinctly seen, we hauled to the wind,
on the larboard tack, under close-reefed topsails. At nine
P.M., we had cloudy weather and strong breezes. We found,
by our reckoning, that the current had set us twenty-five
miles to the N.E. during the last twenty-four hours.

Oct. 1. We stood off and on till day-light, when we made
all sail for the land ; at seven we made an island, which
appeared to be at the distance of eight leagues from the land
which was seen to the westward of it. About noon it became

,: • '■<

£j%^^

aa«wte£»M£j£.-^ *►

"* •?»*&*:

MMKSS*:

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

221

very clear, the land we passed last night was distinctly seen, and Oct. 1.

i • i i i i Lat 62° 5ls'N

its bearings taken; at the same time the island bore due west, ! ■x70tf*M

f Long. ol° 12| \V.

and its latitude answered to Earl of Warwick's Foreland ;
between the land seen to the westward of this, and that seen
to the north, there was no land, and we had no doubt but
that this was Cumberland Strait. As we approached the entrance
of this, we found a strong tide, which, during the day, set
round the compass, or in every direction. Several small
islands were also seen to the north and south of the great
entrance, which appeared to be between thirty and forty
miles wide. The land was also seen bearing S | W. In the
morning the tide was observed to carry the ship to the west-
ward, and, after noon, to the S.E., at the rate of two miles an
hour. As the first of October was the latest period, which, by
my Instructions, I was allowed to continue on this service, I
was not authorized to proceed up this Strait to explore it,
which, perhaps, at the advanced season of the year, might be
too hazardous an attempt ; the nights being now long, and the
little day-light we had being generally obscured by fogs or
snow, and the rigging of the ship covered with ice.
I thought it, however, advisable, to finish our operations
for this season, by making Resolution Island, the exact
situation of which had been laid down by Mr. Wales; I,
therefore, determined on steering for the southernmost land
in sight ; we, therefore, crossed the entrance of Cumberland
Strait, and, making an allowance for indraft, steered about
S.S.E. It will appear that, in tracing the land from Cape Wal-

fflH'lill

1*1

222

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

H :•

Oct. 2. singham, no doubt could be entertained of its continuity until

Long. 620 25Mv! the plaCe where we found Cumberland Strait, which is much
Var. 56° oo' W. further south than it was laid down from the latest authorities
the Admiralty were in possession of; but it is very near the
place where Davis placed it in his chart, which has been found
since our return. From the circumstance of a current being
found at the entrance of this Strait, there is no doubt a much
better chance of a passage there than in any other place; and
it was a subject of much regret to us, that we had not been able
to reach its entrance sooner.

Oct. 2. Having run a sufficient distance to bring us abreast
of the land we saw last night, we hove to at one o'clock, with
the ship's head to the northward ; and, at four, we wore and
hove to with the ship's head to the southward, the wind being
from the westward. At day-light we made sail for the land,
and made Resolution Island at nine o'clock : it bore about
S.W., distance eighteen leagues. Before noon it fell calm,
and became foggy. We sounded in six hundred and fifty
fathoms, and obtained from the bottom several small shells and
stones: we discovered that the tide, at different periods, set
in various directions, but strongest to the S.E. and N.W. At
eight o'clock a light breeze sprung up from the westward ; we
ran fifteen miles to the southward, and hove to.

Oct. 3. It was my intention to have taken a better view
of Resolution Island, in order to prove the accuracy of our
longitude; but the weather being foggy, and the wind light
and variable, I was obliged to abandon the attempt as

-*MR9

"* ~'- >'*w >'--: -*--='* ■-•-— ^~y

ygr^?^&5££g- - v ^S5^i4^^^?-^^^2^^!S»^*t^:

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

223

too hazardous under the existing circumstances, viz., thick Oct. 3.

. ... ,., .Lat. 6l°4l'N.

weather, bad-sailing ships, a dark moon, spring-tides, a coast Long. 62° ](? w.

surrounded with rocks, and the time I was directed to

leave the service on which I was employed being arrived ; our

bearings of yesterday were, however, sufficient to convince

us, that our observations and chronometers could not be

materially wrong. During the last night, which was both dark

and foggy, the Alexander had separated from us considerably,

and the wind being light she did not join us until noon. We

then bore up for Cape Farewell, having intimated, by signal,

that it was my intention to make that Cape on our passage

home; we sounded in three hundred and seventy fathoms,

Cape Best on Resolution Island bearing west, distance sixteen

leagues, by our reckoning; in the evening a light breeze

sprung up from the westward and we pursued our course.

Oct. 4. We had good observations for latitude, longitude,
and variation, and found the latter considerably decreased ;
we sounded at noon, but found no ground in nine hundred
and fifty fathoms ; at the same time the self-registering ther-
mometer was sent down, and the temperature of the sea
at that depth, was found to be 35f°, while at the surface it
was at 41°, and the air at 37°. Before sun-set I altered the course
to S. by E., in order to get sooner into the parallel of Cape
Farewell. During the night we had snow, and fresh breezes
from the W.N.W. On the morning of the 6th it blew a gale,
which brought us under the close reefs ; the sea rose so suddenly
that before the dead lights in the cabin were secured, two

IN»i'«L;

. 1

C-1'T 1,

-"*— *-* -^"^~ -«"----'■ ^t^— - ^-;

gain 4L4.

..,.< ]-

N ..'

■

224

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

Oct. 8

Lat. 590 oof n. of the windows were broken to pieces; at four o'clock the
vTlo^w Windshifted to the northward, and gradually decreased. We
continued our course during the seventh and eighth, and on
that morning about eight we were on the spot we had been at
on the 27th of May, when outward bound. About noon the
bowsprit was discovered to be sprung, and, the wind increasing,
no time was lost in getting in the flying jib-boom : we also sent
down the fore-top gallant mast and yard, to ease the bowsprit,
and the runner and tackles were fixed as a temporary security
for the fore-mast ; we suppose that this damage was the effect of
the late gale. The day was employed in fishing it with two spare
oak tillers which, being crooked, saved the necessity of taking
out the chock between the knight-heads ; a good job was made
of this, but it was not completely finished before night. On
the morning of the 9th we had a heavy gale; the top-gallant
yards and masts were sent down, but we were enabled to
continue our course until half-past eleven, when we were obliged
to take in the fore and main-top sails, and to scud under
the foresail. We were, at noon, eighteen miles south of Cape
Farewell, as laid down by Captain Upton*; but the weather
was so tempestuous we could not see above four or five
miles for the foam and drift on the sea. About lh 30m the
sea running very high, the Alexander was observed to broach
to, and being unable to scud any longer, she continued to lie
to; our bowsprit being not sufficiently secured, I was under

* Cape Farewell is in lat. 59°.45' N., and long. 47° 5& by Capt. Upton.

■V^^- >'.T^ NKW^^HM^r

■- J 5 i^2GSS§&ig&!SX&&£i&a?^^

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

225

the necessity of keeping before the wind as long as possible, Oct. 12.

Lat 59° 171' N.

but before sun-set a double belly-stay was fitted and set up, and Lon ■ q 46?< w

the fishes of the bowsprit secured. About six o'clock one

of the quarter boats was washed overboard, which had been

turned bottom up, and hoisted as high as possible for security ;

and, soon after, the dog I had purchased at Prince Regent's

Bay was also lost. About eight o'clock the foresail gave way,

and the ship could no longer be steered ; we then brought to

under the trysail. Soon after this the starboard quarter boat

was washed away ; and, during the night, much water was

shipped, and the boarding of the bulwark was washed away

by the sea, which made sometimes a breach over the ship, but

no other damage was sustained. Fortunately we met with no

ice, but in the morning several large icebergs were seen.

About four, A.M., on the 10th, the gale began to abate,
and, at noon, we were able to carry the close-reefed topsails,
which were immediately set. The Alexander not being in sight
we steered to the northward, being the most probable direction
for finding her.

On the 12th the weather was fine and calm, we sounded,
but had no ground in one thousand fathoms. We sounded
again, on the 14th, with no better success. Nothing remark-
able happened on our passage to Shetland. Our observations
on the latitude, longitude, and variation, as well as those on
the aurora borealis, will be found in the Appendix. We had,
in general, moderate weather, but often snow and fogs. Spe-
cimens of various birds were shot and preserved, and will be

2 G

' " — ^-^~- -»---- — ■— ^ ---< — ^^--- "-" —

i i '

'f\

■

8 II!

I 1
11

I1 >!

Ill

i I

226

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVEEY

Oct. 29. found described in the Appendix. The fulmar peterels were

Lat. 60o58i'N. -. „ ,_,

Long. 27° 02' w. our constant attendants until we made Ferroe Islands,
where they left us. We made the largest island near the
centre. Nothing was seen on our passage but one iceberg,
which was discovered, on the 1 7th, about midway between
Cape Farewell and Shetland. On the 25th of October we
made the Islands of Ferroe; and, on the 26th, were close to
the Saddeloe, and found our chronometers agreed with its
longitude. We had afterwards thick weather, and could only
discern the tops of the mountains.

On the 30th of October we made the island of Fula, and, pass-
ing between Fair Isle and Sumburg Head, arrived at Shetland,
and anchored in Brassa Sound, after an absence of exactly
six months. We found the Alexander here, she had anchored
only a few hours before, all well. The Lerwick packet being
about to sail for Leith, I sent a short account of my pro-
ceedings to the Secretary of the Admiralty, for the information
of their Lordships ; and which, after recommending the officers
and men of both ships, for their meritorious conduct, I con-
cluded in the following words : — " Not an instance of punish-
" ment has taken place in this ship, nor has there been an
" officer, or man, in the sick list ; and it is with a feeling
" not to be expressed, that I have to conclude this letter, by
8 reporting that the service has been performed, and the
" expedition, I had the honour to command, has returned,

" without the loss of a man.

" I have, #c,

J. Ross.

'!2'-y&.<^»r^'±.-*»-if~^\—?-*r-y:i' — ■»■'.- >'«s-^l ^.i^aa^JMgaEDt:

^?^;-. \«^t£35^^'&&^^3^

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

227

CHAPTER XIII.

PROCEEDINGS OF THE SHIPS AT SHETLAND SAIL FROM THENCE,

AND ARRIVE AT HULL — GENERAL ORDERS TO THE OFFICERS, AND
VARIOUS REGULATIONS ARRIVAL IN THE THAMES AND CON-
CLUSION OF THE VOYAGE.

VrE had no sooner anchored in Brassa Sound, than our
friend, Mr. Mouat, came on board, to welcome our return,
and to offer us the accommodation in his house, by which
we had been so much benefited on our former visit, and we
were thereby afforded an opportunity of concluding our
scientific operations. The dipping needle was accordingly
landed, and observations were made, which proved that no
alteration had taken place in that valuable instrument. Altitudes
of the sun were taken for time by the artificial horizon ; and the
meridian altitudes for latitude were also taken, both on board
and on shore ; and the longitude by chronometer was found,
for the purpose of determining, by the known longitude of
Shetland, the errors of the watches. The variation of the
compass was also accurately observed, and the results of all
these operations will be found in the Appendix. I also made
experiments on board both ships, to determine the points of

2 g2

,,-' ii"

Ill

■ ^ ,

228

A VOYAGE Or DISCOVERY

change, and the amount of the deviation in this harbour, for
the purpose of comparison with those made in Baffin's Bay ;
and these observations, which are at full length in Appendix
No. I., will be found of much importance.

In the mean time our water was replenished, our cables and
anchors arranged, our crews refreshed, and every preparation
made for our voyage to the Thames ; and the wind coming
fair, we sailed from Brassa Sound on the morning of the 7th
of November, having previously sent a sealed letter to Lieu-
tenant Parry, with directions to open it in latitude 58° North.
The purport of this letter was, according to the tenor of my
Instructions, to require him, the officers, petty officers, or
others, on board the Alexander, to seal up, and deliver to me,
on the ship's arrival in England, all logs, journals, charts, and
other memoranda, for the purpose of being delivered to the
Admiralty, and held at their Lordships' disposal *.

"We had a fair wind, which carried us off Flamborough
Head, where we met with a strong breeze of N.E. wind ; and,
after beating for several days, we anchored in Grimsby Roads,
on the 14th of November. The logs, journals, charts, and
other memoranda, being sealed, and collected from the officers
of. both ships, I set off for London, where I arrived on
the 16th, and delivered them, with a full account of my own
proceedings, to their Lordships.
The following is a Copy of the Rules and Regulations, issued

* The exact copy of the order is given in the Alexander's orders.

:W^-V^^I»

: ^^£^K3!?S^«l£»£*S^

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

229

by me to the officers and ships' companies of the Isabella
and Alexander, at the commencement of our voyage, and at
a subsequent period, which were to be attended to, in addition
to the " Printed Instructions" of His Majesty's Navy.

GENERAL ORDERS

To be observed by the Officers and Crew of His Majesty's
Sloop Isabella, John Ross, Esq. Commander, in addition to
the General Printed Instructions.

The officers to be in three watches, viz. .•-—

1. Lieutenant Robertson and Mr. Bushnan.

2. Mr. A. M. Skene and Mr. Wilcox.
S. Mr. J. C. Ross and Mr. Lewis.

The seamen are to be in three watches, and each watch
divided into two parts.

II.

The senior officer of the watch is to write in the rough log
every occurrence, filling up the different columns during his
watch, or as soon as possible after he is relieved ; he is also
to pay attention to the meteorological occurrences, and in
like manner insert them in the rough journal ; both the log and
journal are to be kept in charge of the sentinel at the cabin
door.

Jii,:--W"

I'1'!'!'

.J*

mm 4t'

.1.

!'"

|j':'

■1 I

n i

■I

230

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

List of Meteorological Observations to be attended io.

1. Hour.

2. Temperature of the air.

3. Temperature of water at the surface. Or, if in deep water,

the number of fathoms and temperature to be inserted
in the column of remarks.

4. Specific gravity of water. N. B. A bottle is to be saved

for this purpose at each watch.

5. Altitude of marine barometer.

6. Altitude of thermometer on deck.

7. Direction of the wind.

8. Weather ; whether cloudy, clear, snowy, or rainy.

9. Hygrometer.

10. Soundings. \

11. Rise and fall, J of the tides.

12. Velocity, ;

13. Drift or direction of the tides or currents.

14. Officers' signatures.

15. The aurora borealis is to be inserted in the remarks, with

observations on its effects on the magnet.

III.

The captain is to be immediately acquainted,

1. On a change of wind.

2. On the change of weather.

3. On appearance of fog, (when the helm is to be put up to join
the Alexander, if at a distance to leeward, out of musket shot.)

r«R»

:^>^v^f^^>- >"^"- >^>.

^,^^^d:,m^ss!S^si^s^m^'%&^

*3W^S««Si-

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

231

4. On the appearance of fog clearing away.

5. On appearance of snow.

6. On the appearance of ice (sufficient to impede progress).

7. On the appearance of shoal water.

8. On sight of land.

9. When necessary to reef topsails.

10. When necessary to let out reefs.

11. On any sudden squall.

IV.

The deck is never to be left without an officer, but when the
ship is taken suddenly in a squall, the sentinel is to call the
captain, at the desire of the officer.

The officers are required to take observations whenever an
opportunity offers ; they are to keep a reckoning, and to give
in a day's work regularly at noon, as follows : —

Latitude by observation,

Latitude by account,

Longitude by chronometer,

Longitude by observation, ©— d or ]) — *

Longitude by account,

Course,

Variation,

Bearings,

Distance.

h I

: - :

232

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

VI.

Three marines are to be selected, as constant sentinels
to relieve each other at the door of the cabin. The sen-
tinel for the time is to have charge of the magazine, instruments
stores in the cabin and gun-room, the rough logs and journals,
half-hour glass, the light in the binnacle, and other things
which may be put into his charge by the captain and officers ;
a board is to be hung up to remind him of the windino- up of the
chronometers at nine o'clock, which he is to report to Captain
Sabine ; and he is not to be relieved until he can report to the
next sentinel that the chronometers are wound up and

compared.

VII.

Serjeants Martin and Wise are to have charge of the stoves
on the lower deck, the issue of fuel, the fires, and lights, which
they are to report regularly to the officer of the watch, as
well as any disturbances in the ship.

VIII.
Captain Sabine is to be called whenever he leaves word with
the officer of the watch, or when any remarkable object is
seen in the sky or water.

IX.

The course is never to be altered without the captain's know-
ledge or directions, except in a case of immediate danger,
when the helm is to be put up or down, as may be best to
avoid it.

■ •k^o-.k-^ -■•^r-c-v

•

!82$B35®eS»BS*£*>Sy^ £«&S$&

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

233

A good look-out is to be kept from the mast-head in clear
weather, and the mast-head man to be relieved every hour, or
as may be hereafter directed in daily orders.

in I

!l HI : 1>

The lower deck is to be cleaned under the direction of the
officer of the morning watch, who is to report, when finished,
to the captain ; the men are to be sent on deck, and the
'tween decks aired and dried by stoves.

XII.

The surgeon and assistant-surgeon are to pay particular
attention to the temperature of the lower deck, and any thing
else which may be conducive to the health of the crew ; the
latter is to visit the coppers, as is usual in the naval service.

It is expected they will pay great attention to natural
history; and a report will be required of the anatomy of
the various subjects of natural history which may be met
with on the voyage.

i i

! 'h'nli

|M 5

XIII.

No expenditure of any article is to be made, but what is
regularly reported to the captain and purser, and inserted in
the log.

% H

i" I I

^^j^a^-^^tas^a^^i-^^^ai— ^i-^^. ,-. , <-^t**xx ^^-^™*~r ^^.^-^ ,- ~..

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

XIV.

The bearing and distance of the Alexander is to be inserted
at the end of every watch in the log book ; and, if lost sight
of, the time and bearings when last seen, are to be inserted,
as also the time and bearings when she is next seen, and
every necessary step to be taken to join her if out of musket-
shot.

XV.

All signals, whether general or telegraphic, are to be inserted
in the log ; the time when made, the number, and purport.

XVI.

The officers are required to take sketches of the land, and of
different objects which may appear in their watches.

XVII.

All objects of natural history, geology, and mineralogy, are
(if possible) to be brought carefully on board ; and if any
cannot be removed on account of their size, sketches and draw-
ings are to be taken of them.

To Lieut. W. Robertson,
Messrs. A. M. Skene.
J. C. Ross.
John Edwards.
C. J. Beverly.

_ _■ : v ' -~i 'i V

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

ADDITIONAL ORDERS,

At Sea

" It is my direction, that the officers of His Majesty's Ship
Isabella do transmit to me the accompanying Monthly Report of
Observations, filled up, for the information of my Lords Com-
missioners of the Admiralty.

" John Ross, Captain.

"May 31, 1818."

General Order.

" It is my direction, that every specimen of the animal,
vegetable, and mineral kingdoms, which may be found or pro-
cured by any person employed in the ships under my com-
mand and orders, shall immediately be brought to me, that
I may give such directions respecting their disposal as I may
think fit; and all officers going on any service to the shore, or
ice, or having communication with the natives, are to use
their utmost endeavours to collect and procure every thing
which may contribute to the advancement of natural knowledge ;
and of the larger animals, and other objects which cannot be
removed, sketches and descriptions are to be taken ; and all
such reports, descriptions, Sfc, are to be signed by the officer,
and sent to me for His Majesty's service.

" Given on board His Majesty's Ship Isabella, at Sea,
this 17th day of August, 1818.

" John Ross, Captain/'
2 h2

*■ u—» n <~i

■3

.i. -

• I-

I hi

236

a voyage of discovery
General Memorandum.

" Pursuant to orders from my Lords Commissioners of the
Admiralty, §c. §c. fyc.

" You are hereby required and directed to deliver to me,
the moment the ship anchors on England, all the charts, logs,
journals, and memoranda, both of a public and private
nature, which you may have kept during the time you have
been on board the ship under my command, which are to be
sealed up, and kept at the disposal of their Lordships ; and
you are to sign an acknowledgment, according to the form
annexed, for the satisfaction of their Lordships.

" Given on board the Isabella, this 9th day of
November, 1818.

" John Ross, Captain.

" To Wm. Robertson, First Lieutenant.
Edw. Sabine, Captain R. A.
John Edwards, Surgeon.
A. M. Skene,
J. C. Ross,
J. C. Beverly, Assistant-Surgeon,
And all persons on board the Isabella, who may have
kept any of tbe abovementioned documents."

Admiralty Midshipmen.

>«. -£»iS5»taEB

•TME-'JJflP HP A! . !•'• >' '>*$*SP-:

,■ - '-.

•^^^;&^T«HJ%®35^ 3SW5«&iL

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

237

Form.

" We, the undersigned, do hereby certify, that we have
delivered (sealed up) all the logs, journals, and memoranda,
we have kept on board the Isabella, between the 1st of May
and date hereof, for the purpose of being delivered to the
Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty/'

ii • >'

i;: ■

i ' .I'

ORDERS TO THE ALEXANDER.

" By John Ross, Esq , Captain of His Majesty's
Sloop Isabella, and Senior Officer, &c. &c. &c.

" Pursuant to directions from my Lords Commissioners of the
Admiralty,

" You are hereby required and directed to put yourself
under my orders, and follow all such instructions as you may
from time to time receive from me.

" Given, $c., this 13th day of April, 1818."

" Isabella, Nore, April 16, 1818.

Memorandum.

" Commissioner Sir R. Barlow having acquainted me, that only
one Advance List had been transmitted from the Alexander
to the Pay-Office at Chatham.

w "

y/i

.«

Hill

(238

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

" It is my direction, that you prepare two others, to be in
readiness by the time the Commissioner may go on board the
Alexander, for the purpose of comptrolling the payment of
her advance/'

" To Lieutenant Parry."

" By John Ross, Esq., K. S., Captain of His
Majesty's Sloop Isabella, Sec. Sec. Sec.

" Mr. M. Levy, of London, having forwarded a quantity
of warm slop clothing to Sheerness, for the purpose of supplying
the seamen of His Majesty's sloops Isabella and Alexander,

" It is my direction, that you cause each of the seamen
to procure warm clothing, equal in quality, and at the prices
of those furnished agreeably to sample, on board the ship you
command.

One Flushing monkey jacket • • • • • JPO 10 9

One pea jacket • . • 0 14 6

Two pair of Flushing trowsers 5s. 9d. Oil 6

Two red shirts 3s. 8d. 0 7 4

Two pair swanskin drawers- • > .• 4s. Od. 0 8 0

Two pair wadmill hose = . . «2s. 4d. 0 4 8

Two pair ancle shoes 8s. Od. 0 16* 0

Scarlet and fawn cap 2s. lid. 0 2 11

Carried forward £3 15 8

1WP5

1>^^-V-v^T^

^^^JW-^J&^irM.^

li I

TO THE AKCTIC 11EGIONS. 239

Brought up £.3 15 8

Two pair mitts lOd. 0 18

One pair sea boots 21s. 110

One comfortable 0 1 8

£5 0 0

" Given, $c, the 20th April, 1818/'

" To Lieut. W. E. Parry, Sec. Alexander."

" Isabella, Brassa Sound, Lerwick,
" April 30th, 1818.

Memorandum.
" It is my direction, that no petty officer, seaman, or
marine, are to be sent on shore, on duty, or leave, during the
time the ships are at Shetland.

(Signed) ■ " John Ross."

IHI

" By John Ross, Esq., K. S. Captain of LI is Majesty's
Sloop Isabella, and Senior Officer, &c, &c, &c.

" His Royal Highness the Prince Regent having signified his
pleasure, that an attempt should be made to find a passage,
by sea, between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans : And
whereas the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty have
appointed me to the chief command, requiring me to take
His Majesty's brig, under your command, under my orders ;

"i:hi:i '-

i, :,i,i

dfail^ H*m^*^ mT, <- -

Lt I* ►•'

240

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

and, being furnished with Instructions to try to find a passage,
by way of Davis' Strait, #c, you are hereby required and
directed, to pay strict attention to the following orders for
your further proceedings.

The Alexander's station on the weather quarter two cables

length distant.

II.

In event of a fog, the ship to leeward will heave to, and
fire guns, or musquets, according to the distance, until taken
in tow, or within isight or hail.

III.

In case of unavoidably parting company, to proceed to

Love Bay, in the Island of Disco, and wait the arrival of the

Isabella.

IV.

To take every opportunity of making astronomical and

meteorological observations on the passage ; a copy of which

to be transmitted to me by every opportunity, after a week's

interval.

Lieutenant Hoppner to be employed, when an opportunity
offers, in taking views of any land which may be seen, and in
making drawings of any subjects of natural history which may
be met with on the voyage : these to be regularly transmitted to
me, with his name affixed to them.

-Tv.r.'-rv t.t

•■-- ! 5 ?'^S3E&3^i?l£3BgK&Si^^

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

VI.

241

A good look out to be kept, and signals made, when any
thing remarkable is seen.

VII.

When sent to look out, always to return at dusk, or on
thick weather coming on, without signal; unless ordered
otherwise by signal, or special orders.

VIII.

Crews to be victualled at full allowance, and no increase or
decrease to be made, without my special orders.

IX.

A report to be given in weekly, or as soon after as conve-
nient, of provision and fuel.

No boats to be sent on any service or excursion, without
permission, except for the immediate safety of the ship.

i Hi

iii:, ,|. |

•,; '

■Ml

The bearings of the Isabella to be inserted in the log at the end
of every watch ; and, if lost sight of, the time when last seen,
and time of re-appearance ; and it being my intention, should
the sea be found open, to sail direct up the Straits to the
northward, it is requested you will particularly call the
attention of your officers and crew to keeping company with

2 i

242

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

■8

the Isabella, on which materially depends the safety of both
ships ; and should any accident happen, or occurrence take
place, which may oblige the Alexander to shorten sail, the
attention of the Isabella is to be called by firing guns ; or, if
dark, by a blue light, and every precaution taken to avoid
separation.

" Given under my hand, on board the said Sloop,
at Shetland, this 1st day of May, 1818.
(Signed) - " John Ross, Capt.

" To Lieut. JV. E. Tarry, Commander
of His Majesty's Sloop Alexander."

Sir,

" His Majesty's Ship Isabella, Lerwick,
May 3, 1818.

" Herewith you will receive orders and instructions for your
further proceedings ; also fifty printed papers, one of which, after
having filled up the blanks, is to be put into a bottle, carefully
sealed up, and thrown overboard, at noon, every day, after
passing latitude 65° N., provided the Isabella is not in com-
pany ; the receipt of these you will be pleased to acknow-
ledge.

" I am, Sir, fyc.

" To Lieut. W. E. Parry."

■ ■ ■

His Majesty's Ship Isabella, May 19, 1818.

Sir.

;i It is my intention to pass up Davis' Strait in the

EJ »■ <— PI I IMP V * 1 1— ■ '

■-rv 'ii

El^^ifc@%gB3agRffq«aStfi^ 35»?ri.5i:

TO THE ARCTIC IlEGIONS.

following track, in Admiralty Chart, No. 4, Coast of Labrador
and Greenland.

No. 1. to pass latitude 58° N. in 46° W. longitude.

2. ,, ;) oy ,, oz ,, ,,

3. „ „ 60° „ 54° „

4. ,5 5J ol „ 50 ,, ,,

O. ,5 ,, OZ 55 O/ 5, 55

6. Take a north course until latitude 6'7° north.

7. Then steer for Rifle Bay, in Love Bay, in Disco.

" It is my direction, that in event of parting company, you
will follow, as nearly as convenient for ice and winds, the above
track ; in order that we may be the more likely to fall in
with each other, and prevent the necessity of putting into
port.

" I am, Sir,

" Your obedient humble Servant,

(Signed)
To Lieutenant W. E. Parry.

" John Ross.

!:!'"

■"Hi,

■ii

i ..

" Memorandum.

"Isabella, at Sea, July 20, 1818.

" In order to obtain the advantage and use of the Acadian
code of signals, it is my directions, that the pendants, denominated

2 i 2

■

244

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

in the table of flags in the general signal book, ' distinguishing
pendants/ when hoisted superior, shall relate to the Acadian code,
and express the horizontal, or up line of figures, in the voca-
bulary. The vertical line being expressed inferior by the
square flags from one to nine, the ciphers, substitutes, fyc, being
used as they stand in the signal book, and the half white and
red pendant to be used as in the example.

(Signed) " John Ross, Captain.

" To Lieutenant Parry, Alexander.

II «

" It is my direction, that the officers of the respective
watches in the Alexander do pay particular attention to the
log courses, signals, and meteorological observations; and that
each column in the rough log-book shall be filled up by the
officer who actually kept the watch at the time the observa-
tions were made, or as soon as possible after he is relieved ; and
his initials are to be at the same time entered in the proper
column opposite the end of his watch.

" Given under my hand, on board the Isabella,
at Sea, August 21, 1818.

(Signed) « John Ross, Captain/'

vwrrv

" Memorandu

' It is my directions, that an order to the above effect shall
be written in the beginning, and referred to in the next page

ET»iowriM JL* ltmwr 1 itWE T< r "*

2rj&&&£&'

■„ v.>; •; y;v*, rjgH&Kl

■3B«5»5rf

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

245

of the Alexander's log-book; and that you will cause the
officer having the forenoon watch, to bring you the log-book
for jour inspection.

" Given, cf-c, August 21, 1818.
(Signed) " John Ross, Captain.

" To Lieutenant Parry."

" General."

" It is my direction, that every specimen of the animal,
vegetable, and mineral kingdoms, which may be found, or
procured, by any person employed in the ships under my
command and orders, shall immediately be brought to me, that
I may give such directions respecting their disposal as I may
think fit ; and all officers going on any service to the shore, or
ice, or having communication with the natives, are to use their
utmost endeavours to collect and procure every thing which
may contribute to the advancement of natural knowledge.
And of the larger animals, which cannot be removed, sketches
and descriptions are to be taken ; and all such reports, descrip-
tions, $c.9 are to be signed by the officer, and sent to me for
His Majesty's service.

" Given on board His Majesty's Ship Isabella,
the 17th day of August, 1818.
(Signed) " John Ross, Captain.

" To Lieutenant Parry, His Majesty's
Ship Alexander.-'

i!i' \%i

• »,

!M':

**:-*-*■ r-*™*-***!.^ jraa^-^M^j- «TTO-K.r^«^iataM

tito

Ill '*

246

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

""I

fill Hill

li
PP:!=

"lilt

" By John Ross, Esq., Commander of His Majesty's
Sloop Isabella, and Senior Officer, &c. &c. &c.

" Whereas the issuing of preserved meat and soups may be very
conducive to the preservation of the health of the ships' crews,

" You are hereby directed, to cause the purser of the sloop
you command, to issue a proportion of one pound of preserved
meat, and one pound of vegetable soup per man, a week ; the
former in lieu of salt beef and pork, the latter in addition to
the established allowance. In regard to the issue and expendi-
ture of preserved meats, #c., you are to be guided by the
instructions furnished by the Commissioners for Victualling
His Majesty's Navy ; and for so doing this shall be your order.

" Given under my hand on board the Isabella,
at Sea, this 2d day of September, 1818.

(Signed)
To Lieutenant Parry, Alexander."

" John Ross, Captain.

" By John Ross, Esq., Captain of His Majesty's
Sloop Isabella, and Senior Officer in the Arctic
Seas, &c. &c. &c.

" In pursuance of directions from my Lords Commissioners
of the Admiralty, bearing date April 16, 1818,

" You are hereby required and directed, to cause one set

WJ.

^ .*. »< .» ■ ■ i ' i

EESE^^ J ■ ^Bi^&^^i^S^^K^p^EJP: fe f. Z*£?*y $m%r*i. 5 2

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

247

of the additional warm slop clothing to be issued, gratis, to each
of the seamen and marines serving on board the sloop you
command ; and that any further surplus should be charged,
subject to their Lordships' future consideration.

" Yours, #c.,

" John Ross, Captain.

" Sept. 21, 1818.

" To Lieutenant Parry" &c.

I .! ■ \

" Not to be opened until passed to the South of latitude

58° North.

" By John Ross, Esq., Captain of His Majesty's
Ship Isabella, and Senior Officer of His Majesty's
Ships, &c. &c. &c.

" Pursuant to orders from my Lords Commissioners of the
Admiralty, fyc,

" You are hereby required and directed to deliver to me,
all the charts, logs, journals, and memoranda, you may have
kept, from the 3d of May to the date hereof, which are to be
sealed up, and kept at the disposal of their Lordships ; and
you are to sign the accompanying acknowledgment for the
information of their Lordships.

" Given under my hand, on board the Isabella,

Ik vii

Hi f

248

A VOYAGE Or DISCOVERY

Admiralty Midshipmen.

at Lerwick, this 1st day of November,
1818.

" To W. E. Parry, Lieutenant and Commander.

H. H. Hoppner, Lieutenant.

W. H. Hooper, Purser.

P. Bisson,

John Nius,

Alex. Fisher, Assistant Surgeon,
And all others who have kept documents of the above
description.

Form.

" We, the undersigned, do hereby certify, that we have
delivered, sealed "up, all the logs, journals, and memoranda,
we have kept on board the Isabella, or Alexander, between
the 1st of May and date hereof, for the purpose of being
delivered to the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty/'

VaK&WWSSMOVKV^MM^-''

i ) *£*^%,«g35«^5£&®£^9^^

: A

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

249

" By John Boss, Esq., Captain, fyc.

w You are hereby required and directed, to proceed (as soon
as wind and weather permit,) without loss of time, to Galleons,
in the River Thames, taking from hence a pilot for the Nore ;
and you are to report your arrival there, or any intermediate
port you may put into, to the Secretary of the Admiralty.

" Given under my hand, on board the Isabella.,
Humber, this 14th day of November, 1818.

(Signed)

" J. Ross, Captain/

" To IV. E. Parry, Lieut, and
Commander of His Majesty's
Ship Alexander."

" To Lieut. Robertson, (b) First
Lieutenant H. M. S. Isabella,
and Commanding Officer.

,rWt« '

2 K

"*C2b£_^tate

aiS^aaL^gam^CB^^M^i^ia*.^^^^^ j~sm-*fi*r- ^av^H^-jawraMR? „

250

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

v 1

■

ORDERS to DAVID BUCHAN, Esq. Captain of His Majesty's
Ship Dorothea, and Commander of the Polar Expedition.

" Pursuant to the directions of my Lords Commissioners
of the Admiralty, that several places of rendezvous should
be appointed, and the annexed having been agreed upon
as the best; you are acquainted that His Majesty's Sloop
Isabella will leave on each of the four first mentioned places (if
she can approach them), several marks on the shore, white

and red,
bottle

twelve feet north by compass of which a
will be found three feet under ground, con-
taining information ; and, the Dorothea and Trent are required
to do the same, should they pass before the Isabella and
Alexander.

" You are also informed, that a red over a blue ensign at
the fore, is the private signal at Columbia River. The Isabella
is to remain at St. Peter and St. Paul, until the 15th of
October, and then to be found at Owhyhee, refitting and

wintering.

" Given under my hand on board the Isabella, at the
Nore, 20th April, 1818.

(Signed) " J. Ross, Captain."

" To Captain Radian,

Hia Majesty s Ship DorolJica."

*&sr<t

^v-v^^-y^^-K^:../:-:-^ -wa->-

&£* J^-t^T^ j^S^^^i^55^5SJ^^FrS^S^-«^^^.»'?;!^ ^ ^Sii^^? S^Kgr^g ^^*L

TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

251

RENDEZVOUS REFERRED TO.

Cape Lisburne

Cape Mulgrave

East Cape

Choukotchkoi Noss

JLat. 69° 05' 00" N.
iLong. 165° 22' 30" W.

JLat. 67° 45' 30" N.
lLong. 165° 12' 00" W.

Lat. 66° 05' 30" N.
Long. 169° 44' 00" W.

JLat. 64° 14' 30" N.
ILong. 173° 31' 00" W.

V '

■,: 1

JLat. 53° 00' 37" N.
Awatska Bay \ ' 0 , ot.„ 1? .

J ILong. 158 44 30 Last.

Karakakooa Bay in [Lat. 19° 28' 10" N.
Owhyhee lLong. 155° 56' 23" VV.

Lieutenants Parry and Robertson, pursuant to orders,
sailed from Hull on the 16th, and arrived at Deptford on
the 21st of November. I was directed by Lord Melville to
signify their Lordships' approbation of the conduct of the
officers and crews of the two ships ; and to acquaint them,
that it was probable an expedition of a similar nature would

l.i ■:' ' '

irf

=*=3"=*=^;*re"«-s3»g"^^ ~r-^-*~n^M^a*imiL.

252

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY,^.

iii

be undertaken in the ensuing spring ; and that those who were
desirous of volunteering their services should have a preference
over all others, should be found employment during the
winter, granted a month's leave of absence, and kept in pay
until the ships were ready for receiving men ; upon which
nearly the whole volunteered, and the Isabella and Alexander
were paid off on the 17th of December.

i ' »:

it j

raea

^^*>^^^'^^<^^>;^:~7<* >':s«t

APPENDIX.

^fTrv fiaaaa&iaiga«i^i"-r-r ■

^Ai ■■; r^T*-^*^ ^~-*r^. ^^L^^L^^^t

*Mfi

;* -

*9S

^^v^-^^.v y^o-K^:, ,r>-^ -^

■ lllii

■

1 ! I

•

■
i

9(99

*srTwM

^UlimBUIOM^^

INTRODUCTION.

The following Article, on the Variation of the Compass and
Deviation of the Magnetic Needle, is not offered as a contra-
diction or a confirmation to any theory which has been already
adopted ; — the author has all along considered himself as a col-
lector of facts only.

The manuscript was submitted to the Board of Longitude
and Royal Society, where it has been read and approved ; and
I am authorized by the President, Sir Joseph Banks, to say
that he would have proposed its being printed in the Philo-
sophical Transactions, had he not been informed that it was to
be published in the Narrative of the Voyage; after which it was
not consistent with the regulations of the Royal Society to
print it.

JOHN ROSS.

a 3

II -,

:m\\i

J Hi

iJ!!!l

|f;

'•'

f^irv^V^A->^-vx^-,y.

*ww.-*^**ttCT5a

ON THE

VARIATIOxN OF THE COMPASS,

AND

DEVIATION OF THE MAGNETIC NEEDLE

oINCE the first discovery of the attractive power and polarity of
the magnet, and the consequent invention of the mariners compass,
great improvements have been made in its construction, and some
very unexpected magnetical phenomena have been discovered. The
compass was in use for some years, before it was known that the
needle had any deviation from the true polar direction. About the
middle of the sixteenth century that deviation began to be suspected;
and observations made soon afterwards, proved that, in England and
its vicinity, it was Easterly. This variation of the compass decreased
until about the year 1658 or 1660, when the direction of the needle
corresponded with the meridian, from which time it became Westerly,
and increased. This variation was found to differ in all parts of the
world ; while it gradually varied, it became absolutely necessary, that
mariners should be furnished with the means of daily ascertaining, in
every situation, the quantity of error, or variation, of the compass, in

-r^-"*-^**-' ^-T>^^'^-- ^^--^--^-. ^a^-^fc^-

\\y u "

<ii.

<-»- :

■

APPENDIX, No. I.

order to correct the courses to be steered, and the bearings of objects
seen. In ascertaining the quantity of this variation by the well known
methods, the result was, till within a few years past, generally
believed to be correct; or, at least, not subject to much error. Differ-
ences in these results were at length observed by modern navigators,
particularly by Mr. Wales, the astronomer, who accompanied Captain
Cook in his third voyage; and these differences were from 3° to 6°,
and even 10°, with the ship's head in contrary directions; and under
various other circumstances, mentioned in the Introduction to Cook's
Voyage, they were from 3° to 7°.

It was reserved, however, for that able and scientific navigator, the
late Captain Flinders, to elucidate this interesting fact; to explain
the probable, and till then the unsuspected, cause of this aberration
of the needle ; to draw conclusions, and to lay down a rule for cor-
recting the error of variation, occasioned by changing the ship's head,
which, under the circumstances, and within the limits of his observa-
tion and experience, were probably legitimate and correct. But the
principle on which this rule is founded, will not be found applicable
to every circumstance, and to all situations, and particularly where it
has now been put to the test, in Baffin's Bay.

The memoir, written by Captain Flinders on this subject, is recorded
in the Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society for the year
1805; from this, it appears to have been his opinion, that the error of
variation, consequent on a change in the direction of the ship's head,
was produced by the combined force of terrestrial magnetism, and
" ferruginous attraction" within the ship.

-T1~t 7 -« V >■' -T ■ r'^'V ^aaMiMgaEBi

.- - ■ . • v ■ ; - ' ■ .

- ' ^>i^^^^B^^lS^^^^^JP-^^?^^^ *x^£»,\

APPENDIX, No. I.

Vll

In the year 1812, the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty ordered
experiments to be made on board five different vessels, in the King's
ports, " with a view of ascertaining the particular causes of error to
" which Captain Flinders had adverted ; or of obtaining some general
" results from an inquiry so intimately connected, as it appeared to
" be, with the improvement of navigation." These experiments, as
far as they went, tended to establish the fact, and to justify the
opinion of Captain Flinders. Still, however, more information was
wanted respecting this subject, for the purpose of discovering a rule
that would enable us to. find the true quantity of error in any place,
and under all circumstances.

•

Although the experiments above mentioned gave some insight into
the causes of this variation, they were insufficient to explain them
perfectly; nor is it probable that we shall soon be acquainted with
them, ignorant as we are of the nature of many physical appearances
of familiar occurrence. Though it would, perhaps, be possible, in the
present highly improved state of navigation, for one, thoroughly versed
in seamanship and nautical astronomy, to conduct a ship in safety
from England to any port in the world, without the aid of the mariner's
compass ; yet, in cloudy tempestuous weather, or in confined waters,
and surrounded by land, his doubt and anxiety could only be relieved,
or confidence given to his mind, by the compass. It is, therefore,
necessary, that this instrument should be rendered as unerring a
guide as possible ; and this can only be done by a certain universal
and invariable mode of finding the true variation, at all times and
places, and under all circumstances.

tlj

ff Jvli^PI

•rTr^iir-ii^adCi^^MttjMiigrri i i ri

■"» -»«w^»«^* *mx*>^*f

APPENDIX, No. I.

This variation of the compass being one of the important objects
of the Expedition under my command, it became my duty to examine
the various reports and publications on the subject, and to endeavour
to ascertain how far the different systems given to the Public are
correct; and the rules for correcting the deviation of the variation to
be depended on. Every possible opportunity was embraced during
the voyage of taking observations, and making all the necessary
experiments and comparisons. These, with their results, will be
detailed progressively, as they were taken in each month, as well as
the steps I deemed necessary to come at the truth.

bgr^?^i &^ ?3®2?B35®E«8«&J4^

S3&29&

EXPERIMENTS

MADE ON BOARD HIS MAJESTY'S SHIP ISABELLA,

IN THE MONTH OF MAY, 1818.

1st Experiment on the Difference between the Compasses of the Isabella

and Alexander.

The signal was made to steer N.W. by W. ; and when the Isabella
was on that course, and the masts of both ships were in one, the Alex-
ander was N.W. | W.

2d Experiment. — The signal was made to steer West ; and when the
Isabella was on that course, the Alexander was W. by S., the masts
of both ships in one.

3d Experiment.— The signal was made to steer S.W. ; and when the
Isabella was on that course, the Alexander was S.S.W. | W., the masts
of both ships in one.
And, in like manner, —

With the Head North, and Isabella North, the Alexander N. § W.
Do. N.E., do. N.E., do. N.E. |E.

Do. East, do. East, do. E. \ S.

Do. S.E., do. S.E., do. S.E.IS.

Do. South, do. South, do. S. ± E.

And when the compasses were carried on board the Alexander, to
be compared with the ship's head S.W., there was a difference of

\m\\

APPENDIX, No. I.

one point between the Isabella's azimuth compass and the Alexander's.
Jennings's insulated compass was exactly between them and one
of the other compasses had half a point difference to the west.

The operations were repeated, but never gave the same results ; so
that no rule could be laid down, at this time, to correct the deviation.

On the 4th of June in latitude 65°44'N., and longitude 54° 46' 30" W.,
observations were made, as near as possible, at the four cardinal
points, which gave the following results : —

Ship's Head North,
Do. South,

Do. E.S.E.,

Do. West,

Mean 59 44 41

Ship's Head N. 17° E

The mean of the Alexander's observations on the 4th of June, was
56° 55' 10" W. ; but the head West is not included, as Lieutenant Parry
reported that the ship was unsteady at that point.

June 9th. The variation was observed by azimuth on the four
cardinal points of the compass, the means of which gave 5° more than
the true variation observed at the same time on an iceberg, which
was:— - - 67° 10' 00" West.

On board Isabella, with her head West, the varia-
tion was observed to be - - 72 10 20 West.

^ZL^SL^C^LZ^A^* . »■— ^ ■ J--'"»-ryr.i y^^^^L..^- ^v^---.^. r-^i^-^I,->-

APPENDIX, No. I.

And, at the same time, when observed with the ship's head
N. 14° E., it gave 67° 8' West, agreeing nearly with that on the ice-
berg. Azimuths were then taken 20° on each side of N. 14° E., and
their mean gave the same result.

June 19th.

The

following bearings were taken

of a

distant (

ject :—

ship's head.

OBJECT.

ship's head.

OBJECT.

North -

N. 4

— W.

E.S.E. -

13 25 W

N. by E.

N. 1

— E.

N. byW.

8 15 W.

N.N.E. -

N. 1

— W.

N.N.W.

10 45 W.

N.E. by N.

N. 4

— W.

N.W. by N. -

12 00 W

N.E. -

N. 8

— W.

N.W. -

13 45 W

N.E. by E.

N. 10

30 W.

N.W. by W. -

13 50 W.

E.N.E. -

N. 11

45 W.

W.N.W.

13 15 W

E. by N.

N. 12

30 W.

W. by N.

12 20 W

East

N. 13

30 W.

West -

10 20 W

E. by S.

N. 14

00 W.

W. by S.

7 50 W

The variation at the observatory was found to be 72° 43' W.,
while on board, with the ship's head N.N.W., it was observed
to be - - - - 83° 00' West.

From which, subtracting - - 10 45 the deviation at N.N.W.

Leaves true variation, 72 15 West.

The foregoing observations and experiments, made under favour-
able circumstances, tend to establish several important points : —

'IvW-^**

1st. That there is a point of change in the deviation of the variation
occasioned by the attraction in the ship.

2d. That the point of change is not the magnetic north, but near it,
in the Isabella.

3d. That it varies in different ships, and is affected by increase or
decrease of variation, by proximity to land, or to another ship.

4th. That the point of change may be found by azimuth, or by the
bearing of a distant object situated near the magnetic north, or in
any other direction, if that cannot be had.

RULE.

Take an azimuth, or the bearing of a very distant object by the
azimuth compass, with the ship's head at different points East and
West, of North, until the points of least and greatest deviation are
found ; the mean of these will be nearly the point of change.

EXAMPLES.

On the 19th of June an object bore N. 4° W. by compass; and the
ship's head, by means of a rope fastened to the iceberg, was in succes-
sion brought to eight points of the compass, by which it was found
that the point of change in deviation was N. 17° E.

^liBSrf5^^y,*ls'£3gsaE*^^ -— ■=

H <*

;'!!.'

il -.

III!

„rj

XIV

APPENDIX, No. I.

1st. On the 19th of June, with the ship's head N.N.W., the varia-
tion observed on board was - 83° ' West.

Difference of bearings between ship's head and point

of change - - - Increasing 10 45

True variation, 72 15 W.

2d. On the 19th of June, with ship's head N.E.,

the variation observed on board was - 64 20 W.
Difference of bearings between ship's head and point

of change, - - decreasing 8 00

True variation 72 20 W.

Iri

It seems evident, that azimuths taken on each point will have the
same effect, and therefore no example is required.

It is, however, necessary to observe, that this point of change was
calculated from the compasses in the binnacle, which agreed with the
azimuth compasses placed amidships, half way between the mizen-mast
and capstan ; but the point of change may be altered by setting the
compasses in any other position in the ship; and particularly by
shifting them from midships to the side. Finding the point of
change thus subject to alteration by changing the position of the
compasses, and the angle of deviation itself materially affected by heat
and cold, as well as by the humidity and density of the atmosphere ;
to obviate these difficulties, a binnacle was constructed to stand

B W K*a5-> ' >^/. v.'

EXPERIMENTS AND OBSERVATIONS

MADE

ON BOARD H.M.S. ISABELLA, IN JULY, 1818.

A flag staff was erected upon the highest part of the Three Islands,
in lat. 74° 1' 15" N. and long. 57° 45' W. ; from whence the exact bearing
was taken, with Kater's compass, of a remarkable spot on a sugar-loaf
mountain, nine miles distant. The ship then stood to the offing three
miles, until the flag staff and spot were in one. Between the inner and
middle circles of the annexed figure the transit bearings are inserted,
when the ship's head was on the several points of the compass, drawn
to correspond in line. For instance, with the ship's head North, the
two objects in one, bore S. 5° E.; and when the ship's head was N.E.
they bore S. 21° 41' E.; and so of the rest. It is clear, that the point
of change is between N. by E. and N.N.E., as represented; for when
the ship's head was N. 17° E., the transit bearing of the two objects
agreed with that taken on shore; and the deviation immediately
increasing the variation to the west, and decreasing it to the east.

Between the middle and outer circles, will be found the degrees
and minutes to be added to, or substracted from, the variation
observed, with the ship's head, on any of the particular points of the
compass corresponding in line, to obtain the true variation; or to
obtain the true course, if steering on any of those points.

7^««^y '■actfas^BSss-igsBgasgH^ca^ wwww5f--w»ci.ET-«!>^

HKtfdiifltilM

.« --

IS III

"* 1(1

1. ...

II '

XVlll

APPENDIX, No. I.

These observations were made on board with Walker's, Alexander's,
Jenning's, and Burt's compasses, all agreeing. But, Jenning's and
Burt's did not traverse sufficiently quick to obtain all the results
with them. The four compasses used were always kept in the
same stations, and where they were found to agree with those in
the binnacles. The compass in the centre was sufficiently raised
above the other three, to make each three yards equidistant from
it, and from each other; the whole four forming a solid pyramid,
thus

The Alexander made the same observations. Her point of change,
however, was to the Westward of North, and her deviation rather
exceeded the Isabella's; but her compasses having been shifted during
the operation, no conclusion could be drawn, but that the deviation
existed to a great degree, though in what various proportions was not
ascertained.

I was desirous to determine whether the quantity of iron on board
the Isabella was the cause of this extraordinary deviation; and how
far my conclusions were applicable to the ships employed in the Davis'
Strait Fishery. For this purpose, I went on board the Harmony of
Hull, M'Bride, master, the senior in the trade. I took with me, two
of the compasses I had observed with, and found them exactly agree
with those in the Harmony's binnacles. Having gone through the
same observations on board the Harmony, I found her deviation to
be full two points each way; or, 45° difference between the bearings
of the objects when the ship's head was W. by N. and E.N.E., on
which points her extremes were found. The wind was S. by W. true,

r»

ro«*2u?£V

I ■■■!<>

but when the ship's head was to the "Westward, she laid up only
W. by N., the wind appearing to be S.W. by S.; and with her head to
the Eastward, she lay E. by S., the wind then appearing to be S. by E.
Every surrounding object, such as ice-bergs, fyc, altered their bearings
in the same proportion.

Mr. M'Bride, who gave me every assistance in his power, by placing
his ship on every point I desired, told me, that during twenty voyages
he had made to this part of the world, the wind appeared to him often
to shift when the ship was in stays ; and, frequently, he supposed it to
be the effect of current when the ship did not fetch so far to windward
as he expected. It was, however, the general opinion and belief, that
compasses lost their magnetic virtue in Davis' Strait; and, therefore,
the whalers seldom look at them, but go by the land, and through
channels in the ice.

«=--' -y^T«— ^»^--- ^r--T*-^~.r* ■>■ — ~

iv:

It' I*

APPENDIX, No. I.

-.,:■ m

DIAGRAM, No. 1.

SHEWING THE DEVIATION OF H.M.S. ISABELLA,

OBTAINED BY

ACTUAL OBSERVATION ON EVERY POINT OF THE COMPASS,

IN BAFFIN'S BAY.

; > ■

PY^- f.^-Tr T—7-iil i

■ ~v

^SS^a—^iai^A-d i "~ri r ny*-i*w -rTff^i^Ti^Jt^irvv^gims^amimiamm

pi. 1 j

\M§*

it ,»-.' ■••

ifll $l J*

1. *•*( 1h.»

III

'yfl

HKk ■■''

XXll APPENDIX, No. I.

ISABELLA'S DEVIATION.

The Isabella's deviation was obtained during the time she was
impeded by ice, between the latitude 75° and 76° N., and when the
variation was between 86° and 96° W., by various and repeated obser-
vations made on the ice, and on board the ship with her head on
every point of the compass; and no alteration in its amount was
perceptible between the latitudes of 71° and 76° N., although the
variation had increased from 75° to 110° W. But it was found to be
considerably increased by humidity in the atmosphere; and frequently,
no compass in the ship was of any use but Alexander's of Leith, the
card of which was suspended in a superior manner for diminishing
the friction. Being, also, lighter and smaller, and the needle power-
fully magnetized, it traversed when all others had ceased to act; but,
on the 31st of August, the weather became rainy and boisterous, and
the ship having considerable motion, this compass also ceased to act.
The ship was at that time in lat. 74° 30' N., and long. 81° W., and for
a short time, our course out of Lancaster Sound, which we had
examined that day, was regulated by firing musquets to the Alexander.
The rain, however, soon ceasing, the compasses again traversed.
The variation on that day was ascertained to be 115° West, by a transit
bearing of Capes Fanshawe and Byam Martin, taken when to the
westward of them. The ship's head being on the point of change,
they bore N. 53° E. from each other, or S. 53° W. from the ship.
The weather being at that moment pretty clear, and subsequently
when the ship was to the eastward of these Capes, they were found

^^t^^^

:^,:.^:-.

j*S5£'

APPENDIX, No. I.

xxin

to bear from each other S. 46° W., and from the ship N. 46° E. The
variation that day was observed in Possession Bay (which lies between
them) to be 109° W., and the true bearing of the Capes N. 62° W.

On the 11th of September, in lat. 70° 35' N., and long. 76° 55' W.,
when the variation was observed to be 75° W., and the dip 84° 39' 21",
the deviation had not decreased in the Isabella, nor was the decrease
very perceptible till we had passed the 66th degree of north latitude.
But, although the exact amount of deviation was not ascertained, yet
the bearings of the land were always found correctly, by placing the
ship's head on the northern or southern points of change, The deviation
was sometimes found to be more or less, according to the state of the
weather when the ship's course was resumed, and the bearings of the
same objects were taken.

The Diagram, No. 2, seems to prove clearly, that the points of
change in deviation do not alter, unless some material alteration is
made in the stowage of the metallic substances in the ship, as they
continued the same in the Isabella for five months ; whilst the variation
had altered from 27° to 115° W.; the deviation itself differing only
in amount, which, however, bears a proportion, though not a regular
one, with the increase and decrease of the variation and dip. Never-
theless, it may, by actual observations of the most simple nature, be
obtained sufficiently near the truth for the purposes of navigation.

|i T'iT'Ii'

|J'| j] :;•■"

TVi

**^_

r«vr r*sp**gfre* ri!*~z>>

m**

p '" "

III

XXIV

APPENDIX, No. I.

DIAGRAM, No. 3,

Shews the Deviation of the Alexander on the 27th of July,

In Lat. 75° 30' N., and Long. 60° 30' W.

OBTAINED BY ACTUAL OBSERVATION, ON BOARD, OF A DISTANT OBJECT,

AND

COMPARED WITH ITS BEARING TAKEN ON THE ICE.

■\

1? I'd'

* p#^mMP>^NB'«i

XXVI

APPENDIX, No. r.

ik e

1 :H?'

ALEXANDER'S DEVIATION.

The Diagram, No. 3, contains the result of experiments made by
me on board the Alexander, on the 27th of July, 1818, in lat. 75°30' N-
and long. 60° 30' W., to shew the difference between them and those
I afterwards made in the same ship, on her arrival at Shetland. Soon
after we had forced the last barrier of ice, on the 16th of August, it
was found that the Alexander sailed much worse than the Isabella,
and it therefore became necessary to trim her. Iron casks, and other
metallic substances, were removed from the quarter deck, and, in con-
sequence, her points of change were altered. The weather being
subsequently unfavourable, and the season advancing, I had neither
time nor opportunity to make further experiments on board her. All
the bearings, therefore, taken from the Alexander, of the Coast, after
that time, are of course of no value. But the amount of deviation, as
well as the points of change, altered in an extraordinary manner.

By the subjoined official Report, made to me by Lieut. Parry, it
appears, that on the 28th of August, in the most interesting part of
the voyage, the Alexander's deviation was actually greater than that
of the Isabella, on some points; but, we had no opportunity of deter-
mining either the direction, or amount, until our arrival at Shetland ;
where, having examined part of the log of the Alexander, I found
that where three or more bearings of headlands had been taken, they
could not be made to intersect. But the charts on board the Alex-
ander will shew how much the ablest navigator may be led into error
in their construction, when the points of change, and the amount of
deviation, have not been obtained, and where the variation is con-
siderable.

*»F^

■•^.^ra v>-rc>i' — ?■! *

dM! S^&^SSiSS9SSS^6i&9^S9i^9!SiS)^^ t !Q • ^f&^S&y

APPENDIX, No. I.

xxvn

Sir,

His Majesty s Ship Alexander, at Sea,
September 1st, 1818.

I have the honour to state to you, that the officers
who have charge of the respective watches on board the Alexander,
having, on the 27th and 28th ult., reported to me, that they had
remarked a very perceptible inaccuracy in the compasses, by the
ship's lying repeatedly within eight and a half, eight, and even seven
points, on both tacks ; I took particular notice, on several occasions,
of the direction of her head by the compasses, before and after tacking,
and found their report to have been correct. I select the following
instances : —

Aug. 27th.

5.30 P.M.,

about 9 P.M.

Aug. 28th.

8.30 A.M., on the larboard tack, W.b.S. ] 10 points (in
„ starboard do. S.S.E. J original*),

larboard do. W.N.W. ]
starboard do. S. W.b.S. J pomts-
starboard do. S.W. 1
larboard do. N.W. J 8 P°intS'
3 A.M., starboard do. S.S.W. 1 8 points,

larboard do. W.N.W. /(much swell)
6.30 P.M., larboard do. N.W. b "

W.|W.- 8± points.
„ starboard do. S.S.W.

* There are only nine points,
d 2

IN1

m'l

■

\i •*

'Slit

m «!5

8 :. -

Hi.

at up k'

i si-

XXVlll

APPENDIX, No. I.

By referring to the diagram of the experiments made on board the
Alexander under your direction, on the 27th of July, it appears that
the deviation then found on any of the above courses is totally in-
adequate to account for such a difference ; the amount being now
almost as many points, in some instances, as it then was degrees.

This deviation has become less perceptible since the 28th and 29th,
though it is still found frequently to be much greater than on the
coast of Greenland.

I have the honour to be, tyc. fyc.

(Signed)

W. E. Parry

To Capt. John Ross,
H.M.S. Isabella, at Sea.

itti

m I,

llti

The Diagram, No. 4, exhibits the extraordinary alteration that was
found to have taken place in the Alexander's points of change, which
were now ascertained to be, both of them, to the Northward of East
and West. It seems completely to prove, that the ships attraction,
or magnetism, is independent of any other influence with regard to its
direction; and, that its amount is governed (though by no means
regularly) by the amount of dip and variation, in a considerable
degree.

The amount of the Isabella's deviation having been fully determined
in the month of July, when the variation was between 80° and 90° West,
it only remained to remark its increase, or decrease, as we advanced
to the North and West; and how it might be affected by changes of

^ v^m m '9C'WKHWi!MSNP«wNWiS> -. ^ ■« .

- -^J&^^£^t£5S«£)£S£^ .* ^MX&gs*

APPENDIX, No. I.

xxix

climate. It is to be observed, that, until the 21st of August, almost
daily opportunities occurred to obtain the deviation, by taking from
the ship, and on the ice, the bearings of distant objects. After
the variation exceeded 90°, the deviation did not increase per-
ceptibly; but humidity seemed to increase it considerably. When
the ship was fast to the land-ice, in several instances there was a
difference of 7° in the transit bearing of two distant objects, and
with the ship's head on the points of greatest deviation, it increased
from 22° to 29°. The variation might, however, have been increased
by the same cause, as well as the deviation ; for, in experiments
made of the same kind, I never found so much difference when the
variation and deviation had contrary names. The greatest variation
actually observed on the ice, was 110° W. in lat. 76° 45' N., and
long. 77° W. At Cape Byam Martin, in lat. 73° 33' N. and long.
77° 10' W., it was observed to be 109° west : but the bearing of two
points in one, to the west of that Cape, being taken, first, in long. 81°
west, and secondly, from Possession Bay, an increase of 7° was
found (the hygrometer being nearly the same), hence the variation in
74° N. and 81° W„ was ascertained to be 115°, having deducted 1° for
increase of deviation. Here it is to be observed that, in consequence
of the alteration which is mentioned before to have taken place in the
Alexander's points of change, and the discovery made on the 28th
of August, that her deviation had increased, and the points of
change not having been determined till our arrival at Lerwick, all
the bearings of places in the log of that ship from the day that
alteration took place till our reaching Shetland, are incorrect, and
cannot be reduced to truth; for, as I have before observed, they
cannot be made to intersect ; and there is one remarkable instance

ill i«

''• '

'''"

J I

■

Id ••

XXX

APPENDIX, No. I.

I in

M> Jig

where Cape Walsingham has been brought so far to the eastward,
as to place it considerably outside the Isabella's track. On the con-
trary, in reference to several days' works, given in full in the Journal
I kept, it will be found, that the reckoning and observations agree
so well, as completely to prove that the variation can be corrected
to the nearest degree; and, consequently, the true courses to be
steered, and the bearings of objects may be found to the greatest
accuracy. In my Journal, the variation corrected for deviation is
given on every course, in a column next to the compass courses,

After the 1st of September, no good opportunity offered for ascer-
taining the deviation, but it was found to decrease rapidly after the
variation was less than 60°, During the month of October, few
observations were made, but the variation and deviation decreased
together ; and, on the arrival of the two ships at Lerwick, a set
of experiments were made under my direction on board each, which
have been illustrated in the diagrams, Nos. 2 and 4.

The several facts to be gathered from all the experiments made at
different times, appear to be the following: —

1st. That every ship has an individual attraction which affects the
compasses on board her ; and to ascertain the exact quantity of its
effect, though possible, requires the most particular care and the
nicest attention.

2d. The effect of this attraction being different in different ships,
and not progressive always, but often irregular, no general calculation
will therefore apply in the case of all ships, to ascertain it for the
purpose of correction ; and, consequently, all the rules hitherto given

*" '.'*^W 'SWWSrWV»«HSC4iP'

^_^^^^ t&t v.- !®S^SR35«^WS*^B»S^^i

S? *• fis, J'.

'MBWtSt:

APPENDIX, No. I.

xxxi

for obtaining it, particularly in arctic climates, cannot be re-
lied on.

3d. As six compasses were compared with each other on board the
Isabella, and found to agree in the same place ; and all to disagree
when placed in different situations between the stern and the foremast,
it is evident that the deviation in any ship will vary according to the
station of the compass at the time of using it ; and, therefore, as the
point of change will not be the same at every part of the ship, all
observations must be made in one and the same place, where the
point of change has been obtained, and to which only that point of
change will apply.

! ■" :

!iily i

4th. The deviation does not always continue the same under the
same apparent circumstances, and varies according to the point the
ship's head is on.

5th. The deviation appeared to be materially affected by heat and
cold, as well as by atmospheric humidity and density.

6th. The direction of the wind seems to have an irregular effect on
the deviation.

J .'*! r

> !

1th. The dip also has an irregular effect on the deviation.

%tk That though the points of change found with the compass in
the same part of the ship will remain the same, unless some material
alteration is made in the stowage of metallic substances on board.

XXXll

APPENDIX, No. I.

yet the amount of deviation with the ship's head on any point of the
compass will bear a proportion, though not a regular one, with the
increase or decrease of the variation and dip ; by both of which the
deviation appears in some degree to be governed, though not the
points of its change, they seeming to be independent of any influence
but the ship's attraction or magnetism ; and which is not of equal force
in every part of the same ship, nor, perhaps, alike in any two. It is, how-
ever, presumed, that the experiments and observations that have been
made, and the rules proposed before, and exemplified on, the 4th and
19th of June, and in the month of July, at the Three Islands, will
be sufficient to correct the errors in the mariner's course, which have
so often proved fatal, and hitherto been attributed, perhaps, to
defects in compasses, to currents, and other unaccountable causes.

In conclusion, it now, therefore, only remains for me to endeavour
further to explain : —

1st. To shew how the deviation may be obtained when the
variation of the compass has been -found, by observations made, out
of the influence of the ship ; and,

Idly, To ascertain the true variation on board a ship at sea, when
the variation is not known.

The first is an easy process for one of the meanest capacity, being
simply to find the point of change, and then the difference on the
point steered.

"-~7" *-'-■--* ^

£S±

,^i; J^k-5[iT ^ .^I^^^^^S^Si^^^JS^^uT:^??^^*:;?^^? ? ^2^r^^ 5S^R>5r^^ ^ :

APPENDIX, No. I.

xxxiri

RULE

To find the Point of Change in Deviation.

Let the bearing of one, or the transit of two distant objects, (whose
true bearing from the ship, or from each other, is known) be taken,
with the ship's head at several points of the compass ; if they all
agree the ship has no deviation ; but, if not, the one which is found to
agree is the point of change.

I'l'lil.i

RULE

To find the Deviation for the Point steered.

Let the bearing of the same object be taken with the ship's head
on the point of the course steered ; and add, or subtract, the difference
between them, as it increases, or decreases, the variation.

To find the deviation at sea when a distant object is in view, whose
true magnetic bearing is not known : let a boat be sent out of the
ship's attraction, to take the bearing of the object, and then the
bearing of it is to be taken from the ship, in the manner before described.
But even when no distant object is in view, it can be done in fine
weather with smooth water, by veering a boat (copper fastened)
astern with a compass. The ship is then to steer on different courses,
(the boat always keeping her masts in one), until the compasses of

i Hi.

^"^^^^^^-^^rr^jjjgjgggtgj^^^^gi^SffliB^^ESSfiCSififlE^

Zfilr* 3"JF~G"k~r scs^-mirtY »

>»"*

XXXIV

APPENDIX, No. I.

<ei

the ship and boat agree. If there is no difference between them on
any point, the ship has no deviation. But whatever difference is
found between them on any point, that is the ship's deviation for
that particular point, and must be added, or subtracted, to correct
the ship's course on that point, according to the true magnetic
course of the boat. And, in like manner, the respective differences
found on the several points, are to be applied to each. On whatever
point the courses of the boat and the ship agree, when her masts are
in one, that is the ship's point of change. The result of observations
made with the ship's head on this point will give the true variation of
the compass ; but if observed on any other points, the error of
variation will be according to the amount of deviation, or differences
found on those points respectively, between the course of the ship and
boat, and must be applied + or — as the case may require, to correct
it. The variation may be observed, either before or after this process,
for finding the ship's point of change and deviation; and if amplitudes,
or azimuths, are taken at different parts of the ship, the difference
between the azimuth compass (wherever it may stand), and the
compass the ship steers by, ought always to be taken, and applied in
like manner to obtain the true variation.

It would be of great benefit to navigation if the bearings of
remarkable head-lands, and other objects, on the coasts of different
countries, were correctly taken, and inserted in published charts.
For, a ship, able to approach near enough to take the transit bearing
of any two such objects, whose relative situations were exactly true,
could thus know at once her deviation, on whatever course she was
steering (if the true variation was on the charts), since it would

;->.^.-kw-

-• ' ' -' -••-•v —* v"

&j?^£^&«S»JZ3»3raft^ $m%?5&%ZL

APPENDIX, No. I.

XXXV

be the difference between it and the true transit bearing laid down
on the chart ; taking into consideration, at the same time, the known
variation. For instance, supposing a ship to be steering west by
compass, along a coast where two remarkable objects are situated
true north and south of each other, and the variation laid down on the
chart is 29° west. On setting these objects in one from the ship, they
are found to bear by compass N. 24 E., making a difference of 5° for
her deviation on the west point. So that if she had now to steer a
correct magnetic west course, it must be shaped W. 5° S ; or to make
a true west course, W. 24° N. according to the variation of 29° west.

If, again, with her head N. by E. she finds the transit bearing of the
two objects to be N. 29° E. by compass, agreeing with that laid down
on the chart; according to the variation, then, that is the point of
change, because there is no deviation.

Again, if in steering east by compass, she finds the transit bearing
of the two objects to be N. 34° E. by compass, the difference between
it and that on the chart, according to the variation, being 5° ;
therefore, to shape a correct magnetic east course, she must steer
E. 5° S. ; or, to make a true east course, E. 34° S.

Men-of-war, and, indeed, all ships, should, at every opportunity,
try the deviation, and ascertain their points of change ; and, after it is
found, the metallic matter ought not, in any quantity, to be re-
moved.

JOHN ROSS.

e 2

i!! .■,'

• " l.

■ ■ v

<Ar

ii'j 1

IIP
; i

■^mf^fV ^—^*^^~^ ~..*«mr*-^

s^.«t 7-y*>^4r-. y3vo^-^*g^:n- -j-" — '~" "

i!'f';

-OTfc'i

f r*^7fl fm+m^k^^*^*'^ II

,. > :-i

p"'

I
I

g lis

ti hi;

1 1.

pi:

tf ;t v

■^--.e yt..'t- -wwamy— t-,>^M,>-WMH!,>^g- ^T>'""— fiTT PT'

FOR the following Article I am indebted to Mr. Edwards, Surgeon, and
to Mr. Beverley, Assistant-Surgeon, of the Isabella. To these Gentlemen,
and most particularly to Captain Sabine, I intrusted the execution of this
department of my Instructions, according to the following Extract from
them : —

" And have also, at the recommendation of the President and Council
of the Royal Society, ordered to be received on board the Isabella,
" Captain Sabine, of the Royal Artillery, who is represented to us as a
" Gentleman well skilled in Astronomy, Natural History, and various
" branches of knowledge ; to assist you in making such observations as
may tend to the improvement of Geography and Navigation, and the
" advancement of science in general.

" You are to make use of every means in your power, to collect and
preserve such specimens of the animal, mineral, and vegetable, kingdoms,
as you can conveniently stow on board the ships : and of the larger
animals you are to cause accurate drawings to be made, to accompany
" and elucidate the descriptions of them. In this, as well as in every
other part of your scientific duty, we trust that you will receive material
assistance from Captain Sabine.'

The voyage having terminated, I applied to the latter officer for his
reports and drawings on this subject, which he declined giving on the
following grounds : —

"m*^f*-« ^— ^r, ^~^ ^**mr*-^ sr^*-^.^ ^-^ ; ».yw=*jr.j -y^^AI ^-M»^~t. j-fl - >-~—-'

mfl

INTRODUCTION.

ill!

'/ 1

" Dear Sir,
" In reply to your request for information on Natural History, I have
" no pretension to more than a very ordinary knowledge on any branch of it,
" excepting Ornithology *.

" Edward Sabine."

" Dear Sir,
" In reply to your note of Sunday night, the specimens of Natural
" History being now at the British Museum, I am in almost daily habits of
" communication with Dr. Leach, to whom I supply all the information
' that my notes, which are very rough, and my memory can furnish.

" Edward Sabine."

From these communications to Dr. Leach, no result, however, followed ;
nor was any memorial furnished to me, as, from the nature of my Instructions
I was entitled to expect ; neither was I furnished with any drawings on
these subjects, which I flattered myself I should have obtained, in conse-
quence of the talents for drawing which this Naturalist was represented to
possess. I can only regret, that my own inability, and my total want of
acquaintance with the science of natural history, should have rendered me
incapable of filling up a blank which the public, trusting to the acquire-
ments of that officer, as represented in my Instructions, would not have
expected to find.

As the urbanity of Dr. Leach is well known to all, it is, perhaps, unneces-
sary thus publicly to thank him for the kindness with which he revised and
corrected the report. Of this I can judge ; but the knowledge which he
has displayed, of which I cannot judge, is equally known to all those who
are acquainted with the science which he so successfully cultivates.

* I had the more reason to expect a communication, on the subject of ornithology at least,
as the ability of Joseph Sabine, Esq. (the brother of our Naturalist,) in this department of
natural history, is well known ; and as I had received a letter from him, of which the
following is an extract : —

" 1 feel particularly pleased that my brother approves of my promise made to you
" yesterday, of my keeping all my specimens from the public eye, until we describe them
" jointly in your account of the voyage."

■A^r.<r y^v >->^ : i-«*</>. ^'- «-. s :-*<> -

.i^V^S5&^S^^i::i^^J2^t:^j^^ S€KS^£--!5t^5

ZOOLOGICAL MEMORANDA.

Class MAMMALIA.

Genus PHOCA, (Seal).

Species 1. Phoca Barbata, (Bearded Seal), killed on the 11th of
June, in lat. 68° 23' N., long. 55° 14' W. A seal in its second year,
according to the judgment of our Esquimaux.

Its length, from the tip of the nose to the extremity of the tail, was
eight feet; its circumference, behind the fore flippers, five feet seven
inches ; weight, eight hundred and thirty pounds.

Fore flippers measured in length eleven inches,

in breadth six inches;

Hind flippers in length sixteen inches,

in breadth two feet, when expanded.
The claws of the former were black, horny, and curved ; those of the
latter were long and straight. Fingers five, middle ones longest in
fore flippers. The body covered with thick, coarse, short, dark grey
hair. The eyes about the size of an ox's, furnished with a nictitant
membrane, irides dark hazel; the pupil elliptic perpendicular. No

in I'

\\H :' ;ll

ib!

;l ''"

> " -

xlii

•t

•a t

i i

. 1 1

APPENDIX, No. II.

external ears; the auricular apertures placed about two inches behind
the eyes. The upper lip broad, rounded, fleshy, divided into two
lobes by a deep sulcus, or division, which is black and naked; each
lobe is provided with eight rows of strong white bristles, semi-pellucid,
and curled at the ends. The lower lip thin and pointed. Tongue
thick, pointed, and cleft; upper surface papillous. Teeth, upper front
six, truncate, small; tusks solitary, truncate; grinders three, the ante-
rior one solitary; lower front, four imperfectly developed; tusks small
and obtuse; grinders seven, the two posterior imperfectly lobed, the
rest being small long tuberosities, scarcely produced through the gum.
The heart about the bulk of that of the ox, its texture strong; the
foramen ovale obliterated (a point on which there is yet some discord
among comparative anatomists). The aorta three inches diameter,
its coats two lines and a half in thickness ; the calibre of the pulmo-
nary artery nearly the same; the thickness of its coat one line.
Kidneys elliptic ; lobes one hundred and fifty to one hundred and sixty.
Stomach filled with a greenish dark fluid; its inner coat lined with
ascarides an inch and a half long ; they held on with great tenacity,
rendering it difficult to detach them; the small intestines were
inhabited thickly with teniae, from one to five feet in length. Excre-
menta of the large intestines resembling thick verdigris paint. Penis
about eighteen inches long, eight in circumference ; the lobe about
eight inches long, and three in circumference; the lower surface
depressed for the reception of the urinary canal.

Species 2. Phoca Hispida? (P. Fcetida? Pennant.) The Rough
Seal. This was caught in Jacob's Bight, on the 30th of June. It was
four feet in length ; hair on the belly of a silvery grey, with a few

r i ■ iii

^&&&£5>&S9Ras*&iB5glSm^ 5S«5«&

*4£S£

APPENDIX, No. II.

xliii

obscure dusky spots : back and sides dusky ; on the latter, numerous
curved lines of a silvery hue gave it a map-like appearance; the hairs
longer and softer than the P. Barbata. Head round; no external ears,
apertures an inch behind the eyes; eyes large, irides hazel, pupil
elliptic perpendicular, furnished with a nictitant membrane; eye-
brows formed of four bristles, above the inner angles of the eyes.
Upper lip thick, furnished with seven rows of whiskers; lip divided
by a fissure, covered with a black naked skin. Nose small. Teeth
in upper jaw, four front acute, the two outer ones longest; tusks
solitary, long, acute; grinders five, tricuspidate : lower front, four
acute; tusks solitary; grinders five, lobed. Fore flipper with five
fingers, the inner one longest; shorter in gradation, like the human
foot: claws long, curved, acuminate. Hind flippers, also, armed with
acuminate curved claws. The heart of this animal was examined,
and in it the foramen ovale was found obliterated.

;

As our specimen is young, I am not certain that it is referable to
the species quoted, and have therefore added a note of doubt.

Genus MUSTELA, {Weasel).

Species Mustela Erminea, {Ermine Weasel). In lat. 73° 37', and
long. 77° 25', on the West side of Baffin's Bay, a small animal of the
weasel kind was shot; its length, from the tip of the nose to the
insertion of the tail, eight inches and a half; to the tip of the tail

:ilMi*»"

|:f1

■^Mg/v , -rzy^-rxr, ^ ^~z.<+. y .-jre^- ^r^^ ;^^«,. ^*^ur7,-y»K^*r s ^K^t4n r^*

U •*

xliv

APPENDIX, No. II.

St K ■
■IP* •••-

' ill

"If I

■I

eleven inches and a half. Head, back, and greater part of the tail,
of a chesnut colour ; the end of the tail black. The chin, cheeks,
circle round the ears, and the toes, white; breast and belly of a
yellowish white; the yellow prevailing most approximate to the
chesnut.

This little animal, which has been compared with the common
Ermine Weasel of Europe, agrees with it in every character. In the
valley where it was shot, there were found hares, mice, and abun-
dance of water birds, on the eggs of which these animals are known
to feed.

Genus URSUS, (Bear).

1 i

Ursus Albus, Brisson, {White Bear). On September 10th, the
boats of the Alexander pursued and attacked two bears, which were
swimming in the water; one we killed, but it sank; the other, also,
was, after much trouble, killed and secured, and brought on board.

1 1

Ft.

Length from the snout to the tail 7

Do. to shoulder-blade. ... 2

Circumference of body, near the fore legs . . 6

Do. of neck 3

Breadth of fore paw 0

Do. of hind paw 0

In.

8
10

2
10

f ,K -m \ iEm^'b i

I !!...«

av-T'i

, *£!

[££^23R&®£!5ft£V£&£^^^ £&&?£ ^

APPENDIX » No. II. xlv

Ft. In.

Circumference of hind leg 1 10

Do. of fore leg 1 8

Do. of snout, before the eyes .... 1 8

Length from the snout to the occiput 1 6

Height at the fore shoulder, a little more than 4 0

Fore claws 0 2|

Hind ditto 0 1#

Tail ... 0 4

Weight, after loss of blood 1,131± lbs.*

Teeth, front six, above and below ; tusks one inch and a half long, in
the upper jaw solitary, in the under jaw approximate to the fore teeth.
Grinders four, above and below; the anterior one very small, the
posterior very large, the intermediate ones approximating in size to
the latter. The hair white, thick, and strong, very long on the body,
and more so on the limbs. Nose black; eyes dark hazel.

s ' i

ti'i

Genus LEPUS, (Hare).

■? The only one of this species was shot in

Species Lepus —
lat. 73° 37', on the West side of the Straits. It was nearly the same
size as Lepus timidus, (the common Hare): the body was white,
except that a few solitary black hairs, longer than the rest, were
dispersed over every part, and which appeared to be rapidly coming

* It is supposed he must have lost thirty pounds of blood.

I| '" -' '

\p "

xlvi

APPENDIX, No. II.

away ; the tips of the ears, and the short hair within the ears, were
black ; tail short and white.

w»

I $

It was shot on the 1st of September. Another shot by a Master of
a Whaler, in May, at Hare Island, differed very little from the above.
Dr. Leach thinks it to be very distinct from the common White Hare
of Scotland, (Lepus albus, Brisson), and equally so from the Ljepus
variabilis, Pallas.

Genus BALjENA, (Whale).

Species Baluna Mysticetus, {Northern Whale). On the 31st of
July, a whale was harpooned and brought on board by the boats of
the two ships. It was what the whalers called a fair-sized fish; i. e.,
the longest of the whalebones, forming the fringe in his mouth,
measured nine feet and a half.

The extreme length of this fish, from the tip of the lower lip to the

furcation of the tail 46 ft. 0 in.

Girth of the animal, around the abdomen 28 0

Do. at the root of the tail 5 2

Length of tail from its root to the fork 4 0

Extent of ditto 15 7

Fins, length 9 0

Do. breadth 4 0

Do. thickness at the base 1 G

*h i ?n^ *7 i t r""i i'l ^^ftiM

i §r^^&^*3®'£3BaS®£S

swsaaaRssffimrtg s»e»s

APPENDIX, No. II.

xlvii

Spiracles two; longitudinal apertures placed nearly parallel to each
other upon the top of the crown bone, about fourteen feet from the
tip of the lip; they are about six inches long.

The eyes are placed on each side, about five feet from the top of
the crown bone, about sixteen feet from the tip of the lip, and about
one foot above, and rather behind, the angle of the mouth.

The fins are articulated about two feet obliquely behind and below

the eyes.

The anus is placed about twelve feet before the extremity of the tail.

The penis about two feet before the anus; it is contained in a deep
sulcus or groove, two feet long, the lips of which meet and conceal
the organ. This is about nine feet long in its relaxed state, six inches
in diameter at its base, gradually tapering to a point, in which the
urethra terminates.

The under lip and the throat were white ; a broad band of white
extended across the abdomen, between the penis and the anus, which
almost met on the back ; the middle part of the lower surface of the
tail white; on the edges of these white patches were many black
blotches, giving the animal, on the whole, a pie-bald appearance.

The necessity of taking advantage of a fair wind, and clear water,
obliged us to cast off the carcase, without making a further examina-
tion.

hi t

..' '<

■ if :"

—

I f

-I

■ I

II,

ii!

■I

.-A

■ ■

xlyi.jti APPENDIX, No. II.

Class II. AVES, (Birds).
Genus FALCO, (Falcon).

Species Smitellus, (Merlin Falcon). Several of these birds shot
in lat. 65°.

Genus SOMATERIA, Leach, (Eider).

Species 1. Somateria Spectabilis, (King Eider). A pair only
of this species was shot, in about lat. 72°. Several were seen as high
as 74°, mixing with Cuthbert's Eider. It is generally named King
Duck.

The trachea of this bird resembles that of the Anus Moschata. See
Plate I A, Jig. 1 and 2. Latham.

Species 2. Somateria, (Cuthbert's Eide^), commonly named the
Eider Duck.

Many of these were shot in the months of June and July, between
lat. 71° and 74°.

r»l'l

Genus CLANGULA, Gessner, (Garrot).

Species Clang u la Glacialis, (Northern Garrot). One only of
this species was shot in lat. 72° N.

riLv . - .' -*"». w . . w -»- . HP M *- -

■■ - %r< ^^^SR3§^^^s®e^!s^^i^^^^ seessas-

APPENDIX, No. II.

xlix

The vulgar name is Long-tailed Duck.

The most remarkable circumstance connected with this bird was
the construction of its trachea.

The lower portion of the trachea, about an inch in length, is com-
posed of six bony ribs on each side, which unite posteriorly, forming
a convexity. Anteriorly they advance to complete the tube, but,
terminating abruptly, they form on each side a ridge of small tube-
rosities, leaving an open space broader at the lower than at the upper
end. The continuity of the wall of the canal is, however, finished by
means of four delicate bony transversed bars, connecting the opposite
ridges together, over which is spread a thin transparent membrane.
The canal opens into an irregular bony ampulla, or labyrinth, from
whose bottom the right bronchial tube emerges. From the fore and
back parts of this ampulla are given off two processes of bone, which
unite, and form with its left side a kidney-form concavity, about the
size of a horse-bean, over which is spread another membrane,
resembling the membrana tympani of the ear, forming a mem-
branaceous cell, from which originates the left bronchial tube. The
communication between this last and the osseous one is scarcely
perceptible.

The use of these complicated organs, more remarkable in the duck
species than in any other of the feathered tribe, has yet to be
demonstrated by the physiologist.

'■■i'iiili

: 'i

1 1" \

APPENDIX, No. II.

t II

Genus MERGULUS, Ray. (Sea Dove).

Species. Mehgulus Melanoleucos, (common Sea Dove), popu-
larly denominated Little Awk, or Roach.

The size of a small dove ; breast and belly white, the rest of the
bird black, except a white dot above the eyes. In this state of
plumage they were found during the months of June, July, and
August, the old bird, as well as the young in the nest.

At the end of September several were shot in lat. 66°, in all of
which a change of plumage had taken place. The chin, throat,
cheeks, had changed to white ; the white feathers almost meeting
upon the nape ; the breast black and white mixed ; the feathers of the
scrag and interscapular regions intermixed also with some hoary
feathers ; the tips of the primary quill, coverts, and scapulars, white.
In other respects the bird remained as in the summer months.

These birds were found in myriads, in July and August, in 75° and
76° latitude. On the west coast of Greenland many hundreds were shot
daily, and supplied to the ship's company. They are extremely
palatable ; and, although feeding chiefly on a small species of cancer,
with which the arctic seas abound, they were free from the taste
of fish.

The Esquimaux of Prince Regent's Bay use their skins for their
inward clothing.

*}G*flH+^*J#

*V7N9RWW&

APPENDIX, No. II.

(]

Genus PROCELLARIA, ( Petrel).

Species I. Procellaria Glacialis, (Fulmar Petrel). This bird
was found in great abundance in every part of the Straits and Baffin's
Bay. There were two varieties. The most numerous were of a hoary
grey colour, with a white bar across the wing coverts when
expanded. The others were of an uniformly dusky colour ; in other
respects they did not differ.

These birds live upon any oily substance they can find on the
surface of the sea. Their stomachs are generally found loaded with a
rancid oil, which they disgorge on being wounded. They collect in
great numbers around the whalers, when they have caught fish, in
order to pick up the refuse, which they devour with great gluttony.
Their flesh is extremely offensive.

Genus GRYLLE, Leach ; CEPHUS, Cuvier, (Scraber).

. I:

Species I. Grylle Scapularis, Leach, (TVhite-wmged Scraber),
common name, Black Guilemot.

The body entirely black, except a white spot on the wing, which is
a distinguishing mark of the bird in all its ages. The bill is black, and
the legs and feet crimson.

It is found in every part of Baffin's Bay, lays two eggs, about the

Hii

\p '"

■

If!

•» !(l

.,> -

- '1

III

1 .« |

v^H

lii

APPENDIX, No. II.

size of a pullet's, of a dirty white, with black spots; makes its nest in
the holes they find among the debris and the rocks on the shore.

A young one, shot in the beginning of August, measured twelve
inches in length, and nineteen and a half in breadth; its plumage, varied
black and white. The white speculum on the wings distinct, although
mixed with a few dark spots; its bill black, its legs and feet dusky.

Some others were killed in the month of November, in Shetland, in
whom the plumage differed little from the last, but the legs and
feet had assumed the perfect crimson colour.

Genus URIA, Brisson, {Guilemot).

Species I. Ukia Francsii, Leach, {Franks'* Guilemot). Larger
than the last. Breast and belly white ; rest of the bird black. Found
chiefly in the southern part of the Straits. No variety was found in the
plumage of any shot.

This species was first discovered, off Ferroe, by F. Franks, Esq.,
who accompanied Captain Kater, and was sent to Dr. Leach, who
gave it the above name. It was also killed by the ships that went to
the Spitzbergen coast. It differs in some particulars from Uria
Troile, {the Foolish Guilemot), with which we, from the imperfection
of descriptions, confounded it.

>fr«tar^^-c vv^oo^^

— rnrp'vi "

-t

22*

*mWl«*JWMil*miM™UMnM

APPENDIX, No. II.

Genus MERGUS, Brisson ; COLYMBUS, Latham, %c.;
EUDYTES, Illiger, ( Diver ).

Species I. Mergus Septentrionalis, (Red-throated Diver).
One only of this species was seen ; it was brought on board by some
of the natives of Jacob's Bight.

Genus LARUS, (Gull).

Species I, Larus Tridactylus, (Kittiwake Gull). This is a beautiful
Gull, and is very numerous in the Straits. In the full-aged bird the
bill is of a beautiful lemon yellow ; the orbits and inside of the mouth
of a beautiful saffron red, indes straw colour, legs of a livid colour.
The top of the head, the nape, back, wings, of a fine ash colour;
tips of the wing-coverts black, the rest of the bird white.

In several young birds, shot in September, in lat. 70°, the bill and
orbits were of a deep livid, in some the yellow was making its
appearance. The plumage differed from the old ones, in the ash colour
being deeper, and more general in the upper parts of the bird ; many
of the wing, wing-covert, and tail feathers, being tipped, otherwise
marked with black ; the lower parts, like the old birds, white. In this
stage of plumage they are known as the Tarrock Gull.

-jfrrw,er,F T^Ynrr fnr-y.v r?

ggsaare-ysEwgaresr jgg«=«»™»s* ^-^-a^^iiir

toll*

APPENDIX, No. II,

Species II. Larus Eburneus, (the Ivory Gull). This bird is
rather larger than the last. The bill of a deep lead colour, the edges
and tips yellowish, two inches long from the angle of the mouth ; the
orbits of the eyes red, the irides brown ; legs and feet black ; tarsus
one inch and three quarters ; the whole plumage of an immaculate
white. Length nineteen inches, breadth forty-one inches.

The young birds differed only from the above, (which was a female)
in being spotted black on different parts of the wing-coverts and
spurious wings.

LARUS GLAUCUS.

Species I. Laurus Glaucus. Bill light horn colour, strong, gib-
bosity on the lower mandible, red ; nostrils, linear, placed in the
middle of the bill, no cere ; length of bill from the base, two and a
half inches ; from the angle of the mouth, three inches ; irides, straw
colour.

Interscapulars, back, and wing- coverts, light ash colour; the rest
of the plumage perfectly white.

Wings as long as the tail, the tail cuneiform; thighs, legs, and
feet, livid flesh colour; tarsus, two inches and three quarters; length,
from twenty-six to twenty-eight inches ; extent, from fifty-eight to
sixty-four inches ; there is no difference between the male and the
female .

These birds were found from lat. 65° to 76° ; more numerous to the
northward.

B^MfifliMWafcM*^

•^ v . $ • V^?^^^^

APPENDIX, No. II.

Species I. On June 6th, in lat. 65° 35', a gull was shot, its length
was twenty-six inches ; extent, fifty-nine inches ; bill, of a dirty flesh
colour; the tip, dark horn colour; gibbosity, red; legs and feet,
livid flesh colour ; plumage, white, but mottled on the back ; wing-
coverts, and breast, with indistinct shades of brown; toes, four, hind
one clawed and strong.

June 9th, in lat. 66° 20', killed another gull, whose character agreed
in all respects with the last ; except, that instead of being mottled,
there was only a slight shade of ash on the wing-coverts, the rest of
the plumage being white.

July 11th, in lat. 74o, two females were shot, differing from the
former in being smaller, and in having yellow bills ; the ash colour
was also of a bluer hue, and was more general on the back and
wings. These are the only two birds that answer to the Larus Glaucus
of Linnaeus aud Pennant, the former are clearly a different species :
No. 1, being the species in maturity; Nos. 2 and 3, verging towards
complete plumage.

The habits of this last are also the habits of the Burgermeister of
the Dutch; they build on high cliffs, and they destroy and eat the
smaller aquatic birds. We did not, absolutely, see them attack other
birds, but when our parties were out shooting the little awk, these
gulls, hovering over our heads, would pounce upon the wounded
birds, and carry them off. A female bird that was shot, disgorged a
whole bird ; and, being brought on board, it smelled so offensively,
that it was immediately examined, and in its stomach was found
another bird quite whole ; the stomach was distended, and in a state

!i " I

—

1 1*

Ivi

APPENDIX, No. If.

of mortification as well as the small bird. The Gull, no doubt, had
been unable to eject its prey, and the function of the stomach being
suspended by the distension, irritation, inflammation, and, at length,
putrefaction had ensued

Genus STERCORARIUS, Brisson. (Jager.)

Species I. Stercorarius Cepphus, {Arctic Jager), common
appellation, Arctic Gull. Bill, one inch and a quarter from the base,
black; upper mandible, much curved at the point, with an odontoid
procep; lower mandible, gibbous ; nostrils, linear, situated in a cere;
tongue, cleft; front, crown, and nape, dark brown; neck, cheeks!
chin, throat, breast, and belly, white; about the vent varied with
brown; all the rest of the body, dusky; wings, deeper coloured;
the two middle feathers of the tail seven inches longer than the rest!
legs, lead colour; thighs and feet, black; hind toe, clawed; length,'
twenty-one inches, including the two tail feathers; breadth, thirty!
seven inches ; irides, amber brown. This is the full-aged bird.

Some young ones shot, July 27th, differed, in the bill being lighter
coloured; all the brown plumage of a lighter shade; the white
plumage beneath, less clear; the neck, all round, and the hind part
of the abdomen, varied more or less with dusky feathers; the tail-
coverts, barred white; wing and tail linings, mottled brown and
white; shafts of the two outer primary quill feathers, white; the rest
gradually browner; length from fourteen to fourteen inches and a
half; breadth, thirty-six inches and a half to thirty-eight inches and

-> ^--g %•■»,-- < > ^.-, ^ ^.-.. ^ ^-^., ^ ^

mrk

££u£

0?^J?^*^l^iI35®£S^^

APPENDIX, No. H.

Ivii

a half, the two middle tail feathers in these three young ones, were
from two to four inches only in length.

Genus X£MA, Leach. {Xeme),

Tins genus approaches to th^ Gull in the form of its beak, and
to the Tern, in having a furcate tail, as well as in the general form
and proportion of its legs ; the only species hitherto discovered, is
the following;—

i1 jili

■'!'i!H

Species Xema Sabijsti, (Sabine's Xeme, non-descript.) Larus
Sabini, (Sabine). This bird, which is a new species, was found
only on a small island in lat. 75° 20' on the west coast of Greenland;
it was found associating with the greater Tern, and when it saw its
nest in danger, like them, uttering the same clamorous notes, flew,
without fear, above its nest close to the head of the party. Its eggs
were of the same size and form, and nearly of the same colour, as
those of the Tern.

Larus Sabini. {Sabine Thorn. Ann. of Philos., Vol. xiii.) Bill, one
inch and a half from the angle of the mouth, an inch long from the
base ; upper mandible, a little curved at the point ; the lower mandible,
with the angular gibbosity peculiar to the Gull ; the inner half of the
bill black, the rest yellow ; nostrils, linear, situated in the middle of
the bill ; tongue, long and cleft ; inside of the mouth, and the naked

$.:■?

, ;

'>S^>i;*;g?!SF ^S^^K^ y^^^- >

A -v ra^^<f >g«s&3^^gis&g^ ^-~~

it *

lviii

APPENDIX, No. II.

ig lift

1 \y

■ it

orbits of the eyes, vermilion ; irides, black ; the nape, throat, and
whole head, of a very deep cinereous, bounded by a black ring round
the neck, two lines broad ; a small white spot under the eye ; the
neck, interscapular ; region, and all underneath, white ; back, wing-
coverts, and scapulars, bright cinereous ; spurious wings, black ; the
shafts, outer webs, and half of the inner webs of the first five primary
quill-feathers, black ; tips, white ; the inner half of the inner webs,
white to within an inch of their tips ; the sixth feather white, with a
little black in the middle ; all the rest of the quill-feathers, white ;
tail, white; outer feathers an inch longer than the middle ones,
wings an inch longer than the tail ; legs and feet, black ; latter palmate
four-toed; the hind one, clawed small; length, fourteen inches and a
half; extent, thirty- four inches and a half; tarsus, one inch and a
half; sex makes no difference in plumage ; weight of male bird, seven
ounces and a half; female, six ounces and a half.

Genus STERNA, (Tern.)

Species 1. Sterna Hirundo, (common Tern.) This beautiful bird
is found in every part of the Straits near the land, associating with
the smaller Gulls, particularly the Kittywake; their eggs are about
the size of a pigeon's, of a dirty green hue, with small dark blotches;
the bill is beautifully subulate, crimson ; in one or two, shot to the
southward, the lip was black ; front* crown, and nape, black ; back,
wings, wing-coverts, bright cinereous; outer web of first primary
quill-feather, black ; the outer web of the others, cinereous ; the inner

— y vv-^^s^:.^^:.. ^- ... ^~^-v

— \ S ■ «»

<- '^^r'.: '.^' .'••^■^■. tgffgm •■;;.. 3^;.:.*: :-•.;

APPENDIX, No. H.

lix

half of all the inner webs, cinereous ; the outer half white to near their
tips, which are black ; tail coverts, and the rest of the bird, white ;
in some, breast is tinged cinereous ; tail, forked ; the two outer
feathers, longest ; their outer webs, black ; legs and feet, crimson ;
wings as long as the tail ; length, sixteen inches ; extent, twenty-
five inches.

ORDER GRALLffl.

Genus TRINGA, (Genus Scolopax, Knot, 53 Linn.)

Species 1. Tringa Islandica, (Iceland Knot), found about Hare
Island, and Jacob's Bight, as high as lat. 72°.

i ml

' !

Genus PELIDNA, Cuvier, (Dunlin.)
Species 1. Pelidna Alpina, (Alpine Dunlin).

Genus LOBIPES, Cuvier, (Lobefoot.)

Species 1. Lobipes Hyperboreas, (Red Lobefooi), commonly named
Red Pkaleripe, found as high as Jacob's Bight.

h 2

.0.

S^-TJ^Jgy^-Z^^^

■

-■A

APPENDIX, No. II.

Genus LAGOPUS, Ray. {Ptarmigan.)

-if B

Species 1. Lagopus Mutus. {White Ptarmigan.) A few only of
this species were seen in the Waygat and in Jacob's Bight.

The small bird was perfectly white, with large scarlet naked eye-
brows, which was inconspicuous in the female ; the plumage of the
latter was variegated white, black, and rusty-rufous; the legs and
feet of both were thickly clothed with long soft white feathers down
to the claws, giving them the exact resemblance of a hare's foot,
whence the name. It is the White Partridge of Pennant. Edwards,
Ellis's Voyage, page 37, &c.

Genus EMBERIZA, {Bunting.)

\S I.

Emberiza Nivalis, {Snow Bunting), found in every part of the
Straits as high as 75°, lat.

r v"ffilintfvTi f r~iM r r-g-iirr-o

B^i*^J^.-Wa*ah^^.^Lfcg^JJ

%m&$%

Hiii,

A LIST OF INVERTEBRATE ANIMALS,

DISCOVERED BY HIS MAJESTY'S SHIP ISABELLA,

IN A VOYAGE TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS ;

CORRECTED BY DR. W. E. LEACH.

Type MOLLUSCA.
Class I. PTEROPODA.
Genus I. CLIO, (Pallas.)
Species 1. Borealis.

Genus II. LIMACINA, (Cuvier).
Species 1. Arctica, Argonauta Arctica, O. Fabricii.

Class II. GASTEROPODA.

Genus III. MARGARITA, {Leach).

Species 1. Arctica, (new species). M. purpurascente carnea-tenuiter
striolata, operculo testaceo. Baffin's Bay.

Genus IV. NATICA, (Lamarck).

Species 1. Beverlii, (new species). N. Spira elevatiuscula, anfrac-
tibus superioribus convexiusculis. Baffin's Bay.

Q4F.4 ^*-^>K- * *Z**T4K:: V-Wg^ >^^< ^^^*^!*^Arr^^*T?^^<ar,: ^^^S^

"!!

«llti

lxii

APPENDIX, No. II.

Species II. Fragilis, (new species). N. Spira fere obsoleta, testa
fragilissima, operculo hyalino. Baffin's Bay.

•KB

.« p ;

Class III. ACEPHALA.

Genus V. MODIOLA, (Lamarck).

Species 1 . Arctica, (new species). M. alta, radiatim late striata. Baf-
fin's Bay.

Species 2. A fragment of a species much allied to, if not the same
with, discrepans, occurred amongst soundings, from lat. 62° N., long.
62° W.

Genus VI. NICANIA, (Leach).

Species 1. Striata, (new species). N. concentrice sulcata, sub
ambonibus cordato-impressa. Lat. 76° 42' N., long. 76° W.

Species 2. Banksii. N. glabriuscula polita, sub ambonibus impresso-
excavata. Baffin's Bay. Received also from the coast of Spitz-
bergen.

Genus VII. Crassina, (Lamarck).

Species 1. Scotica, Venus Scotica. (Maton) Lat. 62° N., long.
62° W. Depth 80 fathoms.

Genus VIII. MACOMA, (Leach).

Species 1. Tenera. M. concentrice striolata, epidermide virides-
cente-lutea. Lat. 76° N., long. 76° W.

/■■;-•■• r. *

^inrT>

■

m&i s ^SSS9RSS^&SSt&

feSfK^

"•.4J;^. V; I'',

APPENDIX, No. II.

lxiii

Type ANNULOSA.

Class ANNELEIDES, (Cuvier.)

Genus I. NEREIS, (LinnS).

Species 1. Phyllophorus. N. ore edentulo, pedibus basi lamellis
foliosis instructis. Baffin's Bay.

Genus II. LEPIDONOTUS, {Leach).

Species 1. Rossii, (new species). L. pedibus densissime testaceo-
hirsutis, squamis dorsalibus coerulescente-griseis. Baffin's Bay.

'Mi;!!

Class CRUSTACEA.
Genus III. HIPPOLYTE, (Leach).
A fine new species was found near a mass of ice.

Genus IV. GAMMARUS, (Lattreille).

Species 1 . Sabini, (new species). G. segmentis dorsalibus postice
falcato-productis. Baffin's Bay.

Type AMORPHA.

An endless variety of the Class ^ALEPH^, were brought home,
and sent to the Museum, but in a state so much contracted by the
spirit, as to render it impossible for Dr. Leach to make out their

!!!

;gaaE>r>^ssag>

>5J-^Oi

—

IB m

:::

mil

m II

* •

lxiv

APPENDIX, No. II.

genera. Observations on these animals, whilst living, accompanied
by accurate drawings, are quite necessary to render the preserved
specimens of any degree of use ; and it is to be regretted, that no
Naturalist, capable of performing these indispensable parts of his duties,
accompanied the expedition.

'«■

■ P

r-mtf

..I

^^-'< -,*■■:* > ^^M»^T«1rrTTgir.^-ra»-.^ ^^> ..

GEOLOGICAL MEMORANDA

g^^aiigigM^ji^^ww^^

\M ?*

<a «

" ft

Lift 4'
I" ft .

'•*

> ^.~, ^ r,.. J>^-.-..,^..

Sj€B5%&3^

I think it necessary to inform my readers, that the following
pages, on the subject of Rocks and Minerals, constitute all that
I have to give on the geological history of the countries we
visited. My assistant, as well as myself, being unfortunately
ignorant of that part of natural history, all I could do was to
bring on board a part of every thing I met with; and being
alike unacquainted with the substances, and the mode of col-
lecting them, I fear very little information will be derived from
them.

Being unable to obtain even the names of the specimens
collected, from the officer intrusted with the department of
Natural History, I have been obliged to apply for assistance
on this subject since my return ; and Dr. M'Culloch has kindly
furnished me with what I now lay before the Public.

...:lW

iSjllll.

yv--y >^v>: .. ^^^ ^. x-^l^

^^^iWJM^UM^

GEOLOGICAL MEMORANDA.

The following is a catalogue of the specimens which were subjected
to my examination by Captain Ross. They appear to have been
collected without care, and with no attention to their relative situa-
tions ; the greater number, indeed, being casual fragments, or pebbles
picked up on the shore. No direct observations were recorded, for
the purpose of throwing light on them ; either respecting the forms of
the land, or the appearances of stratification, or otherwise, so often
visible, even at a distance, on the sea coasts. The little additional
illustration which they admit, was furnished by Captain Ross's obser-
vations, made with other views, and by some of his very characteristic
drawings of the land. I have to regret that I had no means of adding
any thing to render this very meagre list more interesting, without
indulging in unwarrantable conjectures.

\''Sm

The detached situation of the only three spots, of which the exami-
nation is at all tolerable, namely, Waygatt Isle and the adjacent shore,
Prince Regent's Bay, and Possession Bay, is such as to prevent any
general conclusion respecting the structure of this extensive region.
If it were justifiable to draw such a conclusion from the characters of

II *

111

Ixx

APPENDIX, No. III.

those tracts, it might be supposed that the whole country in the
interior consisted of granite and gneiss; or, at least, that these were
the prevailing rocks. It is at the same time evident, that some of
the shores are skirted by secondary strata, of which the proof is to
be found, not only in the nature of the rocks described, but in the
appended list of soundings, which, in some instances, prove the
existence of secondary limestone. It is impossible to pass from the
subject, however, without pointing out a remarkable circumstance;
namely, that in three out of the four places of this extensive bay that
were examined, there are indications of a trap formation. It would
be a singular chance, if this should exist only in those three spots;
and on any calculation of probabilities, it is likely that the trap rocks
will be found to form a very characteristic feature on the shores of
Baffin's Bay, should future navigators have time to investigate them.
As these are among the most limited and partial of the several classes
of rock, their occurrence here through so extensive a range, should
it prove to be the fact, could not fail to be considered an interesting
circumstance.

i I

■ ■ .

CATALOGUE OF THE SPECIMENS

ROCKS AND MINERALS,

BROUGHT BY

CAPTAIN ROSS FROM DAVIS' STRAIT AND BAFFIN'S BAY.

SPECIMENS FOUND ON AN ICEBERG,
In hat. 68° 22', Long. 53° 47' W.

Several varieties of granite and gneiss.

These present the most ordinary characters, and require no notice
as specimens.
Basalt.

The iceberg from which these specimens were brought, was met
with on the east coast of Davis' Strait. It is uncertain, of course,
whether it was formed on the nearest shore to the actual position of
the ship; and it cannot, therefore, indicate any thing respecting the
nature of the country, which, by Captain Ross's account, presented
a rocky shore, skirted by islands, rising in the interior into high
mountains.

'fif^ZM

■Hv

i *

li.

lxxii

APPENDIX, No. III.

SPECIMENS FROM WAYGATT ISLAND,

Lat. 70° 26' N„ Long. 54° 40' to 55° fF;

" - , .

Granite of different aspects.

Gneiss, also of different aspects ; some of them, like those mentioned

in the former article, containing green compact felspar

Quartz rock.

Graywacke schist.

Gray earthy amygdaloids, containing nadelstein, and brown spar;
the latter crystallized, and of a dark and red brown colour: the
cavities are also frequently empty.

Brown clay stone. '

Siliceous iron stone.

Common argillaceous iron stone.

Red iron clay.

Semi-opal.

Chalcedony, in laminae, apparently formed in the fissures of a rock ;
and also in crusts with a botryoidal surface.

Cacholong and chalcedony interlaminated, and resembling the
specimens brought from Faroe and Iceland.

Geodes of chalcedony, with crystals of quartz in the interior.

Nadelstein, apparently washed out of amygdaloidal trap.

Wood coal, resembling that found under the trap rocks in the
Western islands of Scotland.

A flint, of the same nature as those found in the London gravel.

Quartz, apparently from veins.

< S m\ ■^■^'7 ■ *T

H2H

W:m^^^^B^^SlS^B^^^J)^f:^Jt^ 35«S2«fe-5s

&&'

APPENDIX, No. III.

lxxiii

".' !i !

From these specimens, a tolerable conjecture may be formed of the
general structure of this island; some assistance having been also
derived from an accurate drawing of the north-east shore, made by
Captain Ross; from which the relative space occupied by the trap
rocks above indicated, seems capable of being determined.

The general outline of the interior, and of a considerable proportion
of the north and east coasts, bespeak the existence of primary rocks;
the hills rising to an average height of one thousand feet, and present-
ing acute summits, declining by sharp prolonged ridges.

Since the specimens of granite possess the character of that substance
as it is found forming mountain masses, it is probable that this rock
forms a portion at least of the country. The gneiss may be expected
to constitute a much larger part, as far as a judgment can be formed
from the characters of the hills as they are represented in the drawing.
Both the quartz. rock and the graywacke schist have the characters of
these substances as they are found alternating with gneiss on the
north-west coast of Scotland; but no further conjectures can be
formed respecting their actual position.

Captain Ross informs me, that the specimens of chalcedony were
found on the side of a mountain of about five hundred feet in eleva-
tion ; that the rocks are naked and vertical, and appear like the ruins
of buildings. On consulting his drawing, of which the details are
very characteristic, it is apparent that there is a ridge of hills of the
trap formation, skirting the shore for a space of about four miles, and
interrupted in two places. This ridge rises to about half the general
elevation of the island, and presents the vertical prismatic fracture at
the summit, accompanied by the usual rapid slope below. The speci-

!! I

i4$ I

'Ml

Ml'!

H *

!>«

lxxiv

APPENDIX, No. Ill,

mens of claystone and amygdaloid, as well as the chalcedonies and
nadelstein, are evidently derived from this mass of rock.

No specimens of secondary rocks were contained in this parcel, but
the iron stones are similar to those found in the strata which in England
accompany coal, and they indicate the probable existence of a body
of secondary strata subjacent to the trap.

Of the origin of the flint, 1 cannot pretend to offer any conjecture.
It would have been interesting to have traced it to its native rock, as
it does not appear that any gravel, analagous to that which in this
country contains these flints, is found in this island. Should such
flints be found an inmate of the trap rocks, it would throw light on a
very interesting and difficult question in geology.

The wood coal is an interesting specimen. The structure resembles
that of oak, and it is obviously part of a tree of considerable size ; a
circumstance of some curiosity in a spot where no tree now grows, or
ever could have grown in the actual state of the climate. It presents
a difficulty analagous to that of the surturbrand of Iceland.

SPECIMENS FROM FOUR ISLAND POINT,

Lat. 70° 46', Long. 53° 3'.

Granite.

Different varieties of gneiss. One of the most remarkable of these
consists of the most ordinary ingredients, with the addition of green
compact felspar.

Hornblende schist.

r tii

rfc'Y'BfrtHi * +~~s v "^.^-aAffliMB — ^— 1

^4>«wg^yJ^rA'^wwB^>i^f ^:.

APPENDIX, No. III.

Actinolite schist.

Argillaceous schists, varying between clayslate and graywacke.

A coarse grey sandstone, belonging apparently to the secondary
strata.

A very compact fine-grained basalt.

Greenstone.

Earthy amygdaloids, of a yellowish brown and of a reddish colour;
containing chalcedony, quartz, calcareous spar, and a yellowish
chlorite, apparently in a state of decomposition.

An amygdaloid with a basis of black pitchstone, containing iron clay.

Chalcedonic nodules.

Pale grey chert.

Nodules of chalcedony.

Nodules of radiating arragonite.

Fibrous calcareous spar.

Mesotype.

Felspar, apparently from gneiss.

Quartz, apparently from veins.

Lieutenant Robertson informs me, that he here saw columns resem-
bling those of Arthur's Seat, resting on a thick bed of clay as bright
as vermilion. Captain Ross not having been on shore, no other
observation accompanies these specimens, which, like almost all the
rest in this list, consist of casual fragments, collected at hazard.

From the granite, the gneiss, the hornblende schist, the argillaceous
schist, and the sandstone, it may be concluded that this part of the
country presents examples both of the primary and the secondary
rocks ; and, from the aspect of the land, it is probable that the former

k 2

-Mi

L4I

XXVI

APPENDIX, No. III.

Ill

■ ■

are succeeded by a tract of the latter strata skirting the shore. The
vermilion clay of Lieutenant Robertson is obviously the common iron
clay which accompanies the trap rocks; the colour of which, when
contrasted with the darkness of the surrounding substances, is suffi-
ciently bright to justify this hyperbolical term. It is probable that
the basalt is derived from these columns ; the amygdaloids must be
conceived to appertain to other parts of this deposit of trap, which is
undoubtedly connected with the secondary sandstone described above.
The chert is probably connected with the trap rocks. It is not
unusual to find it accompanying the argillaceous limestones, where
these are traversed by large veins, or overwhelmed by masses of that
rock.

The pitchstone amygdaloid presents a variety of which I have never
seen a parallel example. To describe its basis accurately, it may be
compared to that of the Scuir of Egg; adding only, that it occupies a
station still nearer to true pitchstone; appearing to be as nearly inter-
mediate between that substance and the rock in question, as this is
between pitchstone and basalt. It is an interesting circumstance, as
adding one more to the numerous analogies already existing between
those rocks.

The other specimens require no particular notice; but it may be
remarked, that there is a general resemblance between all the rocks
and minerals collected in this spot, and those brought from Waygatt's
Island. As the distance between the two places is not above twenty
miles, it may be imagined that the trap in both are parts of a common
formation; and it is not unlikely, that the same general characters will
be found to prevail to a greater extent along this coast.

* ,"-* \ ^aK<?'> £ r-i

— ruif it

jlr^^J*^*«^iI^

APPENDIX, No. III.

xvn

■ .

- , i . , ;

I'll 11

SPECIMENS FROM THE THREE ISLANDS OF BAFFIN,

Lat. 74° l', Long. 51° lb'

Gneiss, abounding in garnets, and containing molybdena.

Massive brown garnet, breaking with flat faces parallel to those of
a crystal, and of a pseudo-metallic lustre ; it contains attached and
imbedded crystals of brown hexagonal mica.

The gneiss is very remarkable for the large quantity of garnets it
contains. These are often of a large size, and are invariably of a
pale crimson colour, and transparent: they are all so much fissured as
to be of no value ; but it must be remarked, that no specimens of
fresh rock were brought, the whole of them on the contrary being
nearly rotten. This gneiss appears to split into thin and flat slates;
but whether that, also, is not the consequence of decomposition, cannot
be ascertained from the state of the specimens. The existence of
molybdena in this form is, I believe, a fact hitherto unobserved : it is
in minute scales, dispersed all through the rock so as to form an
integrant part of the mass.

SPECIMENS FROM CAPE MELVILLE.

..-■■.
I

It might be presumed from the appearance of these specimens, that
this Cape is a mass of granite, traversed by veins of porphyry; but

Granite.
Porphyry.

Ill

i,i; H

Ml IIS

lxxviii

APPENDIX, No. III.

the drawing seems to indicate stratification, from which it would be
more natural to conclude that it consists of gneiss. The granite, how-
ever, does not appear to have been derived from veins. It is of little
use to make conjectures on this subject.

■ ■

SPECIMENS FROM BUSHNAN'S ISLE,
Lat. 76° 04', Lons. 65° Qf)' W

Granite.

Gneiss

Micaceous schist.

Claystone.

Amygdaloidal claystone.

SPECIMENS FROM CAPE YORK,

IE NATIVES BY THE NAME 01

Lat. 76°, Long. 66° 46' W.

KNOWN TO THE NATIVES BY THE NAME OF INMALLICK,

A porphyritic greenstone. This is the substance used by the natives
in cutting off their iron from the masses.

t ," -m \ fi^*?\ i

- —

••- v "^ »

bgS£^£»>3Q)S3B9mraS^

.s£B2>

APPENDIX, No. Ill,

lxxix

SPECIMENS FROM THE COAST BETWEEN CAPE YORK AND
CAPE DUDLEY DIGGES,

Lat.from 75° 45' to 76° 10', Long. from 67° to 68° 40'.

The specimens from this coast, which includes the Crimson Cliffs,
resemble those from Bushnan's Isle so precisely that it is unnecessary
to enumerate them.

The tract of country from which the four parcels of specimens
immediately preceding were brought, occupies a space on the shore of
about sixty miles. The general characters of the land may be col-
lected from the various drawings engraved for the journal of the
voyage, and from the chart of Prince Regent's Bay. From both
sources of information, imperfect as they are, it may be concluded
that the country in general is of primary formation. From the forms
of the mountains in the interior, it is probable they consist of granite;
but, even on this, there can be no conclusion drawn, as gneiss is found
to assume forms equally rugged and acute. The cliffs, however, near
the shore, present characters which can scarcely belong to that rock ;
and it is, therefore, probable that they consist of gneiss, which seems
to be the prevailing substance in those parts of Baffin's Bay actually
examined by Captain Ross.

On considering the claystone of Bushnan's Island, and the green-
stone of Cape York, it is apparent that here also, as at Way gait's
Island and Four Island Point, there is a trap formation; but it is
impossible to conjecture the extent of it, as there are no observations

,/ljM'

f.!..!'':

lit

ijiii.

lxxx

APPENDIX, No. III.

accompanying these specimens, and the drawings of the coast have
been taken from too great a distance to allow of any judgment being
formed respecting the nature of the rocks.

- ,

SPECIMENS from POSSESSION BAY and CAPE BYAM MARTIN,

I
Lot. 73° 33' Long;. 77° 28'.

Granite of various aspects; some specimens containing garnets.
Gneiss of different kinds, some specimens containing pyrites, others
garnets, and others again, green compact felspar.
Quartz rock.
Red sandstone.
Red shale.

Grey calcareous sandstone.
Grey argillaceous limestone.
Jasper.

Siliceous schist.
Chert.

Purplish and ochre-coloured amygdaloidal claystone.
Black basaltic porphyry.
Grey hard claystone porphyry.
Coloured agates.
Quartz, with imbedded garnets.
Felspar, with the same.

The greater number of these specimens consisted of rolled stones,
gathered in the bed of a river, on a shingly beach, which is found near

t,K-*\ i^^ — ?-n

■ «"> i T-V TVti

-^£i

2&®K«&®Kto£y8i?-*s s«er3£ £££&«£ &

APPENDIX, No. III.

Ixxxi

the sea, at the foot of the cliffs. The mountains in the interior are
very lofty, but no other information of a geological nature can be
collected from the officers who landed in this place : the specimens,
nevertheless, indicate a more complete series of rocks in this
place, than in any of those examined during the expedition. There
can be no doubt, from the shape of the land, as represented in the
drawings, that the primary rocks occupy the high mountains in the
interior, and reach also to the shore near Possession Mount. It is not
so easy to conjecture the position of the secondary rocks, of which no
decided indications appear in the external form of the land : the series
of these is, however, very perfect, extending from the red sandstone
upwards, and finally covered, to all appearance, by a formation of trap.
The jasper, the siliceous schist, and the chert, resemble exactly those
specimens which are found in the Island of Sky, among the beds of
shale, sandstone, and limestone, when these are immediately in con-
tact with the larger masses of trap ; and, probably, they here also owe
their origin to the same cause.

The quartz and the felspar, containing garnets, are probably derived
from veins of gneiss, where similar appearances are not uncommon.
The agates must be referred to the trap.

With respect to the gneiss, which contains green compact felspar,
and which appears to be of common occurrence on this coast, it may
be remarked, that it is exactly similar to that which occurs abundantly
in the Western isles, and more particularly on the Western coast of
Ross-shire, prevailing particularly about Loch Ew and Loch Greinord.

Ill

1*5

■ I

jg III:

IXXX11

Granite.

APPENDIX, No. III.

SPECIMENS FROM AGNES MONUMENT,

Lot. 70° 37' W, Lowg. 67° 30' W.

■

Gneiss.
Graywaeke schist.

■ -

•

'■ f i ■■-.-. -

- ■ ■

■ '

111

1 1

■

,» -

-*+,-—: v*-iv >:^^ r -^;. ^ ^-. . ^.^ v

>s%r+ > ^^**sa£«&@£sffl£V£^

APPENDIX, No, III.

Ixxxiii

n il

TABLE of SOUNDINGS obtained in Davis'

Strait and Baffin's Bay.

Date

Latitude

Longitude
W.

Depth of

"Water

Nearest Land seen

True
Bearing

Dis-
tance in
Miles

Nature of the Soundings and Remarks.

O 1 II

O / II

Fathoms

June 3

65 35

54 16

Cocquin's Sound

E. byS.

Broken shells, (land high.)

65 42

54 50

Cocquin's Sound

White coral and greenish mud.

65 41

54 15

Cocquin's Sound

White coral and shells.

65 37

300

Queen Ann Cape

E.byN.

Mud, (no land in sight.)

Disco Island

Sand and shells, at midnight, (land
rocky and high.)

8
9

60
34

Savage Islands

f Outermost "\
\ N. Bay Isles. /

E.S.E.

No ground.

SaDd, (at an iceberg aground near
islauds.)

63 22 15

53 45

100"

Whale Fish Island

No ground, (close to the S. entrance
of the harbour.)

70 27 15

54 51

Waygatt Isle

S.W.

Stones, (at an iceberg aground.)

23
24

70 44
70 44

26 to 16

Four Island Point

58'EastofFour)
t Islaud Point j

20' N.
E.

2 to 1

Stones, (ship drifted from 26 to 15fms.

Rocky, (ship was driven in 16 feet,
50 yards from the shore.)

70 45

54 22

f Land North >
I East Bay 3

, f

Rocky, (land in Jacob's or N.E. Bay
on the S. side.)

70 50

54 25

160

In North East Bay
Ditto Ditto

Mud, (midnight, near the middle.)
No ground, (ship higher up the Bay.)

70 54

54 00

200

July 3

71 30

56 02

120

Black Hook

No ground, (near laud deep.)

71 33

56 40

Black Hook

E. by S.

Mud, (water deep near the shore.)

73 10

100

Opporniwick

No ground, (water deep near the land)

73 12

Ditto

No ground, ( ditto ditto )

Sand and gravel, (a bank 15 leagues
from the land.)

74 03

53 59

Three I. of Baffin

74 03

57 33

180

Within Three I.

Mud, (water deepest in the bay, in-
side of three isles.)

74 31

58 40

Three Isles

E byS.

Sand, (bank.)

74 40

57 40

160

Ditto

E.S.E.

No ground, (inside of the bank.)

74 43

59 00

330

Devil's Thumb

Mud, (inside of the bank.)

74 50

59 13

230

Horse's Head

E.N.E.

Mud, (iuside the bank.)

74 50

59 40

220

Red Head

N.E.byE.

Mud and stones, granite and gneiss.

75 25

60 36

356

Ditto

E.N.E.

Mud, (water deepest near the land,
and the mud softer.)

75 26

75 27
75 27

60 32
60 39
60 45

356

270
185

Sabine Isle
Ditto
Ditto

E. by N.

E.
E. § S.

6
10
12

Ml,d> 1 The ship drifted with the ice,
jyj , 1 and the water became
' ( shoaler as she increased the
Mud J distance from the land.

v#-7M

Ixxxiv

APPENDIX, No. III.

TABLE of SOUNDINGS obtained in Baffin's Bay.

Latitude

Longitude
W.

Depth of
Water

Nearest Land seen

True
Bearing

Dis-
tance in
Miles

Nature of the Soundings and Remarks

July 27
31

Aug. 2

4
8

11
13

»{

■ . ■ ■
20
21

24|

25
26

75 28
75 33
75 34

75 51 35

75 58 26
75 54 56

75 54 58

75 53 00

75 54 15

75 56 48 to

75 54 24

75 54
to 76 12

76 18
.76 28 28

76 35

76 54

76 46 16

76 32 46

76 32 45

76 36 51

76 15 05 1(
76 36 0

76 10 0

76 04 0

75 40

75 27 0
74 58 21

o ' '/

60 30

.
-,

61 22

61 20

62 59 41

64 37 21

65 32 20

65 22 21
65 4 0
65 52 0

66 24 fo"

67 15

67 15 to\
69 55 J

72 00

73 19 42

74 00

74 21

75 21 42

76 54 48

77 04 6

77 04

| 78 30 |

78 30
78 28

77 08

77 51 |

78 01 26 {

Fathoms
314

i
380

400

420

250
101

100

150

455

40 to 57

35 to 70

360
350

295

192

240
110
100

81 tol01"\
&200 j

57 to 95

50 to 76

65 to 100

1 80 to 2401
& 208 J

180 to 2021
&245 j

f Melville's "\
l_ Monument. J

Thorn's Isle.
Ditto.

Cape Morris.

Cape Melville.
Cape Melville.

Bushnan's Isle

Ditto

Pr. Regent's Bay

Off Cape York.

Crimson Cliffs.

Cary's Islands.
Dkto
Ditto

Cape Saumarez.

Off Cape Clarence

Off Jones' Sound

Ditto

Cape Lindsay

Off Cape Leopold

E.N.E.
E.
E.

N.E.

N.E.
E. by S.

E.N.E.

E.S.E.

E. to N.

S.E.

N.W.byN.

N.E.

N.W.

N.N.W.

OffCapeCockburn
Ditto

Cape Cunningham
Ditto

W.
N.W.

N.N.W.

Mud, (Melville Bay.)

3 /

10-

12
15

4to5

Mud and one stone granite, (water
deepest near the laud.)

Mud and stone, (water deepest near
the laud.)

Soft mud, (at temp. 29| when brought
up.)

Soft mud and stones.

Mud and small stones, (land high.)

Mud and saud, (outside of Prince
Regent's Bay.)

Gravel.

Very soft mud, (deep water in the
Bay.)

Mud, stones, and shells, at each cast
near and off the Cape, ou a bank
or reef.

Stones and shells — Continuation of
the reef, on which were many
icebergs.

Mud.

30 <

30
20
10

12
12
14

Grey mud and chocolate clay and
worms, with saud, (this was the
furthest north,)

Mud.

Stones and broken shells.

Stones and shells, (edge of a bank.)

Gravel, (edge of a bank.)

Gravel, and above lofa. mud, (bank.)

Same bank,
Ditto
Ditto

Sand, shells, gravel!
> coral, and above 100
fa. mud.

Mud and stones.
Mud and stones.

■f.A--. s , / -^ >. ^.^^^i^jMna^KjeM^^^aMat^JiMM^ >->.^^

II il

il!

•i

■ 1 1

lxxxvi

APPENDIX, No. III.

TABLE of SOUNDINGS obtained

in Baffin's Bay — (continued.)

Date

Latitude

Lougitude
W.

Depth of
Water

Nearest Land seen

True
Bearing

Dis-
tance in
Miles.

Nature of the Soundings aud Remarks.

Sept. 23

28
29
30

O ' //
67 00

65 54

65 05
65 54
64 10

Q 1 II

57 46 15
54 35 00

60 42 00

61 11
63 05

Fathoms
290

370

156
100

650

Mount Raleigh

(

Mud.

Yellowish brown clay, with very fine
sand.

Stones.

Rocky.

Stones.

Fragments, scarcely rounded, of
gneiss, and hornblende schist ;
with calcareous brown clay
containing serpuke, corallines,
shrimps, and fragments of shells.

Resolution

s.w.

•i

,- •

i'ji

.^r^- v , >-^* ^.^-> ,r^-

—

^ flH «

I /^^j£«*«^eg3s^

CRIMSON-COLOURED SNOW,

AND

METEORIC IRON.

:'! i

For the following information, respecting two of the most interest-
ing subjects in natural history which were observed in the voyage of
which the narrative has preceded, I am indebted to the kindness of
Dr. Wollaston. Of the accuracy and the extent of his knowledge it
does not become me to speak, as they have long acquired for him a
reputation, to which even the praise of those who are accomplished
judges of his acquirements can add nothing. I shall make no apology
for giving in his own words, that which could in no other way be so
well communicated.

" With respect to the exact origin of that substance which gives red-
" ness to the snow, I apprehend we may not be able to give a decided
" opinion, for want of a sufficient knowledge of the productions of
" those regions in which it was found; but, from all the circumstances
" of its appearance, and of the substances which accompany it, I am
" strongly inclined to think it to be of vegetable origin. The red
" matter itself consists of minute globules from f0100 to ao\0 of an
" inch in diameter; I believe their coat to be colourless, and that the
" redness belongs wholly to the contents, which seem to be of an

Ixxxviii

APPENDIX, No. III.

■ IP"

lllll

■ -

oily nature and not soluble in water, but soluble in rectified spirits
of wine ; when the globules are highly magnified, and seen with
sufficient light, they appear internally subdivided into about 8 or 10
cells. They bear to be dried by the heat of boiling water, without
loss of colour. By destructive distillation, they yield a foetid oil,
accompanied with ammonia, which might lead to the supposition
that they are of animal origin; but, since the seeds of various
plants also yield this product, and since the leaves of Fuci also
yield ammonia by distillation, I do not discover any thing in the
globules themselves which shews distinctly from what source they
were derived. I find, however, along with them, a small portion of
a cellular substance, which not only has these globules adherent to its
surface, but also contained in its interior; and this substance, which
I must therefore consider as of the same origin with them, appears
by its mode of burning to be decidedly vegetable, as I know of no
animal substance which so instantly burns away to a white ash, as
soon as it is heated to redness.

" The first conception I formed as to their nature was, that they
might be the spawn of a minute species of shrimp, which is known to
abound in those seas, and which might be devoured by the myriads
of water-fowl observed there, and voided with their dung; but, in that
case, they should undoubtedly be found mixed with the exuvise of
those animals, which is not the fact; but they are found accompanied
solely by vegetable substances, in one of which they are actually
contained.

" If they are from the sea, there seems no limit to the quantity that
may be carried to land, by a continued and violent wind ; no limit
to the period during which they may have accumulated, since they

, >-^- ,..,.-. ,r —■■■.. ,■■-.: ^^

■

*y rsrr

m i s ! ^^m^^^^is^}:^n^s^^^m^^ *s&&& &

APPENDIX, No. III.

lxxxix

" would remain from year to year, undiminished by the processes of
** thawing and evaporation, which remove the snow with which they
" are mixed.

" I regret that the scantiness of our information does not enable us
" to come to any satisfactory conclusion, and can only hope that
" future navigators may have an opportunity of collecting materials
" to elucidate so curious a phenomenon."

IRON, found in Lat. 76° 12' N., Long. 53° W.

" With respect to the iron, of which you obligingly gave me a
specimen, it appears to diifer in no respect from those masses of
which so many have now been found on various parts of the surface
of the earth ; and which, in some few instances from tradition, and
in all from the analysis, appear to be of meteoric origin. They all
contain nickel, and this contains about the usual proportion of that
metal, which I estimate between three and four per cent., as inferred
from the quantity of crystallized sulphate of nickel which I obtained
from it; but, though I can thus speak with decision as to the
presence of a considerable quantity of nickel, I cannot undertake to
pronounce with accuracy upon proportions deduced from so small a

fragment as could be spared for this examination."

. - . . ... .

hi;, ji

■

: m\ S,m--' fr'ii'i r 'II ii-

fh£r&^^^*«^^ asaKsis.s

LATITUDES AND LONGITUDES OF PLACES.

Latitude,

o '

Adair, Cape 71 24

Agnes Monument — Rock • 70 37

Agnew, Cape 71 24

Alexander, Cape • 77 43

Bank • 69 9

Allison Bay 74 40

Antrobus, Cape 71 57

Arabella Rock 76 35

Ardrossan Bay j 70 37

Aston, Cape 70 10

Athol, Cape 76 23

Baffin's Islands 74 41

Banks' Bay 74 46

Barnard's Mountains 75 55

Barrow's Bay 73 40

Bathurst Bay . , 73 33

Beatrice, Cape 74 32

Bell's Isle .-. 71 27

Beverly Cliffs 75 40

m 2

Longi

tude.

69 41

i ■ - •'!
N I

ril

Gaff

HfM

i >»

xc" APPENDIX.

Latitude.

Bisson, Cape gg jq

Black Hook, Cape 71 27

Booth's Sound jq 49

Borthwick 65 54

Bowen, Cape , 72 25

Brodie Bay 68 00

Broughton, Cape qj 47

Browne's Islands 75 29

Bruce Bay 70 28

Bushnan's Isle # 75 04

Bute Island 70 26

Byam Martin, Cape _ , 73 33

Caledon, Cape 75 jg

Campbell, Cape 54 Qg

Cargenholme, Cape 71 32

Carey's Islands 7^ 49

Catherine's Bay 73 30

Charlotte, Cape , 74 32

Charles' Island ..*...... g3 qq

Chidley, Cape g8 37

Christian, Cape 70 35

Clarence, Cape 76 45

Clephane, Cape g5 54

Clyde, River 70 21

Cobourg Bay 75 35

Cockburn, Cape 74 49

Longitude.

r. ■ ■ *i — ■■■ rr^^iM

—

%&&&%

APPENDIX.

Latitude,

o '

Coquin Sound 53 00

Coutts, Cape 72 00

Inlet 71 58

Cranstown, Cape , 71 15

Crimson Cliffs, (Beverly) ■. ... 76 00

Croker's Mountains , . 74 08

Cumberland Strait , .

Cunningham, Cape 74 40

Dacre's Cape 65 36

Dalrymple Rock , . 76 28

Darkhead, Cape 72 10

Desolation, Cape

Devil's Thumb , 74 16

Disco, N. End 70 12

S. End 69 11

Duck Islands 68 49

Dudley Digges, Cape , 76 05

Duneira Bay 75 27

Durham, Cape , 65 59

Dyer's Cape 66 42

Edward's Bay 76 33

Eglinton, Cape 70 49

Elizabeth's Bay 73 30

Enderby, Cape 63 45

Exeter Bay... 66 30

xcm

Longitude.

o '

65 38

74 10

74 12

54 20

68 00

84 00

76 02

! :,\

ih; ili

„h:

. '■

fit

1 ;i

\ I

xriv APPENDIX.

Latitude.

O I

Fanshawe, Cape 73 40

Four-Island Point 70 46

Frances, Cape ,....„ 76 28

Fry, Cape 65 06

Gilbert Sound 67 42

Graham Moore, Cape 72 54

Hackluit Island

Haig's Island , 70 29

Hamilton's Bay 71 25

Hardwicke Cape . ., , 75 30

Hathorn, Cape 71 39

Hay, Cape 73 35

Hope's Monument 72 26

Hewell, Cape 70 27

Hingston Bay 73 48

Hoare Bay 65 18

Home Bay... 68 40

Hooper, Cape 68 06

Hoppner, Cape 76 56

Horse's Head 74 49

Horsburgh, Cape 74 35

Hurd, Cape 77 49

Hynd's Bay 66 33

Longitude.

o •

76 06

53 03

70 25

63 25

* ■ *-1

*aFt^j/^^£^*^^r^§^

'S^KMe^-*'

APPENDIX.

Latitude.

Inglis Bay 65 47

Inmallick 76 o

Iron Mountains 76 10

Isabella, Cape * 77 48

Isabella's Bank 69 30

Jacob's Bay, (or N.E. Bay) 71 00

Jameson, Cape 71 45

Jones's Sound 76 20

Kater, Cape go, 39

Lady Ann Bay 75 54

Lancaster Sound 74 19

Lawson, Cape 71 45

Leifle Bay, (or Love Bay, or God Haaven) 69 10

Leopold, Cape 75 40

Lewis, Cape .-. 75 31

Lindsay, Cape 76 06

Loch Ryan 65 06

Mackintosh, Cape „......, 67 qq

Martin Mountains 73 25

Mary Ann Island 71 25

M'Culloch, Cape 72 13

M'Douall, Cape 71 24

M'Leay, Cape 70 15

xcv

Longitude.

0 1

61 50

65 15

1,1.

Hi; I t

IliH'I

■r>%f*~z*4r--

*» 1

u«

a^t

""— ^k_- ^

xcvi

APPENDIX.

Latitude.

Longitude.

,» 11

«!

•1

Meikleham, Cape . . , 65 18 62 50

Melville Bay Lat. 76° 5' to 75° 12'; Long. 60° to 64°

Melville, Cape 76 05 64° 30'

Melville's Monument .... , 75 33 59 jg

Merchants' Bay 67 38 64 00

Miller's Island 65 12 63 18

Morris, Cape 76 09 62 08

Mouat, Cape 77 29 78 00

Murdoch, Cape 76 08 61 28

Nius, Cape 63 38 65 48

North Ayr 70 00 72 00

North Bay Islands 68 19 53 47

North Galloway 71 00 73 00

Operniwick 73 25 57 26

Osborne, Cape 74 24 81 42

Paget, Cape 70 10 75 55

Parry, Cape 77 06 71 23

Petowack 76 11 69 00

Possession Bay 73 33 77 28

Pond's Bay 72 38 75 00

Prince Regent's Bay ; Lat. 76° 10' to 75° 45' Long. 64° 60' to 66 40

Prince William's Land 72 30 73 00

Princess Charlotte's Monument 75 36 78 28

APPENDIX.

Latitude.

o /

Queen Ann's Cape qq 24

Raleigh Mount q\ 14

Red Head 74 55

Reid's Bay 66 48

Robertson, Cape 77 24

Raper, Cape gg 54

Rosamond, Cape 74 ] q

Sabine Islands 75 29

Salmon Islands 70 n

Savage Islands, (or Wild Islands) 67 44

Saumarez, Cape 77 39

Saunderson's Tower ...» 54 50

Sowallick (or Iron) Mountains 76 10

Scott's Bay 71 1 q

Shackleton, Cape 73 35

Sheffield Bay k 65 30

Siddon, Cape 75 17

Skene's Island <jq 97

Smith's Sound 77 55

South East Bay go 0o

Stair, Cape 77 43

St. Clair, Cape , g4 15

Suffkowallick , , , 7$ 00

Sugar- Loaf Island 74 02

xcvn

Long

itude

■;.\itt

ill tl I

ii!E j

! kl

D*3

xcvm APPENDIX.

Latitude.

O /

Thom Islands 75 40

Three Islands (of Baffin) 74 01

Unknown Island 71 00

Walker, Cape „ 75 46

Walsingham, Cape 66 00

Walter Bathurst, Cape 73 03

Warrender, Cape 74 1 9

Waygatt Island, (N.E. side) 70 24

Strait (N. entrance) 70 26

Whale Islands , 68 57

Whale Sound 77 15

White, Cape 76 35

Wilcox Point 74 10

Wollaston Island 69 25

Wolstenholme Island 76 24

Wolstenholme Sound 76 29

Women's Islands 72 45

York, Cape 75 55

Longitude,

o /

60 00

57 25

53 45

59 54

60 50
76 22
32 30

53 30

71 20

70 36

57 45

65 20

70 22

70 00

56 40

65 38

Ij'l

MMMhuw*MMrtmj*Mi:

An Account of the Going of the Chronometers which were
embarked on board H. M. S. Isabella and Alexander,
during a Voyage of Discovery to the Arctic Regions, 1818.

On the 14th of April, 1818, seven chronometers were embarked on
board H. M. S. Isabella, for the purpose of determining her longitude
at sea, of which the following is an account : —

Earnshaw's, No. 815

„ 369
„ 2,151

Furnished by the Admiralty.

Arnold's

Ditto

Earnshaw's „ 1,024 The property of Captain Ross.

Arnold ,, 25 The property of Henry Browne, Esq.

Ditto ,, 523 Under charge of Captain Sabine.

Parkinson &"

Frodsham

228 Sent on board by the makers.

The five box chronometers were suspended by steel spiral springs
from a fore and aft piece fixed to the beams in the cabin. This in-
vention was intended to take off the effect of shocks which the ship
might receive among the ice ; and a piece of baize, in the form of a
wrapper long enough to reach the deck, was attached to each of the
springs, and which being tied round the box, and left loose to trail on

!ti:

<!/ i,

! !

1 1 J

,!'

sgt^^^^^2

-Liik

TR&pwmzfirWiw^m

II*

ill'
in

nil

c APPENDIX.

the cabin-floor, counteracted the momentum, occasioned by the ship's
motion.

The rates of the two box chronometers, belonging to the Admiralty,
were obtained by Henry Browne, Esq., after a trial of two months,
with his excellent clock ; but No. 25 and 523 of Arnold, had not the
advantage of being tried for so long a period. No. 1 ,024 of Earnshaw,
was in the hands of the maker three months to obtain its rate.

No. 228 of Messrs. Parkinson and Frodsham, was sent by its maker
to Mr. Browne's, about a fortnight before its embarkation, subject to
the following remark :— " That it might be expected to accelerate from
4 to 10 on the first three or four months ; but this propensity once dis-
posed of, its rate would suffer no material alteration. No. 2,151 had
only been tried a few days. The charge of winding up these chrono-
meters was intrusted to Captain Sabine ; and the sentinel at the
cabin-door had orders to call him for that purpose at 9 o'clock ; and
this sentinel could not be relieved by the next, at noon, unless he could
report that the chronometers were wound up, (or said to be so) by
Captain Sabine. A few days, however, after we had sailed, 2,151 was
unfortunately forgotten to be wound up ; and as No. 523, which was
worn in Captain Sabine's pocket, altered very much by the effect of
heat and cold, it was rejected by me in the calculations for longitude ;
and No. 2,151 having met with an additional accident in falling out of
my hands, was also rejected for the voyage, and the watches were

made use of for observing.

On the 14th of April, the corrections to mean time at Greenwich

■ ■! * ■ I

APPENDIX.

for the five box chronometers from which the longitude is laid down,
were as follows : —

J\o. 815 fast 0 58 7 gaining 0 54 daily

„ 369 „ 7 51 7 35

„ 228 „ 0 45 3

„ 1,024 „ 0 59

25 „ 51 „ 2

Nos. 2,151 and 523 are left out, as they were not used in my cal-
culations.

On the 1st of May, by observations taken at Gardie-house, on the
Island ofBrassa, in Shetland, its longitude was determined as follows:—

By No.

815

1 15 48

West

369

1 09 50

228

1 33 34

,024

1 16 22

1 13 45

1 15 52

West

Means

being only 22' further west than my observations in 1814; and allowing
Nos, 228 and 25 to balance each other, I take 1° 15' to be the longi-
tude of Gardie-house.

On the 13th of May, the longitude was determined by lunar obser-
vation, and was found to be —

11*

> 1

lit

APPENDIX.

Longitude, by means of five distances of the Sun o t u

and Moon, taken by Captain Ross 21 08 30 W.

„ By means of five box chronometers. ... 21 8 15 W.

Diff.

On the 14th May,

Longitude, by means of three distances of the Sun 0 t

and Moon, taken by Captain Ross . . £3 02 0
,, By means of five box chronometers ... . 23 01 22|

Diff. 37|

On the 27th May,

Longitude, by means of five distances of the Sun and 0 f u

Moon 52 10 00

Longitude, by means of five chronometers 52 12 00

Diff.

1 00

On the 9th of June, the Isabella and Alexander being moored to an
iceberg off North Bay Islands, on the east side of Davis' Strait, the
outermost island bore W. by S. three miles distant, and the nearest
S. by W. 1| mile by compass. The latitude by observation was de-
termined to be 68° 22' 35" North.

Longitude, by means of ten observations, taken by 0 , „

Captain Ross on the iceberg 53 47 53 W.

iiiHi

-J-±

» ^^masms^m^msfm^mrm^m^^

Longitude, by means of observations, taken by Lieut.

Parry on the iceberg 53 42 00

Longitude, by means of all the officers of both ships . . 53 45 1 1

The longitude, by the means of the chronometers, did not materially
differ from that obtained by so many lunar observations, taken under
such favourable circumstances ; but nevertheless, they were found
considerably to differ from each other, and were accordingly regulated
as follows : —

v I If

The longitude, by means of my observations, being 53 47 53 W.

And by the means of all the officers of both ships. . 53 45 11 W.

I take for my true longitude, the means

m*sz

At the same time, No. 1024, gave longitude 53 46 52 W.

I, therefore, consider that its rate has remained unchanged, and is
therefore confirmed at + one second per day, gaining on Greenwich
mean time, in like manner —

These rates commenced on the first of June, and on the 21st of that
month, by lunar observations, no material alteration was found to have

CIV

APPENDIX.

taken place ; but, between that time and the 18th of September, no
observations which could be depended on were obtained. Between
the 1 8th and 24th of September, I had the following observations —

viA

18 September,

the

from Aldebaran, E. of her

7 00 W

21 ditto

)

from Pollux

5 30 W

21 ditto

)

ditto

6 00 W

23 ditto

)

4 55 E.

24 ditto

)

from Aldebaran

4 15 E.

The means of observations W. of the chronometer, being 6 10
And those E. of the chronometers being 4 35

The mean was found to be 5 22i

or 2l§" slow of Greenwich time.

By these observations it must appear evident, that any error arising
from the above difference, could not be perceptible on a chart, where
the degrees of longitude amount only to fifteen miles ; and therefore
the situation of the land deduced from the ship's track must be cor-
rectly laid down ; but although the means of the chronometers were
so satisfactory, their differences from each other were so considerable
that it was found necessary to give them the following new rates, viz. :

No. 815 Gaining 3 5

369 „ 2

228 „ 10

1,024 Losing 3

25 Gaining 9

Daily

»-

k^rfi*-*^

flWBffla

$mz«x^.-

APPENDIX.

On the 3d of November, the ships having returned to Brassa
Sound, allowing 2l| seconds of time, or 5| miles. The longitude
was found to be as follows :

No.

815

] 15 05

369

0 46 20

228

1 08 43

1024

0 50 58

1 20 46

1 08 52±

1 13 53

Means

Ditto, rejecting 369 which had gone irregularly for some days.

The lunar observations inserted in the foregoing abstracts, are only
for the purpose of shewing how the chronometers were regulated.
The true longitude both by lunar observation and chronometer will be
found in the engraved tables, where the latitudes, variation, and mag-
netic dip are also to be found, as well as the meteorological observations.
The latitudes and longitudes of the alphabetical list of places in
Baffin's Bay and Davis' Strait, were carefully taken from the chart
which was constructed from the most approved observations made in
both ships, by Mr. John Bushnan, who, under my inspection, drew
the said chart, which has been deposited at the Hydrographer's Office
in the Admiralty.

■T

■

4(|

M*.

i!!

■I

CV1U

APPENDIX.

a% 15. Lat. 57° N. Long. 25° W. lh 30ra P.M. Light airs N.N.W.
cloudy weather; water at the surface 47^°; air 47°; barometer
29° 3' ; hygrometer 3° 7Q' ; sea smooth. Points observed N.E. and
S.W. In the N.E. sky clear, horizon dark, and well defined. In
the S.W. the clouds near the horizon dark, the horizon light, and
not well defined.

INDEX UPPERMOST.

O / //

Sabine 2 44 55
Sabine 2 45 20
Ross 2 44 10
Sabine 2 44 45
Ross 2 44 10
Ross 2 44 25

INDEX REVERSED.

o I II

Ross 3 2 30

Sabine 3 2 12

Ross 3 1 30

Ross 3 2 45

Sabine 3 1 30

Sabine 3 2 0

Mean 2 44 37|

3 2 4|

Mean 3 2 4|

4) 17 27

4 2 if Dip observed.

4 12| Tabular Dip for 18 J feet.

Diff. + 91

■

ik% 22. Lat. 57° N. Long. 42° W. At noon ; wind N.W., a good
breeze, day cloudy; water at the surface 38|°; air 39°; barometer

it i i i ■ -

ir-rviT'j

-i

'&esb&£ >

^sas&ssst&m^^^siP^^

APPENDIX.

Cix

29° 77'; hygrometer 3° 78'. Points observed north and south, both
of them clear and well defined.

INDEX UPPERMOST.

o I II

Sabine 2 45 35
Ross 2 45 43
Sabine 2 45 30

INDEX REVERSED.
o I II

Sabine 3 2 37
Ross 3 2 44
Sabine 3 2 40

2 45 36

3 2 40|

4) 17 4i

4 16W Dip observed.

4 14 Tabular Dip 18| feet.

Diff.

May 31. Lat.63°53' N. long. 55° 03' W. At 1 P.M light winds, N.b.E.
day cloudy ; air 29° ; water 32° ; barometer 29° 62' ; hygrometer 3° 95' ;
the horizons uncertain and changing ; the sky and sea alike in colour ;
and the line of horizon, at times, scarcely perceptible.

1 r

zvfU&S*.

35T/«Pl

l? W\

APPENDIX.

N. and S. points observed by Mr. J. C. Ross.

INDEX UPPERMOST.

INDEX

REVERSED

O 1 II

/ u

2 44 05

2 30

2 43 55

2 20

2 44 0

2 10

2 44 0
2 2 20

4) 18 20

4 35 Dip observed.
4 14 Dip for I8± feet.

Diff.

3 2 20

N.N.E. and S.S.W. points observed by Captain Sabine.

INDEX UPPERMOST.

INDEX

REVERSED

O 1 II

/ n

2 43 18

2 45

2 43 12

3 35

2 43 20

3 50

3 40

43
3

16|
27§

Dip
Dip

observed,
for 18| feet.

«7J

2
14

7
0

Diff. + 48 7

-i^

APPENDIX.

June 2. Lat. 63° 41' N. long. 55° 42' W. At 8h 30m P.M., light breezes
from E.S.E. ; sea very smooth; a great quantity of ice in sight; water
at the surface 31°; air 33° ; barometer 29° 48'; hygrometer 5° 90'.

INDEX UPPERMOST.

O I II

Sabine 2 45 53
Ross 2 46 5
Ross 2 45 58

INDEX REVERSED.
O t II

Sabine 3 3 50
Ross 3 3 58

3 54

Diff.

Dip for 18| feet

II*

CX11

APPENDIX.

ill

August 29. Moderate and cloudy. Points observed N.E. and
S.W. by compass; the horizons not well defined.

By Mr. J. C. Ross only.

INDEX
0

2
2
3

INVERTED.
1 11

59 45

59 55

0 15

observed,
for 18 feet.

INDEX UPPERMOST
0 / //

2 46 50
2 46 59
2 46 41

59 58
46 50

2 46 50

13 8

3 17 Dip

4 11 Dip

Diff.

—.

mmmriw*mm*rwt-

■ ^IT^'V'.

APPENDIX.

CXlll

On the 30th of August, lat. 74° 16' N, long. 81° W. ; a pleasant
breeze from W.N.W. (true) ; horizon clear, and well denned ; one or
two icebergs in sight; water at the surface 36°; air 38°; barometer
29 . 72 ; hygrometer 8.10; 18 feet, height of the eye.

INDEX UPPERMOST.

INDEX

INVERTED

O / //

Sabine 2 48 30

Ross

2 35

Ross 2 47 50

Ross

2 18

Sabine 2 48 35

Sabine

3 25

Ross 2 47 50

Sabine

1 45

Sabine 2 47 32

Sabine
Ross

2 35

Ross 2 48 20

2 20

Sabine 2 48 10

Ross

2 40

Ross 2 48 45

Ross

2 30

2 48 11. 5

3 2 31
2 48 11.

4) 14 19.

Dip observed 3 34.
Dip for 1 8 feet 4 1 1

Difference — 35.

!!.].!■

Ii«

* . .

fitt i * J

CXV1

APPENDIX.

■

ACCOUNT of the going of the PENDULUM CLOCK, No. 2, intended for the Northern
Expedition, as compared with Mr. Browne's Clock, by dimming, April, 1818.

Date

Time

Mar. 30

April 1

3 P.M.
9 P.M.

Midnight

9 A.M.

6 P.M.

Midnight

Noon

6 P.M.

Midnight

6 A.M.

Noon

6 P.M.

Midnight

6 A.M.

Noon

6 P.M.

Midnight

6 A.M

Noon

6 P.M.

Midnight

6 A.M.

Noon

6 P.M.

Midnight

6 A.M.

Noon

With
Cummiug's

h. ' i
SI. 3 4 46,1

3 4 27,4

3 4 17,4

3 3 45,7

3 3 16,2

3 2 55,1

3 2 14,2

3 1 33,2

3 0 52,4

3 0 12,3

2 59 31,3

2 58 50,4

2 5« 9,6

2 57 29,6

2 56 48,1

2 56 7,9

2 55 26,5

Diffe-
rence
1

Kate

per diem

Daily

rate from
24 hours

+ 1

= 18,7
= 10
=31,7
= 29,5
= 21,1
=40,9

40,8

40,1

40,9

40,8

41,5

40,2

41,1

74,8

84,4

81,8

81,6

80,2

81,8

81.6

+ 82,3

81,9

80,9

81,9

80,4

82,8

80,8

81,7

Daily
rate cor-
rected

+ 82,03

81,63

Tempe-
rature

80,63

81,63

30,53

81,40

56,5

53,5

52,25

53,4

52,4

52,75

52,5

52,6

50,6

52,4

53,5

50,6

52,5

50,5

51 ,5

52,5

53,75

Arc of
vibra-
tion

Baro-
meter

1,76

1,77

1,85

1,8

1,83

1,86

1,85

1,83

1,85

1.85

1,86

1,85

REMARKS.

30,24

30,21

30,36

30,30

30,09

2.9,27

Latitude 51° 31' 8,5" N.
Longitude 0° 8' 30,6" VV.
Height above the sea 84 5 feet.

The columns of Rates 1 and 2,
shew the daily rate as deduced
from short and irregular inter-
vals of time ; 3 is the rate de-
duced from an interval of 24
hours, as compared with Gum-
ming; 4 is the rate corrected
for the rate of Cumming, and
is the exact number of seconds
which the Pendulum vibrates
more than 86,400 in 24 hours
of ineau taken time.

ifil

-rf-L

t\V]U

APPENDIX.

"J II'

ACCOUNT of the going of the PENDULUM CLOCK, No. 2, at Hare Island, Latitude
observed 70° 26' 17" North; Longitude by Chronometers 54° 51' 49" West.

Date

June 17

1.0

Time shewn by
the Clock

h ' *
1 21 0

9 54 0

11 48 35,5

3 10 0

6 40 0
11 49 54

7 50 0

11 51 22,12
6 0 0

12 0 0

11 57 7,37
1 29 0

Time by

No. 815

h ' "
17 15 28

3 41 56,1

Sun's
Transit

Rate of Clock
in the
interval

Nooru

15 41 56,9

3 42 10,12

3 42 24,87
5 17 7

Noon,

Noon

+ 166",62

+ 165 ",25

Mean . .

Rate on
24 hours'
mean time

+ 153",g

+ 152",45

Rate of
No. 815

+ 1",17

+1",95 <

+ 153", 135

+ 1",56

Arc of
vibra-
tions

Baro-
meter

1,77
1,77

1,77

1,78

i,78

1,8

1,76

1,77

1,78

30,111
30,102
30,117
30,110
30,088
33,108

REMARKS

The clock having been going
ten houre, the case was
shut.

Level examined ; found true

Au accident happened to
the Mountain Barometer,
(which was the only one
on shore,) in measuring
the height of a mountain,
and it was not repaired in
time to continue the regis-
tering ; but no alteration
took place in those on
board.

Level examined, and re-
quired a slight re-adjust-
ment.

Height above the level of
high water-mark forty
feet.

■ «!■■<!■■

~—

y^E

»TS£ 2^&ff5WS!(Rfftt^ ^#^%<i

APPENDIX.

cxix

AURORA BOREALIS.

The following observations were made by Lieutenant W. Ro-
bertson, whose attention was particularly directed to these phe-
nomena, which were not seen until late on our homeward
passage ; and it is to be regretted that the ship never, while
they were seen, was in a situation where the electrometer could
be used. The observations are, however, not uninteresting, as
they tend to establish that these phenomena are often very near
the earth, and that they appear in every direction as well as in
the north.

|p I

cxx

APPENDIX.

■I

H. M. S. Isabella, at Sea, lat. 66° 30' N. long. 59° W.

■
September 23, 1818, about ten in the evening, the Aurora Borealis
was seen in the true south horizon ; the horizon was first illuminated
like the rising or setting of the moon behind a cloud, or rather
like the illumination of the atmosphere caused by great fires ; this
extended four points of bearings; rays were soon after darted up
perpendicularly in bundles to 20° altitude; the Aurora spread to S.E.,
without darting rays, and soon after disappeared ; at midnight a very
brilliant meteor darted from the zenith to the eastern horizon like a
rocket, and was seen for 2" or 3" ; the evening was fine, with a light
breeze from the westward, which shifted in the morning to the south-
ward, blowing fresh, with hazy weather.

September 26., in lat. 65° 50' N. long. 61° W., about nine in the even-
ing, the Aurora Borealis was seen very brilliant in every point of
bearing, shooting bundles of rays of unequal length to the zenith.
This Aurora was first seen through a thick mist in the zenith ; as the
mist passed away, the Aurora increased in brilliancy, the stars
shone bright ; not a cloud to be seen. At eleven the Aurora became
less brilliant, and the sky again obscured with mist ; the horizon
continued hazy, till two next morning, when the Aurora was again
seen very brilliant in the zenith ; weather again became foggy, the
wind was light from northward, which shifted to S. by W. ; moderate
cloudy weather.

- — - - - - - - - -

■ i ■

fil

r.Tffitt i r;»

H53£fiSS^&S£932*R&9£9^^

"$5*28

APPENDIX.

cxxi

September 28. Lat. 65° N. long. 63°. At eleven p. m. observed the
Aurora very brilliant, from S. by E. to S. by W. It first appeared from
behind a cloud at the altitude of 5°, shining with a silvery light ;
shortly after darting up small bundles of rays to the altitude of 16°.
There was no appearance of the Aurora in any other part of the heavens ;
weather calm and clear at first appearance ; a breeze soon sprung up
from west, which shifted to S. W. moderate weather.

September 29. Lat. 65° N. long. 63° W. At ten in the evening the
Aurora was seen very brilliant from S. W. to S. E. true bearings,
shooting rays to the altitude of 15° ; in the morning of the 30th, the
Aurora was spread all over the heavens. Strong breezes from west-
ward with clear weather, continuing to blow fresh from that quarter
to past noon.

October 1. Lat. 62° 30' N. long. 63° W. At eight in the evening the
Aurora was seen in the true S.S.W. to S.S.E. ; at nine, the luminous
appearance spread from S.W. round by the S.E. quarter to N.E. in
an arched form, the centre of the arch 18° high, the luminous part of
arch 3° broad ; there was a very dark appearance under the arch,
through which the stars appeared with the same glimmering light that
they shone with through the luminous parts. Small bundles of sharp-
pointed rays were shot perpendicular from all parts of the arch to the
altitude of 40°. About ten the arch shifted more to the westward, and
soon disappeared, fresh breezes from W.S.W. ; true and clear star
light; at four a. m.2d. light winds S.W. continuing all day with hazy
weather.

ib.

l*Wi

I-

CXX11

APPENDIX.

October 6. Lat. 60° N. long. 56° W. Strong gales and squally, with
snow and sleet, observed the whole sky suddenly illuminated,
which lasted five or six minutes, this might be Aurora in the zenith ;

wind N.N.W. moderating towards noon.

October 8. Lat. 59° N. long. 50° W. At eight in the evening, observed
the Aurora very bright on the true east quarter, shooting beautiful
rays in bundles from the horizon to the altitude of 60° ; this was soon
obscured by squalls of snow and sleet. From nine to twelve the
Aurora was seen in every part of the heavens shooting streams of
light in every direction, the most luminous; appearing from N.
by W. to W. by N. true bearings; strong winds and squally, with
sleet, from N.W. by N. true, increasing to a hard gale on the
ninth at noon, continuing to blow hard to noon of the tenth, when
it moderated.

I !

October 17. Lat. 51° N. long. 25° W. At eight p. m. observed the
Aurora to begin in two concentric arches, the greatest arch from true
east to west, passing through the zenith, the smaller arch south of
the large one at an altitude of 45°, shooting fine rays from all
parts of the arches, but most brilliant from the western part. At half
past eight, these arches disappeared, and another most brilliant
one was seen north of the zenith, the centre passing through the
pole star, the extremities touching the eastern and western horizons,
emitting fine rays, having all the prismatic colours ; this arch was
soon broken, and the Aurora flitted about in beautiful coruscations
in the north-western part of the heavens, shifting round to the

*■

■ m ■ 4 1 m - rf ■ >^d^

— .

fil

JJZti

^r&^Jk*€^^%<5^^

APPENDIX.

southward : the moon shone unclouded at the time, and the Aurora
was sometimes seen passing her, eclipsing her in splendour. At
9b. 30m. the Aurora disappeared, the weather moderate at the
time, with some light fleecy clouds in the sky, which had a dark
appearance when passing under the Aurora. It blew hard from the
westward in the morning, and had moderated towards evening ; wind
shifted to the southward next day with moderate weather.

CXX1V

APPENDIX.

- . : .

REPORT

COMPASSES, INSTRUMENTS, #<

gge* Azimuth Compass,

Was particularly useful in determining the variation when the ship
was steady, or when azimuths could be taken on the ice or land, as
it can be read off with great accuracy; but it requires to be carefully
levelled with a spirit level. But it was also invaluable for obtaining the
points of change and amount of deviation, and was always used for
that purpose. Those on board the Isabella were both good, but the
thread of one got out of order ; the Alexander's were also equally good,
and when carefully levelled, always agreed with the Isabella's.

Walkers Azimuth Compass,

Is certainly the best for azimuths when the ship has considerable
motion ■; but its card being heavy, it ceased to traverse when the varia-
tion was 110°, and the dip. 86°.

■ *.i ■ ■ ^ ■

fil

&S3^JS5££^&3$>£A€3^ l-^SSSjEiR

..<""'■■■

APPENDIX.

cxxv

Insulated Steering Compass, supplied by Jennings.

This instrument certainly answered the purpose for which it was
intended, and completely obviated the effect of local attraction ; but its
card being heavy, and the needle short, and not very powerfully mag-
netized, it ceased to act when the variation was great.

Alexander's (of Leith) Steering Compass.

Is decidedly superior to all others, the card and needle being
well proportioned, the friction being better counteracted by the inge-
nious manner of suspension ; it is well adapted for either boat or ship,
and if fitted as an azimuth compass cannot fail to excel, particularly
when the ship has much motion ; those we had on board the Isabella
and Alexander traversed when all others had ceased to act.

Burt's Binnacle and Steering Compass.

This invention has several peculiar advantages, the facility with
which it is lighted in stormy weather, and the small space it occupies
are great advantages, the card of the compass on board the Isabella
was however too large ; and it was therefore the first which ceased to
act, but this might be easily obviated by substituting lighter cards
according to the weather.

CXXV1

APPENDIX.

Crow's Steering Compass.

This compass was powerfully magnetized, and continued to traverse
nearest to Alexander's, but its card was also too heavy where the
dip and variation are great. It is an excellent compass for other
places.

Crow's Boat Compass.

This compass answered extremely well, and is very good when the
boat has much motion, but we had very little opportunity of trying it ;
it ceased to traverse before the steering compass.

*■«.. d,m ■ ■ ^ .

—

L-i

— ki

sOm:

APPENDIX.

cxxvn

REPORTS ON VARIOUS INSTRUMENTS

SUPPLIED TO

HIS MAJESTY'S SHIPS ISABELLA AND ALEXANDER.

Transit Instruments, and Clock Pendulum.

.-..■.■ _ ■ ■ i

There was no opportunity of using these instruments after leaving

Waygatt Island.

Repeating Circle.

No use has been made of this instrument, as the time was always
easily to be found with the sextant in the usual way.

Mr. Browne's Dipping Needle.

This instrument, which was made by Nairne, was a great acquisition
to us, being the only one which could be depended on. It was tried
at Shetland, during our stay there when outward-bound, and also on
our return, and found to have continued without alteration

CXXVI11

APPENDIX.

Ml.

Lockwood's Dipping Needle.

This is an ingenious instrument, and has every motion ; but, owing to
the impossibility of knowing when the card on which it stands is on
a level with the horizon, the results of our observations on it cannot
be depended on. When the dip was above 80° it could not be kept
in the meridian ; and as it is made to read off only on one side, no
correction can be made of whatever error it may have.

Jones's Dipping Needle.

This instrument was tried and no result could be obtained from it,
owing to a mistake which had been made in marking its error ; and this
was not discovered until the last time we had an opportunity of using
it. At this time, however, the observations on it exactly agreed with
those made on Mr. Browne's, and I have no doubt but it is a good
instrument.

Tr ought oris Dipping Needle.

We never got any result from this instrument which could be de-
pended on.

Troughtoris Whirling Horizon.

This instrument could not be depended on, even in the smoothest
water; for besides its vibrations, the two reflected objects opened and

closed above a diameter of the sun

'<-

m^^m^m^^^^y^^zj^^^^^.

m£m£&2&

!4hl&L

APPENDIX.

cxxix

Baine's Patent Log.

This instrument performed extremely well, but from a defect in the
materials with which it was made, and which we were not able to
replace, we could not use it, after it was damaged, but I am of opinion
that this instrument would be of great use, particularly to surveying
vessels, as it is capable of measuring a distance with great accuracy.

Sir Humphry Davy's Water Bottle

Answered the purpose for which it was intended ; but it did not close,
so as to prevent the water from escaping or mixing with that nearer
the surface as it came up.

Kater's Altitude Instrument,

This is likely to become a valuable instrument ; — it requires practice,
and Mr. Bisson and Mr. Ross made great progress in it ; but it was
not sufficiently near the truth to be depended on for working the time ;
the general opinion was, that it was on too small a scale.

N|!1

Dip Sec tor.

This valuable instrument was used when on our passage out and
home ; but during the time we were in Baffin's Bay, its use was sus-
pended by the great inequality of refraction on the horizon.

y !

GXXX

APPENDIX.

Dip Micrometer.
This instrument was not used.

I >

Electrical Apparatus.

This apparatus being intended to be used when the ship was frozen
up, or stationary, did not come into use, there having been no oppor-
tunity fit for the purpose during the whole voyage.

Sympeisometer.

This instrument acts as a marine barometer, and is certainly not
inferior in its powers ; it has also the advantages of not being affected
by the ship's motion, and of taking up very little room in the cabin.
I am of opinion, that this instrument will supersede the marine ba-
rometer when it is better known.

The other instruments of this nature require no reports being made
on them.

Hydrometer

Was commonly used in obtaining the specific gravity of the
water.

■ <rrvir

iv*^*;

APPENDIX.

cxxxi

The Sector and Micrometer

Were used whenever it was possible, and the observations noted ;
but it was seldom the horizon could be found sufficiently clear when
amongthe ice, and afterwards the ship had too much motion.

Barnes' Log.

This machine, owing to some defect in the workmanship, soon wore
out by friction in the spiral wheel; it was afterwards repaired, but could
not be shipped until our return to Shetland, when it was again set a
going, and completely answered its purpose. -

Jennings's Log and Glass.

These instruments were very superior, and if generally used would
save expense.

Burt's Buoy and Knippers.

The invention appears to be very perfect, but owing to the water
being generally above 150 fathoms, we had little opportunity of
using it.

Lieutenant Cawley's Boat.

This boat is on an excellent plan, and had we been employed sur-
veying the coast, would have been useful in that respect, as well as
the principal one, that of saving our lives if driven to the boats. Al-

r 2

H« ,,

CXXX11

APPENDIX.

though we fortunately never had occasion to use her, it cannot be
denied, that the reflection, in many instances where the ships were
exposed to danger, that such a resource was at hand, could not fail to
produce the best effects ; and when it was necessary to stow men and
provisions for a considerable time in a small compass, this boat pos-
sessed many advantages.

JOHN ROSS, Captain.

Mr. Plenty's Cork Life Boat.

This meritorious invention was in like manner of great service, for it
evidently possessed the quality of sustaining the shock of striking on
a rock or ice without being in any way damaged; and, therefore, in case
of shipwreck would have easily saved the lives of the crew.

■

!
-

■
■

■*

msfrMtteJiz^cg*

DEEP SEA CLAMMS,

INVENTED BY CAPTAIN J. ROSS, R.N.

This instrument was invented by me, on board His Majesty's ship
Isabella, in the early part of our voyage to the Arctic Regions ; many
fruitless attempts had been made to procure substances from the
bottom of the sea in deep water, by the instruments with which we
were supplied ; and I had an opportunity of observing the reasons of
this failure, which led to the discovery of that which I am about to de-
scribe ; and which, in almost every instance, completely succeeded in
accomplishing that desirable object, of bringing up substances of any
description, in considerable quantity, from any depth ; but it has also
been found to preserve the temperature of these substances, if they
are soft, until it can be measured by the thermometer ; and by these
means the temperature of the earth can be nearly ascertained at any
fathomable depth. In Melville Bay, on the 1st of August, it brought up,
from four hundred and twenty fathoms, some soft mud, into which the
thermometer was immediately immersed, and it gave 29|° ; at the same
time the self-registering thermometer, at the depth of two hundred
and ten fathoms, gave the same temperature. In Prince Regent's Bay, in
four hundred and fifty-five fathoms, it gave the same temperature. In the

'.*.

til

CXXX1V

APPENDIX.

entrance of Lancaster Sound, at the depth of six hundred and
seventy-four fathoms, the temperature of the mud was also found to
be 29^° ; and, at the highest part of that inlet in which we sounded,
the mud was found to be, in six hundred and fifty fathoms, 29°.

On the 6th of September, in latitude 72° 23' N. and longitude 73° 071'
west, we sounded in one thousand and fifty fathoms, from which depth
the instrument brought up six pounds of very soft mud ; the next day
being quite calm, we tried the temperature of the sea at five,
six, seven, eight hundred, and a thousand fathoms; and found its
temperature decrease from thirty-five gradually to the same tempera-
ture as the instrument gave it, which was twenty-eight three-quarters ;
although the instrument may not bring up the mud at the exact tem-
perature of that at the bottom, it may be supposed that it cannot
have suffered much alteration from its agreeing so nearly with the
self-registering thermometer, and that, if it has altered, it must be to
increase the degree of temperature ; hence it may always be inferred,
that the mud at the bottom is not of a higher temperature than that
brought up by the instrument. The reasons for so little alteration taking
place, is the closeness with which the instrument confines the mud,
which is such as not to allow even the water to escape. If the instru-
ment strikes among stones, which are small enough to get between
the forceps, it will bring up as many as are enclosed in them ; in one
instance it brought up a stone which weighed two pounds and a half,
from three hundred fathoms ; and in another, it struck a rock and cut
a piece out, which it brought up from two hundred and sixteen
fathoms. The instrument was made from the model by the ship's
armourer, and succeeded on the first trial. ..;

<m *

*ta

-" '-'*■'

J^^^g^^^^^^^^^^^^^^s^^^o

&tt:

APPENDIX.

cxxxv

To use the deep sea clamms, it is necessary to be provided with whale
lines, such as are used by the Greenland and South Sea ships, which
are two and a half inches in circumference, made of the best hemp,
and very pliable and easily coiled ; the lines ought to be spliced toge-
ther, and faked or coiled so as to run quite clear on the fore part of the
ship's decks. In very deep water, it is necessary that it should be calm
or nearly so, to be certain that soundings are obtained in 500 fathoms ;
but, in a light breeze, the instrument may be hung to a boat and towed
in the direction of the ship's drift, and if there is any wind it is best to
lower all the sails down. An out-rigger, fitted with a block, should be
fixed on the weather-quarter, through which the line ought to be rove
and bent to the instrument, when it ought to be lowered until it is a
fathom below the surface, and then let go ; the instruments and lines
may, however, be made for different depths, and used accordingly ; for
the North Sea, I would recommend one of fifty pounds. The following
are the dimensions and description of the first that was made : —

Description of a Machine for taking up Soundings from the
Bottom of any Fathomable Depth; invented by Captain John Ross,
His Majesty's Ship Isabella, and called by him, A DEEP
SEA CLAMM

AB. A hollow parallelogram of cast iron (1 cwt), eighteen inches
long, six by six, and three-quarter inches in the outside square, and
in the inside four by five inches wide.

C. Is a view of the top, and a strap of iron across it, through which
the spindle passes, and two inches below another strap of the same
kind is placed.

CXXXV1

APPENDIX.

D. Diagonal view of the forceps which are attached by a joint to
the spindle, and which are kept extended by the joint bolt, No. 2.

The cast-iron weight is, by the forceps being thus extended, kept up
until the bolt touches the ground ; the joint bolts No. 2, are then de-
tached by No. 3, and the cast-iron weight slips down the spindle to
which the rope is fixed, and shuts the forceps, which are by this time
on the ground, by the power of the inclined plane enclosing and keep-
ing fast the contents until taken out.

JOHN ROSS, Captain,
H. M. S. Isabella.

—

l-Bi

* I

BJtf

EXPLANATI ON .

These Diagrams exhibit the Ramjet of the Marine Barometer, & Sympiezameter and the Temperature of

the Air, and Water at the Sur/ace, by Farenlieights Thermometer, On board RMS. Isabella during the Voyage
ofDisdwery to the Arctic Regions performed in the months of May, Jane, July, August .September, ami

October. The uppermost dotted line....,..*-, representing the Barometer, the Z*——_the Sympiezameter, the tf

the temperature of tfie Air the- J*-~- -___ the temperature of tlie Water at the Surface of the Sea

Below Se inserted the State of the Atmosphere by Slater's Hygrometer. Also the latitude & long etude
at Noon, Winds and Variation, ami when me temperature of the Water ,(■ Soundings are taken, tliev are
inserted in the Column of the Day 77/e ndtole of tin; Meteorological Observations aie earet'uUy abstracted
from tk% Meteorological log. The Latitudes and longitudes are the Observations by different Officers and their
means generally taken. 77/e lunation is corrected for Betdation, Tlie Table slicing the Magnetic Dig and Intensity
of the Magnetic Force, n as furnished bv MJ James Rojs. who with Captain Sabine, was employed particularly to
make those Observations.

■

■ i. ; i
I Mi

I
■

; :
il

OBSERVATIONS ON THE DIP AND

Month.

April
June

July

. iu</ust

September
November

I
Date. Latitude.

30*:

9
19

V
23

4
19

20
25
II
3

North.
Brafsa in

longitude.

West.

S lied and

68 . 22 .15 53 . 49 . 55

70 . 26 . 17 , 64 . 51 ., 49

74 .04 .00 ! 57 .52 .CO

75 .05 . 00 60 . 30 . 00

75 , 51 . 30 \ 63 . 60 ., 00

75 , 59 . 00

64 , 47 , 00

16 . 32 .00 : 73 .. 45 , 00

76 . 45 . 30 76 , 00 „ 00

76 . 00 . 20 I 78 . 20 . 50

70 . 35 .30 66 .55 . 0.

Brafsa in Shetland.

Dip.

North.

74 . 22 . 48

S3 . 08 . 07
81 . 48 . 47
34 . 01) , 13
84 . 25 . 06
84.44 .33

84 . 52 . 06

83 . 44- . 38
86 .OS .33

85 . 59 . IS

84 . 39 . 21
74 . 21 . 50

N?of
Obser
vations

n
n

10
10

JO
10

12
16

[TENSITY of the MAGNETIC FOMC1

IntheMag.MeiA N?of

100 Vibrations in 0b,?er
vations

7.50 . 15
7 .20 . _
7.23 . _

Right alleles to th
MagMerdlOOViK in

7 .27 . 25
7 ■. 27 . 25

7 . 15
7 . IS

7 . 16

in. s

8 .01 . 25

7 . 33 . _
7 .26 . _

7 . 26 . _
7.24 . 50

7 .16 . .
7.48 . .
7.18. 03

N?of
Obser-
vations

REMARKS.

{On Lf in Davis Straits
\7East Coast Distant 5 miles

\l\aygate Islands at die
I Observatory.

( On tlu 3 Islands of
(Batrin.

On Ice tJieland distllC miles
D° . D° 8 miles.

D°.

.!>' 8 miles.

On Ice Caret's Islands,
bearing XXK 15 mites

-{■

j [On lee tape Clare/ice
\bearing West 7 leagues

In Tec Land 7 mites IHstf

D." band 12 mites Dutf

Published, at tlieAcI direct* ?;"'J7<-b',3,9 by JbtmJfurmy 'Albemarle Street ZonOon

■aSSWSS«^jB«*«>fcSS»i(3B!S»8KES«^^

ttTEOBM.OGU'ALMO.mK.or II, S Umrtk Shm- IWAWmfcA. on a VOYAGE of DI SCOVBBY. u,1,c-AurT,rKK,:i»>s.,«,H

Jr-'

jll

- * ■

■ ii i ii

> i

i* ■ ■

■*- --'K > •w=re J

^SSWE8rS!S®i8SBS»«»5®a^BSS®ES»3^^

„W ,utt«-.t,f ./,™-., ,j't,/.- „'/,,,/. t.,f,n V.,„»r ,IH*,n.trtr Stt*** t..

Jl'tt

**&sEZ&S^J&S>$&kS&&gqBt8GJBmams&isa

tJiTiff-\r^Z

METEOKOLOGU'AI., KEGISTEB. oi' iiiS MAJKSTVfi SHUT I 8ABELLA, Oil a VOYAGE of D J SCOVEBY. in lh«- A.KOT IC REG IOWS. 1818 .

■ -"/; /. ■ ..;;., /., ./,.//

•v:

T I

»»

„tr|j

<} ■

- 6*

■

^ i r

— .

is3EK23£3E^M»^#«£®^

Bfii

>-1

j III;
111

"ii

i :i

i\\

I*.

mmmm

I .

" -^

^H^^^^^^^H

■■■^^^H

VIEWS of LA+VD in DAV

*mm

C.iyr <;,„/,.„„ ,ir„o,r ,„ Lntiludr ;S,S.,JV Z„/;,«/w, 7&:iB IT t<*nn9 rr„. in.r 7 ItaavM

\\\'

Cape W„U,n,ha„, ,„ Lnhfi.A- tX'jj Jf Lo„j,t,.J, do' So W *„„:„., frw W4J I

ma;

"*fr'"™. {'W'WH'/,; "'. ;;, 1 ;.".i|

!'^ ^ ^fa^jaMtf IRll

i W Pill I

./;///./r-/\r„/v TVwar w Zmittut* <•/ £i .1

VuMtshni Of the, let .ttrr.ls to

£7g®sr3CTis««^83Bns®sBSRs®e^^ yiZs£*

1 9 S TK A I T amd KAFFIRS B AY

t:i!fffBjiiiioiifft.,j ' '\mm«m«iiim

Coutt.t Inlet in Xaftfuitr 73*0 JP! Lontjttuite 7/

^i '"^

Mount Raleigh fx-artng true H'e.rt n/witt jj fed one*

^1 \ f.i.n./ttifte t>J

• Ifte ,Ci>uthw,ii\i ./'if

rf ttitwctt iii'FrhS t&y |Tj T fill Mill IMp llllfc— ft flillllflffmfta

SHUBHH

g|Pll(ii|I^

11 ;. ■;; , -

■ twin/id Srr,e fW /.• m '

»L

««

nil

«H

« -> j ■ tmj r i

■

—

^ivi-^k^s

LIST OF PLANTS,

COLLECTED ON THE COASTS OF BAFFIN'S BAY.

From Lat. 70° 30' to 76° 12', on the East Side;

AT POSSESSION BAY, in Lat. 73°, on the West Side,

The List is formed chiefly from Capt. Ross's collection; a considerable number of add.tional
species to which (S.) is annexed, were collected by Capt. Edward Sabine; and a few marked
(F.) were received from Mr. Fisher, the Surgeon of the Alexander

Triandria.
Eriophorum polystachion, Linn.
Alopecurus alpinus, Smith, Flor. Brit. iii. p. 1386.
Agrostis algida, Phippss Voy. p. 200. Wahknb. Lapp. p. 25. t. i. (S.)
Gramen sui generis.
Agrostis paradoxa, nov. sp. Vix hujus, forsan proprii generis.
Poa laxa, Willden. Sp. PL i. p. 386.

Hexandria.
Rumex digynus, L. Distinctum genus (Donia nob.) efformat.

Decandria.
Andromeda letragona, L.
Pyrola rotundifolia, L.? Absque floribus hand determinanda.

e^^W^BWawaw^aiwwa^^^-.

tummm

cxlii

APPENDIX.

Saxifraga oppositifolia, L.

propinqua, nov. sp. S. Hirculo cui proxima minor et

diversa praesertim calycibus nudis et petalis inappendiculatis.

— flagellaris, Sternberg Saxifr. p. 25. t. 6. S. setigera,

Pursh. Amer. i. p. 312. (F.)

tricuspidata, Willden. Sp. PL ii. p. 657. (S.)

■ caespitosa, L. Notis nonnullis differt, forsan distincta,

petiolaris, nov. sp. proxima S. rivulari. (S.)

cernua, L.

Silene acaulis, L.
Lychnis apetala, L.

triflora, nov. sp. (S.)

Cerastium alpinum, L.

ICOSANDRIA.

Potentilla pulchella, nov. sp. P. sericese affinis. (S.)

groenlandica, nov. sp.? nimis affinis P. frigidae et Brau-

nian33. (S.)

Dryas integrifolia, Vahl in Flor. Dan. 1216.

POLYANDRIA.

Papaver nudicaule, L.

Ranunculus , sulphureus forte vel glacialis; e fragmentis non

determinanda. (F.)

Didynamia.

Pedicularis hirsuta, L.

* fc « ..T

^^^^^^mm^^^^j^^f^-f^^^^^^^^m-

APPENDIX.

cxliii

Tetradynamia.

Draba muricella, Wahtenb. Lapp. p. 174. t. xi. f. 2.1 (S.)

oblongata, nov. sp. (S.)

corymbosa, nov. sp.? praecedenti valde affinis et ambse D.

rupestri (Hort. Kew. iv. p. 91.) proximo. (S.)

Cochlearia fenestrate nov. sp. A. C. anglica et danica, quibus valde
propinqua, differt valvulis subaveniis et dissepimenti elliptico-lanceolati
axi dehiscente.

Syngenesia.
Leontodon Taraxacum, L.f varietas nana? vix species distincta.

Moncecia.
Carex compacta, nov. sp. C. pulla? affinis. (F.)

DlCECIA.

Empetrum nigrum, L.

Salix arctica, nov. sp.

*-^" specimen mancum dubia? species, precedent! proximge.

POLYGAMIA.

Hierochloe alpina, Br. Holcus alpinus, Wahknb. Lapp. p. 51. (S.)

Cryptogamia.
Lycopodium Selago, L. (S.)

Polytrichumjuniperinum, Hooker and Taylor, Muse. Brit. p. 25.
Orthotrichum cupulatum, Muse. Brit. p. 72.?
Trichostomum lanuginosum, Muse. Brit. p. 60.

■gfMgw^wBwgg^^^

—^

cxliv

APPENDIX.

. i j

■

,::

Dicranum scoparium, Muse. Brit. p. 57.

Mnium turgidum, fVahlenb. Lapp. p. 351.

Bryum ,, absque capsulis.

Hypnum aduncum, Z.

Jungermannia , fructificatione nulla.

Gyrophora hirsuta, Achar. Syn. p. 69. (S.)

. erosa, Achar, Syn. p. 65. (S.)

Cetraria islandica, Achar. Syn. p. 229.

nivalis, Achar. Syn. p. 228.

Cenomyce rangiferina, Achar. Syn. p. 277.

fimbriata, Achar. Syn. p. 254.?

Dufurea? rugosa, nov. sp.

Cornicularia bicolor, Achar. Syn. p. 301.

Usnea? , nov. sp.? absque scutellis.

Ulva crispa. Light/. Scot. 972.?

Algarum genus?? Confervis simplicissimis et Tremellse cruent* (Eng.
Bot. 1800) quodammodo affine?? Minute globules, the colouring matter
of the Red Snow, of which extensive patches were seen in Lat. 76° 25'
N., and Long. 65° W.

THE END.

PRINTED BV W. CLOWES, NORTHCMBEBLAND-COURT, STRAO

Internet Archive Audio

Featured

Top

Images

Featured

Top

Software

Featured

Top

Texts

Featured

Top

Video

Featured

Top

Mobile Apps

Browser Extensions

Archive-It Subscription

Save Page Now

Full text of "A voyage of discovery : made under the orders of the Admiralty, in His Majesty's ships Isabella and Alexander, for the purpose of exploring Baffin's Bay, and inquiring into the probability of a North-West Passage."

See other formats